Wall of Fools

Access issues inherited from Summerday Valley

Main Wall is still closed after the floods of 2014 due to multiple issues- flood and fire damage and cultural heritage redevelopment required. Discussions with Land Managers are currently in progress.Please respect all closures.



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Grade Route

Start: Start from the ground, 13m L of 'Handles'.

  1. 15m (5) Juggy gutter to large ledge.

  2. 15m (5) The juggy face left of 'Silk Purse', move R towards the top.

FA: Joan Fernon & Sue Crone, 1985

Up the corner, over the little capping roof.

Start: Start on the raised ledge beneath the left facing corner.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1985

Straight up through slight bulge.

Start: Start between WYMM and the L side of the wall.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

Up cracks and over bulge.

Start: Start at the R end of the high ledge.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

Another relatively neglected line which looks very worthwhile. A star has been added to entice the crowds over from 'Back Wall'.

Start: Start just L of 'Handles'.

FA: Mathew Alen & Aidan Banfield, 1989

Long and sustained at the grade. Amazingly neglected considering the hordes which swamp the much smaller 'Back Wall' only 20m away.

Start: Start 3-4m L of SiS beneath the deep black corner/crack up high.

FA: G Brennan & Michael Wust, 1983

Doesn't see much action.

Start: Start as for 'Milupa'.

FA: Steve Mayers, James Falla & Scott Camps, 1987

An unsung gem. A long, sustained and surprisingly airy adventure at a very accessible grade and with good pro. 2 stars may be slightly generous, but should help drum up the attention this route deserves.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Soweto'.

FA: Stephanie Perry & Peter Manning (via Soweto to the break - direct start added later)., 1985

Despite being a bit of a squeeze job, it's an excellent (toprope for most) problem. Even thinner gear than Soweto. Cams, thin wires and long slings keep it sane but scary.

Start: Start just L of 'Soweto'.

FA: FTRA Peter Martin (the first half was originally done as Steph in Soweto Moderately Direct Start (16) by Melanie & James McIntosh), 1990

FFA: Matt Brooks, 19 Jan 2011

A fantastic intricate face which looks unlikely at the grade.

Start: Start at the dusty base of the wall, beneath the silvery streak.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Despite the shiny new bolts up high, the first half is serious and has seen at least one death.

Start: Start at the left end of the raised ledge. Belaying from the ground might be an idea to reduce the fall factor.

Edit: The start now has 2 new bolts, but is still some what run out.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Shepherd, 1985

A ridiculously thin looking black streak.

Start: Start beneath the widest black streak on the wall, about 20m L of the arch, and a few metres R of where the raised ledge peters out.

FA: Steve Monks, 1986

A very tough face.

Start: Start about 15m L of 'Milupa', 10m R of 'Innocent Fool'.`

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1990

The well publicised left side of the arch is probably the toughest route in Summerday.

Start: Start beneath the L side of the arch.

FA: Martin Scheel Feb/Mar, 1989

A thin slabby face that leads to a novel caving expedition.

Start: Start just L of 'Idiot Wind'.

FA: Nick Hancock

A classic concept around the right edge of, and then above, the great arch.

Start: Start below the centre of the arch.

FA: Steve Monks & Kieran Loughran, 1985

Start: Start just R of 'Idiot Wind'.

  1. 15m (24) Scary lichenous climbing past very high bolt to hanging belay.

  2. 15m (25) Past bolt to sloping ledge, then head R.

FA: P1: Peter Martin, Nick White. P2: Simon Carter, Peter Martin & March 1990, 1990

The exposed face and arete near the top are great.

Start: Start beneath the line of 'Mururoa'.

FA: James Falla & Andrew Corlass, 1985

Not much pro to start.

Start: On the right side of the "arch" which dominates the 'Wall of Fools' is a vertical seam leading up to a right-facing corner. Start half a metre right of the seam.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

Climb the prominent black streak and then carefully up the booming flake.

Start: Start about 5m R of 'Mururoa'.

FA: Tony Veling, Peter Watling, Iain Sedgman, Heather Phillips, Bill Andrews & Dave Asquith, 1985

A bouldery start gives way to an easier conclusion.

Start: Start 3m R of 'Flake of Fear'.

FA: Andrew Corlass, 1985

3 bolts.

FA: Steve Williams, 2000

Climb the right side of the slab to the ramp, then up the face past 3 bolts.

Start: Start a few metres left of 'Snow White'.

FA: Graham Jones & Andrew Corlass, 1985

Takes the prominent diagonal that runs up left into 'Mururoa'.

  1. 41m (12) Climb the initial overhanging corner via the left arete. Grade 14 if started on the right. Follow the ramp into 'Mururoa' and up the corner to a big ledge.

  2. 5m (-) The recessed corner above.

FA: Peter Watling, Tony Veling (alt), Ute Veling, Ceri Law, Iain Sedgman, John Fisher & Noel Tolley, 1985

From the ledge at the start of 'Snow White', climb up the face past a fixed wire to the horizontal. Through the slight bulge then finish up a short slab.

Start: Start as for 'Snow White'.

FA: Andrew Corlass, Malcolm Matheson, James Falla & Graham Jones, 1986

Step off the block and up to the curving flake and a nice finish.

Start: Start on the left end of a large block about 10m R of 'Snow White'.

FA: James Falla, Joan Fernon & Andrew Corlass, 1985

Follow the crack to a ledge. Move left across the slab and up to a streak of pale rock. Climb onto a right leading ramp and follow this. (The short corner on the ledge 3m to the R has been done).

Start: At the right end of the wall is a short diagonal crack, just left of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, James Falla & Andrew Corlass, 1985

It's not often that HB has needed this many people to tow him up such an insignificant route...

Start: Start 2m L of 'Much Ado About Nothing'.

FA: James Falla, Steve Williams, Andrew Corlass, Graham Jones & Malcolm Matheson, 1986

Climb the arete to the horizontal break. Move L and climb the crack in the centre of the face.

Start: Start on the block at the R end of the 'Wall of Fools'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, James Falla & Andrew Corlass, 1985

Hard thin face moves. The bolts have been replaced.

FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1993

Ascent not confirmed?

FA: Stuart Willis?, 2000

Well named in retrospect... you'll probably experience some of this considering that the write-up is based on the old track!

Start: On the wall to the left of the steps just before the old campsite is reached. Follow the wall for about 15m and you get to the initial "I".

FA: Phillip McMillan & Kevin Otten, 1985

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