Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs | |||||
3 | Automatic Runaway
The descent ropute. Easy corner nearest the carpark. Colin Mibus used this route for ascent/descent eons ago with his .22 to frighten bunnies. FA: Colin Mibus, 2000 | 6m | |||
15 | ★★ Lamington
Climb up left edge of smooth grey wall on the west side (approximately 4m from north arête) through left end of overhangs to finish via right hand of two cracks. FA: Ben Wright & Nicky Eustace, 2003 | 10m | |||
18 | Vanilla Slice
Start in middle of west side and climb up slab and through weakness of main overhang (using hold up right) and finish through projecting shelf at top. FA: Ben Wright & Nicky Eustace, 2003 | 12m | |||
12 | ★★★ Ghoulies
6m right of Automatic Runway. Through the overhang and up the corner. Marke dby high white square. FA: Ian Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1985 | 10m | |||
13 | ★ Rock Cookie
Start at 'Ghoulies' on the west side (1.5m left from the south arête) but move to the right through the middle and top bulges. FA: Jack Lewis & Ben Wright, 2003 | 12m | |||
17 | ★★ Nuts, Slings and Prayers
Easy start of the climb to smoothish round overhang, climb directly up, placing climb just left of Casper. Placements are scarce til high so the risk of a deck fall is high temporarily. Was originally done with only nuts and slings, hence the name. The last few metres are made a lot less risky with cams, but it's also an easy top out. NA: Steele FA: Tarik Vann, 3 Dec 2022 | 12m | |||
19 | Mince Pie
The hardest route here. Climb up just right of south arête to thin crack. FA: Ben Wright, 2003 | 12m | |||
9 | ★ Casper
Summerday-style classic. Six metres right of 'Ghoulies'. Juggy line with the left kink at the end. FA: Ian Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1989 | 10m | |||
10 | ★ Piece of Cake
Crack on wall on east side approximately 4m left of north arête. FA: Nicky Eustace & Richard Eustace, 2003 | 7m | |||
14 | "" AKA On the road again
Don't know the original name. Start left of the cave and climb over it to the right. Get into the overhanging bit and get through it using jugs on the left. Topping out is a bit tricky. | 10m | |||
14 | Turkey Sandwich
Getting full value from limited resources! Circumnavigate the outcrop starting up Automatic Runway and following the break at mid-height going anticlockwise to the south arête (belay possible here) and continuing around to the start. Going clockwise looks feasible too and may be better. FA: Ben Wright (solo), 2003 | 25m | |||
Unknown
Route with single FH right of Spirits in the Sky. | |||||
6 | Pool Climb
| 10m | |||
8 | Windy
| 35m | |||
8 | Spirits In The Sky
North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square. FA: Ian Welsby, Jane Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1985 | 18m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Warden Wall | |||||
13 | ★★ Diesel Soot
Easy line just left of Crimps of Doom, starts under flake feature a few metres left of arete. Straight up to prominent flake then up on jugs, finishing at highest point on wall. Good pro. FA: Toby O & Luke Batchelor, 31 Jan 2021 | 10m | |||
17 | ★★ Crimps of Doom
Face around corner 2m left of 'Rohans Route', a few balancy crimp moves gets you to the top. FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003 | 10m | |||
17 | ★ Rohans Route
A hard and bold mantle at the start reaches jugs (crux) and easy hauling to top. FA: Rohan Archibald | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Gormet
Nice climbing up an attractive line. Follow orange corner to top. FA: Hanh Le, 2003 | 10m | |||
18 | My Bitch Bubba
Same start as for 'Gormet', only stepping onto thin face after reaching first block, then following the break on left-hand side of face. FA: Tuan Le, 2003 | 10m | |||
8 | Photographers Solo
Best access to top as well as an easy down climb. | 10m | |||
14 | Jump Gimli!
Located on wall right of main 'Warden Wall'. Climb straight up from slight scoop in the wall 2m from right-hand end. Short climbers will need to use dynamic technique. FA: Jack Lewis, Simon Punt & Cameron Barrett, 2003 | 7m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentry Wall | |||||
15 | Topple Tor
Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête. FA: Bedford FA: Lyons & Gordon FA: Gary, 2005 | 15m | |||
9 | The First Post
Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top. FA: Gordon Bedford & Gary Lyons, 2005 | 12m | |||
16 | Aware
Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top. FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005 | 12m | |||
15 | Cold At Dawn
Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack. FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005 | 12m | |||
12 | Sentry Line
On the eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from 'Aware'. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow, left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang. FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005 | 15m | |||
5 | Sentry Arête
The right hand rib of the chimney. FA: Gordon Bedford & Gary Lyons, 2005 | 12m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentinel Cave | |||||
23 | ★ Far Lap
A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on 'Media Puzzle' across to the first bolt in the roof on 'Antics'. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with ground fall potential very likely. FA: Gareth Llewelin, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2005 | 25m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentinel Wall | |||||
18 | Sunsation
A contrived left varient of 'Fot as Huck'. Start slightly left of 'Fot as Huck'. Up to thread then stick left as you climb the jugs out to the left avoiding the bolted line. Watch for explodo jugs. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw & Andrew Morrison, 2003 | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ Tatiana
Start 2m right of central crack on buttress slightly downhill and right from 'Sunraysia'. Up through thin start to pockets and past technical finish to tree belay. FA: Michael Schedlberger, Phil Neville & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003 | 12m | |||
15 | Know Your Signals
Start 4m right of dirty roof hand crack and right of 'Tatiana'. Follow weakness through thin start to under roof. Watch for loose rock. Traverse left 2m and finish at tree belay. FA: Phil Neville, Michael Schedlberger & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003 | 14m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground I Forget Walls | |||||
19 | ★ The Forgotten Child
Curved seam with orange streak. Suspect hold near 3rd hanger, take nuts to add safety. Finish at lower off. 3 FH's FA: adam demmert & Joe Goding, 2008 | 13m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Tears in Rain
Nice finger jamming with good pro. Follow the small crack left of the bolted route. Rap off TFG anchor. FFA: Joe Goding & Adam Demmert, 2008 | 13m | |||
13 | Lucken Fichen
Scramble to the top of the big boulder to access the left of the two big cracks. Climb up to the good belay ledge on the right. Descend via TFG lower offs, may need to stay roped up to access them. FA: Jonathan Cawood & Poppy, 27 Sep 2017 | 15m | |||
21 | Nephila
Takes the line where the orange and grey faces meet. Begin at a small finger crack below the convenient big thread. At the roof head left over or around the bulge to the top. FA: Poppy & Jonathan Cawood, 27 Sep 2017 | 35m | |||
17 | What's your name again
Sandy grey face on the right side of the arête next to JJ. 1. Head straight up over multiple horizontal breaks till sloping ledge. 2. Either go straight up again through horrible death flakes or bail out right through easier (safer) terrain. FFA: Poppy & zac beerens, 1 Aug 2018 | 40m, 2 | |||
14 | Jetty Jog
Long sandy run out. Starts at the far left of the cliff line about 20m right of giant mushroom rock. Takes a finger seam left of a corner up to a long section of easy slab. Finish straight up to the top coming through scary suspect flake territory. FFA: Poppy & Zac Beerens, 1 Aug 2018 | 40m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Doddery Rock | |||||
3 | Getting Away From the Olds
. On the the North wall (the first wall you reach). FA: Trevor Wall (solo), 2007 | 6m | |||
17 | No Respite
Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007 | 8m | |||
8 | Nose Hairs
Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles, 2006 | 8m | |||
7 | Ulcerations
Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007 | 6m | |||
16 | Staying Grey
Start 1.5m left of 'To Be Young'. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear. FA: Trevor Wall, Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless & Meily Effendy, 2007 | 7m | |||
10 | Walking Frame Direct
Hanging start to gain crack and up. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006 | 8m | |||
7 | Walking Frame
Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007 | 10m | |||
7 | Granpa's Y-Fronts
2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007 | 8m | |||
7 | Pension Days
Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron barrett, 2007 | 8m | |||
12 | Saggy Jugs
Start left around corner from boulder, working right up to large jug on corner. Then straight up to the top on thinning holds. Pro is thin. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007 | 8m | |||
Trevs Project
| 8m | ||||
Leigh Project
| 8m | ||||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Mt Pleasant | |||||
6 | ★ Abbren
Obvious crack line at E./ left end of cliff. Left of scrubby descent gully FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007 | 8m | |||
5 | Free Hangin
Crack/ corner right of scrubby descent gully, left of FH's. Start 1m. left of 2FH's. Bridge between crack & sidewall, exit through V brake at top of crack. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2006 | 12m | |||
16 | ★ Kymba
1m. right of Free Hanging. Take shallow cracks right of FH's to pocket, move to orange rock and straight up, finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007 | 12m, 2 | |||
5 | Sheila G
3m. right of K. the arête. use boulder to gain arête, move up this to jugs and over top. belay from top of K. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007 | 12m | |||
6 | Alpine Experience
Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle. First shallow corner right of S.G., Pull up into knobbly corner & work your way up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge & continue up bridging corner, some holds brittle. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007 | 12m | |||
12 | Hunter Valley
Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete. About 2m. left of FH. Obvious corner line with over hang. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner, then the line up the arête. FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001 | 12m | |||
18 | ★ Mumjoy
In memory of my Mother who passed late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Start as for H.V., traverse right into crack past bolt plate. Follow crack line into roof, move left under roof following crack to top FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless & Chris Tamavic, 2006 | 12m | |||
14 | OP&OH
The corner starting at the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001 | 12m | |||
14 | Whinery Tour
Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner. FA: Stu Dobbie, Jim Kane & Jack Lewis, 2005 | 20m | |||
17 | Rosehill
Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming. FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001 | 10m | |||
Project
Single FH with red tag. FA: Cameron ect?, 2000 | 8m | ||||
5 | Philip
The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'. FA: Jeremy Maddox, 2001 | 10m | |||
15 | Battle of the Bulge
The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006. FA: Trevor Wall, Meily Effendy, Leigh Colless & Chris Tamavic, 2007 | 12m | |||
16 | Elizabeth
The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+). FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001 | 10m | |||
16 | Semillon
Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing. FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001 | 12m | |||
14 | Lovedale
The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of 'Semillon'. FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001 | 10m | |||
14 | Homebrew
Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of 'Lovedale'. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06. FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello & William Swinson, 2005 | 9m | |||
17 | If You’re Short, We Can Help
Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break. FA: Ben Wright & Peter Kello, 2005 | 8m | |||
16 | Leigh's Right
Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007 | 6m | |||
North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Mount of Olives Shangri-La | |||||
19 | ★ As The Worm Turns
The big trench that cuts across the wall- uses many weird techniques, doesn't need any gear bigger than a number 3 Camalot Finishes at the anchors for Deborah Triangle around the corner. FA: Adam Demmert, 2008 FFA: adam demmert, 2008 | 25m, 7 | |||
North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Mount of Olives | |||||
20 | Olive of My Eye
A good line done in cold, wet conditions. Find the major diagonal line in the gully on the north face of the outcrop. Traverse right across gentle slab to major corner. Up corner to top of block. Left below overhang then corner to next overhang. Go left to arete and up airily. FA: Greg Aimer & Chris Baxter, 1996 | 40m | |||
10 | The Blitz
More intimidating than the grade suggests. Start as for 'Olive of My Eye'.
FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter (alt) & Kieran Loughran, 1996 | 60m, 2 | |||
19 | Desperate Measures
Good old-fashioned stuff, negotiating a series of substantial overhangs. Take some extra-large gear.
FA: Chris Baxter & Greg Aimer (alt), 1996 | 90m, 2 | |||
19 | The Third Man
Take cams to #4.
FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns (alt), 1997 | 110m, 3 | |||
13 | A Message to Garcia
| 140m | |||
9 | The Sermon
| 100m | |||
20 | The Narrow Door
This atmospheric climb finishes up a landmark notch in the summit ceilings R of exit gully of The 'Sermon'. At the foot of the west face, right of The 'Sermon' is a long ceiling. The base of the cliff then drops down right to where there is another long ceiling. Between these two ceilings is a short, broken, L-facing corner. Start here (where are topos when you need them?) 1. 45m Up and right then straight up to grassy terrace. Up this (up a terrace?) to foot of wall above two blocks on grass. 2. 40m 'Small', right-facing corner crack. Step up left and climb up and left on mossy face, then straight up to ledge. Short walls lead to narrow ledge below huge overhanging wall. Move left on ledge to guano-stained corner. 3. 20m (crux) Take seam, moving right and up under ceilings to exposed stance in notch. 4. 30m The line above. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns (alt), 1997 | 140m | |||
18 | The Electric Chair
The only line at anything like the grade through bands of overhangs right of 'The Narrow Door'. Exposed. Start at foot of R side of main (W) face, right of ND. 1. 50m Ramp then broken ground to ledge 4m below small but prominent guano-stained cave (landmark). 2. 30m Step up L on to lip of overhang, then traverse up and left above ceiling until you can go steeply up to diagonal break leading L to ledge almost at L arete. 3. 40m (crux) "The only way out" appears to be the seam above, which leads to steep flake-crack then easy ground. FA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns (alt), 1998 | 120m | |||
18 | Queensberry Rules
| 130m | |||
19 | Air Apparent
| 87m | |||
North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Martini Rock | |||||
17 | A Kind Word And A Gun
| 60m | |||
16 | Intifada
| 70m | |||
North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Worship Wall | |||||
17 | Simon Says
| 35m | |||
18 | Great Scott
| 40m | |||
North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Point 447 | |||||
19 | Lake Wobegon
Climb out across the step in the roof about 15m left of 'The Volcano Lover' and pull around lip. Traverse left across the juggy wall then finish up crack. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1994 | 15m | |||
19 R | Harnessing Peacocks
Juggy looking line 8m left of 'Lake Wobegon'. FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 1994 | 12m | |||
22 | What's Bred in the Bone
Good. Would be better if the third bolt was moved so the cam isn't needed. Start: Start below turret towards left side of face 3m left of 'Harnessing Peacocks'. FA: Kieran Loughran & Hugh Widdowson, 1994 | 15m | |||
North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Bordel Buttress | |||||
18 | Elle’s Belles
This starts below the large roof left of Venus.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Pat Ford, 2000 | 45m, 2 | |||
17 | The Main Course
FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns (alt.) & Michael Stone, 2000 | 60m, 2 | |||
15 | Venus
This starts just left of the corner that is around left of Sweet Sue. Go up the line that heads to a break in the roof at the very top. Finish up the exposed, but easy, chimney. FA: Iain Sedgman & Philip Armstrong, 1977 | 35m | |||
14 | Keith's Route
Climb the line 1m left of the arete between Venus and Sweet Sue. FA: Keith Egerton, 1977 | 40m | |||
15 | Hobson Undertakers
This starts 6m right of Keith’s Route and 2m left of Sweet Sue. Head up the overhanging crack until a ledge is reached, step left and climb the wall above until it’s necessary to move onto the arete, then continue up. FA: Graeme Smith, Phil Benson & andrew webb, 1991 | 40m | |||
18 | ★ Wavelength
Start at Hobson Undertakers. On the right of the cubic block is a crack. Climb it then go up the centre of the face above. Take plenty of small wires for protection. FA: Tim Day & Nigel Minchington, 1997 | 45m | |||
12 | ★ Sweet Sue
This is the corner capped with a broken orange roof at two thirds height.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977 | 45m, 2 | |||
14 | Odette
Head up the face to the left of Strumpet. FA: Tim Day & Ylva Wakefield, 1997 | 40m | |||
11 | Strumpet
This is the prominent corner 30m right of Sweet Sue. Bridge up the corner to the top, go up the chimney, and then climb the right-hand line to finish. FA: Peter Watling & Dave Asquith, 1985 | 25m | |||
16 | Natalia
This starts a few metres left of Bridget.
FA: Tim Day & Craig Hargreaves, 1997 | 40m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ La Probe
The line up the middle of the face L of Bridget that finishes through the steepest part of the wall. Start 1m L of Bridget, following intermittent corners and cracks to the steepening. Climb through overlap to cave, then up the corner to roof, great moves take you out L past the roof to the top. Good gear where you need it. FA: jack jane & Danny Wade, 28 Oct 2021 | 34m | |||
15 | ★★★ Bridget
This is the line in the centre of the wall right of Strumpet. FA: Iain Sedgman & Philip Armstrong, 1977 | 35m | |||
11 | Aunt Glad
This is the corner 8m right of Bridget. FA: Philip Armstrong & Iain Sedgman, 1977 | 30m |