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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Don't Breakdown Trad 38m
2
16 Vertical Reality Trad 42m
3
21 M0 * Fragile Feelings Aid 50m 2

Used to be merred by loose blocks leading to the roof but these have apparently been cleaned up a bit by a subsequent ascent. The rest point really should go.

Start: A steep wall with a flake-line in the centre.

  1. 20m (-) Up the wall to the falke system and easily to good belay.

  2. 30m (21 M0) Continue up the flake (loose rock) to the roof. Traverse 3 metres left to weakness in overhang, resting on a runner near the end of the traverse. Pull through the overhang and finish up the wall.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran (alt), 1983

4
9 The Swages Of Sin Trad 40m 2
  1. 30m (9) Stepped corner which bounds righthand side of 'Fragile Feelings' wall to big ledge.

  2. 7m (9) Cross slot to juggy right wall then up.

FA: Gordon Bedfor, Nick Tapp (alt) & Rick Wood, 1992

5
10 Seven-Year Itch Trad 40m

Not clear how this relates to the other climbs hereabouts.

Start: Start 40 metres right of 'The Swages Of Sin' at a small wall.

FA: Nick Tapp, Gordon Bedford, David Lyons & Rick Wood, 1992

6

A roof and grey wall left of 'Fragile Feelings'. ? starts at the arete 2 metres right of Woodstock leftovers.

  1. 20m (15) Up the grey wall just left of the roof. Traverse right above the lip of the roof to belay below the smaller roof.

  2. 30m (15) Up to the roof and heel-hook right. Jugs follow.

FA: Neil Barr & Alan Hope (alt), 1983

7
18 Phantom Trad 70m 3

Travels through some pretty unfriendly country.

Start: Start at obvious corner system 12 metres left og "Ghost Ships"

  1. 25m (18) Up the large corner to the roof. Step right and up to next roof then step right again and up to next roof. Step right to cramped stance.

  2. 15m (18) Up right past the next roof and then traverse back left for 7 metres to good stance.

  3. 30m (-) Up easily

FA: Matt walsh & Campbell Mercer (alt), 1994

8
17 Ghost Ships Trad 53m

Righthand crack leading to roof.

9
9 Roaring Forties Trad 55m

Crack and chimney leading to righthand end of roof system.

10
15 Zephyr Trad 55m

Start at crack 10 metres right of 'Roaring Forties'

11
14 Sidewinder Trad 48m

Start 10 metres right of cleft.

12

Start 15 metres right of 'Sidewinder'. Among the worst of the worst.