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Summary

Some good climbing here, lovely atmosphere near the creek.

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Follow the Waterworks Track, which runs off the Glenelg River Road for 4.4km from the start; then take the steep, 4WD track sharply on the right for 100 meters until the end then follow the creek.

If the Waterworks Track is open, walking time is only a few minutes.

If the Waterworks Track is closed; park at the gated track 700m north of No.1 Creek on Harrop Track. Walk up 600m to the Waterworks Track, turn left and follow it for 1.2km to the 4WD track, around 20-30 minutes walk

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A good mixture with jamming and technical face climbing.

Start on the left wall of the descent gully at a hand-crack in a black face.

Climb the crack up the black face to a ledge (belay possible). Continue in the shallow corner which fades out below the final exciting bulge.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985

Path of least resistance left of "Not Raving But Climbing" and right of the arete right of "Wimp's Picnic".

FA: Neil Barr & Les Flynn, 1986

Why bother?

Start: Start at hidden chimney 30 metres left of Not Raving But Climbing.

Chimney to roof. Step left and up rib to chockstone. Bridge up and finish up left wall.

FA: Peter Watling & Julie Flynn, 1985

A classic at the grade.

The centre of the face left of Wimp's Picnic

FA: Alan Hope & Julie Flynn, 1983

Enjoyable as long as you don't fall off.

Start: Start a metre or so right of "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat".

  1. 20m (16) Head diagonally right to the ledge and bushes halfway up the right arete of the wall

  2. 20m (8) Up the arete, as for "Black Feral cat, An Undeniable Truth".

FA: Greg Caire, Sharyn George & Glenn Tempest, 1997

The arete left of "Keiph Ledgerton", starting up a crack on the left. At the overhang make a brief detour onto the left wall.

FA: Neil Barr, Linda Horsley & Julie Flynn, 1983

Climb the middle of the black slab.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Darby, 1983

Has fragile face-climbing with no protection. Basically superseded by the later routes on this face.

Start as for Fried Tent Dwellers

Climb the crack of Fried Tent Dwellers to a bush. Continue up the face for 5 metres then climb diagonally left to the top.

FA: Peter Darby & Neil Barr, 1983

Start on the face left of and at right-angles to Twentieth Century Black Feral Cat at a crack.

Follow the crack past a bush and on to a tree near the overlap (belay possible). Continue through the overlap an up.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Chris Lawrence, 1991

Great face climbing on a smooth wall.

Start 3 metres left of "Fried Tent Dwellers".

Tricky start leads to a ledge and shallow corner. Up corner to BR and up the obvious water streak past another BR.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

Something of an escape from Seaweed Gorillas.

Start as for Seaweed Gorillas.

Up past first bolt on Seaweed Gorillas then move left to a crack on the arete.

FA: Goeff Butcher, 1991

A good, sustained climb.

Start: Start at thin crack just right of the arete left of "Irish IUD"

  1. 20m (19) Up the thin crack until able to move left to a flake-line on the arete. When the flake ends, traverse left to the base of a crack in the centre of the wall and a tiny stance.

  2. 35m (20) Up the crack with some hard moves when it thins down and leads diagonally left.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Ed Neve (alt), 1986

A superb piece of rock but tends to be a bit damp after rain.

The crack up the wall 15 metres left of Not About Heroes.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985

Up seam 5 metres left of F!ush, then right to twin cracks and so to gum tree.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993

Head up to a prominent water-streaked orange and black wall.

The right-hand line from the ledge has good climbing after the initial scungy section.

  1. 38m (20) Up to the ledge then step right and up corner. Step left and mantle, up to roof, then step right to belay.

  2. 18m (-) Crack, then left across horizontal to second crack. Up.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1996

Bash up the creek a little to the next line of cliffs on the south bank. There is a prominent corner where this tier meets the creek.

Intermittent cracks in the wall right of the corner.

FA: Neil Barr, Julie Flynn & Linda Horsley, 1983

Corner to cave. Now either abseil off, wander carefully off right or continue up unpleasant off-width.

Start: Start amongst the trundle craters below the major corner.

FA: Linda Horsley, julie Flynn & Neil Barr, 1983

The left wall of the "Cymru" corner is undercut by a cave.

Clamber onto and around the "sausage" to gain crack in centre of wall. climb the wall to horizontal break then step left to cave. Finish up steep crack.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1995

The prominent steep flake to the left end of the black and orange water-washed section of Sausage Wall.

Start by a conifer at the left end of the wall and boulder rightwards to line leading to flake. Thug your way over this then continue more easily to the roof. Traverse left and pull through to comfy ledge.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2000

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