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Description

A mighty face with strong natural lines, high up on the Vic range, directly up behind Red Rocks. Due to low traffic, some climbs can be sandy - bring a brush! But rock quality is generally excellent. Double ropes handy, and there is a rap station (40m) above The Iron Curtain, which services most of the climbs on the main face, or walk down the large gully to the North.

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Walk up past / left of Red Rocks, the track is cairned better in the last section. About 15mins downhill from the crag, and 200m further south, don't miss the fabulous rock pools, which are just downhill from small orange cliff/cave down in the creek (which is easier to see from up near the Far Pavilion).

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Contents

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The chimney.

Start: The large right facing corner left of "Kava Boy"

FA: Lachlan Hick, 2006

2

above "Let Sleeping Buffalo's lie" is an obvious (very) steep crack, which cuts left across a huge roof. There are some bolt runners above the roof. There is also a very handy rap station at the top of the route which is also useful for 'Kava Boy', and "Karenina". Just be careful when stepping down to it!

FA: All Ingvar needs is a willing belayer, a decent day & this will go down for sure!, 2000

3
16 Let the Fun Begin Trad 55m

Wall to L of 'Kava Boy' 1) (16) Climb chimney between slab and wall, past first thrutchy section, then step right onto wall. Up wall, with rock getting better as height is gained, tending right to belay below small corner on near arête. 2) (16) Up corner, step left, then straight up wall to final off width crack, which can be avoided on the right. Descent via main wall walk off via major gully.

FA: Nic Kiraly & Steve Holloway (alt), 2005

4

Ingvar has confirmed the grade. Up the wall left of Kava Boy. Bouldery start from block leads to easier, but sustained moves, not overly bolted, but, safe. Rap anchor on ledge.

FA: Lachlan Hick, 2006

5
18 The Five Year Plan Unknown 50m 2
  1. 20m (18) Start up 'Kava Boy' but where it ducks out right, head straight up the arete via a tricky move. Follow arete for a few more metres, then climb straight up face until you get to a ledge just right of the arete.

  2. 30m (17) From ledge head up face above, trending rightwards, until you hit the diagonal crack heading out of 'Kava Boy' (Propaganda), follow this up to corner. In corner, place high cam then step right and blast up on jugs in an exposed position, then up crack, past little slab, moving right up final slabby headwall.

FA: Chris Snell & Ross Taylor (alt), 2009

6
19 ** Kava Boy Trad 60m 3

Supposed to be very good

Start: Towards the L end of the main wall is a steep right leaning diagonal crack-line leading up to a prominent hanging buttress, right of a major corner capped by a large roof.

  1. 20m (19) 1) 20m (crux) Climb a steep R-leaning diagonal crack, then swing around the arête and up to belay stance on sloping ledge.

  2. 30m (17) Climb straight up the line to the hanging buttress and up the corner on its right side (mind loose rock)

  3. 10m (19) Step left from belay and up bouldery wall to top (poor pro)

FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Burke, 1989

7
22 ** Karenina Trad 60m 3

Neil raved about this one long into the night...

A sustained and direct line straight up the face right of 'Kava Boy'. The second pitch is like an easier version of 'Archimedes Principle'.

  1. 20m (22) 1) 20m 22 – Up left facing flake crack for a few meters and step left (BR) to gain seam crack. Up this crack which turns briefly into a runnel (#3 SLCD) to second BR and reachy move to gain continuation of cracks. Belay at same stance as end of 'Kava Boy' pitch one.

  2. 30m (22) Up 'Kava Boy' for 5m then step right 3m onto the unlikely cracked face. Up this for 8m to horizontal weakness, dogleg right then left (crux) then continue up the amazing wall (between the two corners) to belay on ledge at end of 'Kava Boy' pitch 2. Bring lots of wires for this pitch

  3. -m (12) The 'Scramble off right' for 'Karenina', 'Seiging Babylon' and 'Brave New World' is recommended as roped climbing rather than scrambling as it's very exposed and perhaps grade 12. From this exit point walk off as for all other main wall routes.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2005

8
19 * Propaganda Trad 60m
  1. (15) Climb Far 'Horizon' to bushy ledge, step L onto detached block (scary), traverse L on fantastic holds to base of Kava Boy's upper crack. Up this for a few meters to a semi hanging belay. 2) (19) - Continue up crack, taking L branch, which becomes a steep curving hand crack (crux) to stance on arête. Step back R on great holds and onwards to top. Walk off as for main wall descent down major gully.

FA: Nick Kiraly & Steve Holloway (alt), 2005

9
23 ** Siegeing Babylon Trad 50m

Nice face climbing to gain the central crack. Follow 'Far Horizons' to the 'impending block of doom'. Diagonally left up flakes in middle of wall until holds run out. Move L then up with trepidation to gain horizontal. Easily up central crack to belay on terrace. Roped traverse off R (10m).

FA: Mark Rewi, Steve Holloway & Nicholas Kiraly (a couple of previous attempts succumbed to aid), 2006

10

Takes second corner crack to the right of 'Kava Boy'. As for 'Far Horizons' to belay ledge, continue for a few meters up short clean corner, step left to base of crack. Up corner crack to belay on terrace. Rope scramble off right.

FA: Steve Holloway, Mark Rewi & Nic Kiraly, 2006

11

Just a route. 1) As for Far Horizons. 2) 25m Go directly up wall between Far Horizons and the corner.

FA: Michael Hampton & Martin Tatton (alt), 2005

12
15 * Far Horizons Trad 60m

The easy central section of the main wall, 25m L of Glasnost, offers pleasant climbing. Pro is spaced on the first pitch. 1) 30m The groove system below the major corner is climbed to a belay on the R wall. 2) 30m Traverse R to the obvious cracked arête. Up crack easily to overhang near the top. Up L side of overhang, then step airily R to finish up short corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (alt) & Robert Marshall, 1989

13
21 ** 500 Days Trad 65m 3

An ambitious program to overcome the economic crisis in the Soviet Union by means of transition into market economy. Also relates to how much time we seem to be spending at this amazing crag.

  1. 25m (21) Climb Glasnost past FH (crux) to flake. Up flake for a few moves, place high nut/cam then delicate traverse left across flake to belay at ledge below flakes / corner system.

  2. 20m (19) Climb steep flake corner (bold), over bulge and straight up to semi hanging belay at base of scooped upper wall (right of upper trench/crack of Far Horizons).

  3. 20m (17) Climb middle of scooped slabby wall 3-5m right of 'Far Horizons' tending right, gain RH hand traverse, find hidden holds to escape (up) before arête. Straight up to belay on top.

FA: Steve Holloway (Pitches 1 & 2) Damien Heath (Pitch 3), 2006

14
24 * Glastnost Trad 50m

A solid route in an excellent position on great rock.

  1. 25m Up vertical crack in wall about 15m L of the Cold War. Balance up past BR and up to a flake. Pull up L on to ledge. Climb overhanging wall just R of orange streak (crux) to a belay stance.

  2. 25m Follow crack-line up shallow concave wall (prominent feature). At the top, move R and up to jugs.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood (alt), 1990

15

Up Glasnost for about 10m, then traverse right past FH (has bright red tape on it).

FA: PLEASE LEAVE THIS ALONE UNTIL STEVE FINALLY THROWS IN THE TOWEL (UNLIKELY), 2000

16
23 *** The Cold War Trad 60m 2

Peter Mills and Nic Kiraly raved about this route for almost 2 weeks after repeating it. The words "Awesome", "stunning" and "mindblowing" could be heard repeatedly for the entire night after this ascent. God knows what Steve & Keith's friends had to endure! Needless to say it is sensational and a must do for solid grade 23 leaders, and can be done in one mega-pitch).

  1. 30m Start up the obvious R facing corner in the very centre of the wall (crux), then climb diagonally L up the wall to the start of the arête. Up steeply to stance on L.

  2. 30m, 21. Straight up arête, trending R, then finishing back L at the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1989

17

A great climb but without the purity of 'The Iron Curtain' (even though it shares much of the best climbing).

  1. 25m (23) 1. 25m (23) As for 'The Iron Curtain'.

  2. 30m (24) Continue up shallow corner (crux) to gain diagonal above. Follow this left through overlap with difficulty and up to finish at top of cliff. Gear as for 'Iron Curtain'

FA: Nic Kiraly & Mark Rewi, 2006

18
24 *** The Iron Curtain Trad 52m 2

A brilliant and well-protected climb.

Start: Start as for 'The Cold War'.

  1. 25m (23) Climb corner, then step left onto wall and directly above rock 'fin' to gain crack. Climb this to belay at horizontal break.

  2. 27m (24) Continue up shallow corner (crux) and exit onto wall above. Step right into corner system and follow this up. Beneath the overlap avoid pulling on the loose block; you'll need it to stand on! Gear: Wires, small and medium cams up to 1 camalot. (Note: This took around 5 months of solid attempts to bag the 1st ascent. A very dedicated leader rightly got his glorious prize after much hard work). DBB/Rings

FA: P1 Nicholas Kiraly, Mark Rewi, Josef Goding. P2 Nicholas Kiraly & Mark Rewi 2/06, 2005

19

The line to the right of 'Iron Curtain' has 6 bolts and is a project. Expect grade 26.

20
24 * Sci-fi Lullaby Trad 30m

Climb the initial wall of 'Synthetic Venetian'. At the crack traverse left to the base of the prominent crackline right of 'The Iron Curtain'. Before the crack closes make a rising leftwards traverse (keeping below some loose rock) and then continue straight up slab (crux) and over roof passing 4 bolts to a rap station.

Start: Start as for 'Synthetic Venetian'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman & Aaron Wilson, 2006

21
22 Synthetic Venetian Trad 30m

Start off block in 'crevasse', move up to undercling, step left, up cracked wall with good nuts to bulge. Over bulge, (good nuts #6 in left seam, #4 in right - placed on rappel) to crimpy crux. Move left to flake and onto base of crack. Up excellent crack to closed corner, step right at top of crack, bridge up to good stance and rest. Move right under roof, up on slopers to belay on ledge. Either finish up headwall a variety of lines (all desperate and dirty) or rappel from ledge (rap station to be installed on good rock horns)

Start: Starts on same terraced area as 'Downtime'. Takes right hand crack/corner line on main wall.

FA: Steve Holloway, Mark Rewi & Nic Kiraly, 2005

22
18 Downtime Trad 30m

Up and over flake to first roof/overlap. Over this on good holds to stance, up wall and through R-hand weakness in second roof/overlap, up to belay on terrace or continue up short but tricky headwall with lots of slopers.

Start: Scramble up to blocky terrace at R end of Cold War wall. Takes line around 15-20m right of 'Synthetic Venetian' through series of overlaps at far R end of terrace.

FA: Steve Holloway, Geoff Gledhill & Nic Kiraly, 2005

Right side

The following routes are on the far RH side, past the main wall.

23

The first line R of the R descent gully angles slightly to the R.

  1. 30m Go up the wall to the crack, and curves up L to the main line. Follow this to a ledge on the L before a flaky section.

  2. 20m Continue up line on suspect rock and then more easily

FA: Mike Stone & Chris Baxter (alt), 1984

24

A minor addition. Quaint climbing up the arête R of (Baxter’s route and other crack). Just enough gear down low.

FA: Mark Rewi, Steve Holloway & Nic Kiraly, 2005

25
24 ** Far Queue Sport 25m

Unknown location.

FA: Lachlan Hick, 2006

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