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Description

An area hidden away about 200m north west of the Tower. This area contains several quality walls facing in all directions. Quite a bit of new route potential exists. There are two incomplete projects in this area as well.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

From Billabong Boy (Peasants Wall area) walk up hill (north) behind this route to a worthless gray juggy wall. Walk right along base of this until you can walk up a vegetated gully with an impressive 'Arapiles' style bulging wall on your left. The first route starts here. A single bolt rap anchor exists above Chimney Slot 'Thing'.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 Stakes And Ladders Trad 20m

Weaves around to get up this pleasant wall. Starts 20m left of Wrapped In Pain, just left of scungy looking chimney slot thing. Full rack required + additional slings

FA: Adam Demmert, Cath & Neil, 2007

2
24 * Wrapped in Pain Mixed 20m, 3

Located on north facing main wall with a large scooped base.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

3
22 * Slow Torture Trad 15m

Technical face and seam climbing with spaced small trad gear. Great rock.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Maggot Ridden'.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2004

4
18 * Maggot Ridden Trad 15m

West side of entrance to the 'Slow Torture' 'Gully' which is 50m west of 'Wrapped in Pain'. Worthwhile despite the name.

FA: Neil Monteith Gareth Llewellin Adam Demmert, 2004

6
16 Fly Grave Trad 25m

The giant flake on the wall between 'Slow Torture' and 'Skullcracker'. Gain the ledge below this flake by starting 8m right at weakness through rooflet (route was attempted direct but was abandoned when no pro and grade 23+ roof moves were encountered). Walk across sledge and then up nice orange wall until holds run out, look behind to see the big flake, stem onto it and jug easily on ledge. Up left to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Cath, 2007

7
22 Skullcracker Mixed 20m, 3

Scoops to flake crack then onwards to inverted ceiling. Place vital small cam in slot and swing downwards on horn jug (FH) and over lip to juggy face. Up this face (two FH¹s and sling horns) to clip-and-go lower-off.

Start: Start 20m left of "Slow Torture".

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, Rich Ham & Jono Schimdt, 2005

8
12 Knights Duel Trad 20m

Very featured crack directly opposite "Skullcracker" with nice jugs to finish.

FA: Anita Sharman & Rich Ham, 2005

9

The first crack 1m from the arete on the left side of the wall as you walk into the 'Slow Torture' gully. Tricky roof move with nice crack to finish.

FA: Anita Sharman, Rich Ham & Neil Monteith, 2005

10
20 Rich's Face Trad 15m
11

The middle crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the void, couple of hard moves lead to a rest, then waltz up the crack heading up the left branch where the crack forks and steepens. Pumpy last moves to good jugs. Abseil from sling.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

12

The right crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the gap, then blast up the crack pumping out placing gear. At small roof head up and left. Abseil off fixed sling above Walking the Void.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

13
24 A Sling And A Prayer Mixed 15m, 2

Bolted by Kent in the pouring rain using a manky sling as a harness. Hangers were recycled from one of Brookies past glories at Camels Hump. Route was abandoned to the elements for three years and finally climbed by Neil.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Open trips

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