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Description

Steep and south-facing.

Climbs are described right-to=left.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

On the 'Victoria Range' Road 1.15 kilometres north of the Fortress turn-off. There is a vague saddle between the first and second rock outcrops above the road. Head up to this saddle then follow the cliff, which is on your right, down and around to a large corner-line on the left side of an arete.

© (kieranl)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

The arete to a ledge on top of a triangular roof, then diagonally right through the next two roof, finishing up the wall above thr right side of the last roof.

Start: Start at the arete 2 metres right of the big corner.

FA: Graeme Smith, Glenn Donohue, Wayne Maher, 1995

2
13 Big Brown Bag Trad 25m

The prominent corner 2 metres left of WGTGOOTW. Corner then overhang to ledge then large, juggy corner.

FA: Glenn Donohue, Graeme Smith, Wayne Maher, 1995

3
19 Rosebud Smile Trad 25m

Up and onto a small prow, the V-groove and wall above to ledge. Straight up excelent rock.

Start: Start at the right side of a bulge at the start of this section of wall.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glenn Donohue, Graeme Smith, 1995

4
23 The End Of Silence Trad 12m

Start: Start 3 metres right of Dressed To Kill.

FA: Nick Ping, Glen Donohue, 2000

5
18 Dressed Up To Kill Trad 12m

Below a vague line higher up, 3 metres right of the left end of this section of cliff, before the scrub comes in again. Go straight up.

FA: Wayne Maher, Graeme Smith, Glenn Donohue, 1995

6
17 The Hole Trad 12m

Up the face until forced into corner. Step up then back right and up.

Start: Start 4 metres left of Dreseed Up to Kill at the hole in the wall on the right side of the recess.

FA: Glenn Donohue, Wayne Maher, Graeme Smith, 1995

7
17 Axis Sally Trad 18m

Up the right side of the shield to horizontals near the top. Traveres left to the arete and up.

Start: Start 18 metres right of the left end of the cliff. There is a shield formation forming a flake-line on each of its sides.

FA: Glenn Donohue, Wayne Maher, 1995

8

Up the left side of the shield then straight up to the top.

Start: Start at the shield as for 'Axis Sally'.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glenn Donohue, 1995