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Description

This quite large wall is mainly of note for the high proportion of chossy routes. This is not to say that it's not worth visiting but you need to be selective.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Follow 'Geerak Track' south from Glenelg River Road for 3.5-4 kilometres. A broad valley runns up to the east. On the south side of the valley, fairly low on the ridge is a cliff with a prominent corner in its centre.

GR 075598

© (kieranl)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A bit scrappy. Walk-off A bit scrappy. The set of diagonals to the right of the wide line (On A Wing And A Prayer) on the south face. Not to be confused with the unclimbed thin crack just right of the wide line!

FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Miles Martin, 1983

...and a six-inch tube.

Start: Start below the wide line in the centre of the south face.

  1. 20m (16) Climb the left-hand crack to the cave.

  2. 35m (16) Chimney up and out to the front of the line and continue to the top.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1983

The arete on the left edge of the south face. Follow a ramp leading right for 5 or 6 metres then traverse left to gain the arete and follow it.

FA: Alan Hope & Kieran Loughran, 1985

"...fetch the left-handed jaffle iron, lad, and I'll tell you a story..."

Start: Between the south face and the big corner is a scrappy black line that becomes a chimney-gully just left of an orange overhang.

Climb just right of this (?scrappy black line) to overhang then traverse right until under cracks in headwall. Pull through, step right, then diagonally leftwards following vague juggy flake.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1997

There is a separate pinnacle in front of the crag below the big corner. Mike Law has soloed up the north arete and down the north-east face. Both ways are grade 11.

Pleasant wall climbing based on a series of flakes and cracks on the left side of the right wall of The GA Or FM Corner. Start a few metres right of The GA Or FM Corner. Boulder up to the first flake and a good pocket/jug which takes a #2.0 cam. Follow flakes and cracks to left end of overlap. Up to flake, then shallow left-facing corner.

FA: Michael hampton & Kym Sinclair, 1997

If you can't find this corner give the game away. The major corner.

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham, 1978

The steep left wall of the big corner offers sustained climbing with some brittle rock.

FA: Michael hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1997

If this was a building, it would be condemned.

Start: Start 5 metres right of "The Kubara" and just left of an arete and some pines.

  1. 27m (14) Up,step right then back left and follow the groove line (loose blocks) to the roof.

  2. 25m (-) Climb the crack past the right end of the roof and so to the top.

FA: Alan Hope, Mark Poustie (alt) & Gordon talbett, 1993

Start: Start on the front of the buttress left of the grotty gully where a steep groove leads to the left end of some overhangs and a roof.

  1. 35m (16) Straight up the groove to move left through the overhangs and up to the roof. Exit left and go up to a ledge.

  2. 35m (-) Finish straight up.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling & Keith Egerton, 1978

Start 10 - 15 metres left of "The Kubara" below a small roof at 12 metres.

  1. 25m (11) Up mossy wall then grey wall to small corner at left end of the small roof.

  2. 40m (-) Follow ramp up left, then up easily to top.

FA: Mark Poustie, Gordon talbett (alt) & Alan Hope, 1993

You've got buckley's of following this route description, and how it relates to the other worthless routes is anyone's guess.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "The Kubara"

  1. 25m (14) Follow flakes and corners left of "The Kubara" to a cave.

  2. 25m (14) Up and diagonally right (or maybe diagonally left as the original write-up had it) under two sets of roofs until under a diagonal roof. Traverse right to the lip and crevasse stance.

  3. 40m (-) Frontpoint easily around the lip.and up.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1979

Further around left, on the north face, is a left-leaning diagonal roof-line with an overhang low down. Start a few metres left of the line, by a native pine.

Go straight up the yellow wall to a small ledge, swing around the weakness in the overhang and continue up the main line.

FA: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979

Left of Peregrine is a gully which is the normal descent route. On the east side of the gully is a cliff with a roof towards its left side. Two lines lead up to the roof.

This is the right-hand line, a flake, to the roof. Move right and up to a bushy ledge. Chimney to top.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

Climb the left line to the roof and exit left.

FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham, 1978

One of the better climbs hereabouts, although that's not saying much.

Start: Start 20 metres left of "Picanniny" at diagonal cracks on a steep wall.

Climb a short vertical crack 3 metres left of the foot of the diagonals to the first diagonal crack. Follow this diagonal until steep face-climbing leads up right to the base of the second diagonal crack. Finish steeply up this crack.

FA: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979

Follow "Swamp Fox"'s first diagonal all the way until it finishes. Plonk some gear in a good horizontal and go straight up the black streak to exit as for "Swamp Fox".

FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, Michael Hampton & Helen Barbin, 2000

Activity

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