The Lost World

  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 20mins
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 104

Access issues inherited from Eureka Area

The Yanganaginj Njawi (Emus' foot) track is a closed to vehicle track at all times of the year. This is regardless of whether it is locked or signed as "Closed". Please do not drive around the gate or through if open. Driving on closed roads endangers access. Approach from Matthew Track if that is open, face a longer walk or climb elsewhere. Discussions with Land Managers are still in progress.



Follow Jananginj Jawi track for 2km then follow cairned walking track until cairns run out then head left over the black slabs towards the tiered orange wall

© (nmonteith)


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Mind-blowing roof and arete.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

Starts as per OF. Climb steep roof to large horizontal. Instead of climbing thin seam/arete move right onto streaked grey wall.

FA: Phil Gruber, 2014

Traverses the headwall to the R of OF. Excellent rock and climbing. Gear is adequate (take cams to size 3, incl micro cams).

  1. 20m, Wander up slab, to belay just past R end of roof.

  2. 20m, Up weakness to gain left leading horizontals which are ascended gradually to gain white streak which leads easily to final traverse L below summit roof. Go all the way, and Rap as for OF.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 7 Aug 2016

2m right of LBL,

  1. 30m 23. Up flake over bulge past bolt, trending left through next bulges past fixed pin to sloping belay ledge.

  2. 10m 22 Straight up past bolt and continue up on horizontal breaks to absail chain. Rap off on a 70m just

FFA: Malcolm Matherson & Andy Schmutter, Nov 2014

The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.

  1. 15m (23) Sustained under-clinging leads to semi-hanging belay.

  2. 25m (24) From belay, go right, up, and back left, weaving around arete to belay below final roof.

  3. 15m (17) Step left, up, traverse right and up.

FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991

Diabolical slab start followed by very continuous steep red wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 30 May 2012

The gigantic roof just left of 'Little Boy Lost'.Looks like the prow of a battleship, as seen from the waterline.First pitch goes up to and second pitch underclings the upside-down roof arête. Pitches described separately. Black rounded arête immediately right of the chimney/gulch. You have to bridge up the gully to start, followed by awkward and off balance arete climbing.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

Super exposed upside-down roof-arête.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

Start up pockets as for 'Cosmos', then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right).

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 2003

Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof. Trad with some bolts.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

Start as for round the twist. Climb upwards over bulges trending right to left end of roof. Traverse right on horizontals over lip of roof to short crack. Up to overlap and right to arete. Wrap off, bring tat.

FA: Peter Bovino & Soren Netz

Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack.

FFA: Jack Jane, 2011

Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.

  1. 30m (19) Beautiful crack which bisects the otherwise smooth wall.When the angle eases, head up diagonally right to belay near arete.

  2. 30m (19) Step left to little orange corner.Verge right up wall and pull over roof. Traverse left along lip of the roof to the brink (fantastic exposure), then up headwall to top, finishing just left of little triangular summit overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood (alt), 2003

Direct version of the 2nd pitch. Straight up instead of right

FFA: Malcolm Matheso & Anthony Patterson, Apr 2012

Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 2003

Rightward horizontal break

FFA: Rob Oliver & Malcolm MAtheson, 2011

Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Tim Lockwood & Keith Lockwood, 2003

Wall right of Eau Rouge with a traverse in from the right to avoid the blank wall. Trad with some bolts

FFA: Malcolm Matheso & Rob Oliver, 2011

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, Oct 2009

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

One piece of trad to start then 3 bolts. Bouldery on awesome rock.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

Same start as Pterodactyl (trad) then head left and up past 4 bolts to same anchor.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

  1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

  2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off

FFA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 31 Aug 2014

Follows stellar arete which starts down and left of redline. 2 bolts and trad on both pitches.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

2 bolts and trad.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

Desperate laybacking. 4 bolt sport route with lower off in gully around left of Redline.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

Adds a harder, more engaging finish to Pacaraima. Where the original climbs heads back leftward, head up right instead (past 2 more bolt runners). Rap chains where the angle and the climbing ease significantly.

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, Apr 2017

At the major gully that is encountered a few metres down left of the start of The Land that Time Forgot, head downhill to a steep east-facing wall. About 30-35m downhill is the start of a rightward-leading diagonal line. Climb up a few metres to a bolt runner, then carefully up rightward (trad gear) following the line to a major break that slices diagonally across the wall from low right to high left. Follow the break up leftward for approximately 4 or 5m and easily for a few more metres up the slabby stuff above. Trad belay. Scramble off up left.

FFA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson., Feb 2017

The next route in the gully. Difficult moves up and right to gain corner. Continue technically up corner to small overlap where you move on to arete. Head up this and left to anchors. 2 Fixed hangers and 3 rings.

FFA: adam demmert, 28 Oct 2012

CLOSED PROJECT - Adam Demmert - Next route left up the Gully. Rightward diagonal seam.

An impressive effort – Malcolm, as is his want, made sure each piece of gear (except the fixed piton) was placed on lead. A few metres down left of the start of The Land that Time Forgot, there is a major gully. Follow the right side of this gully uphill, initially past a couple of sports routes (Valley of Fear and Jurassic Adventures) and onward about another 50m to a striking diagonal overhanging crack/seam. Follow the relentlessly overhanging pocketed seam; trad gear with one fixed pin to a double bolt anchor.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 18 Apr 2017

It is thought that this route takes the big easy line up the lower tier and crosses the upper terrace to the yellow corner, probably neasr "Humboldt". Looks worthless.

In the middle of the cliff right of "The Go-Between" an easy-angled grey corner is the only break in the initial overhangs. Above is an impressive yellow corner.

  1. 45m (14) A tricky start then doddle up just right of the corner to a tree belay.

  2. 25m (-) Up easily to terrace below the yellow corner.

  3. 45m (14) Fight up the vines into the chimney 9just left of "Humboldt" and bridge up this to a ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Easily up jugs on left arete.

FA: Chris Baxter & Chris O'Brien (alt), 1975

Quite a moderate route for such an enormous buttress, with only a few hard moves and plenty of gear. Take plenty of nuts and slings; but leave your micro and large cams behind!

    1. Delightful for the grade. Start about 15m R of Indiana Jones, take a L leading line of your choice, then up Arete to same belay as for IJ.
  1. Crux; wonderfully long and exposed. Head out left, and where IJ goes up, keep going left across top of flake via a committing move. Keep the rising traverse going until the roof angle lessens, and you can gain the headwall above (don't go up through roof too early).

Quite a bit of excitement. Takes the big orange wall right of " The Go-Between". Start a few metres right of that climb.

  1. 30m (22) Around overhang and up wall following a vague orange streak between three overhangs. Step right to belay in an eyrie.

  2. 25m (22) Tend left up wall to smooth red streak then straight up wall. Step left to go through break in overhang and up final wall.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Takes the major black streak up the headwall left of Indiana Jones, with a very thin crux amongst some amazing moderate climbing on great rock.

Straight up wall left of IJ to follow left leading diagonal line to it's end. Up overhanging wall to grey slab where the holds (and gear) appear to run out. Thin moves (and small wires) lead to relief at the overlap. If you survived the prehistoric birds, jug it out over final roof and up to belay.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 21 Nov 2015

Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.

  1. 34m (7) Start on massive jugs and continue up and left into the line. Belay out on the left wall when the crack bends sharpest to the left.

  2. 45m (7) Climb the left wall to the top.

FA: Chris O'Brien & Chris Baxter (alt), 1975

Steep cracky goodness. Hand to finger. Way over left on a separate wall.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2011

Down on the lower level again, this is the orange wall you see walking towards this area. Follow orange scoops up wall. Tricky start leads to sneaky moves left at 3rd bolt to gain next leadge/scoops. follow these to bust out on the thin face to finish.

Bring your arms and your technique. 40 degrees overhanging and sick.

Closed Project Please Stay off.

Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish.

FFA: James Scott Bohanna & Adam Demmert, 12 Oct 2012

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