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Description

The slim buttress in the middle of the valley is a remarkable piece of rock. Although appearing slightly scrappy, it offers a large number of good quality trad routes, mostly in the easier grades. What's more, the easy access to the top makes most routes easy to toprope, and the opposed orientation of 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' means that you can choose whether to climb in the sun or the shade at any time of day. These factors, combined with the proximity to the carpark, have made 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' by far the most popular crag in the entire 'Grampians'.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Summerday Valley

18 September 2015 Areas are now open except as noted here : Closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation

©

Approach

Back Wall is the SW face of 'Central Buttress', and faces the 'Wall of Fools'. With the way the track comes in these days you reach 'Back Wall' before 'Main Wall' so the names are a little confusing! It is shady until early afternoon, making it good for summer mornings and winter afternoons.

To gain the top of the crag (or to descend) you need to do a fairly easy scramble at either end, but again, don't trust the snappable jugs.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Good, but bears no similarity to the 'Buffalo' megaclassic!

Start: Start 2-3m R of OB.

  1. 12m (10) The line to the ledge.

  2. 12m (10) Continue up the line with some brittle rock.

FA: Bill Andrews & Alan Hope, 1984

Nice and long for these parts.

Start: Initialled corner a few m R of 'Cypress'.

  1. 12m (9) Up corner to the ledge. The original moved R at the flake then up the wall (15).

  2. 12m (9) The crack on the L.

FA: Stan Manley (original p1) Bill Andrews (p2 1/12/84 & p1 variant 15/12/84), 1979

Up the crack, with a ledge and small pine at half height. A poorly protected alternative finish is further to the R, the arete L of 'Odlid Baggins'.

Start: Start beneath the deep wide crack.

FA: Stan Manley, 1979

Sure Punks was influential, but these route names are getting ridiculous!

Start: Start just R of DPitMotR and just L of 'Cypress'.

FA: John Fisher & Iain Sedgman, 1985

Up the middle of the face.

Start: Start just R of PD.

FA: Iain Sedgman, John Fisher & Bill Andrews, 1985

Up the crack on the arete.

Start: Start at the arete R of GitP.

FA: John Fisher & Iain Sedgman, 1985

Up the face 1.5 L of the arete.

Start: STart a few m R of EMP, 1.5m L of the arete.

FA: Bill Andrews & solo, 1985

Up the wide crack to halfway then up the juggy R arete to the top.

Start: Start at the wide crack just R of 666.

FA: Heather Phillips +1, 1985

Originally finished into 'Overkill' but this way keeps it independent.

Start: Start 3m R of O, just L of the wide crack.

FA: Brendan O'Leary + 2 (original) & Peter Martin (as described), 1985

Ridiculously popular.

Start: Start at the thin crack just R of 'Tootsie'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983

Finish direct up the thin face above the juggy crack.

Start: Start as for 'Tootsie'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1984

Quite popular.

Start: Start at the juggy crack R of BN.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

The face to a slight bulge.

Start: Start between TCC and 'Tootsie'.

FA: Andrew Corlass + 2, 1986

Keith must've been on belay for hours with this many seconds...

Start: Start a few m R of An-tics.

FA: Keith Egerton + 7!, 1985

Thin crack with lots of good holds and bomber gear!

FA: FRA Chris Hurstfield Norm Johnson, 1984

Easy climbing up a nice corner with lots of gear placements.

FA: Stan Manley, 1979

Cruxy.

Start: Start between 'Regatta' and 'De Blanc'.

FA: Iain Sedgman + 4!, 1985

A good'n.

Start: Start at the initialled R-facing corner down the left end of 'Back Wall'.

FA: Stan Manley, 1979

Like most easy routes on 'Central Buttress' this is an excellent introductory toprope problem for beginners.

Start: Start down the L end of 'Back Wall'.

FA: Bill Andrews & solo, 1985

The front of the buttress, tricky pro.

Start: Start just R of 'Cypress'.

FA: Bill Andrews & solo, 1985

Activity

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