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Description

Classy sports climbing on super steep, fantastic quality sandstone. As they say "the biggest jugs you're ever likely to fall off".

On the other hand, it has to be said that it is more popular/famous than it deserves to be, no doubt because it was one of the first sport crags in the whole state. So bear in mind that the 'Grampians' has a lot of other relatively unknown crags of comparable quality.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 * Bang, Bang You're Dead! Sport 13m, 4

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

2
22 Going Blank Again Sport 17m, 6

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

3
16 The Educator Sport 12m, 3

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne and Doug Williams

4
25 Hueco Dreaming Sport 9m

One move wonder and a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

5
25 * Texas Nightmare Sport 12m

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

6
25 * Mr Meat Sport 24m

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

7
25 Mr Meat - Weaveworld Sport 20m
9
23 *** Weaveworld Sport 25m

Classic pumping leads into a tricky traverse L to an exposed stance on the arete. Finish up on huge buckets.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Edwin Young, 1991

10
23 ** Chain of Fools Sport 15m

Navigate your way through the maze of chalk on some of the biggest holds you're ever likely to find at this grade. Easier than 'Weaveworld' and a popular "warmup".

FA: Richard Smith, Glenn Tempest, 1992

11
24 ** Two Tribes Sport 15m

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

12
26 * Chasin the Tribe Sport 15m

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

13
27 *** Chasin' the Shadow Sport 15m

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

14

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2000

15
28 *** Shadow Death Sport 17m

FA: Nick Sutter

16
29 ** Le Petit Mort Sport 20m

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave.

FA: Helmut Nesadba, 1991

17
32 ** Nicotine Sport 23m

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

FA: Garth Miller, 1996

18
28 Smokin Monkey Sport

Starts as koala, into monkey direct. Finishes as nicotine headwall. Power Endurance.

19
28 *** Monkey Puzzle Sport 22m

The line of the crag. Long steep pumper straight through the guts of the wall. To descend either; back-clean, lower off 'Nicotine' bolts (careful traversing over), or top out and untie (and leave your draws there for the next punter).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

20
29 Monkey Puzzle Direct Sport 20m

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1998

21

Break off left after 3rd bolt of Koala into MPD.

22
30 Bananas In Ya Pie Sport 20m

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

FA: Joshua Grose, 2007

23

Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

24
26 R ** Gorilla Tactics Sport 15m

Really steep, but a few sneaky rests take the sting out a bit (if you find them).

Make sure your belayer is paying attention when you are clipping. It's not a serious route or a death route, but it could be messy.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

25
26 * Pigs In a Blanket Sport 15m

Next line right of GT. Crux at the lip, so watch your back (as for previous route).

FA: Corinne Gwyther, 1998

26
28 ** Super Delux Sport 25m

Mega R to L traverse. Start in the back of the cave R of Pigs. Up through Pigs, cross GT at the 3rd bolt, pull the lip of Koala, move past MP and 'Nicotine', then finish as for LPM.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1998

27
29 * Evil D Sport 25m

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

FA: Simon Carter

28
21 Azusi Sport 6

Start from the left end of the cave. 3m up, cross right then straight up past RBs.

FA: Andrea Buchaver (Austria), 1992

29
22 ** The Perfect Crime Sport 15m, 6

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

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