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Description

This area looks stunning from the 'Victoria' Valley but it's a bit disappointing. Left of the steep gully that splits the crag is one of Gariwerd's loosest, most dangerous faces. This is unclimbed.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Drive 6.6 kilometres south along the 'Victoria' range Road. Park 200 metres north of the 'Party Wall' hairpin, at the foot of a stony rise in the track. Head off left (east) and follow the creek down until able to cut back right (south) below outcrops to the main cliff.

GR 193734 (Victoria Range 1:25000)

© (kieranl)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Arrival Trad 40m

The left-facing prominent corner.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Simon Mentz (alt) and Phil Wilkins, 1991

2

Quite good. Pitch lengths are guesses.

Start: Start below cracks on the left wall of the prominent corner of "Arrival"

  1. 20m (21) Up the face a couple of metres left of the corner to a ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Up a bit, then out right under roof to a really nice crack on arete.

FA: James Falla, Ant (alt) and Jon Muir, 1991

3

Start: Start at a distinct off-width corner about 20 metres left of "Arrival"

  1. 40m (19) Up corner, avoiding the use of off-width technique to tree.

  2. 10m (19) Up crack behind tree.

FA: james Falla, Ant (alt) and Jon Muir, 1991

4
16 In The Restaurant Trad 75m

Start: Start about 25-30 metres left of "He Reviewed..." at a good line with a bulging crack start.

  1. 35m (16) Steeply up the line and on past the tree into the corner. After a superb hand-crack, avoid a dirty, closed corner by traversing left. Go up and belay on any of a series of ledges

  2. 30m (-) Move back right and climb the wall, tending right, going just past the left side of an overhang to belay in a large cave. Take care with the rock on this pitch.

  3. 10m (-) Walk ro the right-hand end of the cave and go up through more bulges.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1991

5
14 At Tienappels Trad 35m

The grey corner marking the right-hand side of the wall. Beware of loose blocks.

FA: Unknown, 2000

6
25 Satana Trad 35m

The line up the face just left of the grey corner of "At Tienappels"

FA: Unknown, possibly Lincoln Shepherd, 1991

7
21 ** Mental Gymnastics Trad 35m

Great climbing. The right-hand line on the orange wall has a right-facing corner at 2/3 height.

  1. 10m (18) Short, steep wall with difficult protection to terrace. Up 2 metres to ledge.

  2. 25m (21) Up wall to base of corner then corner and crack to horizontal break. Now 4 metres wall (crux) to belay.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Kieran Loughran, 1991

8
23 Consumption Trad 35m

Awkward wall left of 'Mental Gymnastics' to terrace. Left-facing corner then the left-most of the major lines on the orange wall.

FA: Steve Monks, Kieran Loughran, 1992

9
16 Lothar Trad 35m

Wideish line marking left side of orange wall.

FA: Erik Lock, Nick Neagle, 1992

10
17 Felix The Cat Unknown 35m

Up wall just left of wideish line.

FA: Nick Neagle, Erik Lock, 1992

11
19 A Word Too Much Trad 40m

Sustained wall to base of left-facing corner. Up corner to loose ledge on right. Climb a thin crack to a wide crack and go up past a couple of blockages to abseil tree.

Start: Start on the right side of the gully left of the orange wall and stinking cave at the line left of a major, cruddy corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1991

Open trips

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