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Description:© (deano)

"The best line in 'Australia'..."

The second pitch roof-crack could hardly be in a better position.

This is also a superb mixed climb at 20, M2 if the roof is aided. Sadly it is often under-estimated and the detritus of retreat is often evident. It is not a practice route.

Start: The start is rather obvious.

  1. 50m (20) Up wide crack. Belay at stance where crack ends, about 10m below the roof. A #5 cam is useful on this pitch.

  2. 20m (27) Move R to gain nice rail that leads L to the back of the roof, and the start of the roof crack. Follow crack (at either 27 or M2) to the lip and then up to belay stance.

  3. 40m (18) Ramble up to the top.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: K. Lockwood, J Friend, 3 Oct 1974

Location:  

Located in The Fortress approx:
Long/Lat: 142.298943,-37.307076

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

27 *** *** ACA Route Register
27 or 20M2 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
28 Principal
28 *** The Victoria Range
28 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good sweet awesome epic roof offwidth

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