A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran
Campbell GomeThe size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1.
Victoria Range Road
8 in Crag
- 1.1. Family Wall 4 in Crag
- 1.2. Norman Neve Memorial Wall 3 in Crag
- 1.3. Roadside Arete Boulders 1 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Victoria Range Road 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
access issues
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
1.1. Family Wall 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
description
Dark, reddish-brown slab with a crack up the middle that can be seen up through the trees past two large boulders. (3 routes).
There is also a big orange cave 400 metres south of 'Family Wall', obvious from road, with 1 climb.
approach
Drive south along the 'Victoria Range' Road from Goat Track for 2 kilometres.
Approx GR 160758 (Victoria Range 1:25000)
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Christopher
The left end of the slab on thin holds with virtually no protection. FA: Garry wills & Greg davies, 1989 | 20 R | 16m | |||||
| 2 |
Elise
The face just right of where the crack splits the face. FA: Peter Megens & Isa Davies, 1989 | 13 | 16m | |||||
| 3 |
Matilda
Go up at the right end of the face and through weakness in small bulge. FA: Richard Evans & Dave Cherry, 1989 | 14 | 16m | |||||
|
The big orange cave is 400 metres south of Family wall. | ||||||||
| 5 |
Eats Dogs And Children
Unpleasant climbing. Start on left side of rib left of the cave. Up rib and veer right via a small roof. FA: Melanie & James McIntosh, 1991 | 19 | 35m | |||||
1.2. Norman Neve Memorial Wall 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
description
A distinct 20 metre high pinnacle close to the road.
approach
Drive 3 km south on the 'Victoria Range' Road from the Goat Track junction.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Terminal Cough
Start on the north side of the pinnacle at the left end. Up to the left crack and on to the top on rounded holds. FA: Dave Cherry & Richard evans, 1989 | 17 | 20m | |||
| 2 |
Greyhounds In Space
The right end of the north face. Up to the righthand crack and up it. FA: Isa Davis & Peter Megens, 1989 | 17 | 20m | |||
| 3 |
The Good, The Bad, And The Norman
Up the south side of the pinnacle. FA: Garry wills & Greg davies, 1989 | 17 | 20m | |||
1.3. Roadside Arete Boulders 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
description
Easy access from the car.
approach
Drive 4.8 km south on the 'Victoria Range' Road from the Goat Track junction to two boulders on the west side of road. This is 1.8 km south of Norman Neve Memorial Wall.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Roadside Arete
Follow the roadside arete on the left boulder and finish up a hand crack on the right. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1991 | 19 | 10m | |||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 13 | Elise | 16m | 1.1. Family Wall | |||
| 14 | Matilda | 16m | 1.1. Family Wall | |||
| 17 | Greyhounds In Space | 20m | 1.2. Norman Neve Memorial Wall | |||
| Terminal Cough | 20m | 1.2. Norman Neve Memorial Wall | ||||
| The Good, The Bad, And The Norman | 20m | 1.2. Norman Neve Memorial Wall | ||||
| 19 | Eats Dogs And Children | 35m | 1.1. Family Wall | |||
| Roadside Arete | 10m | 1.3. Roadside Arete Boulders | ||||
| 20 R | Christopher | 16m | 1.1. Family Wall |