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Routes as trad in Middle Cliff

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Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 Knockout

"Obvious" jam-crack in descent gully.

Trad 30m
6 September '55

Start at large tree 3 metres left of descent gully.

Trad 99m
14 Triapathy

Initialled line 24m left of descent gully.

Trad 64m
13 Squaw

Corner 4m left of 'Triapathy', just right of huge ceiling.

Trad 90m
21 Flaming Arrow

left-facing corner 55m left of 'Squaw'

Trad 100m
19 The Head Shrinker

Left-leaning corner 30m left of 'Flaming Arrow'.

Trad 84m
16 The Guinea Pig Variant Start

Initial N, 2m left of 'The Guinea Pig'

Trad 32m
17 Justine

Start 19m left of 'The Guinea Pig'

Trad 99m
13 Pipe of Peace Direct Finish
Trad 36m
18 The Warpath

Start 16m left of 'Pipe of Peace'. Initialled

  1. 12m 13. Corner system to ledge.

  2. 18m 18. Steeply up corner to hard moves around overlap. Up very sustained V groove to top. Committing swing L to gain ledge. [This pitch originally escaped L half way up]

  3. 22m 15. Up and L into corner. Climb this and short chimney to terrace.

  4. 40m 8. Up more easily.

FA: Geoff Gledhill Alan Gledhill, 1969

Trad 92m
18 Sojourn

Initialled, juggy corner 26m left of 'The Warpath' Sustained and committing.

  1. 17m 12. Juggy corner to 6m below roof.

  2. 33m 18. Corner to roof, exciting moves L to stance, then boldly head diagonally L to orange corner. Up corner around small overhang to belay below next overhang.

  3. 33m 17. Hard moves around roof and on up to second ledge.

  4. 13m 10. Line veering slightly R.

FA: Peter Canning, Roland Pauligk & var, 1971

Trad 96m
12 Circus

Line 16m left of 'Sojourn'. Initialled.

Trad 74m
8 Balthazar

Initialled corner 10m left of 'Circus'

Trad 95m
13 Clea

Start at block 60m left of 'Balthazar'

Trad 84m
9 Grasshopper

Start 20m left of 'Clea'. Initialled.

Trad 81m
16 Opium

Good fun.

Start: 8m left of 'Grasshopper'. Initialled.

  1. 25m (16) Up wall, tending right along ramp for a few metres, then back left into shallow corner. 'Layback' this to belay on good ledge with tree.

  2. 25m (16) Up and right along corner/seam to base of big corner. Directly up for about 8m, then right onto face and belay at (new) rap station. 60m rap to ground.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Peter Jacob, 1971

Trad 88m, 2
10 Scavenger

Juggy line 5m left of 'Opium'

Trad 81m
10 Little Black Cloud

Start 6m left of 'Scavenger'. Initialled.

Trad 83m
12 The Rose

Start 3m left of 'Little Black Cloud'. Initialled.

Trad 66m
12 Tunc

Start at scrubby corner-ramp 26m left of 'The Rose'. Initialled.

Trad 85m
8 Papoose

Start 24m left of 'Tunc'. Initialled.

Trad 56m
15 Blazing Ferrets

Start 35m left of 'Papoose' at little corner below a major corner high on the cliff.

Trad 53m
7 Little Horn

Probably the vegetated gully system right of 'Trilogy'

Trad 55m
13 Trilogy

Start at corner-crack 25m left of 'Blazing Ferrets' and 35m right of promontory below left end of cliff. Initialled.

Trad 40m
10 Holy Mackerel

Corner just down and left from distinctive promontory at foot of far end of cliff

Trad 62m
10 Custer's Last Stand

Groove on buttress between Central and Southern cliffs

Trad 60m

Showing all 26 routes.

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