Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

Visited a few times in the early 90s, then ignored for over a decade. In 2005 the new brigade added over thirty new climbs. This massive north facing cliff is very pleasant on sunny winter days. The best climbing is in the mid grades, but its full potential is yet to be realised. The cliff is very user friendly with good reliable natural protection and there are lower off anchors at the end of many climbs. All bolting has been done at current best practice.

There are a number of project climbs listed which are probably the original stubs and climbs with the actual names have come across from ACA. I could guess most of them but will let someone who knows sort it out.

© (jgara)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Drive north along the Waterworks Track from the gate at Glenelg River Road for 5.4km to the carpark at the northern end (1km past the Slander Gully/Curiosity Crag turn off on Waterworks Track). The back of the top of 'The Flatiron' is visible from the Waterworks Track, roughly straight ahead, as you drive to the carpark.

Walk across the creek at the weir and head north up the right hand side of the grassy/rocky gully following tape and rock cairns. Part way up the big hill the track heads left across the gully then heads steeply up the hill again, following the tape

and cairns to the old 4WD track along the ridgetop. Turn right uphill (heading east) along the old 4WD track for about 100 metres to the cairns that mark the end of the track. From the end of this old vehicular track you can see the top of the back of 'The Flatiron', ahead and slightly to your left. Now veer left past cairns and tape, roughly following the contour into a steep gully. Cross the gully and then head steeply up the hill following the rough track and cairns. At the top of the hill, follow cairns and tape around and gently down to the base of the cliff, on the north side of this spur.

Walking time is approximately 30 to 35 minutes.

© (jgara)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The amazing LH rising traverse starting at ground level 15m from the start of the cliff and finishing at the DBB above Extreme Ironing! Take all of your cams, and some of your mate's! It is yet to receive a continuous ascent. The grade of pitch 2 is the subject of some debate in the range of 20-22.

Start: Starts at ground level 15m along from the start of the cliff

  1. 20m (21) Climb the well protected rising diagonal crack /ledge system awkwardly to the DBB above Black Iron.

  2. 24m (21) Traverse left along break to 'Incarceration' DBB. Eats cams up to #3.

  3. 6m (14) Keep traversing left across from 'Incarceration' to the DBB of Extreme Ironing!

FA: Pitch 3 Steve Chapman & Rob Booth, 2005

FA: Pitch 2 Will Monks & Kevin Lindorff, 2005

FA: Will Monks & Kevin Lindorff, 2005

Right facing hand crack. 15m left of Iron Awe. Up right hand crack, then traverse left to DBB lower off.

FA: Steve Chapman & Rob Booth

nice climbing At the black streak left of Iron Awe. Power up the black streak to the DBB.

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman

Up right leaning crack system over the technical bulge and up to the break. Traverse to the DBB above Black Iron

Start: 5m left of Black Iron

FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman & Tuesday Phelan

Sustained and technical climbing on Arapiles type rock. Starts 3m left of Iron Lady.

Climb the creases past a FH to the DBB. Take small and medium wires and small cams.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

Follows the major line of the cliff. Originally led in one long pitch. The second pitch has three or four aids (No.1 and 2RPs) to a big bucket, and then sustained free climbing to the top.

There is a DBB at the end of the first pitch.

Start: 12m left of Permanently creased.

  1. 16m (23) Straight up the lovely orange corner on perfect 'Grampians' rock. There is a DBB at the end of the first pitch.

  2. 29m (- M2) The second pitch has three or four aids (No.1 and 2RPs) to a big bucket, and then sustained free climbing to the top.

FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes, Steve Wilson; Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1993

Since Michael O’Reilly snapped the crux hold off, this route is one or two grades harder.

Start 4m left of Incarceration at the yellow streak. Climb the easy flake and clip the bolt. Rock up with difficulty, using the small gaston, and climb up to the fingerlocks and technical layback. Go into the nice jams and up to the jugs. Finish easily up the wide trench to the DBB.

FA: Steve Chapman & Rob Booth

Climb this sandy crack system directly to the horizontal undercling and fingertip layback of Ironside (crux). Finish as for 'Iron Side'

to the DBB.

Start: At cracks 3m left of Extreme Ironing!

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

Just keeps getting harder.

Starts 4m left of Extreme Ironing! After the easy start, climb the weakness & crack system on the left of the arête to the mantle and stance just before clipping the bolt. Don’t pump out too much holding the horizontal undercling before stepping right to position yourself for the fingertip layback (crux). Finish up to the DBB as for Extreme Ironing!

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth & Kaz Anwin, 2005

The original climb on the cliff. Starts just left of Iron Side. Climb the major hand crack and corner above the ledge, belay below the ledge. Walk to the lower tree at the edge of the cliff and rap.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Treby, Peter Allan & Kieran Sell, 1986

Starting off a rock cairn up and left to finish at sling above 'Iron Filings'.

Start: 20m left of New Wave Old Hat, start at the right hand crack.

FA: Jevon Hardware & Maria Lastra, 2005

20m left of New Wave Old Hat, start at the right hand crack. Starting off a rock cairn up and left to finish at sling above Iron Filings.

Good old style climbing. Middle of the three cracks, just left of Pet Willow. Climb up to sling lower off.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steven Wilson, 2005

Nice climb for gym bunnies. At the left corner crack. Up the left corner crack. Then carefully step right at blocky section. Then up to lower off as for Iron Filings.

FA: Steven Wilson & Robin Holmes, 2005

3m left of Angle Iron at the toe of the buttress.

P1 (16m, 20) Head up right edge of grey buttress. At steepening step right to follow thin crack through bulge. Up left then carefully up through finger like rocks to belay on ledge (bolt + wire). P2 (12m, 22) Small wires/RP’s to get started. Blast up strenuous crack with bomber gear. Hanging belay on left (large wires). Descent: Either scramble/slide down wide sloping ledge to the rap anchor for New Wave Old Hat, or top out and walk off the back of the cliff to descend down the western end of cliff.

FA: Robin Holmes, Steven Wilson & Tuesday Phelan (Pitch 1 only), 2005

May have been climbed by Glen Tempest and party but not recorded. Start 9m left of Angle Iron and 2 m right of Jaffle Iron. Up wide juggy crack with quite a hard start. Use rap anchors above Iron Lung.

FA: Robin Holmes Tuesday Phelan, 2005

Better than it looks. The corner 2 m left of Robbed. Up corner 2m left of Robbed, over bulge and left onto ledge. Walk left to rap point above Iron Lung.

FA: Rob Booth, Ross Timms & Tuesday Phelan, 2005

The corner with a steep start, 7m left of 'Jaffle Iron'. The grade allows for fiddly protection through the crux. The blank section

at 4m is avoided by moving left, then rejoining the line, to a ledge at 8m. Traverse left 5m to finish up 'The Weight'. A better finish would be directly up over the improbable orange bulges from the middle of the traverse. Rap anchors above 'Iron Lung'.

Start: 7m left of 'Jaffle Iron'

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Will Monks, 2005

There is a corner becoming three rounded cracks. Climb the right wall of corner, following the right crack to terrace. Rap anchors above 'Iron Lung'.

Start: 4m left of 'Iron Age'.

FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1991

Crack climbing on lovely orange rock. Start as for The Weight (4m left of Iron Age)

Climb the easy orange corner to the middle crack and directly up to the top and rap anchors.

FA: Rob Booth & Ross Timms, 2005

Up 'Iron Lung' for approximately 6m and left below bulge and

up the left hand crack.

Start: As for 'Iron Lung'.

FA: Steven Wilson & Tuesday Phelan, 2005

Climb the technical crack till it ends. Clip the fixed hanger and climb up and diagonally right on spaced holds to finish up 'Irony'.

Start: 2m left of 'Iron Lung'.

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly & Rob Booth, 2005

Start: 4m left of 'Rust Never Sleeps'. Climb the flake, step right and then motor up the grey streak leftwards through the bulges.

FA: FTRA Glenn Tempest, 1992

Start: Starts either at the weakness and flake, or at the dogleg crack 4m left of the weakness, below the large grey corner.

  1. 35m (16) Climb the weakness, or the dogleg crack, and head up to the large grey corner. Climb the corner and move right to belay beneath the chimney.

  2. 35m (12) Climb the classic chimney up to the ledge, past a large chockstone and crack. A final scramble through the rear of the cave leads to the top of the cliff. Walk off the back of the cliff to descend down the western end of cliff.

FA: Robin Holmes

FA: Pitch 2: Alastair Hudson, Mark Gould & Laura Gould

FA: Pitch 1: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2005

Up weakness and crack; step left through smooth section, back right to line and up. Scramble off and descend carefully to the left.

Start: 10m left of 'Against The Tide'.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2006

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

Climbs the weakness through the roof and prow at the highest part of the wall, above and to the right of 'Against The Tide'.

Start: 'Access' the start by climbing 'Against The Tide' (16) and

moving right along the sloping ledge/chimney to belay at the

lowest point.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2006

The righthand roof crack. Established onsight.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Gerry Narcowicz, 2010

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Flatiron.