Victoria Range Track Guide

Start in the gully at the right-hand end of the main wall. Up the gully to the block on the right. Hand traverse left above the lower overhang to the bottom of a flake. Layback the flake and the crack above, step left and up the short chimney.

As much excitement as being chased by a herd of rampaging rhinos. Start near the left end of the cliff. Up the black groove until it is possible to traverse awkwardly right to an exposed pedestal in the middle of the overhanging wall. Follow the shallow groove up and right until jugs lead steeply to the top.

Start as for Rataxas and go straight up.

Left of the cave/boulder where the pad meets the cliff is a big wall bounded on its right by a gaping chasm. Start at the gaping chasm. Primeval bridging and chimneying with sparse protection. Avoid the pterodactyl nesting season.

1. 25m Scramble up into the chasm and chimney up outside the tree ferns. Move up and into a wide groove in the left wall. where a bridging stance can be taken.

2. 27m Continue up the chasm to belay below the enormous chockstone. 3 30m Exit up the cave on the left to a gully. Climb a crack on the left wall and finish up easy jugs.

Start just left of Menlove Edwards Meets Conan Doyle. Follow the crack-line, step left at the top to pull through overhang. Belay here or step to the right. Scramble up and off or abseil.

In the middle of the wall left of Lost Tribes is a leaning formation that faces left. The base of the corner is about 7 metres up.

1. 37m 11 A thin crack leads diagonally right into the corner. Climb the lower third of the corner until a rising traverse can be made across the right wall to the arete which is followed to a good stance.

2. 28m Move right off the ledge and climb the overhang via jagged crack. Jugs to the top.

There is a huge block 60 metres downhill from Iago. On the NE side of the block is a steep slab. Step off the ground just left of centre of the face. Traverse right to the centre of the face and up. Allegedly adequate protection.

The Wall of Mists. A superb traverse. Start at the base of the big corner left of Iago.

1. 26m 16 Traverse left to the arete keeping to the top of the slab where it abuts the overhanging left wall of the corner.

2. 30m The juggy arete above leaves you on top of the big pinnacle. It is advisable to stay roped for the step across the gap to the main cliff top.

At the left end of the Mur Y Niwl slab is a short wall; start in the middle of this.The second and third pitches may be the same as Mur Y Niwl.

1. 25m Bouldery up wall to break at the start of the slab. Pull onto slab and step left to arete. Up to large platform.

2. 35m Step right and work your way through overhangs until rope drag stops progress.

3. 15m Up steep wall on fragile holds then jump chasm.

Sustained bucket-pulling, excellent rock and pro. Start from block under arete left of Escape From The Orcs. Up to first horizontal, traverse left a few metres to buckets and pull up to next horizontal. Step left and continue to left end of small ledge below smooth headwall. Finish directly and steeply above where smooth and featured rock meet. Rap off or finish up other routes.

Steep on brilliant rock with outrageous holds. Start 15 metres right of Mordoc is a lovely bulging orange wall. Need to check this. Climb obvious left-leading diagonal until about the 40 metre mark, then head up diagonally right.

Left of Escape From The Orcs is an overhanging wall with a sandy patch beneath it. At the left end of this wall is a thin crack heading up and left.Follow the crack-line all the way to obvious thin ledge.

Left of Mordoc is a wall that is approximately 50 metres wide and 70 metres high, split by a strong diagonal line running up left through a roof at 20 metres. Takes the major diagonal line all the way with 3 rests on the second pitch. The wall height and climb length don't really add up.

An early attempt on the diagonal line ended with a large fall. Start 20 metres to the left of the diagonal line. Up to left edge of roof. Continue straight up to join the diagonal line.

Start as for Guns and Greenbacks variant start.

1. 35m Up to roof, pull through, traverse right to strong diagonal line.

2. Step right and up to good sling. Straight up then tend right for line of least resistance. Loose rock at top.

Left of the wall with Topographic Oceans is a large buttress with a sentry box and crack line on its arete. Start at the sentry box. One rest on each pitch.

1. 30m 20 M0 Up the sentry box (fixed wire), through the roof, then up the obvious flake crack above to a large belay on the left.

2. 25m Traverse right to the arete then up the crack. Step right onto upper wall and up.

Start directly below the concavity. Straight up the wall taking the vague rib just right of the central concavity

Start as for Winterreise.

1. 25m Climb the wall diagonally left to a ledge. Pull left over a bulge and follow a crack up left to a section of smooth compact orange rock. Move up into the smooth groove for a few metres then move left to gain a crack which continues steeply up left. Exit right onto a ramp.

2. 40m Traverse right along the ramp to its ending at a big alcove. Climb down and across the alcove to the bottom of its far side. Very steep moves on dubious rock lead to the top.

An outstanding route. Start at the right side of the wall, just before the undercut section.

1. 30m 12 Traverse right on the lip of the undercut to the arete, Straight up the arete to a ledge on the right.

2. 25m Move left off the ledge and climb the starting corner and the continuation crack to the top.

About 15 metres right of the Indecent Exposure arete is a huge double-roof system that looks like Centurion on Scotland's Ben Nevis (Now we all know what that looks like, don't we?) Start at a small roof system 8m right of the double roof system. Follow the left-leaning flake through the break and up the overhanging wall. Step right and pull up strenuously on good holds and up.

Classy. About 25m right of Indecent Exposure is a large expanse of slab bounded on the left by a leaning corner. Start just right of the base of the leaning corner. Climb the slab to the big flake and continue up to the main, leaning corner. Move right to a small flake on the slab, then straight up to the corner and follow it up and right to it's end. Traverse 2 metres right across a water streak and then go directly up.

Start at a pronounced rib about 20 metres right of Little Round Jug. Climb the rib and continue directly up the slab.

Start at the right edge of the wall.

1. 30m 13 Climb the bulging wall and traverse right to the tree(?). Continue up the groove to pass left of a roof. When confronted by appalling jugs, move right and up to belay.

2. 40m Up through further surreal jugs to the top.

Start as for The Third Man.

1. 45m Up to the tree then step right and go up to the right end of the roof and then go directly up. 2, 30m Jugs to the top.

Start left of the low roof with the double-trunked tree (which may no longer be there).

1. 42m 11 Step of from the large boulder and climb the chossy wall, passing 6m left of the double tree (if it's still there). Up to the prominent V-chimney, climb the bulge on the left and up the wall above to a belay.

2. 30m Jugs to the top.

50 metres left of The Third Man is a gnarly buttress with a large roof on its left side and on its front are two horizontal cracks running out to a knob on the right arete. Start on the left side of the buttress, 2 metres right of a blocky ramp. Sandbagging with a smile.

Up to seam, on up to the left end of the two traverse cracks. Traverse right to the knob then step back left and climb the very steep left-leaning crack.

20 metres left of He's From Nelson is a grey buttress with a shallow, left-leaning overlap line on its left edge.

Start at the base of the overlap. Go straight up and finish up the overhanging crack 1 metre left of the deep groove at the top.

There is a steep, thin crack near the middle of the wall, to the right of the orange section. Up the crack for 6m, step right and up to the overlap. Pull up, step left and through the next overlap.

Obvious line of holds 10 metres left of Freeing The Animals

Start at the short, shallow corner. Up the corner, step left and up the corner above. Step right at roof and up.

The left-leading diagonal crack in the arete/face 2 metres right of Overwork Blues. Up the crack then step right to the steep wall and flake. Up on god holds moving left to the arete.

Bouldery start! The left-leading diagonal right of Overwork Blues. The diagonal then the slab just right of the gutter. Step left at the roof and up.