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Description:© (nmonteith)

An area hidden away about 200m north west of the Tower. This area contains several quality walls facing in all directions. Quite a bit of new route potential exists. There are two incomplete projects in this area as well.

Access Issues: inherited from Grampians

National Park

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From Billabong Boy (Peasants Wall area) walk up hill (north) behind this route to a worthless gray juggy wall. Walk right along base of this until you can walk up a vegetated gully with an impressive 'Arapiles' style bulging wall on your left. The first route starts here. A single bolt rap anchor exists above Chimney Slot 'Thing'.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Stakes And Ladders

Weaves around to get up this pleasant wall. Starts 20m left of Wrapped In Pain, just left of scungy looking chimney slot thing. Full rack required + additional slings

FA: Adam Demmert, Cath & Neil, 2007

19
Trad 20m
2 * Wrapped in Pain

Located on north facing main wall with a large scooped base.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

24
Mixed 20m , 3
3 * Slow Torture

Technical face and seam climbing with spaced small trad gear. Great rock.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Maggot Ridden'.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2004

22
Trad 15m
4 * Maggot Ridden

West side of entrance to the 'Slow Torture' 'Gully' which is 50m west of 'Wrapped in Pain'. Worthwhile despite the name.

FA: Neil Monteith Gareth Llewellin Adam Demmert, 2004

18
Trad 15m
5 Kent's Abandonded Project
24
Trad 20m
6 Fly Grave

The giant flake on the wall between 'Slow Torture' and 'Skullcracker'. Gain the ledge below this flake by starting 8m right at weakness through rooflet (route was attempted direct but was abandoned when no pro and grade 23+ roof moves were encountered). Walk across sledge and then up nice orange wall until holds run out, look behind to see the big flake, stem onto it and jug easily on ledge. Up left to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Cath, 2007

16
Trad 25m
7 Skullcracker

Scoops to flake crack then onwards to inverted ceiling. Place vital small cam in slot and swing downwards on horn jug (FH) and over lip to juggy face. Up this face (two FH¹s and sling horns) to clip-and-go lower-off.

Start: Start 20m left of "Slow Torture".

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, Rich Ham & Jono Schimdt, 2005

22
Mixed 20m , 3
8 Knights Duel

Very featured crack directly opposite "Skullcracker" with nice jugs to finish.

FA: Anita Sharman & Rich Ham, 2005

12
Trad 20m
9 * Fire Breathing Dragon

The first crack 1m from the arete on the left side of the wall as you walk into the 'Slow Torture' gully. Tricky roof move with nice crack to finish.

FA: Anita Sharman, Rich Ham & Neil Monteith, 2005

15
Trad 20m
10 Rich's Face
20
Trad 15m
11 * Walking The Void / Adam Fingercrack

The middle crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the void, couple of hard moves lead to a rest, then waltz up the crack heading up the left branch where the crack forks and steepens. Pumpy last moves to good jugs. Abseil from sling.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

23
Trad 13m
12 Hudson's Training Route / Adam Sandbag

The right crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the gap, then blast up the crack pumping out placing gear. At small roof head up and left. Abseil off fixed sling above Walking the Void.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

20
Trad 14m
13 A Sling And A Prayer

Bolted by Kent in the pouring rain using a manky sling as a harness. Hangers were recycled from one of Brookies past glories at Camels Hump. Route was abandoned to the elements for three years and finally climbed by Neil.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

24
Mixed 15m , 2

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