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Description

Classy sports climbing on super steep, fantastic quality sandstone. As they say "the biggest jugs you're ever likely to fall off".

On the other hand, it has to be said that it is more popular/famous than it deserves to be, no doubt because it was one of the first sport crags in the whole state. So bear in mind that the 'Grampians' has a lot of other relatively unknown crags of comparable quality.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 * Bang, Bang You're Dead! Sport 13m, 4

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

2
22 Going Blank Again Sport 17m, 6

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

3
16 The Educator Sport 12m, 3

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne and Doug Williams

4
25 Hueco Dreaming Sport 9m

One move wonder and a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

5
25 * Texas Nightmare Sport 12m

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

6
25 * Mr Meat Sport 24m

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

7
25 Mr Meat - Weaveworld Sport 20m
9
23 *** Weaveworld Sport 25m

Classic pumping leads into a tricky traverse L to an exposed stance on the arete. Finish up on huge buckets.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Edwin Young, 1991

10
23 ** Chain of Fools Sport 15m

Navigate your way through the maze of chalk on some of the biggest holds you're ever likely to find at this grade. Easier than 'Weaveworld' and a popular "warmup".

FA: Richard Smith, Glenn Tempest, 1992

11
24 ** Two Tribes Sport 15m

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

12
26 * Chasin the Tribe Sport 15m

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

13
27 *** Chasin' the Shadow Sport 15m

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

14

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2000

15
28 *** Shadow Death Sport 17m

FA: Nick Sutter

16
29 ** Le Petit Mort Sport 20m

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave.

FA: Helmut Nesadba, 1991

17
32 ** Nicotine Sport 23m

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

FA: Garth Miller, 1996

18
28 Smokin Monkey Sport

Starts as koala, into monkey direct. Finishes as nicotine headwall. Power Endurance.

19
28 *** Monkey Puzzle Sport 22m

The line of the crag. Long steep pumper straight through the guts of the wall. To descend either; back-clean, lower off 'Nicotine' bolts (careful traversing over), or top out and untie (and leave your draws there for the next punter).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

20
29 Monkey Puzzle Direct Sport 20m

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1998

21

Break off left after 3rd bolt of Koala into MPD.

22
30 Bananas In Ya Pie Sport 20m

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

FA: Joshua Grose, 2007

23

Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

24
26 R ** Gorilla Tactics Sport 15m

Really steep, but a few sneaky rests take the sting out a bit (if you find them).

Make sure your belayer is paying attention when you are clipping. It's not a serious route or a death route, but it could be messy.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

25
26 * Pigs In a Blanket Sport 15m

Next line right of GT. Crux at the lip, so watch your back (as for previous route).

FA: Corinne Gwyther, 1998

26
28 ** Super Delux Sport 25m

Mega R to L traverse. Start in the back of the cave R of Pigs. Up through Pigs, cross GT at the 3rd bolt, pull the lip of Koala, move past MP and 'Nicotine', then finish as for LPM.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1998

27
29 * Evil D Sport 25m

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

FA: Simon Carter

28
21 Azusi Sport 6

Start from the left end of the cave. 3m up, cross right then straight up past RBs.

FA: Andrea Buchaver (Austria), 1992

29
22 ** The Perfect Crime Sport 15m, 6

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

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