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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

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Grade Route
17 R * Texas Trad 100m 4

There is a weakness at the right end of the arch leading to a hanging corner. A few metres up left from the lowest point of the wall, a narrow ramp cuts steeply up right.

It would probably be safer to combine the first two pitches.

  1. 27m (17) Climb the ramp until about 3 metres below an overlap. Exposed traverse right for 7 metres then launch up and right to a hanging belay (many cams and strong nerves for belay) under the arch below the hanging belay

  2. 10m (-) Pull around arch into a hanging corner. Move up to an overlap and make a wide step left to the arete. Continue up to a stance.

  3. 28m (-) A curving flake crack leads diagonally right and up. Continue steeply to a big ledge.

  4. 35m (-) Roped scrambling up the final buttress avoids the surrounding heinous scrub.

FA: John Sanders, Gordon Talbett (var) & Peter Watling, 1991

13 Highspeed Mad Trad 40m

Climb the steep groove on the left and then follow cracks up the slab to the right-hand end of the overlap. Exciting moves left lead to a bottomless corner which is followed to the top.

Start: Start at the toe of the right-hand buttress.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Watling, 1991


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