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Description

Easier trad climbing in a remote, beautiful location.

The climbing is mostly easy with one or two superb natural lines but be wary of huge, fragile jugs on some sections. On the right side of the cliff is a smaller wall of superb rock with a few harder climbs.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
9 * The Wizard Of Id Trad 80m

A pleasant climb up the corner to the left of the great blank wall.

  1. 35m (9) Climb the corner and belay somewhere.

  2. 30m (9) Continue up the corner to a ledge beneath a steep wall.

  3. 15m (9) Take the left-hand crack to the top.

FA: Alan and Geoff Gledhill (alt), 1971

2
7 ** Black Knight Trad 90m

A great climb up a huge corner leads to a fragile finish.

Start: Start below the huge corner marking the right side of an impressive blank wall.

  1. 50m (7) Climb the huge corner until the rope runs out.

  2. 40m (-) Continue up the line until it runs out and finish up the juggy wall.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Alan Gledhill (alt) and Ben Sandilands, 1971

3
12 * Bastion Trad 100m

A pleasant first pitch.

Start: Start in the corner 10 metres right of 'Black Knight'.

  1. 33m (12) Climb the corner for 20 metres and then traverse 2 metres right and up into the chimney line. Continue to a belay.

  2. 40m (-) Continue up the line for 20 metres and then step right into a broken chimney which is climbed to a steep, juggy wall. Belay with care.

  3. 27m (12) Continue up the steep wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Michael Stone, 1971

4
6 Knight Errant Trad 100m

Easy climbing on good rock in the depths of a massive formation.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Bastion' where two huge, juggy walls join to form a wide open-book formation. Scramble up to the line.

  1. 45m (6) Move into the deep, hidden chimney and bridge up. Move right at 45 metres to a stance.

  2. 45m (6) Up the line above the stance. Traverse left at 23 metres to another line that leads to a large ledge.

  3. 10m (6) On up the line.

FA: Peter Watling, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1981

5

The corner and wall 5 metres left of the major corner.

FA: Peter Campbell, John Taylor. Easter., 1984

6
4 ** Lioness Trad 50m

A climb of quality.

FA: Geoff and Alan Gledhill, 1971

7

Climb the line right of 'Lioness' past a block and then traverse left into 'Lioness'.

FA: Peter Campbell, John Taylor, Helen Godfrey. Easter., 1984

8

Go 3 metres up the flake and step right. Climb the wall, mostly just left of the arete until the bulge. Take this via the main crack.

Start: Start 15 metres right of 'Lioness' at a flake-corner.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, 1983

9

Start: Start 5 metres right of Mr Piggy's Train Ride.

  1. 15m (20) Up groove, moving left at 8 metres to the next crack. Continue to a poor stance below the bulge.

  2. 35m (20) Up the wall, trending right, easing dramatically after first 5 metres.

FA: Kevin Lindorff and Kieran Loughran, 1984

10
17 Stonehenge Trad 40m

Wideish diagonal crack 10 metres right of 'Biggles Pulls It Off'.

FA: Keith Lockwood,Kieran Loughran, Peter Watling, John Taylor, 1981

11
9 Chain Mail Trad 68m

The right arete of the buttress with a very exposed second pitch.

Start: At the left hand end of the cliff below the right arete of a large buttress with a huge triangular roof high up. Start in a cave under a leaning block.

  1. 24m (9) Up short wide crack and move right over block to arete. Up, bypassing roof via right wall. Traverse left above roof onto front of buttress to belay stance at continuation of original crack.

  2. 44m (9) Climb initial overhang at crack then up wall trending left until angle eases. Now follow arete right and up to the Visor (run-out). Staright up headwall above visor to poor ti-tree anchors at top.

FA: Tony Brotherton, Peter Watling, 1995

12
18 * Atom Ant Trad 20m

Steep, well-protected, delightful climbing up wall.

Start: Start 2 metres right of the left-hand end of the wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer, mark Poustie, 1994

13
Halberd Trad 79m

Another big arete. Start as for 'The Wizard Of Id'.

  1. 35m (-) Crux. Up 'The Wizard Of Id' for a few metres then the thin crack up the vertical arete on the right. Belay on a tiny stance on the left at the top of the crack, 3 metres below a roof on the arete.

  2. 19m (-) Continue up past the roof. About 3 metres above the roof, a horizontal dyke forms an overlap with a foot-ledge above it. Pull onto the ledge and traverse right to the arete. Up easily to belay stance.

  3. 25m (-) Easily up.

FA: Peter Watling, Tony Brotherton (alt), 1995

14

Black streak 3 metres right of "Reckless"

FA: Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer, 1994

15
13 Flipside Trad 20m

In the middle of the wall is a dark chimney. Up 2 metres right of the chimney.

FA: Matt walsh, Campbell Mercer, 1994

16
Broadsword Trad 79m

The left arete of the wall immediately left of Wizard Of Id rears up as a steep curving blade of rock. Grade not given in original description.

  1. 35m (-) Easy angled arete becomes steeper at 15 metres. Continue through several bulges to a really nice belay.

  2. 44m (-) Crux. Up just right of the edge. Where it bulges out left, climb straight up the bulging wall to the top keeping 2-3 metres from the edge.

FA: Peter Watling, Tony Brotherton (alt), 1995

17
16 Downhearted Trad 20m

Thin series of diagonal cracks about 5 metres to the left of the right-hand edge of wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, 1994

18
16 Reckless Trad 20m

Up flake 5 metres right of "Atom Ant" and then wall above.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, 1994