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Description

A complex area of caves and buttresses hidden from the road in behind 'Eagle Rock'. The best quality routes are the furthest away, up on the aptly named Prow. You can always find something shady and climbable in summer around here. In winter it can be a biting wind tunnel.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Red Rock Area

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

Approach

From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive north along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn right at a fork in the track and drive to just before a creek crossing. Park as per the tower. Follow pink taped track until you stumble upon first rocks. Move left following green tape. To get up to the main Prow you will need to scramble/solo up the very juggy wall just right of 'Poison Bait' cave. Beginners might need a rope for this.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Ridgeline Crags

The first routes are located along the north facing rocky ridgeline you walk up when approaching The Prow.

1
18 Stone Circus Trad 40m

A wee bit of jamming. A slabby start leads to the diagonal line. At the final overhangs, step R to the finishing crack.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1988

2
17 All Said And Done Trad 12m

A little bon-bon above 'Stone Circus'. Scramble 45m above 'Stone Circus' to a distinctive crack on the corner of the buttress above. A steep jam crack leads to pretty corner, which quickly eases.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1988

3
23 * Angry Arborist Trad 25m

Located on north facing wall about 100m west of 'Framed' (The Prow). Traverse up and left along easy wall (cam & RB) to below big heuco. Very reachy (impossible if short!) crux dyno to hecuo and into small cave. Out right and up steep wall to lower off. Six ringbolts.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

4

Climb to second bolt of 'Angry Arborist'. Rather than dynoing upwards, traverse left delicately to exposed swing onto arete. Up jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Rohan Archibald, 2003

5

Overhung corner 10m left of 'Angry Arborist'. Thin laybacking past BR to short wide juggy crack. As for original route.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2003

6

10m left of 'Tree Hugger' is another steep orange wall. On the left edge is a steep seam crack with a FH and piton. Up.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2004

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2004

Posion Bait Cave

Compact and very steep cave with dark orange rock about 100m east of Angry Arborist, and right below the western end of The Prow.

7
KP - Mini Project Mixed Project 8m, 3

Starts left of Talon. Mini route on simply great stone.

8
25 * Talon Trad 13m

The left line in the cave. Cruxy flake on the lower wall, then juggy roof to finish. 5 RBs. Grade is skeptical as Neil thought it was much harder than 'Poison Bait'.

FA: HB

9

Up to Poison Bait's third bolt, then traverse left on slopers to finish up 'Talon'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

10
26 ** Poison Bait Mixed 12m, 5

Bouldery start with five metre cieling. A sport classic!

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

The Prow

This very windy and exposed crag is situated directly above the Poison Bait Cave and is accessed by a scramble up the right side juggy cliff just right of Poison Bait. Not really suitable for non-climbers/kids.

11
12 * Notre Dame Trad 25m

The very L side of the wall has distinctly easier ground. This route takes the line of least resistance across L and above the void to a steep finish on good holds.

FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1994

12
10 Ringing in My Ears Trad 20m

Quite nice. As for 'Notre Dame' but straight up and through the steepness at the major break.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1994

13
17 * Hunchback Trad 20m

Very enjoyable. At the left side of the wall is a line of jugs. Steeply up these to a tiny stance in corner then keep going straight up the juggy rib to easier ground.

FA: Glen Tempest, 1994

14
23 * Quasimodo's Dream Trad 20m

Steep fun on big holds all the way. Start up 'Hunchback' to tiny stance. Traverse up right on good jugs, then, against your better judgement, straight up overhanging grey wall past FH to sling lower-off point.

FA: Glen Tempest, 1994

15
23 ** Three Legged Dog Sport 20m

Steep pumpy gym style climbing. Adds a hard direct start to Quasimodo's Dream on the Prow. Starts 3m right of 'Hunchback' at protruding wide tufa fin. Up this with difficulty (FH) to large jug. A thin move leads to killer jugs up outstanding orange wall. All bolts and new lower off.

FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2005

16
KP -Project Sport Project

Direct finish to alcy malcy project. Look for the anchor!

17

Mega line right through the guts of the wall with a bold right leading finish. The reachy start still stumps Malcolm. He can do the rest at 26...

18

Splitter steep finger crack on the right side of 'The Prow'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson

19
27 * Framed Trad 17m

Start up 'The Honeymoon is Over' then clip a bolt way out R. Swing R to the nose and up the wall past a PR.

FA: Dave Jones & Richard Heap

Northern Mega Cave

Huge cave on the northern side and underneath The Prow.

20
KP Project - Random Forrest Sport Project 20m

In cave underneath main prow. Access from cliff line next to poison bait cave. Big line that required a lot as messing around to bolt. Please stay off.

Random Far South East Routes

Scattered in the forest to the south and east of The Prow main block are a few pillars and smaller walls.

21
22 * Double Short Black Mixed 10m, 3

Steep climbing on good holds. Twin ropes recommended.

Start: Located on buttress (Latte Land) about 60m south of 'Chemical Addiction'. Located at west end of buttress and right of chasm.

FA: Joe Goding & Amanda Cole, 2003

22
19 Chemical Addiction Mixed 8m, 1

Located on southern side of small boulder [The 'Small' Block] which is at eastern end of 'The Prow'. Stickclip FH at 4m. Jump for good holds in middle of the small block (or delicately up just R). Up and R of FH, past R side of rooflet. Tending L past this with good wires to top. Natural belay. Walk off.

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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