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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The crack right of the right-hand arete of the outcrop.

FA: Peter Watling, 1985

His block.

Go up the right-hand arete of the outcrop, step left at the bulge and up the line.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985

Initial difficulties ease.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985

Superb jamming. Slightly dirty exit doesn't really detract.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Nyrie Dodd, 1985

A pretty good route up the middle of the wall, but the fixed gear needs sorting out.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

Short boludery section past manky fixed pin.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

A good mixture with jamming and technical face climbing.

Start: Start on the left wall of the descent gully at a hand-carck in a black face.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985

Path of least resistance left of "Not Raving But Climbing" and right of the arete right of "Wimp's Picnic".

FA: Neil Barr & Les Flynn, 1986

Why bother?

Start: Start at hidden chimney 30 metres left of "Not Raving But Climbing".

FA: Peter Watling & Julie Flynn, 1985

A classic at the grade.

FA: Alan Hope & Julie Flynn, 1983

Enjoyable as long as you don't fall off.

Start: Start a metre or so right of "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat".

  1. 20m (16) Head diagonally right to the ledge and bushes halfway up the right arete of the wall

  2. 20m (8) Up the arete, as for "Black Feral cat, An Undeniable Truth".

FA: Greg Caire, Sharyn George & Glenn Tempest, 1997

The arete left of "Keiph Ledgerton", starting up a crack on the left. At the overhang make a brief detour onto the left wall.

FA: Neil Barr, Linda Horsley & Julie Flynn, 1983

Climb the middle of the black slab.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Darby, 1983

Has fragile face-climbing with no protection. Basically superseded by the later routes on this face.

Start: Start as for "Fried Tent Dwellers"

FA: Peter Darby & Neil Barr, 1983

Follow the crack past a bush and on to a tree near the overlap (belay possible). Continue through the overlap an up.

Start: Start on the face left of and at right-angles to "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat" at a crack.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Chris Lawrence, 1991

Great face climbing on a smooth wall.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Fried Tent Dwellers".

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

Something of an escape from "Seaweed Gorillas"

Start: Start as for "Seaweed Gorillas"

FA: Goeff Butcher, 1991

A good, sustained climb.

Start: Start at thin crack just right of the arete left of "Irish IUD"

  1. 20m (19) Up the thin crack until able to move left to a flake-line on the arete. When the flake ends, traverse left to the base of a crack in the centre of the wall and a tiny stance.

  2. 35m (20) Up the crack with some hard moves when it thins down and leads diagonally left.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Ed Neve (alt), 1986

A superb piece of rock but tends to be a bit damp after rain.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985

Intermittent cracks in the wall right of the corner.

FA: Neil Barr, Julie Flynn & Linda Horsley, 1983

Corner to cave. Now either abseil off, wander carefully off right or continue up unpleasant off-width.

Start: Start amongst the trundle craters below the major corner.

FA: Linda Horsley, julie Flynn & Neil Barr, 1983

Reported as dangerously loose by the FA party.

Start: Start below a large roof which is a prominent feature of the crag (VRG)

  1. 35m (5) Up the line to a perched boulder. Back off a little and go up the right-hand crack to a large ledge on the right.

  2. 35m (5) Climb up to the roof. Back off a little and traverse right instead and finish up the wall right of the roof on awesome jugs.

FA: Neil Barr & Julie Flynn, 1985

Up seam then right to twin cracks and so to gum tree.

Start: Start at thin crack 5 metres left of "F!lush".

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993

Trench climbing par excellence.

Start: Start at the right-hand side of the major horizontal break that "Grease Nipples" traverse from the left..

FA: Louise Shepherd & Nyrie Dodd, 1985

Up wall, steeply at first then easily to a ledge at 8 metres. Step left and continue up the steep wall.

Start: Start at foot of knobbly wall on right of scungy corner.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993

Climb up to ledge at 8 metres then move 3 metres right and climb crack-line running between left chimney and right arete.

Start: Start as for 'Fillet De Boeuf'

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993

Marginal pro.

Start: Start on grey wall 25 metres right of 'Petit Dejeuner'

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993

Not sure whether this should be under 'Mt Pox' or 'Slander Gully'.

Start: Follow track to knobbly, steep wall 100 metres right and upstream from Gastronomique Wall.

FA: Christina Freestone & Greg Aimer, 1993

FA: Ramon Francis, 2003

The left wall of the "Cymru" corner is undercut by a cave.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1995

The right-hand line from thee ledge has good climbing after the initial scungy section.

  1. 38m (20) Up to the ledge then step right and up corner. Step left and mantle, up to roof, then step right to belay.

  2. 18m (-) Crack, then left across horizontal to second crack. Up.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1996


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