A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Victoria Range Track 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

1.1. Rhino's Horn 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zebra Crossing 14Trad 27m
2 ** Rataxas 17Trad 23m
3 Rataxas, Direct Variant 10Trad 15m

1.2. World's End 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Not With A Bangla But A Whymper 6Trad 47m
2 Little Round Jug 14Trad 43m
3 Fiddling On The Roof 17Trad 17m
4 Indecent Exposure 12Trad 55m
5 Winter's Tale 14Trad 55m
6 Winterreise 12Trad 50m
7 Menlove Edwards Meets Conan Doyle 8Trad 77m
8 Lost Tribes 17Trad 18m
9 Iago 11Trad 65m
10 Gibraltar 17Trad 17m
11 Mur Y Niwl 16Trad 56m
12 Escape From The Orcs 15Trad 75m
13 Mordac 16Trad 25m
14 Guns And Greenbacks Variant Start 15Trad 35m
15 Topographic Oceans 17 M1Aid 70m
16 One Armed Bandit 20 M0Aid 55m
17 The Third Man 13Trad 75m
18 Campbell Mercerless 13Trad 75m
19 A Faint Aroma Of Performing Seals 11Trad 72m
20 He's From Nelson 15Trad 25m
21 Show No Mercer 15Trad 30m
22 Freeing The Animals 15Trad 25m
23 Crocodile Fodder 10Trad 30m
24 Overwork Blues 13Trad 27m
25 Power And Politics 16Trad 22m
26 Pressure Drop 14Trad 27m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
6 Not With A Bangla But A Whymper Trad 47m 1.2. World's End
8 Menlove Edwards Meets Conan Doyle Trad 77m 1.2. World's End
10 Rataxas, Direct Variant Trad 15m 1.1. Rhino's Horn
Crocodile Fodder Trad 30m 1.2. World's End
11 A Faint Aroma Of Performing Seals Trad 72m 1.2. World's End
Iago Trad 65m 1.2. World's End
12 Indecent Exposure Trad 55m 1.2. World's End
Winterreise Trad 50m 1.2. World's End
13 Campbell Mercerless Trad 75m 1.2. World's End
Overwork Blues Trad 27m 1.2. World's End
The Third Man Trad 75m 1.2. World's End
14 Zebra Crossing Trad 27m 1.1. Rhino's Horn
Little Round Jug Trad 43m 1.2. World's End
Pressure Drop Trad 27m 1.2. World's End
Winter's Tale Trad 55m 1.2. World's End
15 Escape From The Orcs Trad 75m 1.2. World's End
Freeing The Animals Trad 25m 1.2. World's End
Guns And Greenbacks Variant Start Trad 35m 1.2. World's End
He's From Nelson Trad 25m 1.2. World's End
Show No Mercer Trad 30m 1.2. World's End
16 Mordac Trad 25m 1.2. World's End
Mur Y Niwl Trad 56m 1.2. World's End
Power And Politics Trad 22m 1.2. World's End
17 ** Rataxas Trad 23m 1.1. Rhino's Horn
Fiddling On The Roof Trad 17m 1.2. World's End
Gibraltar Trad 17m 1.2. World's End
Lost Tribes Trad 18m 1.2. World's End
17 M1 Topographic Oceans Aid 70m 1.2. World's End
20 M0 One Armed Bandit Aid 55m 1.2. World's End