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Easier trad climbing in a remote, beautiful location.

The climbing is mostly easy with one or two superb natural lines but be wary of huge, fragile jugs on some sections. On the right side of the cliff is a smaller wall of superb rock with a few harder climbs.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Ethic inherited from The Fortress

Avoid bolts.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The right arete of the buttress with a very exposed second pitch.

Start: At the left hand end of the cliff below the right arete of a large buttress with a huge triangular roof high up. Start in a cave under a leaning block.

  1. 24m (9) Up short wide crack and move right over block to arete. Up, bypassing roof via right wall. Traverse left above roof onto front of buttress to belay stance at continuation of original crack.

  2. 44m (9) Climb initial overhang at crack then up wall trending left until angle eases. Now follow arete right and up to the Visor (run-out). Staright up headwall above visor to poor ti-tree anchors at top.

FA: Tony Brotherton & Peter Watling, 1995

The left arete of the wall immediately left of Wizard Of Id rears up as a steep curving blade of rock. Grade not given in original description.

  1. 35m (-) Easy angled arete becomes steeper at 15 metres. Continue through several bulges to a really nice belay.

  2. 44m (-) Crux. Up just right of the edge. Where it bulges out left, climb straight up the bulging wall to the top keeping 2-3 metres from the edge.

FA: Peter Watling & Tony Brotherton (alt), 1995

A pleasant climb up the corner to the left of the great blank wall.

  1. 35m (9) Climb the corner and belay somewhere.

  2. 30m (9) Continue up the corner to a ledge beneath a steep wall.

  3. 15m (9) Take the left-hand crack to the top.

FA: Alan & Geoff Gledhill (alt), 1971

Another big arete. Start as for 'The Wizard Of Id'.

  1. 35m (-) Crux. Up 'The Wizard Of Id' for a few metres then the thin crack up the vertical arete on the right. Belay on a tiny stance on the left at the top of the crack, 3 metres below a roof on the arete.

  2. 19m (-) Continue up past the roof. About 3 metres above the roof, a horizontal dyke forms an overlap with a foot-ledge above it. Pull onto the ledge and traverse right to the arete. Up easily to belay stance.

  3. 25m (-) Easily up.

FA: Peter Watling & Tony Brotherton (alt), 1995

A great climb up a huge corner leads to a fragile finish.

Start: Start below the huge corner marking the right side of an impressive blank wall.

  1. 50m (7) Climb the huge corner until the rope runs out.

  2. 40m (-) Continue up the line until it runs out and finish up the juggy wall.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Alan Gledhill (alt) & Ben Sandilands, 1971

A pleasant first pitch.

Start: Start in the corner 10 metres right of 'Black Knight'.

  1. 33m (12) Climb the corner for 20 metres and then traverse 2 metres right and up into the chimney line. Continue to a belay.

  2. 40m (-) Continue up the line for 20 metres and then step right into a broken chimney which is climbed to a steep, juggy wall. Belay with care.

  3. 27m (12) Continue up the steep wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Michael Stone, 1971

Easy climbing on good rock in the depths of a massive formation.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Bastion' where two huge, juggy walls join to form a wide open-book formation. Scramble up to the line.

  1. 45m (6) Move into the deep, hidden chimney and bridge up. Move right at 45 metres to a stance.

  2. 45m (6) Up the line above the stance. Traverse left at 23 metres to another line that leads to a large ledge.

  3. 10m (6) On up the line.

FA: Peter Watling & Keith Lockwood (alt), 1981

The corner and wall 5 metres left of the major corner.

FA: Peter Campbell & John Taylor. Easter., 1984

A climb of quality. Take the major corner. Move right when below the roof and continue up the wall.

FA: Geoff & Alan Gledhill, 1971

Climb the line right of 'Lioness' past a block and then traverse left into 'Lioness'.

FA: Peter Campbell, John Taylor & Helen Godfrey. Easter., 1984

Go 3 metres up the flake and step right. Climb the wall, mostly just left of the arete until the bulge. Take this via the main crack.

Start: Start 15 metres right of 'Lioness' at a flake-corner.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1983

Start: Start 5 metres right of Mr Piggy's Train Ride.

  1. 15m (20) Up groove, moving left at 8 metres to the next crack. Continue to a poor stance below the bulge.

  2. 35m (20) Up the wall, trending right, easing dramatically after first 5 metres.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kieran Loughran, 1984

Wideish diagonal crack 10 metres right of 'Biggles Pulls It Off'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watling & John Taylor, 1981

Below the left end of Black Knight Buttress is a short steep orange wall.. Locate the big triangular roof of Chain Mail then head staright downhill for 30 metres. The wall will be on the right, facing north

Steep, well-protected, delightful climbing up wall.

Start: Start 2 metres right of the left-hand end of the wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer & mark Poustie, 1994

Up flake 5 metres right of "Atom Ant" and then wall above.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1994

Black streak 3 metres right of "Reckless"

FA: Mark Poustie & Campbell Mercer, 1994

In the middle of the wall is a dark chimney. Up 2 metres right of the chimney.

FA: Matt walsh & Campbell Mercer, 1994

Thin series of diagonal cracks about 5 metres to the left of the right-hand edge of wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1994


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