Details needed

This crag does not have a description!

Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
21 * Zaphod Beeblerox Trad 55m

The large corner system right of the orange wall. Start below twin corners that lead up to the terrace below the main corner.

  1. 20m (-) Take either of twin corners to terrace. The left-hand is easier and nicer.

  2. 35m (21) Climb out the overhang and up into the line, pausing only to hang off your third arm and remove your pullover.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kevin Lindorff (alt) and Kieran Loughran. Loughran and Watling previously climbed the initial corner in., 1981

2

Climb the weakness to the overhang and move right to the arete. Up to ledge and walk off.

Start: At the left-hand side of the wall is an orange recess. This climb was originally called 'Golden Gaytime'.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Woodfield, 1991

3
23 R Me Old Mate Darth Trad 35m

Bold, with a crux close to the ground with a nearby tree ready to puncture your kidneys.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1983

4
24 You're Busted Trad 30m

Seamed corner right of "Me Old Mate Darth", then wall to overlap. Step right onto slabby dish and up.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton, 1991

5
16 * Aimless Blade Trad 45m

Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left side of cliff.

  1. 15m (16) Climb the flake and move up to a tree.

  2. 30m (14) Step left and up thin cracks. Step right to a break in the overhang, pull over and go up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Gary Wills, 1981

6
17 Hot Cross Trad 25m

Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree.

Start: Start about 25 metres right of "Aimless Blade" ata wide crack.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman Easter, 1988

7
16 * Little Escapes Trad 35m

Obvious orange corner starting off a ledge, just a few metres right of "Hot Cross".

FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Watling, 1981

8

A whimsical journey. Start 3 metres right of "Little Escapes" at a thin line just left of arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger, 1985

9

Enjoyable. Start just right of Vasco below a crack.

FA: Meg Sleeman, Kieran Loughran, 1988

10
22 R Just In Passing Trad 40m

Bold in parts but escapable.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Have I Ever Told You", 2 metres left of the head of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger, 1985

11
16 * Soft SheIl Trad 35m

Thrilling pitch at head of descent gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips, Stephen Burke. Easter, 1985

12
8 Hatehakea Trad 30m

Juggy wall just left of the creek.

FA: Michael Hampton, Jeff Robertson, Rhyl Shaw, 2000

13

An entertaining problem with an exciting finish; cruelly stolen from Ferret.

Start: Start at the steep flake on the left side of the overhanging wall left of the obvious chimney/cleft.

FA: Simon Mentz, James Falla, 1989

14
26 ** Bad Boys Sport 15m, 6

Demanding route up overhanging wall right of "The Boys That Were Naughty". Boulder to or stick-clip first bolt. One of the bolts is actually a peg; probably should be replaced with a bolt.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1994

15

Somewhat contrived.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Stuart Imer, 1991

16
21 Turtle Diary Trad 15m

Not the most appealing route here. Thin seam at edge of chimney cleft, 2 metres left of "Tortology" until it meets the cleft. Heave around right and up.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christine Freestone, 1993

17
23 ** Tortology Trad 25m

Quite thin climbing up a steely-grey "slab". Take lots of small wires.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, 1983

18
20 ** Tortoise Trad 50m

The vague arete 6 metres right of the chimney-cleft. Originally done as two pitches but pitch two is rarely repeated and is described separately ("Turning Turtle") There is a rap anchor above YTTDF

FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills, 1981

19
25 ** Yurtle the Turtle Mixed 25m, 1

Sustained and intricate climbing on the immaculate wall right of "Tortoise".

FA: James Falla, Simon Mentz, 1989

20

Used to be graded 27, it is probably easy for 26. The obvious finish to this great route. Instead of veering off left after the first bolt continue straight up past a second bolt. Both bolts are new (2012) and there is a rap anchor above.

FA: Steve Monks, 1993

21
19 Snail Trad 50m

Good first pitch but not much known about second pitch.

Start: Start at short chimney with rotten chockstone right of the smooth wall.

  1. 25m (19) Up onto rotten chockstone and take left-hand line to terrace.

  2. 25m (19) Move up right and climb diagonal crack-line.

FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills, 1981

22
18 * Slug Trad 50m

Again, a good first pitch and vaguely described second pitch. Start at the chimney as for "Snail".

  1. 25m (18) Onto the rotten chockstone and take right-hand line to terrace.

  2. 25m (18) Up a series of walls to the top.

FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills, 1981

23

Gain the right-leading flake by a traverse left from the easy ramp. Up the line and exit vertically to the belay ledge.

Start: Start 8 metres right of "Slug"

FA: Kieran Loughran, Stephen Bourke, Heather Phillips. Easter, 1985

24
20 * Floaties Trad 40m

A very fine pitch. The unpopular second pitch is written up separately.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Kevin Lindorff, 1983

25
22 Floaties Part II Trad 25m

The original second pitch of "Floaties" is much harder than the first and is not popular though it's not too bad. Start on the ledge a few metres right of the belay on "Floaties", beneath the right-hand end of the roofs. There used to be a stump hereabouts.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, 1983

26
23 An Other Trad 25m

Contrived route with some bolts just right of "Tortoise".

FA: Geoff Little, 2000

27
20 Turning Turtle Trad 25m

This is the rarely done second pitch of "Tortoise"

Start: Start at the belay at the top of "Tortoise".

FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills, 1981

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.