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Description

Visited a few times in the early 90s, then ignored for over a decade. In 2005 the new brigade added over thirty new climbs. This massive north facing cliff is very pleasant on sunny winter days. The best climbing is in the mid grades, but its full potential is yet to be realised. The cliff is very user friendly with good reliable natural protection and there are lower off anchors at the end of many climbs. All bolting has been done at current best practice.

© (jgara)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Drive north along the Waterworks Track from the gate at Glenelg River Road for 5.4km to the carpark at the northern end (1km past the Slander Gully/Curiosity Crag turn off on Waterworks Track). The back of the top of 'The Flatiron' is visible from the Waterworks Track, roughly straight ahead, as you drive to the carpark.

Walk across the creek at the weir and head north up the right hand side of the grassy/rocky gully following tape and rock cairns. Part way up the big hill the track heads left across the gully then heads steeply up the hill again, following the tape

and cairns to the old 4WD track along the ridgetop. Turn right uphill (heading east) along the old 4WD track for about 100 metres to the cairns that mark the end of the track. From the end of this old vehicular track you can see the top of the back of 'The Flatiron', ahead and slightly to your left. Now veer left past cairns and tape, roughly following the contour into a steep gully. Cross the gully and then head steeply up the hill following the rough track and cairns. At the top of the hill, follow cairns and tape around and gently down to the base of the cliff, on the north side of this spur.

Walking time is approximately 30 to 35 minutes.

© (jgara)

Tags

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 * Iron Awe Trad 25m

The amazing LH rising traverse starting at ground level 15m from the start of the cliff and finishing at the DBB above Extreme Ironing! Take all of your cams, and some of your mate's! It is yet to receive a continuous ascent. The grade of pitch 2 is the subject of some debate in the range of 20-22.

Start: Starts at ground level 15m along from the start of the cliff

  1. 20m (21) Climb the well protected rising diagonal crack /ledge system awkwardly to the DBB above Black Iron.

  2. 24m (21) Traverse left along break to 'Incarceration' DBB. Eats cams up to #3.

  3. 6m (14) Keep traversing left across from 'Incarceration' to the DBB of Extreme Ironing!

FA: Pitch 3 Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, 2005

FA: Pitch 2 Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff, 2005

FA: Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff, 2005

2
23 Swarf Trad 9m

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth

3
20 Black Iron Trad 8m

FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman

4
19 Iron Lady Trad 12m

Up right leaning crack system over the technical bulge and up to the break. Traverse to the DBB above Black Iron

Start: 5m left of Black Iron

FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman, Tuesday Phelan

5
Project - Rob Trad 15m
6
R R Project Trad 12m

At the back of this pinnacle there is an unfinished bolted

project (3 FHs).

Do not climb this route as it still needs more bolts.

7
23 ** Incarceration Trad 45m

Follows the major line of the cliff. Originally led in one long pitch. The second pitch has three or four aids (No.1 and 2RPs) to a big bucket, and then sustained free climbing to the top.

There is a DBB at the end of the first pitch.

Start: 12m left of Permanently creased.

  1. 16m (23) Straight up the lovely orange corner on perfect 'Grampians' rock. There is a DBB at the end of the first pitch.

  2. 29m (- M2) The second pitch has three or four aids (No.1 and 2RPs) to a big bucket, and then sustained free climbing to the top.

FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes, Steve Wilson; Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1993

8
25 * Extreme Ironing Trad 15m

Since Michael O'Reilly snapped the crux hold off, this route is one or two grades harder.

Start: 4m left of 'Incarceration' at the yellow streak.

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth

9
23 Sand Iron Trad 15m

Climb this sandy crack system directly to the horizontal undercling and fingertip layback of Ironside (crux). Finish as for 'Iron Side'

to the DBB.

Start: At cracks 3m left of Extreme Ironing!

FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman, 2005

10
23 ** Iron Side Trad 18m

Just keeps getting harder.

Start: Starts 4m left of Extreme Ironing!

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, Kaz Anwin, 2005

11
13 New Wave, Old Hat Trad 20m
12
15 Pet Willow Iron Trad 15m
13
19 * Iron Filings Trad 15m

Good old style climbing.

Start: Middle of the three cracks, just left of 'Pet Willow'.

FA: Robin Holmes, Steven Wilson, 2005

14
20 Angle Iron Trad 15m

Nice climb for gym bunnies.

Start: At the left corner crack.

FA: Steven Wilson, Robin Holmes, 2005

15
22 * Pumping Iron Trad 28m
16
16 * Jaffle Iron Trad 15m

Better than it looks.

Start: The corner 2 m left of 'Robbed'.

FA: Rob Booth, Ross Timms, Tuesday Phelan, 2005

18
22 Iron Age Trad 15m

The corner with a steep start, 7m left of 'Jaffle Iron'. The grade allows for fiddly protection through the crux. The blank section

at 4m is avoided by moving left, then rejoining the line, to a ledge at 8m. Traverse left 5m to finish up 'The Weight'. A better finish would be directly up over the improbable orange bulges from the middle of the traverse. Rap anchors above 'Iron Lung'.

Start: 7m left of 'Jaffle Iron'

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Will Monks, 2005

19
15 Ironear Trad 15m
20
19 * Iron Lung Trad 15m

Crack climbing on lovely orange rock.

Start: As for 'The Weight' (4m left of Iron Age)

FA: Rob Booth, Ross Timms, 2005

21
20 * Irony Trad 15m

Up 'Iron Lung' for approximately 6m and left below bulge and

up the left hand crack.

Start: As for 'Iron Lung'.

FA: Steven Wilson, Tuesday Phelan, 2005

22
23
15 Permanent Press Trad 12m
25
26 HB Roof Trad 50m
26
25 Rob project Trad 50m
27
15 Big chimney Trad 50m
28
21 Mike's face Trad 25m
29
17 Jono's face Trad 25m
30
23 Neil's Project Trad 17m
32

Up weakness and crack; step left through smooth section, back right to line and up. Scramble off and descend carefully to the left.

Start: 10m left of 'Against The Tide'.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2006

33
25 * Iron Will Unknown 20m

The righthand roof crack. Established onsight.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Gerry Narcowicz, 2010

34
20 * Summit Fever Trad 25m

Excellent steep climbing on quality rock on left hand pinnacle.

Start: 6m left of the arete.

FA: Jono Schmidt, James Pfrunder, 2005

35
27 *** Body Attack Unknown 30m

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

36
12 Beyond Gravity Trad 40m

Up wall, passing the left hand end of the orange overhang at half height.

Start: Start about 50m left and around the corner from 'Lost in Deep Space' halfway up the large sloping terrace.

FA: James McIntosh, Glen Donohue, 2005

37

A cheeky climb with pushy right-wing tendencies. Balancy, but well protected.

Start: At the first weakness.

FA: Michael Hampton, Edwin Young, 1991

38
18 * Rump Ranger Trad 25m

A really tasty excursion up a wall of buckets n' bums.

Start: Climb the second weakness 4m left of 'The Bottom Inspectors'.

FA: Edwin Young, Michael Hampton, 1991

39

Sustained and technical climbing on 'Arapiles' type rock.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Iron Lady'.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Rob Booth, Steve Chapman, 2005

40
14 Lost in Deep Space Trad 20m

Steeply up corner to overhang. Step right then back left to large sloping ledge. Move left along ledge to shallow right leading diagonal cracks and up.

Start: Start about 30m north of saddle at orange left facing corner. Cairned.

FA: Glen Donohue, James McIntosh, 2005

41
15 Pet Willow Trad 15m

Starting off a rock cairn up and left to finish at sling above 'Iron Filings'.

Start: 20m left of New Wave Old Hat, start at the right hand crack.

FA: Jevon Hardware, Maria Lastra, 2005

42
16 * The Weight Trad 18m

There is a corner becoming three rounded cracks. Climb the right wall of corner, following the right crack to terrace. Rap anchors above 'Iron Lung'.

Start: 4m left of 'Iron Age'.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Woodfield, 1991

43
12 Robbed Trad 16m

May have been climbed by Glen Tempest and party but not

recorded.

Start: 9m left of 'Angle Iron' and 2 m right of 'Jaffle Iron'.

FA: Robin Holmes Tuesday Phelan, 2005

44
16 Against The Tide Trad 70m

Start: Starts either at the weakness and flake, or at the dogleg crack 4m left of the weakness, below the large grey corner.

  1. 35m (16) Climb the weakness, or the dogleg crack, and head up to the large grey corner. Climb the corner and move right to belay beneath the chimney.

  2. 35m (12) Climb the classic chimney up to the ledge, past a large chockstone and crack. A final scramble through the rear of the cave leads to the top of the cliff. Walk off the back of the cliff to descend down the western end of cliff.

FA: Robin Holmes

FA: Pitch 2: Alastair Hudson, Mark Gould, Laura Gould,

FA: Pitch 1: Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman, 2005

45

Climbs the weakness through the roof and prow at the highest part of the wall, above and to the right of 'Against The Tide'.

Start: 'Access' the start by climbing 'Against The Tide' (16) and

moving right along the sloping ledge/chimney to belay at the

lowest point.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert, 2006

46
25 Turkish Bath Trad 25m

Climb the flake, step right and then motor up the grey streak leftwards through the bulges.

Start: 4m left of 'Rust Never Sleeps'.

FA: FTRA Glenn Tempest, 1992

47
22 * Rust Never Sleeps Trad 18m

Climb the technical crack till it ends. Clip the fixed hanger and climb up and diagonally right on spaced holds to finish up 'Irony'.

Start: 2m left of 'Iron Lung'.

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly, Rob Booth, 2005

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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