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The perfect summer crag. Super shady steep orange wall of immaculate rock quality which get strong breezes. Like a poor mans 'Taipan Wall' it contains slopers, rounded pockets and a funny mix of bolts and trad. The nearby bouldering is also very good.

"How can a wall like this have lain dormant for so long?" That was the question on Kent's mind when he stumbled upon this area on one of his many exploratory trips with Neil whilst developing nearby 'Scoop Rocks'. Easily visible from the highway and the Gallery it only contained one climb before the development of 2003. 'The Tower' is a giant pillar of rock with a sheer orange wall on its south face. From all sides it requires roped climbing to summit and this has obviously repelled people from attempting first ascents. With the addition of rap anchors the climbs are now much easier to deal with. The rock is of the finest quality – comparable to the 'Bluffs' at 'Arapiles'. The routes are wandery affairs up proud lines and contain some natural gear. As a training ground for 'Taipan Wall' this place is hard to beat. This is not a sport crag. In the last few years there has been extensive bouldering development in the forest surrounding this wall. This is one of the best bouldering areas in the 'Victoria' Ranges and there is still tonnes of potential for new problems. There is no official guide to this area so ask around for more info. Julian Saunders and Simon Weill seem to know a lot about it.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.


Access: 4 hrs drive from 'Melbourne', 5 mins drive from Buandik campground, 30 minute walk. From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive N along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn R at a fork in the track. Continue 700m from the fork then turn left off the track to a side track / parking area.

After the fires of 2013, the regrowth has made the track-in very hard to follow. But, you can now see the tower from the carpark (for how long?), so at least you've got an idea of where you're heading. From the carpark, a cleared trail leads east directly towards the tower. The 'track' gets very difficult to follow where you step over the small stream, but easy enough to pick up on the other side, provided you stay on the LHS of the gully. When you reach the rock buttresses, stay on the LHS, and the track becomes easier to follow. At the big cairn at the head of the gully, trend up the L side (still heading generally East). The track here is well cairned through to the base of the crag which is slightly to the left and faces South.

The south facing main wall is shaded all day long. In winter it is a cold miserable place which rarely dries even several days after rain. In summer it is perfect shady and cool. Down jackets get worn even on 30'C days! A small cave with some good roof boulder problems is a good shelter and is located below Iron Arms. GPS Location (-37.2405, 142.2711)

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Very unique arête on block. Located approx 30m west of the tower. Shade in morning.

FA: kp & hammert time, 21 Oct 2012

Taipan style! Starts 5m left of Popeyed at scoopy overhung wall. Technical climbing up scoop past three FHs leads to jugs and cave rest. Blast up reachy wall above past last FH and head left to chain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2003

Steps right from chain and follows thin crack heading slightly right to finish up juggy headwall to DRB above top bulge. 70m rope is ample to do this in 1 pitch from the ground, a 60m might even reach.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

Start at orange pocketed rock and climb a left veering line. Joins iron arms at 3rd FH. Link into top pitch of iron arms for best value...

FA: kp

FA: Kent Paterson, 2005

The original trad line of the crag. Starts in the pocket patch off the ledge on the left side of the wall.

Start at Popeyed. To eliminate a potential 20m groundfall for leader & belayer if the first bolt backclips, place a medium cam below it. Stickclip first bolt then make a very cool & unlikely rightwards traverse across face. Follow line of steel up lovely dark orange rock to anchor.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2007

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

The obvious link up both straightens and improves See the Light (though no doubt many will disagree). Probably 22 but will give it 23 for the wiggy insecure but excellent first half which definitely makes See the Light more consistent. Either way a fun variation. Best to place a 3 cam to augment the lonely first bolt of TC.

Anchor fixed 2017

FA: kp & the millers falls superdrill !

Immaculate rock and a very tough crux if you're short. Central line about 10m right of Popeyed. Over rooflet (BR) and up juggy wall (BR) to horizontal break and rooflet. Up and left past BR and two FHs to mantle onto ledge. Run it out up white marble pockets past BR to belay anchor in cave.

FA: Neil Monteith

From end of pitch 1 cave swing right past two RBs to very exposed prow. Step left and up flakes (RB) and surmount rooflet to grey juggy wall. Up this for 6m to rap anchor on ledge. Easily led as one pitch from the ground, 70m rope is plenty. Both pitches now fully bolted.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

A very height dependent grade and a killer line right up the centre of the main wall. Starts up ringbolts just right of terror of sea.

FA: kp & tim le

A cool boulder problem off the deck. A very suspicious grade considering Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert and Neil Monteith played on this for several years without success. Suits tall climbers with strong fingers. Equipped by Neil in 2003.

Start: Start 10m right of Terror of the Sea.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

Exposed face climbing. Belay at single giant U-bolt just left of fridge sized bird-poo

stained hanging 'death' block (5m right of Terror of the Sea's first pitch). Climb cautiously onto block. From block climb faint crack directly above onto exposed face and up this past two FH's to juggy finish. An alternative which avoids the hanging block is to start as for 'BMX Bandits' for two bolts then traverse left into the crack

line. Double rap rings for descent.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

FA: Equipped Malcolm Matheson, 2004

Squeezed in but still top stuff! An awesome faint arête and corner system on super quality rock. An alternate second pitch of 'Inspector Gadget'. Belay in cave as for the end of Inspector Gadget's first pitch. Clip first BR on IG then launch directly up to FH. Battle upwards on slopers, dishes and the occasional ledge past a further two FH's. Finish up small corner (to finish at double RB belay/lower-off.

FA: Kent Paterson Jono Schimdt; kent paterson & jono schimdt, 2005

2nd pitch and a sand bag at 22. Starts in middle of wall. Climb up and right of cave. Great pitch. The belay stance is not great; a 70m rope is ample to belay on the ground and lower back to the ground.

The big girdle traverse of the left leading horizontal crack feature which splits the main wall. Start at ground level right of Toar

and finish at chains on Iron Arms. Bring lots of cams, slings and body protection.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schmidt, 2005

The famous crazy jump. Prominent hanging arete on right side of 'The Tower' with immaculate rock. This was the first of the 'new' routes to get attention. Stickclip third bolt and leap across to thread hold from the pinnacle opposite. It's about 3m horizontal! The climbing gets easier the higher you get. Double bolt lower off.

FA: Kent Paterson & Neil Monteith, 2003

Avoid the big dyno by starting on the cairn down low. Stick clip first bolt then boulder up the unlikely steep corner and through roof to reach big jugs and join into original route. Burly.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2005

Links the best bits of 'The Tower' into one enduro mega pitch. Start as for Super Mario Direct and connect up to 'Inspector Gadget' Pitch 2 (now called Dr Claw) via undercling flake (2 shitty rusty FHs).


Ungradeable. Squeeze into slot under 'Super Mario Bros' (50m right of Popeyed). Squirm your way through to the other side of 'The Tower' heading for the light. Finish in the bouldering cave.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt (no torches), 2003

Starts as RRH then moves left at obvious horizontal

FA: graham dick, 2015

Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of 'Super Mario Bros'. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off.

FA: Gareth Llewillin; Gareth Llewellin

Starts as per RRH then move right across pocketed face.

Set by Kent Paterson, 2015

Starts in chasm.

FA: Ingvar

One of the better warm-ups at the crag. Starts 20m right of RRH just right of ugly black groove. Step across vast chasm onto wall (FH) and up right side of groove on big jugs past two more FHs and then easy juggy crack finish. Rap anchor

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert

Bouldery start, sustained crimpy middle. Lotsa bolts! Starts about 2m right of 'Wellington Wimpy'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Climb grey streak passing 5 FH's to lower offs.

Start: Start as for Choda Boy

Bouldery little number.

FA: Ingvar

Located on north east side of 'The Tower' and just right of giant chossy cave. Novelty sport climbing up blob holds. Two FH's and two RB's lead to DRB lower off.

FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2004

The easy option when everything else is too hard! Nice jug hauling spoilt by a dirty halfway ledge. Starts about 80m right of Popeyed and in centre of south facing wall on a separate buttress behind 'Wellington Wimpy'. Up left facing flake to vegetated ledge. Swing up overhung wall above trending left to bollard belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

Most straight-forward way up the huge boulder opposite the Tower's main wall. Start up crack L of the mossy scoop, and finish left of massive roof-block.

FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 24 Jan 2015

The massive boulder opposite the Tower now has 3 bolts up an tricky array of slab moves to reach horizontal. Until someone places another bolt, take a couple of large nuts and/or a medium sized cam to protect the easier upper section. Lower-off.

FA: Goshen Watts, 4 Apr 2015

Very obscure. 'Small' south facing grey wall on boulder about 100m below the north-west end of the Tower. Start is marked by cairn. Up overhung juggy crack to start then onwards up slopers and faint corner with spaced good gear. Crux move in corner near end. Rap off tree leaning against boulder to descend.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003


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