Visited a few times in the early 90s, then ignored for over a decade. In 2005 the new brigade added over thirty new climbs. This massive north facing cliff is very pleasant on sunny winter days. The best climbing is in the mid grades, but its full potential is yet to be realised. The cliff is very user friendly with good reliable natural protection and there are lower off anchors at the end of many climbs. All bolting has been done at current best practice.
There are a number of project climbs listed which are probably the original stubs and climbs with the actual names have come across from ACA. I could guess most of them but will let someone who knows sort it out.© (jgara)
The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.
Drive north along the Waterworks Track from the gate at Glenelg River Road for 5.4km to the carpark at the northern end (1km past the Slander Gully/Curiosity Crag turn off on Waterworks Track). The back of the top of 'The Flatiron' is visible from the Waterworks Track, roughly straight ahead, as you drive to the carpark.
Walk across the creek at the weir and head north up the right hand side of the grassy/rocky gully following tape and rock cairns. Part way up the big hill the track heads left across the gully then heads steeply up the hill again, following the tape
and cairns to the old 4WD track along the ridgetop. Turn right uphill (heading east) along the old 4WD track for about 100 metres to the cairns that mark the end of the track. From the end of this old vehicular track you can see the top of the back of 'The Flatiron', ahead and slightly to your left. Now veer left past cairns and tape, roughly following the contour into a steep gully. Cross the gully and then head steeply up the hill following the rough track and cairns. At the top of the hill, follow cairns and tape around and gently down to the base of the cliff, on the north side of this spur.
Walking time is approximately 30 to 35 minutes.© (jgara)
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