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Nice area of mostly trad routes. Faces SSW so is good for summer until 3-4pm.

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.


As of mid-2017 the waterworks track gate is open at Glenelg River Road. Park at the waterworks weir (-37.357796, 142.217157). Cross creek and follow cairns along creek. Tortise wall is next to the main creek. A line of cairns branches (left) up the steep north side of the gully. Don't go this way (towards Ruined Castle) - stay next to (or in) the creek. ~15-20 mins walk.

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Grade Route

Climb the weakness to the overhang and move right to the arete. Up to ledge and walk off.

Start: At the left-hand side of the wall is an orange recess. This climb was originally called 'Golden Gaytime'.

FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1991

Bold, with a crux close to the ground with a nearby tree ready to puncture your kidneys.

Start on the left side of an arete at the left side of the cliff, 10 metres left of the flake of Aimless Blade.

When over the bulge, reach right and climb straight up the wall above.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1983

Seamed corner right of "Me Old Mate Darth", then wall to overlap. Step right onto slabby dish and up.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1991

Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left side of cliff.

  1. 15m (16) Climb the flake and move up to a tree.

  2. 30m (14) Step left and up thin cracks. Step right to a break in the overhang, pull over and go up.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Gary Wills, 1981

Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree.

Start: Start about 25 metres right of "Aimless Blade" ata wide crack.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman Easter, 1988

Obvious orange corner starting off a ledge, just a few metres right of "Hot Cross".

Up technical corner to middle of roof and traverse easily left to stance. Scramble off left to rap tree on Hot Cross. There was originally a second pitch up corner and bulge but it adds little value.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Peter Watling, 1981

A whimsical journey. Start 3 metres right of "Little Escapes" at a thin line just left of arete.

Thin line then step right to shallow corner on arete. Up corner to ledge just right of large roof. Step left above the roof (?large cam handy) and climb leftwards up the face.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Ian Anger, 1985

Enjoyable. Start just right of Vasco below a crack.

Up to and up crack. Over bulge and easily up to a ledge. Now straight up wall above. Move left and up to finish.

FA: Meg Sleeman & Kieran Loughran, 1988

Bold in parts but escapable.

Start 3 metres right of Have I Ever Told You, 2 metres left of the head of the gully.

Go straight up the wall to a horizontal break below a thin seam up a smooth slab. Traverse 3 metres right along the break then go up the face via a scary rock-over. Continue directly up to obvious right-leaning corner. Climb corner and step left. Hard moves up shallow diagonal groove and then go straight up the wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Ian Anger, 1985

Thrilling pitch at head of descent gully.

Climb the left edge of the slab to a tree. Bridge short corner behind tree to ledge. Hand-traverse right to the undercut arete which is followed to the top.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips & Stephen Burke. Easter, 1985

Juggy wall just left of the creek.

Start at shallow corner by creek and climb just left of the arete. At the big ledge move left and continue to the top.

FA: Michael Hampton, Jeff Robertson & Rhyl Shaw, 2000

An entertaining problem with an exciting finish; cruelly stolen from Ferret.

Start at the steep flake on the left side of the overhanging wall left of the obvious chimney/cleft.

tart up the flake and finish up the thin seam.

FA: Simon Mentz & James Falla, 1989

Demanding route up overhanging wall right of "The Boys That Were Naughty". Boulder to or stick-clip first bolt. One of the bolts is actually a peg; probably should be replaced with a bolt.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1994

Somewhat contrived.

Bridge the cleft right of Bad Boys for a few moves then traverse left along the horizontal (peg runner) to finish as for Bad Boys.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Stuart Imer, 1991

Highly recommended. Climb finger/hand crack to cleft. Funky 3D climbing gains the upper corner. Well protected with a standard rack. Descent via anchor above Yurtle Direct.

FA: Geordie Webb & Jessica Mcmahon, 20 Jan

Not the most appealing route here. Thin seam at edge of chimney cleft, 2 metres left of "Tortology" until it meets the cleft. Heave around right and up.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christine Freestone, 1993

Quite thin climbing up a steely-grey "slab". Take lots of small wires.

Thin seam up grey face right of chimney-cleft.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1983

The enjoyable vague arete 6 metres right of the chimney-cleft to the terrace. Originally done as two pitches but pitch two is rarely repeated and is described separately (Turning Turtle) There is a rap anchor above YTTDF

FA: Ed Neve & Gary Wills, 1981

This is the exciting but rarely done second pitch of Tortoise.

Start at the belay at the top of Tortoise. Move right and up to the right side of the distinct prow. Traverse left below the prow and up the corner above.

FA: Ed Neve & Gary Wills, 1981

Contrived route with some bolts just right of "Tortoise".

FA: Geoff Little, 2000

Sustained and intricate climbing on the immaculate wall right of "Tortoise". Climb the best bit of the wall past a bolt then veer left to easier ground.

FA: James Falla & Simon Mentz, 1989

Used to be graded 27, it is probably easy for 26. The obvious finish to this great route. Instead of veering off left after the first bolt continue straight up past a second bolt. Both bolts are new (2012) and there is a rap anchor above.

FA: Steve Monks, 1993

Good first pitch but not much known about second pitch.

Start: Start at short chimney with rotten chockstone right of the smooth wall.

  1. 25m (19) Up onto rotten chockstone and take left-hand line to terrace.

  2. 25m (19) Move up right and climb diagonal crack-line.

FA: Ed Neve & Gary Wills, 1981

Again, a good first pitch and vaguely described second pitch. Start at the chimney as for "Snail".

  1. 25m (18) Onto the rotten chockstone and take right-hand line to terrace.

  2. 25m (18) Up a series of walls to the top.

FA: Ed Neve & Gary Wills, 1981

Start at ramp 8 metres right of Slug. Gain the right-leading flake by a traverse left from the easy ramp. Up the line and exit vertically to the belay ledge.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Stephen Bourke & Heather Phillips. Easter, 1985

A very fine pitch. The unpopular second pitch is written up separately.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

The original second pitch of "Floaties" is much harder than the first and is not popular though it's not too bad. Start on the ledge a few metres right of the belay on "Floaties", beneath the right-hand end of the roofs. There used to be a stump hereabouts.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran & Keith Egerton, 1983


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