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Description

Steep and south-facing.

Climbs are described right-to=left.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

On the 'Victoria Range' Road 1.15 kilometres north of the Fortress turn-off. There is a vague saddle between the first and second rock outcrops above the road. Head up to this saddle then follow the cliff, which is on your right, down and around to a large corner-line on the left side of an arete.

© (kieranl)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The arete to a ledge on top of a triangular roof, then diagonally right through the next two roof, finishing up the wall above thr right side of the last roof.

Start: Start at the arete 2 metres right of the big corner.

FA: Graeme Smith, Glenn Donohue, Wayne Maher, 1995

2
13 Big Brown Bag Trad 25m

The prominent corner 2 metres left of WGTGOOTW. Corner then overhang to ledge then large, juggy corner.

FA: Glenn Donohue, Graeme Smith, Wayne Maher, 1995

3
19 Rosebud Smile Trad 25m

Up and onto a small prow, the V-groove and wall above to ledge. Straight up excelent rock.

Start: Start at the right side of a bulge at the start of this section of wall.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glenn Donohue, Graeme Smith, 1995

4
23 The End Of Silence Trad 12m

Start: Start 3 metres right of Dressed To Kill.

FA: Nick Ping, Glen Donohue, 2000

5
18 Dressed Up To Kill Trad 12m

Below a vague line higher up, 3 metres right of the left end of this section of cliff, before the scrub comes in again. Go straight up.

FA: Wayne Maher, Graeme Smith, Glenn Donohue, 1995

6
17 The Hole Trad 12m

Up the face until forced into corner. Step up then back right and up.

Start: Start 4 metres left of Dreseed Up to Kill at the hole in the wall on the right side of the recess.

FA: Glenn Donohue, Wayne Maher, Graeme Smith, 1995

7
17 Axis Sally Trad 18m

Up the right side of the shield to horizontals near the top. Traveres left to the arete and up.

Start: Start 18 metres right of the left end of the cliff. There is a shield formation forming a flake-line on each of its sides.

FA: Glenn Donohue, Wayne Maher, 1995

8

Up the left side of the shield then straight up to the top.

Start: Start at the shield as for 'Axis Sally'.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glenn Donohue, 1995