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The perfect summer crag. Super shady steep orange wall of immaculate rock quality which get strong breezes. Like a poor mans 'Taipan Wall' it contains slopers, rounded pockets and a funny mix of bolts and trad. The nearby bouldering is also very good.
"How can a wall like this have lain dormant for so long?" That was the question on Kent's mind when he stumbled upon this area on one of his many exploratory trips with Neil whilst developing nearby 'Scoop Rocks'. Easily visible from the highway and the Gallery it only contained one climb before the development of 2003. 'The Tower' is a giant pillar of rock with a sheer orange wall on its south face. From all sides it requires roped climbing to summit and this has obviously repelled people from attempting first ascents. With the addition of rap anchors the climbs are now much easier to deal with. The rock is of the finest quality – comparable to the 'Bluffs' at 'Arapiles'. The routes are wandery affairs up proud lines and contain some natural gear. As a training ground for 'Taipan Wall' this place is hard to beat. This is not a sport crag. In the last few years there has been extensive bouldering development in the forest surrounding this wall. This is one of the best bouldering areas in the 'Victoria' Ranges and there is still tonnes of potential for new problems. There is no official guide to this area so ask around for more info. Julian Saunders and Simon Weill seem to know a lot about it.
Access issues inherited from Victoria Range
The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013. While most areas have reopened, they are still fragile. All crags in the Eureka Area are still closed due to the intensity of the fire in this area. Please respect the closures and check the cliffcare site for updates: http://cliffcare.org.au
Access: 4 hrs drive from 'Melbourne', 5 mins drive from Buandik campground, 25 minute walk. From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive N along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn R at a fork in the track. Continue 700m from the fork then turn left off the through track to a side track. This ends after 50m, park here. The walk-in is marked with red tags on trees but is not particularly easy to follow. Generally speaking, it heads East up the gully for 25mins to the crag. Within about 50m of the carpark is a jump across a deep little creek bed, then soon after the track heads R (SE) into the swampish sword grass area in the base of the gully (occasionally damp underfoot). The track stays amongst the sword grass for a surprisingly long way, to where
small (15m) rock buttresses start to appear on either side (The Crater is on the right here). Here the track starts to trend up the L side of the gully but still heads generally East, and is cairned to lead through to the base of the crag which is slightly to the left and faces South. 'Access' to this crag is quite complex and may require either a personal tour guide or a detailed map for first timers. For access information please contact Neil Monteith on nmonteith at yahoo.com or 0421 994 290. The south facing main wall is shaded all day long. In winter it is a cold miserable place which rarely dries even several days after rain. In summer it is perfect shady and cool. Down jackets get worn even on 30'C days! A small cave with some good roof boulder problems is a good shelter and is located below Iron Arms. GPS Location (-37.2405, 142.2711)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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