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Description

Classy sports climbing on super steep, fantastic quality sandstone. As they say "the biggest jugs you're ever likely to fall off".

On the other hand, it has to be said that it is more popular/famous than it deserves to be, no doubt because it was one of the first sport crags in the whole state. So bear in mind that the 'Grampians' has a lot of other relatively unknown crags of comparable quality.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne & Doug Williams

One move wonder and a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Classic pumping leads into a tricky traverse L to an exposed stance on the arete. Finish up on huge buckets.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Edwin Young, 1991

Navigate your way through the maze of chalk on some of the biggest holds you're ever likely to find at this grade. Easier than 'Weaveworld' and a popular "warmup".

FA: Richard Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1992

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2000

FA: Nick Sutter

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave. Upgraded due to broken hold

FA: Helmut Nesadba, 1991

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

FA: Garth Miller, 1996

Starts as koala, into monkey direct. Finishes as nicotine headwall. Power Endurance.

The line of the crag. Long steep pumper straight through the guts of the wall. To descend either; back-clean, lower off 'Nicotine' bolts (careful traversing over), or top out and untie (and leave your draws there for the next punter).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1998

Break off left after 3rd bolt of Koala into MPD.

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

FA: Joshua Grose, 2007

Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

Really steep, but a few sneaky rests take the sting out a bit (if you find them).

Make sure your belayer is paying attention when you are clipping. It's not a serious route or a death route, but it could be messy.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Next line right of GT. Crux at the lip, so watch your back (as for previous route).

FA: Corinne Gwyther, 1998

Mega R to L traverse. Start in the back of the cave R of Pigs. Up through Pigs, cross GT at the 3rd bolt, pull the lip of Koala, move past MP and 'Nicotine', then finish as for LPM.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1998

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

FA: Simon Carter

Start from the left end of the cave. 3m up, cross right then straight up past RBs.

FA: Andrea Buchaver (Austria), 1992

Tough boulderery start of the cairn. Follow the dyke feature to anchor. Thin, technical and sustained.

FFA: chris abernethy

FA: 2015

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Activity

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