Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

The northern part of the Park, including Mt Stapylton is currently closed to all access following the January 2014 fires. Check the Access Issues for each area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

National Park

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
19 Knockout Trad 30m

"Obvious" jam-crack in descent gully.

2
6 September '55 Trad 99m

Start at large tree 3 metres left of descent gully.

3
14 Triapathy Trad 64m

Initialled line 24m left of descent gully.

4
13 Squaw Trad 90m

Corner 4m left of 'Triapathy', just right of huge ceiling.

5
21 * Flaming Arrow Trad 100m

left-facing corner 55m left of 'Squaw'

6
19 ** The Head Shrinker Trad 84m

Left-leaning corner 30m left of 'Flaming Arrow'.

7
18 M1 The Guinea Pig Aid 87m

Initialled, 35m left of 'The Head Shrinker'

8

Initial N, 2m left of 'The Guinea Pig'

9
17 Justine Trad 99m

Start 19m left of 'The Guinea Pig'

10
10 M4 Pipe of Peace Aid 130m

Start 13m left of 'Justine'

12
16 The Warpath Trad 92m

Start 16m left of 'Pipe of Peace'. Initialled.

13
17 ** Sojourn Trad 96m

Initialled, juggy corner 26m left of 'The Warpath'

14
12 Circus Trad 74m

Line 16m left of 'Sojourn'. Initialled.

15
8 Balthazar Trad 95m

Initialled corner 10m left of 'Circus'

16
13 Clea Trad 84m

Start at block 60m left of 'Balthazar'

17
9 Grasshopper Trad 81m

Start 20m left of 'Clea'. Initialled.

18
16 ** Opium Trad 88m

Good fun.

Start: 8m left of 'Grasshopper'. Initialled.

  1. 25m (16) Up wall, tending right along ramp for a few metres, then back left into shallow corner. 'Layback' this to belay on good ledge with tree.

  2. 25m (16) Up and right along corner/seam to base of big corner. Directly up for about 8m, then right onto face and belay at (new) rap station. 60m rap to ground.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Peter Jacob, 1971

19
10 Scavenger Trad 81m

Juggy line 5m left of 'Opium'

20
10 Little Black Cloud Trad 83m

Start 6m left of 'Scavenger'. Initialled.

21
12 The Rose Trad 66m

Start 3m left of 'Little Black Cloud'. Initialled.

22
12 Tunc Trad 85m

Start at scrubby corner-ramp 26m left of 'The Rose'. Initialled.

23
8 Papoose Trad 56m

Start 24m left of 'Tunc'. Initialled.

24
15 Blazing Ferrets Trad 53m

Start 35m left of 'Papoose' at little corner below a major corner high on the cliff.

25
7 Little Horn Trad 55m

Probably the vegetated gully system right of 'Trilogy'

26
13 Trilogy Trad 40m

Start at corner-crack 25m left of 'Blazing Ferrets' and 35m right of promontory below left end of cliff. Initialled.

27
10 Holy Mackerel Trad 62m

Corner just down and left from distinctive promontory at foot of far end of cliff

28

Groove on buttress between Central and Southern cliffs