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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
17 Don't Breakdown Trad 38m
2
16 Vertical Reality Trad 42m
3
21 M0 * Fragile Feelings Aid 50m

Used to be merred by loose blocks leading to the roof but these have apparently been cleaned up a bit by a subsequent ascent. The rest point really should go.

Start: A steep wall with a flake-line in the centre.

  1. 20m (-) Up the wall to the falke system and easily to good belay.

  2. 30m (21 M0) Continue up the flake (loose rock) to the roof. Traverse 3 metres left to weakness in overhang, resting on a runner near the end of the traverse. Pull through the overhang and finish up the wall.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (alt), 1983

4
9 The Swages Of Sin Trad 40m
  1. 30m (9) Stepped corner which bounds righthand side of 'Fragile Feelings' wall to big ledge.

  2. 7m (9) Cross slot to juggy right wall then up.

FA: Gordon Bedfor, Nick Tapp (alt), Rick Wood, 1992

5
10 Seven-Year Itch Trad 40m

Not clear how this relates to the other climbs hereabouts.

Start: Start 40 metres right of 'The Swages Of Sin' at a small wall.

FA: Nick Tapp, Gordon Bedford, David Lyons, Rick Wood, 1992

6

A roof and grey wall left of 'Fragile Feelings'. ? starts at the arete 2 metres right of Woodstock leftovers.

  1. 20m (15) Up the grey wall just left of the roof. Traverse right above the lip of the roof to belay below the smaller roof.

  2. 30m (15) Up to the roof and heel-hook right. Jugs follow.

FA: Neil Barr, Alan Hope (alt), 1983

7
18 Phantom Trad 70m

Travels through some pretty unfriendly country.

Start: Start at obvious corner system 12 metres left og "Ghost Ships"

  1. 25m (18) Up the large corner to the roof. Step right and up to next roof then step right again and up to next roof. Step right to cramped stance.

  2. 15m (18) Up right past the next roof and then traverse back left for 7 metres to good stance.

  3. 30m (-) Up easily

FA: Matt walsh, Campbell Mercer (alt), 1994

8
17 Ghost Ships Trad 53m

Righthand crack leading to roof.

9
9 Roaring Forties Trad 55m

Crack and chimney leading to righthand end of roof system.

10
15 Zephyr Trad 55m

Start at crack 10 metres right of 'Roaring Forties'

11
14 Sidewinder Trad 48m

Start 10 metres right of cleft.

12

Start 15 metres right of 'Sidewinder'. Among the worst of the worst.