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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Ethic inherited from The Fortress

Avoid bolts.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Wall of Large Knobs

Sixty metres beyond the right end of the main Eastern camping ave and past a beautiful smooth overhanging grey wall is a recess in the cliff-line.

1
12 Zanzibar Trad 46m

The Wall of large knobs has a smooth grey central section; star directly below this. Up to and tending left across the smooth section and then back right to pull through roof at 30m, then up.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1993

2
16 Cailaf Trad 37m

Start 35 metres right of wall of large knobs at right-leaning orange-edged flake-line. Up flake, or slab immediately right, to roof. Pull through roof immediately above flake and then on up past wedged block.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1993

3

20 metres right of Cailaf is a grey arete with dull orange streaks in upper wall. Start 2 metres left of arete and go up to rooflet at 30m. Swing right on excellent holds around the arete and up.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1993

4

A roof and grey wall left of 'Fragile Feelings'. ? starts at the arete 2 metres right of Woodstock leftovers.

  1. 20m (15) Up the grey wall just left of the roof. Traverse right above the lip of the roof to belay below the smaller roof.

  2. 30m (15) Up to the roof and heel-hook right. Jugs follow.

FA: Neil Barr & Alan Hope (alt), 1983

5
21 M0 * Fragile Feelings Aid 50m 2

Used to be marred by loose blocks leading to the roof but these have apparently been cleaned up a bit by a subsequent ascent. The rest point really should go.

Start: A steep wall with a flake-line in the centre.

  1. 20m (-) Up the wall to the flake system and easily to good belay.

  2. 30m (21 M0) Continue up the flake (loose rock) to the roof. Traverse 3 metres left to weakness in overhang, resting on a runner near the end of the traverse. Pull through the overhang and finish up the wall.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran (alt), 1983

6
9 The Swages Of Sin Trad 40m 2

Not sure where this is in relation to Spanish Bombs.

  1. 30m (9) Stepped corner which bounds righthand side of 'Fragile Feelings' wall to big ledge.

  2. 7m (9) Cross slot to juggy right wall then up.

FA: Gordon Bedfor, Nick Tapp (alt) & Rick Wood, 1992

7
16 Spanish Bombs Trad 30m

Right-facing corner 10 metres right of 'Fragile Feelings'. Up to top of corner, step right and up.

FA: Mark Poustie & Campbell Mercer, 1993

8
10 Seven-Year Itch Trad 40m

Not clear how this relates to the other climbs hereabouts. Start 40 metres right of The Swages Of Sin at a small wall. Up line 2 metres left of corner at right and join corner above vegetation. Up to ledge then up on jugs.

FA: Nick Tapp, Gordon Bedford, David Lyons & Rick Wood, 1992

9

Directly up wall 2 metres left of Igreiga to the scoop on the right of the large triangular roof. Pull through roof on good holds, move left and up.

FA: Mark Poustie & Campbell Mercer, 1994

10
17 Igreiga Trad 33m

50 metres right of 'Spanish Bombs' is smooth grey wall and maybe a large gum growing against the cliff. If the tree is still there, that's where you start. Up, tending right near the top before pulling through the roof.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1993

11

5 metres right of 'Igreiga', 1 metre left of wide corner. Up crack, continue up side of huge hollow flake and then wall above.

FA: Mark Poustie & Campbell Mercer, 1993

40 metres to the right is small orange wall with e descent gull on it's right side.

12
13 Jaundiced Blues Trad 22m

The crack 2 metres left of right end of small orange wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1994

Activity

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