Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall. 1. 30m (19) Beautiful crack which bisects the otherwise smooth wall.When the angle eases, head up diagonally right to belay near arete. 2. 30m (19) Step left to little orange corner.Verge right up wall and pull over roof. Traverse left along lip of the roof to the brink (fantastic exposure), then up headwall to top, finishing just left of little triangular summit overhang.
|12|| Toucan Direct
Direct version of the 2nd pitch. Straight up instead of right
Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.
Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way.
|17|| Eau Rouge
Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope
|18|| Red LIne
Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.