Summit Block All trad climbing8 routes in area
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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range
The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.
Situated on a western spur at the top of the range, 'The Fortress' is one of the most remote major climbing spots in Gariwerd.
Rescue from here has taken many hours even with perfect weather and helicopter support. Mobile coverage has been available in the Passport area but this may vary according to weather or carrier.© (nmonteith)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
The siuous corner just left of the chasm separating thePassport pinnacle from the main massif.
10m (16) Awkward short corner to large ledge.
30m (18) Follow the corner.
30m (14) Continue up the line until it doglegs right and peters out. Traverse left at this point until able to move up (runout) to the next line that leads to overhangs. Belay where possible.
40m (17) Continue up the line and through the overhangs.
FA: Keith Lockwood & David Shirra, 1977
A dramatic route with some poorly protected difficult climbing.
Start 10-15 metres left of 'Quincas Borba'.
30m (20) Up the unprotected wall to a corner which leads to a roof. Move out right around the roof and up the line above to a good ledge on the left.
30m (-) Step right and traverse right across the wall for 10 metres. Go up a faint groove to a ledge and large blcok. Stand on the block and climb the steep wall, tending left as it eases.
40m (-) Straight up the series of walls.
30m (-) Up the groove and over the overhangs as for Quincas Borba's final pitch.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Eddie Ozols & Paul Daniels, 1982
A fine route in an exposed, atmospheric setting on the left edge of the Passport recess.
45m (13) Bridge up the chimney and arete. Near the top, move onto the left wall and follow a diagonal line up left to a prominent vertical line. Go up to a small stance.
10m (-) Up to next ledge.
45m (13) When the line runs out, climb the bulge and continue straight up the wall to a prominent notch on the skyline.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Watling, 1981
This huge diagonal line on the north face of the summit blcok can be seen from the highway when the light is right. It's not much good though.
Rock quality and protection are problematic at times.
37m (12) Follow the diagonal line.
20m (12) Move up to a steep, juggy wall and traverse left until the jugs become sound enough to allow a safe ascent. Continue up to the cave.
20m (12) Move out of the cave and onto the right wall. Up the wall, tending right and belay on a narrow ledge. Rope drag and poor protection are issues.
10m (-) Eaisly to the top.
FA: H. Tutt & K.Guzzwell, 26th Sep