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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.


Follow Jananginj Jawi track for 2km then follow cairned walking track until cairns run out then head left over the black slabs towards the tiered orange wall

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
25 *** Orinoco Flow Mixed 30m, 1

Mind-blowing roof and arete.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

25 *** Orinoco Fill Trad 30m

Starts as per OF. Climb steep roof to large horizontal. Instead of climbing thin seam/arete move right onto streaked grey wall.

FA: Phil Gruber, 2014

17 * A Day without Rain Trad 40m, 2

Traverses the headwall to the R of OF. Excellent rock and climbing. Gear is adequate (take cams to size 3, incl micro cams).

  1. 20m, Wander up slab, to belay just past R end of roof.

  2. 20m, Up weakness to gain left leading horizontals which are ascended gradually to gain white streak which leads easily to final traverse L below summit roof. Go all the way, and Rap as for OF.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 2016

23 * Malcolm and Andy's New route Mixed 70m, 2, 2

2m right of LBL,

  1. 30m 23. Up flake over bulge past bolt, trending left through next bulges past fixed pin to sloping belay ledge.

  2. 10m 22 Straight up past bolt and continue up on horizontal breaks to absail chain. Rap off on a 70m just

FFA: Malcolm Matherson & Andy Schmutter, 2014

24 ** Little Boy Lost Trad 55m, 3

The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.

  1. 15m (23) Sustained under-clinging leads to semi-hanging belay.

  2. 25m (24) From belay, go right, up, and back left, weaving around arete to belay below final roof.

  3. 15m (17) Step left, up, traverse right and up.

FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991

26 ** Eye's Wide Shut Sport 25m, 8

Diabolical slab start followed by very continuous steep red wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2012

26 *** A Space Odyssey Pitch 1 Sport 30m, 8

The gigantic roof just left of 'Little Boy Lost'.Looks like the prow of a battleship, as seen from the waterline.First pitch goes up to and second pitch underclings the upside-down roof arête. Pitches described separately. Black rounded arête immediately right of the chimney/gulch. You have to bridge up the gully to start, followed by awkward and off balance arete climbing.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003


Super exposed upside-down roof-arête.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

27 ** The Obelisk Sport 20m, 4

Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

21 ** Humboldt Trad 20m

Start up pockets as for 'Cosmos', then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right).

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 2003

22 ** Cosmos Trad 20m

Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof. Trad with some bolts.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

16 * Sorroson Trad 25m

Start as for round the twist. Climb upwards over bulges trending right to left end of roof. Traverse right on horizontals over lip of roof to short crack. Up to overlap and right to arete. Wrap off, bring tat.

FA: Peter Bovino & Soren Netz

18 * Round the Twist Trad 20m

Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack.

FFA: Jack Jane, 2011

19 ** Toucan Trad 60m, 2

Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.

  1. 30m (19) Beautiful crack which bisects the otherwise smooth wall.When the angle eases, head up diagonally right to belay near arete.

  2. 30m (19) Step left to little orange corner.Verge right up wall and pull over roof. Traverse left along lip of the roof to the brink (fantastic exposure), then up headwall to top, finishing just left of little triangular summit overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood (alt), 2003

22 ** Toucan Direct Trad 20m

Direct version of the 2nd pitch. Straight up instead of right

FFA: Malcolm Matheso & Anthony Patterson, 2012

18 *** Roraima Trad 20m

Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 2003


Rightward horizontal break

FFA: Rob Oliver & Malcolm MAtheson, 2011

21 ** Casiquiare Trad 25m

Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Tim Lockwood & Keith Lockwood, 2003

22 * Amazonia Trad 25m

Wall right of Eau Rouge with a traverse in from the right to avoid the blank wall. Trad with some bolts

FFA: Malcolm Matheso & Rob Oliver, 2011

23 *** Eau Rouge Mixed 32m, 3

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

28 *** Red LIne Mixed 30m, 3

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

25 * Pterodactyl Sport 15m, 3

One piece of trad to start then 3 bolts. Bouldery on awesome rock.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

25 * Iguanadon Sport 15m, 4

Same start as Pterodactyl (trad) then head left and up past 4 bolts to same anchor.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

23 ** Lost in Antiquity Trad 40m, 2

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

  1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

  2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off

FFA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2014

26 ** The Land That Time Forgot Mixed 20m, 2, 4

Follows stellar arete which starts down and left of redline. 2 bolts and trad on both pitches.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011


2 bolts and trad.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

25 * Jurassic Adventure Sport 15m, 4

Desperate laybacking. 4 bolt sport route with lower off in gully around left of Redline.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

25 ** The Valley of Fear Sport 12m, 5

The next route in the gully. Difficult moves up and right to gain corner. Continue technically up corner to small overlap where you move on to arete. Head up this and left to anchors. 2 Fixed hangers and 3 rings.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2012


CLOSED PROJECT - Adam Demmert - Next route left up the Gully. Rightward diagonal seam.


Further up the gully from MFTM is another hard crack line Malcolm has cleaned and is working, possibly 30+

14 The Mind Tinker Trad 130m, 4

It is thought that this route takes the big easy line up the lower tier and crosses the upper terrace to the yellow corner, probably neasr "Humboldt". Looks worthless.

In the middle of the cliff right of "The Go-Between" an easy-angled grey corner is the only break in the initial overhangs. Above is an impressive yellow corner.

  1. 45m (14) A tricky start then doddle up just right of the corner to a tree belay.

  2. 25m (-) Up easily to terrace below the yellow corner.

  3. 45m (14) Fight up the vines into the chimney 9just left of "Humboldt" and bridge up this to a ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Easily up jugs on left arete.

FA: Chris Baxter & Chris O'Brien (alt), 1975

22 * Indiana Jones Trad 55m, 2

Quite a bit of excitement. Takes the big orange wall right of " The Go-Between". Start a few metres right of that climb.

  1. 30m (22) Around overhang and up wall following a vague orange streak between three overhangs. Step right to belay in an eyrie.

  2. 25m (22) Tend left up wall to smooth red streak then straight up wall. Step left to go through break in overhang and up final wall.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

23 ** Pterodactyl Attack Trad 45m

Takes the major black streak up the headwall left of Indiana Jones, with a very thin crux amongst some amazing moderate climbing on great rock.

Straight up wall left of IJ to follow left leading diagonal line to it's end. Up overhanging wall to grey slab where the holds (and gear) appear to run out. Thin moves (and small wires) lead to relief at the overlap. If you survived the prehistoric birds, jug it out over final roof and up to belay.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 2015

7 The Go-Between Trad 79m, 2

Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.

  1. 34m (7) Start on massive jugs and continue up and left into the line. Belay out on the left wall when the crack bends sharpest to the left.

  2. 45m (7) Climb the left wall to the top.

FA: Chris O'Brien & Chris Baxter (alt), 1975

24 * The Last Crusade Trad 12m

Steep cracky goodness. Hand to finger. Way over left on a separate wall.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2011


Down on the lower level again, this is the orange wall you see walking towards this area. Follow orange scoops up wall. Tricky start leads to sneaky moves left at 3rd bolt to gain next leadge/scoops. follow these to bust out on the thin face to finish.

FFA: Adam Demmert & James Scott-Bohanna, 1912

*** Malcolm's Crack TradProject

Bring your arms and your technique. 40 degrees overhanging and sick.


Closed Project Please Stay off.

24 * A Fortunate Life Mixed 10m, 4

Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish.

FFA: James Scott Bohanna & Adam Demmert, 2012

Malcolm Trad


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