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Description

One of the best sport crags for the medium grade climber. A multi-tiered cave of superb bulging orange rock with exposure to boot! The novelty of the awesome belay ledges and the via ferrata make a particularly memorable day out. You'll need to climb two pitches to make it up to the really good stuff on the third tier.

This cliff is blessed with shade and cooling breezes until 3pm in summer. It overhangs enough that light drizzle is not much of a problem. In heavy rain go elsewhere.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

From start of 'Tortoise Wall' walk-in (the carpark at the water works) cross creek to the north side then walk up the side of the creek following cairns that lead steeply up ridge to arrive below crag about 20m left of Tigers Mitre's Central Organ. Heavy duty footwear is recommended as it is steep and very rough. All routes are described from left to right and from bottom to top! It is a complex area so refer to the photo topo for more detail.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
23 Jungle Jellies Trad 20m

Right facing jam crack then bulging orange wall and finger crack crux. Finish up easy wall above to rap anchors on ledge. Bring a full rack of wires and a few medium cams.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

2
24 Fruit Punch Sport 17m, 6

Left facing blank corner then bulging face above with crazy fist jam crux in pocket. A bit dirty. Crux can be avoided by climbing right into 'Forbidden Fruits' at grade 23. Six bolts and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

3
20 * Forbidden Fruits Sport 17m, 5

Sustained reachy pockets up wall just right of 'Fruit Punch'. A fantastic warm-up for the upper tier routes. Five FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

4
14 Winter Solstice Trad 25m

Starts below a jagged flake on the right end of the wall. Climb small right-facing corner to flake, then around right to finish up slab. Walk off left or rap from tree.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, 1997

5

Surprisingly good for a wide crack. Climb the major corner on the right side of the recessed wall.

FA: Kym Sinclair, Sharyn George, Geoff Butcher, 1997

6

The easiest sport route in the Grampians? This is the sport climbers approach pitch to the upper tiers of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'. Five FHs up slabby marbled wall. Belay off bolt anchor at back of ledge.

Start: Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson

7
17 * A Good Day Out Trad 30m

Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge.

FA: Greg Caire, Tanya Freeman, Geoff Butcher , 1997

8

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

9
20 Spent Sport 5

FFA: 2006

10
17 * Carcazonz Crack Trad 35m

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2006

11
19 Slow Roasted Piggy Sport 20m, 4

Easiest line up through the second tier. Awkward mantle onto ledge then up steep weakness in left side of roof. Ramble up choss to top. Four FHs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2006

12

Steep thugging then easy wall. 7 FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

13
26 Growling Dog Sport 14m, 5
14
24 *** Game of Thrones Sport 15m, 6

Start Up Blood letter to the third bolt then head straight up past 3 more fixed hangers to a double bolt belay on a ledge.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Ross Taylor, 2012

15
24 ** Blood Letter Sport 17m, 8

Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier. Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

16
21 Alexius Sport 16m, 5

Very reachy crux. Starts at the right edge of the second tier at juggy rib. Up this for 3m then swing left onto hanging wall and jug up onto face. Easily up slab to finish as for 'Blood Letter'. Inconsistent.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

17
15 Flanked Trad 25m

Start on rib as for 'Alexius' but continue up this with wide crack on the left. When it gets a bit tricky step right slightly and up horizontals to ledge. Step left off ledge back onto wall and up this for 8m to big ledge and belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2007

18
24 * War Horse Sport 19m, 7

Outrageous positions up the crazy giant plates on the left side of the ledge. Finish up headwall (out of sight of the belayer). 7 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mark Gould, 2006

19
26 ** Siege Machine Sport 20m, 7

Straight up the guts of the steepest tallest bit of the crag with some very creative moves in the middle. Slopers, jugs and then final killer headwall. Use a sling on the fifth bolt to avoid the rope cutting plate.

Start: Starts 4m left of The First Crusade.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

20
24 *** Jerusalem Sport 17m, 6

Unrelenting steepness. Start at the impressive pillar of prehistoric birdpoo. Scuttle left and out through roof and up endless jugs and steepness above past a few giant heucos. 6 FHs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2006

21

Superb orange scoop with tricky roof start. Starts directly above rap rings. 7 bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

22
22 *** Christendom Sport 17m

Brilliant. A easier variant start to The First Crusade that eliminates the brutal roof. Start up heucos on the left edge of the right wall then trend left to join into TFC at its 4th bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith

23
25 ** Emphysema Sport 15m, 6

Probably hard 24 but we couldn't give 'another' route at this crag grade 24. The direct line between First Crusade Pitch 3 and 'Catapult'. Start as for 'Christendom' but instead of traversing off left keeping cranking up the direct line. Quite sustained in the upper half. Six FHs and loweroff.

FA: Neil Monteith & Tim Storey, 2007

24
24 ** Catapult Sport 15m, 5

Dyno!

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

25
21 * Nicaea Sport 15m, 5

Nice orange bulges - but a shabby first few metres. 4 FH's.

Start: Starts on the far right of the wall at end of fixed rope.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

26

Far right of third tier. Needs bolts.

27

Short but sweet face pitch right on the top of the crag! 3 FHs and single bolt lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

28
17 * Possum Police Trad 25m

Climb corner as for 'Winter Solstice' then move left under bulge. Continue straight up wall on pockets, then upper wall on small edges to ledge.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Sharyn George, Kym Sinclair, 1997

29

Cute. Start right of Tiger Mitre's etc, 2m left Legend Of 'The Fall'. Climb small right facing corner to overlap, step left then up to tree. Rap off tree.

FA: Greg Caire, Geoff Butcher, Tanya Freeman, 1997

30
20 Short Sharp Shock Trad 15m

Steeper and nicer than it looks. Climb the obvious steep, short crack 2m right of Legends Of the Fall to ledge.

FA: Greg Caire, Tanya Freeman, 1997

31

Enjoyable, interesting trad climbing and a nice way to get to the 3rd tier. Starts 1m left of Carcassonne and Cassoulet at undercut left leading crack. Pull on and head left up nice crack with decent gear and better holds than expected. Mantle to reach large ledge at about 12m, then move right over Carcassonee and Cassoulet past bush and traverse easily (without any gear past the bush) to the base of the 3rd tier. Be wary of choss near the end.

FA: Josef Goding, Achim Gross, 2007

32
16 The Shortest Day Trad 25m

20m right of 'A Good Day Out'. Climb nice looking crack 3m left of 'Gorker' to under overlap. Exit left. Rap from tree.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, Sharyn George, 1997

33
7 Unknown Trad 10m

Quick way to the top if you have a trad rack!

FA: Pete Donald & Jackie Colhan, 2006

34

Two pitches of trad adventure squeezed into between the foreboding caves of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts at polished yellow handcrack at left end of the Second Tier overhangs. Belay in cave halfway up. Step right then up wide layback crack to roof. Traverse out left to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2006

Open trips

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