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Description

A complex area of caves and buttresses hidden from the road in behind 'Eagle Rock'. The best quality routes are the furthest away, up on the aptly named Prow. You can always find something shady and climbable in summer around here. In winter it can be a biting wind tunnel.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Red Rock Area

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

Approach

From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive north along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn left at a fork in the track and drive across two large gravel pits to the far eastern side (2WDs might have problems on the big ditches!). Find a very vague cairned or tape marked track on the west edge of this gravel pit. Follow this track across flat ground for 10 minutes until you hit a large gully with small rock buttresses on the far side. Drop down and across this swampy gully and up to the rock buttress on the far side. Walk along the bottom of these small crags leftwards and steeply uphill for another 10 minutes to arrive at 'Poison Bait' cave. You'll pass several impressive but mostly blank walls on the way along. To get up to the main Prow you will need to scramble/solo up the very juggy wall just right of 'Poison Bait' cave. Beginners might need a rope for this.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Stone Circus Trad 40m

A wee bit of jamming. A slabby start leads to the diagonal line. At the final overhangs, step R to the finishing crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1988

2
17 All Said And Done Trad 12m

A little bon-bon above 'Stone Circus'. Scramble 45m above 'Stone Circus' to a distinctive crack on the corner of the buttress above. A steep jam crack leads to pretty corner, which quickly eases.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1988

3
23 * Angry Arborist Trad 25m

Located on north facing wall about 100m west of 'Framed' (The Prow). Traverse up and left along easy wall (cam & RB) to below big heuco. Very reachy (impossible if short!) crux dyno to hecuo and into small cave. Out right and up steep wall to lower off. Six ringbolts.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

4
16 Hippy Tree Hugger Trad 20m
6

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2004

7
25 * Talon Trad 13m

The left line in the cave. Cruxy flake on the lower wall, then juggy roof to finish. 5 RBs. Grade is skeptical as Neil thought it was much harder than 'Poison Bait'.

FA: HB

8
26 ** Poison Bait Mixed 12m, 5

Bouldery start with five metre cieling. A sport classic!

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

9
17 * Hunchback Trad 20m

Very enjoyable. At the left side of the wall is a line of jugs. Steeply up these to a tiny stance in corner then keep going straight up the juggy rib to easier ground.

FA: Glen Tempest, 1994

10
23 * Quasimodo's Dream Trad 20m

Steep fun on big holds all the way. Start up 'Hunchback' to tiny stance. Traverse up right on good jugs, then, against your better judgement, straight up overhanging grey wall past FH to sling lower-off point.

FA: Glen Tempest, 1994

11
23 ** Three Legged Dog Trad 20m

Steep pumpy gym style climbing. Adds a hard direct start to Quasimodo's Dream on the Prow. Starts 3m right of 'Hunchback' at protruding wide tufa fin. Up this with difficulty (FH) to large jug (small wire on left). A thin move leads to killer jugs up outstanding orange wall (2 FH�s) to join Quasimodo�s Dream at horizontal break 2/3rd of the way up the wall. Finish direct up juggy prow rather than bailing off to the left. Single FH and sling rap anchor. Bring a small range of cams and wires or just run it out between the bolts!

FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2005

12
13

Splitter steep finger crack on the right side of 'The Prow'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson

14
27 * Framed Trad 17m

Start up 'The Honeymoon is Over' then clip a bolt way out R. Swing R to the nose and up the wall past a PR.

FA: Dave Jones, Richard Heap

15
25 Malcolm's Crack Trad 10m

10m left of 'Tree Hugger' is another steep orange wall. On the left edge is a steep seam crack with a FH and piton. Up.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2004

16

Up to Poison Bait's third bolt, then traverse left on slopers to finish up 'Talon'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

17
12 * Notre Dame Trad 25m

The very L side of the wall has distinctly easier ground. This route takes the line of least resistance across L and above the void to a steep finish on good holds.

FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1994

18

Mega line right through the guts of the wall with a bold right leading finish. The reachy start still stumps Malcolm. He can do the rest at 26...

19
16 Tree Hugger Trad 20m

Climb to second bolt of 'Angry Arborist'. Rather than dynoing upwards, traverse left delicately to exposed swing onto arete. Up jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Rohan Archibald, 2003

20
21 Tree Hugger Direct Trad 16m

Overhung corner 10m left of 'Angry Arborist'. Thin laybacking past BR to short wide juggy crack. As for original route.

FA: Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson, 2003

21
10 Ringing in My Ears Trad 20m

Quite nice. As for 'Notre Dame' but straight up and through the steepness at the major break.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1994

22
22 * Double Short Black Mixed 10m, 3

Steep climbing on good holds. Twin ropes recommended.

Start: Located on buttress (Latte Land) about 60m south of 'Chemical Addiction'. Located at west end of buttress and right of chasm.

FA: Joe Goding, Amanda Cole, 2003

23
19 Chemical Addiction Mixed 8m, 1

Located on southern side of small boulder [The 'Small' Block] which is at eastern end of 'The Prow'. Stickclip FH at 4m. Jump for good holds in middle of the small block (or delicately up just R). Up and R of FH, past R side of rooflet. Tending L past this with good wires to top. Natural belay. Walk off.

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