Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

The perfect summer crag. Super shady steep orange wall of immaculate rock quality which get strong breezes. Like a poor mans 'Taipan Wall' it contains slopers, rounded pockets and a funny mix of bolts and trad. The nearby bouldering is also very good.

"How can a wall like this have lain dormant for so long?" That was the question on Kent's mind when he stumbled upon this area on one of his many exploratory trips with Neil whilst developing nearby 'Scoop Rocks'. Easily visible from the highway and the Gallery it only contained one climb before the development of 2003. 'The Tower' is a giant pillar of rock with a sheer orange wall on its south face. From all sides it requires roped climbing to summit and this has obviously repelled people from attempting first ascents. With the addition of rap anchors the climbs are now much easier to deal with. The rock is of the finest quality – comparable to the 'Bluffs' at 'Arapiles'. The routes are wandery affairs up proud lines and contain some natural gear. As a training ground for 'Taipan Wall' this place is hard to beat. This is not a sport crag. In the last few years there has been extensive bouldering development in the forest surrounding this wall. This is one of the best bouldering areas in the 'Victoria' Ranges and there is still tonnes of potential for new problems. There is no official guide to this area so ask around for more info. Julian Saunders and Simon Weill seem to know a lot about it.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Access: 4 hrs drive from 'Melbourne', 5 mins drive from Buandik campground, 25 minute walk. From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive N along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn R at a fork in the track. Continue 700m from the fork then turn left off the through track to a side track. This ends after 50m, park here. The walk-in is marked with red tags on trees but is not particularly easy to follow. Generally speaking, it heads East up the gully for 25mins to the crag. Within about 50m of the carpark is a jump across a deep little creek bed, then soon after the track heads R (SE) into the swampish sword grass area in the base of the gully (occasionally damp underfoot). The track stays amongst the sword grass for a surprisingly long way, to where

small (15m) rock buttresses start to appear on either side (The Crater is on the right here). Here the track starts to trend up the L side of the gully but still heads generally East, and is cairned to lead through to the base of the crag which is slightly to the left and faces South. 'Access' to this crag is quite complex and may require either a personal tour guide or a detailed map for first timers. For access information please contact Neil Monteith on nmonteith at yahoo.com or 0421 994 290. The south facing main wall is shaded all day long. In winter it is a cold miserable place which rarely dries even several days after rain. In summer it is perfect shady and cool. Down jackets get worn even on 30'C days! A small cave with some good roof boulder problems is a good shelter and is located below Iron Arms. GPS Location (-37.2405, 142.2711)

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
26 * Looper Sport 15m, 5

Crazy arete on block.

FA: kp, hammert time, 2012

2
24 ** Iron Arms Pitch 1 Sport 20m, 6

Taipan style! Starts 5m left of Popeyed at scoopy overhung wall. Technical climbing up scoop past three FHs leads to jugs and cave rest. Blast up reachy wall above past last FH and head left to chain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2003

3
20 * Iron Arms Pitch 2 Sport 20m

Steps right from chain and follows thin crack heading slightly right to finish up juggy headwall on spaced gear. Rap off sling.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

4
21 * Prince Of Persia Sport 15m, 5

Once referred to as a link up, it has been bolted & renamed as its a really good warm up. Start at orange pocketed rock and climb a left veering line. Joins iron arms at 3rd FH.

best warm up for cliff.

FA: kp

FA: Kent Paterson, 2005

5
22 *** Popeye Trad 35m

The original trad line of the crag. Starts in the pocket patch off the ledge on the left side of the wall.

6
26 *** Thundercats Sport 25m, 8

Start at Popeyed. Stickclip first bolt then make a very cool & unlikely rightwards traverse across face. Follow line of steel up lovely dark orange rock to anchor.

FA: Equipped Neil Monteith '07, 2000

FA: Climbed inby KP., 2010

7
22 *** See The Light Sport 27m, 10

FA: kp and the millers falls superdrill !

8

Immaculate rock and a very tough crux if you're short. Central line about 10m right of Popeyed. Over rooflet (BR) and up juggy wall (BR) to horizontal break and rooflet. Up and left past BR and two FHs to mantle onto ledge. Run it out up white marble pockets past BR to belay anchor in cave.

FA: Neil Monteith

9

From end of pitch 1 cave swing right past two RBs to very exposed prow and natural gear. Step left and up flakes (RB) and surmount rooflet to grey juggy wall. Up this for 6m to rap anchor on ledge. Has been led as one giant pitch. Bring some medium/large cams on the first pitch and some smaller gear for the second pitch.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

10
24 *** Inspector Gadget Sport 40m

A very height dependent grade and a killer line right up the centre of the main wall. Pitch 1 18m 24 - Starts up Terror of the Sea to 2nd BR. Instead of traversing left go straight up past another BR and 2 FH's. Traverse right across slab to last FH and then to single u bolt loweroff or traverse further right to cave and belay on #3.5 camalot, big nut and #2 friend. Pitch 2 20m 22 - Step right from cave and up amazing sustained orange

FA: kp and tim le

11
29 ** Toar Pitch 1 Sport 20m, 5

A cool boulder problem off the deck. A very suspicious grade considering Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert and Neil Monteith played on this for several years without success. Suits tall climbers with strong fingers. Equipped by Neil in 2003.

Start: Start 10m right of Terror of the Sea.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

12
23 * Toar Pitch 2 Sport 20m, 2

Exposed face climbing. Belay at single giant U-bolt just left of fridge sized bird-poo

stained hanging 'death' block (5m right of Terror of the Sea's first pitch). Climb cautiously onto block. From block climb faint crack directly above onto exposed face and up this past two FH's to juggy finish. An alternative which avoids the hanging block is to start as for 'BMX Bandits' for two bolts then traverse left into the crack

line. Double rap rings for descent.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

13

FA: Equipped Malcolm Matheson, 2004

14
24 * BMX Bandits Sport 18m, 8

Squeezed in but still top stuff! An awesome faint arête and corner system on super quality rock. An alternate second pitch of 'Inspector Gadget'. Belay in cave as for the end of Inspector Gadget's first pitch. Clip first BR on IG then launch directly up to FH. Battle upwards on slopers, dishes and the occasional ledge past a further two FH's. Finish up small corner (to finish at double RB belay/lower-off.

FA: Kent Paterson Jono Schimdt; kent paterson, jono schimdt, 2005

15
22 * King Features Trad 30m

The big girdle traverse of the left leading horizontal crack feature which splits the main wall. Start at ground level right of Toar

and finish at chains on Iron Arms. Bring lots of cams, slings and body protection.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schmidt, 2005

16
25 *** Super Mario Bros Sport 25m

The famous crazy jump. Prominent hanging arete on right side of 'The Tower' with immaculate rock. This was the first of the 'new' routes to get attention. Stickclip third bolt and leap across to thread hold from the pinnacle opposite. It's about 3m horizontal! The climbing gets easier the higher you get. Double bolt lower off.

FA: Kent Paterson & Neil Monteith, 2003

17

Avoid the big dyno by starting on the cairn down low. Stick clip first bolt then boulder up the unlikely steep corner and through roof to reach big jugs and join into original route. Burly.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2005

18
28 *** Super Gadget Sport 35m

Links the best bits of 'The Tower' into one enduro mega pitch. Start as for Super Mario Direct and connect up to 'Inspector Gadget' Pitch 2 via undercling flake (2 FHs).

FA: HB

19

Ungradeable. Squeeze into slot under 'Super Mario Bros' (50m right of Popeyed). Squirm your way through to the other side of 'The Tower' heading for the light. Finish in the bouldering cave.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt (no torches), 2003

20
26 ** Red Right Hand Trad 16m

Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of 'Super Mario Bros'. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off.

FA: Gareth Llewillin; Gareth Llewellin

21
Project - KP Sport 20m, 6

Starts as per RRH then move right across pocketed face.

22
27 * Anatomica Sport 15m

Starts in chasm.

FA: Ingvar

23
20 Wellington Wimpy Sport 18m, 7

One of the better warm-ups at the crag. Starts 20m right of RRH just right of ugly black groove. Step across vast chasm onto wall (FH) and up right side of groove on big jugs past two more FHs and then easy juggy crack finish. Rap anchor

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert

24
24 * Zelda Sport 20m

Bouldery start, sustained crimpy middle. Lotsa bolts! Starts about 2m right of 'Wellington Wimpy'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

25

Climb grey streak passing 5 FH's to lower offs.

Start: Start as for Choda Boy

26
26 * Choda Boy Sport 17m, 5

Bouldery little number.

FA: Ingvar

27
23 Donkey Kong Jnr Sport 10m, 4

Located on north east side of 'The Tower' and just right of giant chossy cave. Novelty sport climbing up blob holds. One very high first BR and two RB's lead to DRB lower off.

FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2004

28
19 Olive Oyl Trad 20m

The easy option when everything else is too hard! Nice jug hauling spoilt by a dirty halfway ledge. Starts about 80m right of Popeyed and in centre of south facing wall on a separate buttress behind 'Wellington Wimpy'. Up left facing flake to vegetated ledge. Swing up overhung wall above trending left to bollard belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

29
22 Goil Trad 12m

Very obscure. 'Small' south facing grey wall on boulder about 100m below the north-west end of the Tower. Start is marked by cairn. Up overhung juggy crack to start then onwards up slopers and faint corner with spaced good gear. Crux move in corner near end. Rap off tree leaning against boulder to descend.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.