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Description

One of the best sport crags for the medium grade climber. A multi-tiered cave of superb bulging orange rock with exposure to boot! The novelty of the awesome belay ledges and the via ferrata make a particularly memorable day out. You'll need to climb two pitches to make it up to the really good stuff on the third tier.

This cliff is blessed with shade and cooling breezes until 3pm in summer. It overhangs enough that light drizzle is not much of a problem. In heavy rain go elsewhere.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

From start of 'Tortoise Wall' walk-in (the carpark at the water works) cross creek to the north side then walk up the side of the creek following cairns that lead steeply up ridge to arrive below crag about 20m left of Tigers Mitre's Central Organ. Heavy duty footwear is recommended as it is steep and very rough. All routes are described from left to right and from bottom to top! It is a complex area so refer to the photo topo for more detail.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Tier 1

1
23 Jungle Jellies Trad 20m

Right facing jam crack then bulging orange wall and finger crack crux. Finish up easy wall above to rap anchors on ledge. Bring a full rack of wires and a few medium cams.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

2
24 Fruit Punch Sport 17m, 6

Left facing blank corner then bulging face above with crazy fist jam crux in pocket. A bit dirty. Crux can be avoided by climbing right into 'Forbidden Fruits' at grade 23. Six bolts and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

3
20 * Forbidden Fruits Sport 17m, 5

Sustained reachy pockets up wall just right of 'Fruit Punch'. A fantastic warm-up for the upper tier routes. Five FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

4
14 Winter Solstice Trad 25m

Starts below a jagged flake on the right end of the wall. Climb small right-facing corner to flake, then around right to finish up slab. Walk off left or rap from tree.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, 1997

5

Surprisingly good for a wide crack. Climb the major corner on the right side of the recessed wall.

FA: Kym Sinclair, Sharyn George, Geoff Butcher, 1997

6

The easiest sport route in the Grampians? This is the sport climbers approach pitch to the upper tiers of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'. Five FHs up slabby marbled wall. Belay off bolt anchor at back of ledge.

Start: Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson

7
17 * A Good Day Out Trad 30m

Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge.

FA: Greg Caire, Tanya Freeman, Geoff Butcher , 1997

8

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

Tier 2

Climb pitch 1 of The First Crusade to get to this large ledge. It is big enough to be safe to walk around on without a rope.

9
20 Spent Sport 5

FFA: 2006

10
17 * Carcazonz Crack Trad 35m

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2006

11

Two pitches of trad adventure squeezed into between the foreboding caves of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts at polished yellow handcrack at left end of the Second Tier overhangs. Belay in cave halfway up. Step right then up wide layback crack to roof. Traverse out left to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2006

12
19 Slow Roasted Piggy Sport 20m, 4

Easiest line up through the second tier. Awkward mantle onto ledge then up steep weakness in left side of roof. Ramble up choss to top. Four FHs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2006

13

Steep thugging then easy wall. 7 FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

14
26 Growling Dog Sport 14m, 5
15
24 *** Game of Thrones Sport 15m, 6

Start Up Blood letter to the third bolt then head straight up past 3 more fixed hangers to a double bolt belay on a ledge.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Ross Taylor, 2012

16
24 ** Blood Letter Sport 17m, 8

Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier. Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

17
21 Alexius Sport 16m, 5

Very reachy crux. Starts at the right edge of the second tier at juggy rib. Up this for 3m then swing left onto hanging wall and jug up onto face. Easily up slab to finish as for 'Blood Letter'. Inconsistent.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

18
15 Flanked Trad 25m

Start on rib as for 'Alexius' but continue up this with wide crack on the left. When it gets a bit tricky step right slightly and up horizontals to ledge. Step left off ledge back onto wall and up this for 8m to big ledge and belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2007

Tier 3

19
24 * War Horse Sport 19m, 7

Outrageous positions up the crazy giant plates on the left side of the ledge. Finish up headwall (out of sight of the belayer). 7 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mark Gould, 2006

20
26 ** Siege Machine Sport 20m, 7

Straight up the guts of the steepest tallest bit of the crag with some very creative moves in the middle. Slopers, jugs and then final killer headwall. Use a sling on the fifth bolt to avoid the rope cutting plate.

Start: Starts 4m left of The First Crusade.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

21
24 *** Jerusalem Sport 17m, 6

Unrelenting steepness. Start at the impressive pillar of prehistoric birdpoo. Scuttle left and out through roof and up endless jugs and steepness above past a few giant heucos. 6 FHs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2006

22

Superb orange scoop with tricky roof start. Starts directly above rap rings. 7 bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

23
22 *** Christendom Sport 17m

Brilliant. A easier variant start to The First Crusade that eliminates the brutal roof. Start up heucos on the left edge of the right wall then trend left to join into TFC at its 4th bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith

24
25 ** Emphysema Sport 15m, 6

Probably hard 24 but we couldn't give 'another' route at this crag grade 24. The direct line between First Crusade Pitch 3 and 'Catapult'. Start as for 'Christendom' but instead of traversing off left keeping cranking up the direct line. Quite sustained in the upper half. Six FHs and loweroff.

FA: Neil Monteith & Tim Storey, 2007

25
24 ** Catapult Sport 15m, 5

A wild dyno! Slopey orange goodness from start to finish up the giant heucos. 5 FHs. Starts 2m left of Nicea.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

26
21 * Nicaea Sport 15m, 5

Nice orange bulges - but a shabby first few metres. 4 FH's.

Start: Starts on the far right of the wall at end of fixed rope.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

27

Far right of third tier. Needs bolts.

Tier 4

Only one route exists right on the top of cliff. It's not a classic but worth doing for the full four pitch experience.

28

Short but sweet face pitch right on the top of the crag! 3 FHs and single bolt lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

29
17 * Possum Police Trad 25m

Climb corner as for 'Winter Solstice' then move left under bulge. Continue straight up wall on pockets, then upper wall on small edges to ledge.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Sharyn George, Kym Sinclair, 1997

30

Cute. Start right of Tiger Mitre's etc, 2m left Legend Of 'The Fall'. Climb small right facing corner to overlap, step left then up to tree. Rap off tree.

FA: Greg Caire, Geoff Butcher, Tanya Freeman, 1997

31
20 Short Sharp Shock Trad 15m

Steeper and nicer than it looks. Climb the obvious steep, short crack 2m right of Legends Of the Fall to ledge.

FA: Greg Caire, Tanya Freeman, 1997

32

Enjoyable, interesting trad climbing and a nice way to get to the 3rd tier. Starts 1m left of Carcassonne and Cassoulet at undercut left leading crack. Pull on and head left up nice crack with decent gear and better holds than expected. Mantle to reach large ledge at about 12m, then move right over Carcassonee and Cassoulet past bush and traverse easily (without any gear past the bush) to the base of the 3rd tier. Be wary of choss near the end.

FA: Josef Goding, Achim Gross, 2007

33
16 The Shortest Day Trad 25m

20m right of 'A Good Day Out'. Climb nice looking crack 3m left of 'Gorker' to under overlap. Exit left. Rap from tree.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, Sharyn George, 1997

34
7 Unknown Trad 10m

Quick way to the top if you have a trad rack!

FA: Pete Donald & Jackie Colhan, 2006

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