The Perfect Crime

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Start from the left end of the cave. 3m up (natural pro), cross right then straight up past 3 BRs. Belay in cave.

FA: Andrea Buchaver (Austria), 1992

Mr Meat

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Weaveworld

Classic pumping leads into a tricky traverse L to an exposed stance on the arete. Finish up on huge buckets.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Edwin Young, 1991

Chain of Fools

Navigate your way through the maze of chalk on some of the biggest holds you're ever likely to find at this grade. Easier than 'Weaveworld' and a popular "warmup".

FA: Richard Smith, Glenn Tempest, 1992

Two Tribes

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Evil D

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

FA: Simon Carter,

Chasin the Tribe

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

Chasin' the Shadow

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Shadow Death

FA: Nick Sutter,

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2000

Le Petit Mort

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave.

FA: Helmut Nesadba, 1991

Nicotine

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

FA: Garth Miller, 1996

Monkey Puzzle

The line of the crag. Long steep pumper straight through the guts of the wall. To descend either; back-clean, lower off 'Nicotine' bolts (careful traversing over), or top out and untie (and leave your draws there for the next punter).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Line of bolts just R of MP, to join it at the lip. A bit of a squeeze job.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1998

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

FA: Joshua Grose, 2007

Break off left after 3rd bolt of Koala into MPD.

Starts as koala, into monkey direct. Finishes as nicotine headwall. Power Endurance.

Like a Koala in His Eucalyptus

Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

Gorilla Tactics

Really steep, but a few sneaky rests take the sting out a bit (if you find them).

Make sure your belayer is paying attention when you are clipping. It's not a serious route or a death route, but it could be messy.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Pigs In a Blanket

Next line right of GT. Crux at the lip, so watch your back (as for previous route).

FA: Corinne Gwyther, 1998

Super Delux

Mega R to L traverse. Start in the back of the cave R of Pigs. Up through Pigs, cross GT at the 3rd bolt, pull the lip of Koala, move past MP and 'Nicotine', then finish as for LPM.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1998

One move wonder and a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Texas Nightmare

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Bang, Bang You're Dead!

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne and Doug Williams,