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Description:© (deano)

"The best line in 'Australia'..."

The second pitch roof-crack could hardly be in a better position.

This is also a superb mixed climb at 20, M2 if the roof is aided. Sadly it is often under-estimated and the detritus of retreat is often evident. It is not a practice route.

Start: The start is rather obvious.

  1. 50m (20) Up wide crack. Belay at stance where crack ends, about 10m below the roof. A #5 cam is useful on this pitch.

  2. 20m (27) Move R to gain nice rail that leads L to the back of the roof, and the start of the roof crack. Follow crack (at either 27 or M2) to the lip and then up to belay stance.

  3. 40m (18) Ramble up to the top.

Ethic:© inherited from The Fortress

Avoid bolts.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: K. Lockwood & J Friend, 3 Oct 1974

  • First Free Ascent: Nyrie Dodd, 1986


Located in Summit Block approx:
Lat/Long: -37.306998,142.297239

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

28 Community registered grade
27 or 20M2 Grampians Selected Climbs
27 *** ACA Route Register
28 RockGUIDE: Victoria
28 The Victoria Range

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 93%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good sweet amazing super great beautiful awesome epic roof hands face easy bail bad offwidth lip

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