Details needed

This crag does not have a description!

Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

The crack right of the right-hand arete of the outcrop.

FA: Peter Watling, 1985

2

His block.

Go up the right-hand arete of the outcrop, step left at the bulge and up the line.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Watling, 1985

3

Initial difficulties ease.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Watling, 1985

4
23 * Golden Gaytime Trad 25m

Superb jamming. Slightly dirty exit doesn't really detract.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Nyrie Dodd, 1985

5
25 * Give Me Aids Mixed 20m, 1

A pretty good route up the middle of the wall, but the fixed gear needs sorting out.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

6

Short boludery section past manky fixed pin.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

7

A good mixture with jamming and technical face climbing.

Start: Start on the left wall of the descent gully at a hand-carck in a black face.

FA: Neil Barr and Peter Watling, 1985

8
5 Motornose Trad 45m

Path of least resistance left of "Not Raving But Climbing" and right of the arete right of "Wimp's Picnic".

FA: Neil Barr, Les Flynn, 1986

9
12 Whimp's Picnic Trad 50m

Why bother?

Start: Start at hidden chimney 30 metres left of "Not Raving But Climbing".

FA: Peter Watling, Julie Flynn, 1985

10
9 * Keiph Ledgerton Trad 47m

A classic at the grade.

FA: Alan Hope, Julie Flynn, 1983

11

Enjoyable as long as you don't fall off.

Start: Start a metre or so right of "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat".

  1. 20m (16) Head diagonally right to the ledge and bushes halfway up the right arete of the wall

  2. 20m (8) Up the arete, as for "Black Feral cat, An Undeniable Truth".

FA: Greg Caire, Sharyn George, Glenn Tempest, 1997

12

The arete left of "Keiph Ledgerton", starting up a crack on the left. At the overhang make a brief detour onto the left wall.

FA: Neil Barr, Linda Horsley, Julie Flynn, 1983

13

Climb the middle of the black slab.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Darby, 1983

14
20 X Irish IUD Trad 35m

Has fragile face-climbing with no protection. Basically superseded by the later routes on this face.

Start: Start as for "Fried Tent Dwellers"

FA: Peter Darby, Neil Barr, 1983

15

Follow the crack past a bush and on to a tree near the overlap (belay possible). Continue through the overlap an up.

Start: Start on the face left of and at right-angles to "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat" at a crack.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence, 1991

16
22 ** Seaweed Gorillas Mixed 40m, 2

Great face climbing on a smooth wall.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Fried Tent Dwellers".

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

17

Something of an escape from "Seaweed Gorillas"

Start: Start as for "Seaweed Gorillas"

FA: Goeff Butcher, 1991

18
20 * Not About Heroes Trad 55m

A good, sustained climb.

Start: Start at thin crack just right of the arete left of "Irish IUD"

  1. 20m (19) Up the thin crack until able to move left to a flake-line on the arete. When the flake ends, traverse left to the base of a crack in the centre of the wall and a tiny stance.

  2. 35m (20) Up the crack with some hard moves when it thins down and leads diagonally left.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve (alt), 1986

19
16 * F!ush Trad 40m

A superb piece of rock but tends to be a bit damp after rain.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Watling, 1985

20
14 Bonsai Your Pet Trad 18m

Intermittent cracks in the wall right of the corner.

FA: Neil Barr, Julie Flynn, Linda Horsley, 1983

21

Corner to cave. Now either abseil off, wander carefully off right or continue up unpleasant off-width.

Start: Start amongst the trundle craters below the major corner.

FA: Linda Horsley, julie Flynn, Neil Barr, 1983

22
5 Scabs On Heat Trad 70m

Reported as dangerously loose by the FA party.

Start: Start below a large roof which is a prominent feature of the crag (VRG)

  1. 35m (5) Up the line to a perched boulder. Back off a little and go up the right-hand crack to a large ledge on the right.

  2. 35m (5) Climb up to the roof. Back off a little and traverse right instead and finish up the wall right of the roof on awesome jugs.

FA: Neil Barr, Julie Flynn, 1985

23
21 * Ambrose Trad 25m

Up seam then right to twin cracks and so to gum tree.

Start: Start at thin crack 5 metres left of "F!lush".

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1993

24
22 Work The Meat Trad 30m

Trench climbing par excellence.

Start: Start at the right-hand side of the major horizontal break that "Grease Nipples" traverse from the left..

FA: Louise Shepherd, Nyrie Dodd, 1985

25
18 Fillet De Boeuf Trad 20m

Up wall, steeply at first then easily to a ledge at 8 metres. Step left and continue up the steep wall.

Start: Start at foot of knobbly wall on right of scungy corner.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1993

26
13 Petit Dejeuner Trad 12m

Climb up to ledge at 8 metres then move 3 metres right and climb crack-line running between left chimney and right arete.

Start: Start as for 'Fillet De Boeuf'

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1993

27
15 R Hot Croissant Trad 10m

Marginal pro.

Start: Start on grey wall 25 metres right of 'Petit Dejeuner'

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1993

28

Not sure whether this should be under 'Mt Pox' or 'Slander Gully'.

Start: Follow track to knobbly, steep wall 100 metres right and upstream from Gastronomique Wall.

FA: Christina Freestone, Greg Aimer, 1993

29
17 Deadly Earnest Trad 35m
37

FA: Ramon Francis, 2003

39
17 * Silly Sausage Trad 27m

The left wall of the "Cymru" corner is undercut by a cave.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1995

40

The right-hand line from thee ledge has good climbing after the initial scungy section.

  1. 38m (20) Up to the ledge then step right and up corner. Step left and mantle, up to roof, then step right to belay.

  2. 18m (-) Crack, then left across horizontal to second crack. Up.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 1996

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.