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Table of contents

1. Victoria Range 2,182 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.268039, -37.345273

Access Issues:

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

1.1. Eureka Area 155 routes in Crag

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.313457, -37.216658

Description:© (nmonteith)

Far northern end of the 'Victoria' Ranges. Has a collection of the most brilliant mid-twenties climbs in the country.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

All of the crags lie above the old vehicle track to Yanganaginj Njawi (Emu's Foot). This track may be closed at times making for substantially longer approaches. When Matthew's Track (seasonal 4WD) is open, it can be used until below the chosen cliff, shortening the length of the walk. The Jananginj Jawi track is gained from Red Rock Road about 5km north of Muline Creek. Matthew's Track is a further 1 km north.

1.1.1. Hidden Buttress 1 route in Cliff

All Trad

This 45m high buttress is located up and right of The Lost World, directly behind a nice steep orange face (kind of looks like it should be part of that cliff from the road until you start walking up to it and realise it's separated). Climbing potential here is sadly limited however - but perhaps a little more development is available.


Walk up to The Lost World and rather than cutting left at the slab keep going up and right up the gulley to the detatched buttress.

Descent Notes:

Walk off the back and down the gulley.


Discovered by Jurgen Bollenger while waiting for Anthony Pattison on the way down after a great day at Lost World - we thought it was a free-standing pillar of about twice the height. Oh well.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Book of leaves

A fantastic outing up a good line with good gear and pretty good quality rock (for a new route!). Starts on the lower side of the buttress, on the RHS at a steep crack. Up this and into the corner where you will be rewarded with lots of fun, interesting, sustained bridging for the grade with good gear. Pitch at the ledge (about 25m) or continue on to the top.

Located at GPS points S37 11.365 E142 16.268 @ 510m above sea level.

FA: Josef Goding & Ross Richards (Alts), 2014

11Trad 40m 2

1.1.2. Eureka Wall 22 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.277062, -37.194314

Description:© (nmonteith)

Steve Monks had a verrrry good month in February 1991.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Go about 3 km along Jananginj Jawi track to the highest point in the road and follow a rough, cairned track up the hillside.

35 minute walk up the hill.

It's worth going a further 200 metres(approx.) east along the road from the parking area to get a view of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jimmy John's Direct

Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths.

FFA: Phil Gruber and Jimmy Gruber, 2014

16Trad 70m
2 Nose Hairs

Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's.

FA: Jimmy, lily & phil Gruber

10Trad 100m
3 Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag. The next crack left of Newton's Law, 3 metres left of Maxwell's Demon, move left at ledge and continue straight up.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

17Trad 50m
4 Maxwell's Demon

A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992

20Trad 20m
5 ** Newton's Law

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, 1991

24Trad 30m
6 *** Diminishing Returns (Top Half)

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

23Trad 30m
7 Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns

Link up - Climb Darwins Theory to the top of the first pitch (obvious big break) the head up Diminishing returns for the last couple of bolts to anchor

8 ** Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches)

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18.

Start: Start as for Newton's Law.

  1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break.

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

18Trad 55m 2
9 Darwin's Theory pitch 3

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

23Trad 10m
10 * Foucault's Pendulum

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's 'Theory' to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimede's Principle, finishing as for that route.

FA: Ross Taylor, Adam Demmert, 2009

24Trad 45m
11 Diminishing Returns

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

27Sport 30m
12 * Archimedes Principle P1 22Trad 20m
13 *** Archimedes' Principle

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. Often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

  1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

  2. 30m (26) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

  3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this.

FA: Keith Lockwood (p1), Steve Monks (p2&3), 1991

26Mixed 60m 3, 2
14 ** String Theory

Pitch 1 - 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

Pitch 2 - 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

Start: Start as for AP

FFA: Adam Demmert, Malcolm Matherson, 2014

27Mixed 80m 2, 8
15 Pythagoras' Theorem P1 20Trad 10m
16 *** Pythagoras' Theorem

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

  1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

  2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood (1), Steve Monks (2&3), 1991

26Mixed 50m 2, 3
17 * Ockham's Razor

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2009

26Mixed 40m, 5
18 *** General Relativity

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

FA: 2014

30Trad 48m
19 *** Pavlov's Dog

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

Set by kp, 2014

29Sport 14
20 Cats & Dogs

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

FA: clean cut phil

28Mixed 10
21 ** Schrodinger's Cat

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above.

FA: Steve Monks, Martin Scheel, 1991

25Mixed 45m, 4
22 *** Vege Maths

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

FA: Toby Pola & Kent Paterson

25Mixed 30m, 8

1.1.3. Eureka Towers 4 routes in Crag

All Trad
Approach:© (nmonteith)

Approach as for 'Eureka Wall' and continue uphill for a further 10 minutes on a rough pad.

routes are desribed from right-to-left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Return to Gariwerd

Lovely climbing with excellent protection. Much easier than it looks.

  1. 22m (22) Up thin broken crack right of "Hunter Gatherer", step left then straight up the grey streak.

  2. 25m (21) Sounds quite good. Hand traverse straight left from the belay for 13 metres under the roof. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds are more spaced. Finally pull the roof at a weakness and continue up easy, low angle rock to a natural anchor. Two rappels off slung features back to the ground. "5.10+".

FA: Louise Shepherd, Simon Mentz (P2 by Joshua Janesish), 2003

22Trad 22m 2
2 Hunter Gatherer

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

FA: Kieth Lockwood, Enga Lokey, 1991

12Trad 50m
3 Jardwadjaliland

Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, Enga Lokey, 1991

20 RTrad 35m
4 * Tchingal the Emu

Start: Start down left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  1. 15m (17) Up the corner to the ledges just left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  2. 35m (25) Up to the flake that crosses the roof, swing out along this then up the smooth headwall to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Damien Carol, 1991

25Trad 50m 2

1.1.4. Clean Cut Walls 26 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 142.277970, -37.195236

Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice sport climbing venue near Eureka. There is a good range of grades but the cliff is best 23 and above. If you have not been to Eureka, please do yourself a favour and go as it's an amazing cliff.


Two prominent orange tiers lower and left of Eureka Walls. Gets shade at 3pm.

Access Issues:

Please respect all tagged projects.


Walk in as per Eureka. Before Eureka turn left at obvious orange walls. Welcome to Clean Cuts. The upper tier requires access from scrambling up grey jug wall (grade 3?). Please use fixed line on right side. If dangerous please notify Kent Paterson. Please use fixed ropes when scrambling around. An abseil station is located next to Shallow Waters start. Alternatively you can walk in via left or right hand side.


Please do not bring groups here. The access is not suitable for beginners.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Highly Evolved Buttress

The proud bulging orange buttress that is first reached on the walk-in. The major line through the dark orange bulges on the left side is Highly Evolved.

1 Project - Son Of Clean Cut

Up grey wall around corner from Highly Evolved.

FA: Jimmy Gruber, 2014

Sport Project
2 ** Highly Evolved

Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman. Awesome either way.

FA: @kentpaterson,Andrew Anderson, 2014

27Sport 30m, 11
3 * Stray Sheep

Fab warm up. Starts up crack system.

FA: @kentpaterson,@adam_demmert, 2014

18Sport 30m, 13
4 * Sea Within A Sea

The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab.

FA: Kent Paterson,Andrew Anderson

23Sport 30m, 11

Upper Tier

The following routes are on the major cliffline above High Evolved. Access by scrambling up grey jug wall (grade 3?). Please use fixed line on right side. Please use fixed ropes when scrambling around. An abseil station is located next to Shallow Waters start. Alternatively you can walk in via left or right hand side.

5 * Sleep No More

Great pocketed corner line. Accessed via fixed rope.

FA: Emi K

6 Chinese Bombs

Left side of grey face. Bouldery at start. Drop a grade or two if you bridge up the tree.

FA: @kentpaterson, 2015

16Sport 10m, 4
7 Plat Du Jour

Starts on right side of grey face. Bridge up tree to grab first jug.

FA: Emi K

8 Project - CLOSED (Phil Neville)

Starts 3m left of Trouble Cut. Unlikely.

Set by @kentpaterson

9 Trouble Cut

On Upper Tier. Orange wall left of grey seam. Has chain on second bolt.

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

23Sport 14m, 7
10 * Fratin Brothers

Grey seam on Upper Tier

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

24Sport 15m, 9
11 * Cut Throat

Starts few meters right of Fratin Brothers off the block. Up via thin side pulls.

FFA: @adam_demmert, 2014

24Sport 12m, 7
12 Brighten the Corners

The bolted corner.

FA: @kentpaterson, 2015

16Sport 10m, 7
13 Open project

Thin face 3m right if Brighten the Corners.

14 * The Man Who Sold The World

Two pitches on left side of orange buttress. Pretty much the Pilot Error of the Gramps (i.e. novelty photo route).

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

25Sport 26m 2
15 Project - Shallower Water

Does all the hard stuff of Shallow Water then adds another 10m more of hard climbing in stunning position.

Set by @kentpaterson, 2014

Sport Project
16 ** Shallow Water

Up on upper tier. Through water streak on beautiful orange face. Has chain on third bolt.

Set by @kentpaterson, 2014

28Sport 25m, 10
17 Project - Observations Of The Scene

Starts as Two Birdies then moves left up lovely orange face.

Sport Project 25m
18 * Two Birdies

Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic.

FA: @kentpaterson,@adam_demmert, 2014

23Sport 20m, 10
19 Cuttting The Grass

Straight up the crack. Enjoy the great water polished rock.

FA: Kent Paterson,Andrew Anderson, 2014

22Sport 26m, 11
20 ** The CCC (Clean Cut Clan)

Starts as per TB then goes right after rootlet across slab and up steep wall via a hard crux. May be easier than graded

FFA: @adam_demmert,Mike Tomkins, 2014

25Sport 25m, 13
21 * Upper Cut

Starts as per VT. Big traverse left. Place 1.2m sling on bolt no. 6

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

22Sport 20m, 12
22 New Normal

Start as per VT, after 4th bolt veer left past 4 more bolts.

FA: @kentpaterson

20Sport 15m, 10
23 Villiers Terrace

Bolted Water streaks on right side of fixed lines. Shared start to other routes.

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

18Sport 15m
24 Deadly Rhythm

...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

23Sport 15m, 10
25 * Liberal Party

The far right. Starts on a slab.

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

21Sport 14m, 8
26 * Gerbil's Route

Starts on far right hand end of the Upper Tier of Clean Cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.

FA: @kentpaterson,@adam_demmert, 2014

23Sport 20m, 12

1.1.5. Alkali Tide Wall 1 route in Sector

All Trad

The existing route doesn't warrant the walk.


Follow the Eureka Wall track past the lower cliff band to the second, larger cliff band. Walk right 300-400 metres below this cliff to the right-hand end. (Turning left instead of right would take you to 'Clean Cut Walls', a much more promising destination).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Alkali Tide

Worth doing for the second pitch experience (not!).

Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.

  1. 30m (16) Boulder the roof then up to ledge. Slither up through overhang. Up 1 metre right of faded guano streak. Up and past left end of grassy ledge (slings). Belay on arete.

  2. 20m (1) Up.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

16Trad 50m 2

1.1.6. The Red Sail 2 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A stunning orange pillar east of and below "Eureka Wall" and clearly visible from the Jananginj Jawi track. A vague animal pad leads up to the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Bristol Fashion

The left arete of the buttress.

  1. 20m (22) Up "Sailing Away" for 15 metres then traverse left past a BR to a HBB on left arete.

  2. 25m (26) Up the blunt arete above the belay and up to a rest at a huge flake. Up to the roof (crux) and climb rightward across this to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Damien Carol, 1991

26Mixed 45m 2, 1
2 ** Sailing Away

The spectacular right arete.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

23Mixed 45m, 3

1.1.7. Worthless Wall 1 route in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

The name appears apt. There are vast quantities of un-appealing rock with one or two better bits poking out.

Approach:© (kieranl)

This crag lies above the junction of Syphon Road and Matthew Track. It used to be approached along a 4WD track starting 75 metres along Matthew Track from this junction. This track no longer exists. Instead, from the gate on Matthew Track walk south-west into the bush toward the most reasonable-looking piece of rock for about 30 minutes. Fragments of the old track may be encountered en-route.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roaming Hands

Only worthwhile crack and is on left side of a steep, clean wall. Scramble up to a terrace to start. Climb crack and abseil from tree.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1980

12Trad 35m

1.1.8. Weirs Creek 32 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.294552, -37.208216

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some good moderate sport and easy trad

Description:© (kieranl)

Weirs Creek is the main drainage east of Emus' Foot. The lowest crag on 'Weirs Creek' looks like a pile of choss. However, there are some good things tucked away. The "Disparate Housewives Wall" offers excellent moderate sport-climbing and there are some other things scattered about and some other potential.

The bottom of "Disparate Housewives Wall" seeps heavily for a long time after rain so be prepared to bail water from holds during spring. This wall faces west and comes into the sun about 1 PM (Daylight-saving time). An early start is advised in summer.

The creek water is safe to drink and on a warm day is very nice just before the 10 minutes uphill back to the car. To help keep it that way please take care with toileting. A trowel is in place at the base of the cliff to help bury faeces. Please descend the track a little and then go across the hillside away from the creek to do your business. Dig a good hole.

Also, please carry out any used toilet or tissue paper that doesn't require burial. Take some plastic bags to carry the used paper.


Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Matter

Pleasant face near the top of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010

17Sport 10m, 5
2 Open Project

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

Sport 15m
3 Smoky and the Banditos LHV

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

23Sport 20m, 9
4 * Smoky and the Banditos

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Catherine de Vaus, 2012

25Sport 20m
5 * Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

FA: Adam Demmert, 2012

Sport Project
6 Special Circumstances (Open Project)

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

Trad 15m
7 Grey Area

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

16Trad 12m
8 Contact

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2010

16Trad 12m
9 Return Of The Native

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

Start: Start at the left side of the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

9Trad 50m
10 Sleeper Service

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

  2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman (alt), 2010

15Sport 60m 2
11 Dumber Bay

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top.

The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly.

Start: Scramble out the ramp left od"Disparate Housewives" to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

20Sport 8m, 3
12 * Climber Wants a Wife

FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, 2012

23Sport 14m, 6
13 ** Disparate Housewives

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2010

19Sport 20m, 7
14 ** The Young And The Wrestlers

Start: Scramble up to orange ledge (bolt) Crank through pockets, clipping the bolt in the pocket. Finish up crack.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2011

19Sport 25m, 10
15 *** Hysteria Lane

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

11 bolts (not 10 as per guidebook.)

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

21Sport 25m, 11
16 Fumbles Route

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

23Sport 18m
17 ** Widow Of Opportunity

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch.

Start from ledge 2m above ground level, R of Hysteria Lane. Clip first bolt of 'Barefoot and Poignant', then traverse left and up arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

17Sport 25m, 10
18 ** Barefoot and Poignant

Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades.

Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2011

23Sport 20m, 10
19 Closed Project

Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...

Sport Project
20 * Fairies and Blutterfies

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. A little crumbly rock higher doesn't really detract.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2013

24Sport 20m, 9
21 ** Let it Burn!

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil,

23Sport 25m, 9
22 Bonobo

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

FA: M. Johnston

17Mixed 20m, 1
23 * Flail Furiously for Footholds

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

FA: M. Johnston, S. Holloway

26Sport 25m, 5
24 Mailorder Bribe

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

16Sport 15m, 6 West Side 8 routes in Crag
All Sport

Compact orange and grey wall on West side of Weirs Creek. Morning sun and afternoon shade.


New approach - As for Pocket Wall (Weirs Creek) - At end of Emus Foot (Jananginj Jawi) Track, turn right off the vehicle track (approx 200 metres down hill from gate after third 'speed' hump). Head diagonally left up towards the crag through open bush, crossing two creeks (second of which is normally running). At second creek, follow creek bed up to just below crags, then follow intermittent cairns up left to wall. Approximate walking time from gate at end of Emus Foot Track is 15 minutes

1.1.9. Yanganaginj Njawi 10 routes in Crag

All Trad
Access Issues:

The crag contains a major indigenous art site and climbing should not take place on any of the routes near the art site. 'Footless Emu' is probably far enough from the art-site to be climbed but it is strongly suggested that chalk not be used.


Follow the Jananginj Jawi track for 4 km and walk up to the huge red overhangs of the art site.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ants On Heat

Up the wall to diagonal ramp under the impressive headwall. Right along ramp then up chimney.

Start: About 50 metres left of "Carousel" the track swings up under an east-facing wall. Scramble up to the left end.

10Trad 19m
2 Carousel

Start: Chimney line, second line on left from where the cliff is reached.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Cunningham (alt), 1978

10Trad 45m
3 Centre Of The Magic Cleft

Start: First line on the left as the cliff is reached.

14Trad 40m
4 Slippery When Wet

Completely out of bounds behind the cage. Finger crack. Second line right of where the cliff is reached.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1978

20Trad 45m
5 Shivers Slab

Grey slab 100 metres right of "Slippery When Wet"

8Trad 70m
6 Dandelion Wine

Slab then chockstones just right of "Shiver's Slab".

14Trad 33m
7 * Standing Ovation

Flake crack on left edge of buttress right of 'Dandelion Wine'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Phillip Armstrong, Iain Sedgman, 1977

17Trad 30m
8 * Footless Emu

The best line on the cliff and far enough from the art site that climbing it shouldn't be a problem. Proobaly a good idea to leave the chalkbag behind though.

This was done just before cams were introduced and protecting the horizontal cracks on the traverse was difficult. A direct finish is begging.

On the right side of the outcrops is an orange corner leading to a roof.

FA: Rod Young, Peter Cunningham, 1978

20Trad 30m
9 Joy Elizabeth

Start by scrambling around to the top of the main cliff and aligning with the approach track. If you turn around towards the hillside, there should be a small buttress with a crack before you. The crack is it.

13Trad 20m
10 ** Rosetta Ridge

Classic bumbly route in great position. The approach just adds to the adventure.

It takes the massive whaleback ridge that is almost equidistant between "Gondwanaland" and "Red Sail" and can be approached from either.

FA: Keith Egerton, Gordon Talbett, 1978

3Trad 150m

1.1.10. Gondwanaland 19 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.285305, -37.198703

Description:© (nmonteith)

This shady large face has some very unique and sustained routes up remarkable grey rock in a similar, but easier style to nearby 'Eureka Wall'. Many of the routes feel like extended gritstone classics (but with better protection!).

Bring a spare rope for descent off the longer routes. A full trad rack should be carried, including some larger cams. Don't forget the botl plates!

The cliff comes into the shade quite early in the morning, and stays that way for the rest of the day. Perfect in summer, miserable and wet in winter.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Follow the Jananginj Jawi track for 4 km and go uphill to caged Aboriginal art site of Jananginj Jawi. Walk right along base of cliff for a few 100m until it is possible to head upwards. Follow vague track up and rightish to arrive at east facing large orange/grey wall. Walking time 20-30 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chasing the Sun

Orange slab split by thin seam and a great overhung finish. Located on separate buttress 100m left of the second short rock wall you reach on the walk up to the main cliff of 'Gondwanaland'. Bouldery start (RB) then right leading weakness to seam. Up this for 10m then skirt under orange roof and then thug back left across overhang to crux finish. Lower off last bolt or trad belay on ledge and epic walk-down descent. Four bolts plus natural gear to finger crack size. Really needs a lower-off anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Monique Forestier, Simon Carter, 2003

21Trad 20m
2 * Grit Life

bold face climb on jugs

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2003

16 RTrad 20m
3 * Up The Road

Ninety degree sharp arete with clean wall on right side about 40m right of 'Terra Incognita'. A short corner crack is climbed to a little ledge on the left, then launch up the pocketed arete with some fiddly pro. The final ten metres is jug city. 'Small' to medium gear and slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Michael Boniwell, 2003

18Trad 20m
4 Gibber

Start at the right leading ramp left of the prow. Up ramp easily then left. Up vertical wall on pockets, then easier climbing to crack system up headwall, finishing up overhanging crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1990

19Trad 45m
5 * Voss

Starts as for 'Gibber'. (1) 30m Up ramp then obvious flake crack. Continue up wall to stance. (2) 20m Up main groove to finish directly up headwall.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood (alts), Norm Booth, 1991

22Trad 50m
6 ** Terra Incognita

Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1990

23Trad 50m
7 ** Face the Dissection

Possibly Nick's finest new route? A long intricate and techincal wall with an exposed finish.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Montieth, 2002

24Trad 35m
8 ** Wild Iris

Magic pocket pulling sport route on immaculate rock. Would be amazing if longer. Starts 50m left of 'Gibber'. White pockets through bulge leads to spaced heucos on face. At third BR head right to BR then up juggy corner to rap chain. Keep an eye out for the bolts on the upper wall, they can be easy to miss!

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

18Trad 15m
9 * Wild Iris RHV / Wild Iris Right Hand Variant

At second BR traverse directly right on small pockets and little else. When your feet refuse to stay on, clip a BR then crank like crazy to gain monster pockets. Finish as for original line past last BR.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2002

20Trad 15m
10 Green Room

Leftwards leading easy pocketed corner just left 'Wild Iris'. At top of corner place wires in thin crack then swing out right desperatly onto arete and easily up this to natural; belay stance. Another pitch above on super jugs leads to top and walk off. Needs a lower-off.

FA: Steve Holloway

19Trad 35m
11 ** Face Off

The direct start to 'Faceless' past several RBs. Very long intricate face climbing. Be wary of long runout in the middle. One of Neil's longest ever sieges.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

26Trad 23m
12 * Faceless

thin face

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

25Trad 20m
13 ** Picking Plums

Starts 30m left of 'Wild Iris'. In the middle of the wall is several cracklines; this climbs the furthest right one, approx in the middle of the wall. Absorbing rounded holds and the steep angle keep you guessing right until the end. The gear is great however and a chain on top makes descent easy.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

19Trad 17m
14 Pineapple

Line 2m left of 'Picking Plums'. Similar sustained climbing up rounded cracks, but the rock is a little less perfect. Bring plenty of big cams. Traverse off right to chain or belay from natural bollards at top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

18Trad 17m
15 Baddie Traddie

This route is at ground level somewhere left of previous route. It has a left trending traverse under a roof, and splitter hand crack / left facing flake emerging from the left side of this roof. The start involves pulling on grass tufts!

FA: Neil Montetih, 2004

20Trad 25m
16 Rock Climb

Easy angled black hand crack corner 50m left of 'Gibber'. Second pitch climbs juggy face above. Not recommended.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

8Trad 60m
17 The Dragon’s Lair

This area is around 3-400m uphill of the existing routes, approach is by a short, loose and dirty corner. Up to high point in narrow gully to see the obvious thin ridgeline which looks somewhat like a dragon's back. This route starts on the left wall, at a point where there is an obvious horizontal break.

  1. 10m (8) Traverse along this (right) for 10m to belay below orange corner.

  2. 25m (17) Up delicately with good gear and good holds just watch the rock quality. Take your time and you will be fine.

  3. 30m (17) Continue up and left to pass massive cave on its right, both gear and holds thin out in the middle of this pitch. Belay about level with the top of the cave.

  4. 25m (12) Easily up to top. Scramble off just before the top of the pinnacle, to the south side, heading east through narrow gully. Retrace your path to the beginning.

FA: Joe Goding, Stephen Holloway, 2003

17Trad 90m 4
18 The Drifting

Start 3-4m right of arete about 20m uphill from 'Pineapple'. Up for 4m, right a little, then pretty much straight up. Wall is deceptively steep with good holds and gear. Scramble up right (looking out) to rap from sling around good bollard.

FA: Nina Cullen & Steve Holloway, 2003

15Trad 25m
19 Not Just a Pretty Face

A major cliff and pants splitting line. Start at top of ramp right of 'Gibber' and 'Face the Dissection'. Weave your way up and right, till tricky moves left allow you to gain the base of the crack. Blast up the widening crack past some slightly dodgy rock in places, but loads of good gear, till easier ground and finally a chain anchor is reached. Take a full rack including lots of big gear. Steve Holloway had his eye on this in '02 and added the rap chain, but never got his act together to actually climb it.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2007

22Trad 35m

1.1.11. The Lost World 37 routes in Crag

Trad and Sport
Approach:© (nmonteith)

Follow Jananginj Jawi track for 2km then follow cairned walking track until cairns run out then head left over the black slabs towards the tiered orange wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Orinoco Flow

Mind-blowing roof and arete.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

25Mixed 30m, 1
2 *** Orinoco Fill

Starts as per OF. Climb steep roof to large horizontal. Instead of climbing thin seam/arete move right onto streaked grey wall.

FA: Phil Gruber, 2014

25Trad 30m
3 * Malcolm and Andy's New route

2m right of LBL,

  1. 30m 23. Up flake over bulge past bolt, trending left through next bulges past fixed pin to sloping belay ledge.

  2. 10m 22 Straight up past bolt and continue up on horizontal breaks to absail chain. Rap off on a 70m just

FFA: Malcolm Matherson,Andy Schmutter, 2014

23Mixed 70m 2, 2
4 ** Little Boy Lost

The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.

  1. 15m (23) Sustained under-clinging leads to semi-hanging belay.

  2. 25m (24) From belay, go right, up, and back left, weaving around arete to belay below final roof.

  3. 15m (17) Step left, up, traverse right and up.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991

24Trad 55m 3
5 ** Eye's Wide Shut

Diabolical slab start followed by very continuous steep red wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2012

26Sport 25m, 8
6 ** A Space Odyssey Pitch 1

The gigantic roof just left of 'Little Boy Lost'.Looks like the prow of a battleship, as seen from the waterline.First pitch goes up to and second pitch underclings the upside-down roof arête. Pitches described separately. Black rounded arête immediately right of the chimney/gulch. You have to bridge up the gully to start, followed by awkward and off balance arete climbing.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

26Sport 30m, 8
7 ** A Space Odyssey PItch 2 Left Side

Super exposed upside-down roof-arête.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

27Sport 15m, 3
8 * The Obelisk

Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

27Sport 20m, 4
9 * Humboldt

Start up pockets as for 'Cosmos', then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 2003

21Trad 20m
10 ** Cosmos

Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof. Trad with some bolts.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

22Trad 20m
11 Round the Twist

Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack.

FFA: Jack Jane, 2011

18Trad 20m
12 ** Toucan

Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.

  1. 30m (19) Beautiful crack which bisects the otherwise smooth wall.When the angle eases, head up diagonally right to belay near arete.

  2. 30m (19) Step left to little orange corner.Verge right up wall and pull over roof. Traverse left along lip of the roof to the brink (fantastic exposure), then up headwall to top, finishing just left of little triangular summit overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tim Lockwood (alt), 2003

19Trad 60m 2
13 * Toucan Direct

Direct version of the 2nd pitch. Straight up instead of right

FFA: Malcolm Matheso, Anthony Patterson, 2012

22Trad 20m
14 *** Roraima

Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 2003

18Trad 20m
15 * Roraima Rob's Variant

Rightward horizontal break

FFA: Rob Oliver, Malcolm MAtheson, 2011

16 ** Casiquiare

Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, 2003

21Trad 25m
17 * Amazonia

Wall right of Eau Rouge with a traverse in from the right to avoid the blank wall. Trad with some bolts

FFA: Malcolm Matheso, Rob Oliver, 2011

22Trad 25m
18 *** Eau Rouge

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

23Mixed 32m, 3
19 *** Red LIne

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

28Mixed 30m, 3
20 * Pterodactyl

One piece of trad to start then 3 bolts. Bouldery on awesome rock.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

25Sport 15m, 3
21 * Iguanadon

Same start as Pterodactyl (trad) then head left and up past 4 bolts to same anchor.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

25Sport 15m, 4
22 * Lost in Antiquity

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

  1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

  2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off

FFA: Malcolm Matheson and Adam Demmert, 2014

23Trad 40m 2
23 ** The Land That Time Forgot

Follows stellar arete which starts down and left of redline. 2 bolts and trad on both pitches.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

26Mixed 20m 2, 4
24 ** The Land That Time Forgot Pitch 2

2 bolts and trad.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

25Mixed 20m, 2
25 * Jurassic Adventure

Desperate laybacking. 4 bolt sport route with lower off in gully around left of Redline.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

25Sport 15m, 4
26 * The Valley of Fear

The next route in the gully. Difficult moves up and right to gain corner. Continue technically up corner to small overlap where you move on to arete. Head up this and left to anchors. 2 Fixed hangers and 3 rings.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2012

25Sport 12m, 5
27 My Friend the Murderer Project - Closed

CLOSED PROJECT - Adam Demmert - Next route left up the Gully. Rightward diagonal seam.

Sport Project
28 Malcolm's other crack project

Further up the gully from MFTM is another hard crack line Malcolm has cleaned and is working, possibly 30+

29 The Mind Tinker

It is thought that this route takes the big easy line up the lower tier and crosses the upper terrace to the yellow corner, probably neasr "Humboldt". Looks worthless.

In the middle of the cliff right of "The Go-Between" an easy-angled grey corner is the only break in the initial overhangs. Above is an impressive yellow corner.

  1. 45m (14) A tricky start then doddle up just right of the corner to a tree belay.

  2. 25m (-) Up easily to terrace below the yellow corner.

  3. 45m (14) Fight up the vines into the chimney 9just left of "Humboldt" and bridge up this to a ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Easily up jugs on left arete.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien (alt), 1975

14Trad 130m 4
30 * Indiana Jones

Quite a bit of excitement. Takes the big orange wall right of " The Go-Between". Start a few metres right of that climb.

  1. 40m (22) Around overhang and up wall following a vague orange streak between three overhangs. Step right to belay in an eyrie.

  2. 40m (22) Tend left up wall to smooth red streak then straight up wall. Step left to go through break in overhang and up final wall.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

22Trad 80m 2
31 The Go-Between

Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.

  1. 34m (7) Start on massive jugs and continue up and left into the line. Belay out on the left wall when the crack bends sharpest to the left.

  2. 45m (7) Climb the left wall to the top.

FA: Chris O'Brien, Chris Baxter (alt), 1975

7Trad 79m 2
32 * The Last Crusade

Steep cracky goodness. Hand to finger. Way over left on a separate wall.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert, 2011

24Trad 12m
33 * One Small Step for a Space Cadet

Down on the lower level again, this is the orange wall you see walking towards this area. Follow orange scoops up wall. Tricky start leads to sneaky moves left at 3rd bolt to gain next leadge/scoops. follow these to bust out on the thin face to finish.

FFA: Adam Demmert, James Scott-Bohanna, 1912

25Sport 18m, 6
34 Malcolm's Crack

Bring your arms and your technique. 40 degrees overhanging and sick.

Trad Project
35 Closed Project - James Scott Bohannan

Closed Project Please Stay off.

36 * A Fortunate Life

Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish.

FFA: James Scott Bohanna, Adam Demmert, 2012

24Mixed 10m, 4
37 Malcolm Trad

1.2. Mt Fox Area 193 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.270616, -37.205351

1.2.1. Jungle Gym 19 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.263292, -37.183282

Description:© (nmonteith)

Nice little crag sitting above the junction of Red Rock Road and Emu Foot Track.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park on Red Rock Road below the west-facing wall and walk up.

GR 120838

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Calling Hop Harrigan

More or less climbs the middle of the black wall right of the pinnacle.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

13Trad 20m
2 Varicose Vines

The good section is too short.

Start: Start about 8 metres right of "Calling Hop Harrigan" on the right arete of the face at a little yellow groove.

FA: Chris Baxter, Ian Ravenscroft, 1988

16Trad 20m
3 Jungle Juice

Climb the flake crack, which rises up to the left, to a rounded, mossy exit.

Start: Start 25 metres right of "Varicose Veins" below a tiny recessed wall with a roof above and a large conifer in front.

FA: Simon Mentz, Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

23Trad 8m
4 Suspended Animation

A major line at the left end of the cliff. The start is undercut by a cave.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1988

14Trad 20m
5 * Storm In A D-Cup

The attractive crack 15 metres right of "Suspended Animation".

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Simon Mentz, Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

19Trad 28m
6 * The Wreckery

Sustained jamming up a beautiful diagonal crack on smooth rock.

FA: Chris Baxter, Ian Ravenscroft, 1988

18Trad 30m
7 Circumcision Ritual

The line right of "The Wreckery" at the right-hand end of the face.

FA: Simon Mentz, Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

17Trad 22m
8 Hang Me High

Blunt arete with 2 fixed hangers left of "The Bounty Hunter" ? which is where?

FA: Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon, 2002

23Mixed 18m, 2
9 * Geoffs Arete A

FA: Geoff Butcher

19Trad 20m
10 The Tour

Black slab on right side of dark gully around left of "Hang Me High"

FA: Neil Monteith, Geoff Butcher, Marten Blumen, 2001

16Mixed 20m, 1
11 ** Dju Dju

Nice thin grey face situated on block near the top of "Jungle Gym".

FA: Marcel Geelan, Geoff Butcher, Neil Monteith, 2002

21Mixed 15m, 2
12 * The Wreckery Direct

Instead of traversing left and joining up with 'Storm' In A D-Cup at 15m keep climbing the face directly above, eventually heading slightly right up short diagonal flake to top. Makes the route a lot more sustained.

18Unknown 28m
13 Varicose Vines Double Bypass

Straightens out "Varicose Vines"

FA: Graeme Smith, Glenn Donohue, Peter Cunningham, 1994

18Unknown 20m
14 * Pussy Whipped Wuss

Start in the left-hand corner at the base of the main corner. Move right at overhang into main corner and continue to stance. Now crack in left wall past big block.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith, 1993

23Trad 32m
15 Waggy Tail

Worthless. Start off big block against cliff.

FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw, 1993

6Trad 40m
16 Sniffer Dog

Pull into corner then climb the centre of the juggy right wall.

Start: Left again is another big undercut corner.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Rhyl Shaw, 1993

15Trad 25m
17 * The Bounty Hunter

Apparently cool gritstone climbing. Haven't been able to find a description so location is guesswork.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 2001

19Mixed 20m, 1
18 Juggernaut

Boulder start up large buttress leaning in front of cliff. Step across void onto the orange wall. Move diagonally left towards arete and up.

Start: Start on the first buttress up and about 50 metres right of "Circumcision Ritual"

FA: Peter Cunningham, Graeme Smith, Glenn Donohue, 1994

14Trad 25m
19 Just Left Of The Stump

Remote. Might even be in The Labryinth.

Start: Start about 30-40 metres right of "Juggernaut", slightly up a broad gully and a few metres right of a tight, short chimney.

FA: Glenn Donohue, Graeme Smith, Peter Cunningham, 1994

20Trad 20m

1.2.2. Mount Cactus 2 routes in Crag

All Trad

A remote crag high on the range featuring spectacular views. Expect two hours of uphill scrub-bashing. Any sense of isolation and despair engendered by the walk will be enhanced by the cliff and its existing climbs. The experience could be further intensified by venturing in during summer.


Park on Red Rock Road just south of Muline Creek, 1 kilometre north of the Mt Fox turnoff, next to a locked barrier on a track heading east. Follow this track for 300 metres to a T-junction, turn left and, after 200 metres, turn onto a vague track to the right. This heads north-east and soon peters out on the southern slopes of the next creek north of Muline Creek. The idea now is to follow the righ-hand side of this creek valley to the crest of the ridge. At this point Mount Cactus will be on your right and you will be amazed at the aptness of the name. Descend from the summit down overlapping slabs leading to the right-hand end of the crag. GR 132816

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Scream

A bold, strong lead up the outstanding crack line at the left end of the huge cave.

  1. 40m (16) Follow the crack, and sometimes the left wall, to a large ledge. The rock is better than it looks and improves as you get higher but has a touch of sea-cliff uncertainty.

  2. 20m (-) Up awkward mega-jugs to a tree-filled gully. Scramble up gully to summit.

FA: Andy Long, Gordon Talbett (alt) and james McIntosh, 1994

16 XTrad 60m 2
2 Untitled Route

Well to the right of the huge cave and below the slabs of the descent route, is a steep band of rock leading up and left.

FA: James McIntosh, Gordon Talbett, Andy Long, 1994

16Trad 25m

1.2.3. Generation Gap 7 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.273677, -37.211073

Description:© (kieranl)

The big, grey, north-facing wall high in the Muline Creek Valley is serious cliff offering thin, poorly protected wall climbing on excellent rock. For serious callers only.

Originally called 'Generation Gap' by the first people to climb on the cliff but, unaware of this, a later next party called it 'Cervantes Wall', a much more suitable name for this fine cliff.

The cliff is often running with water so have a good look from the road before walking in.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach from the left end of Muline Cave via a faint pad.

Descend by a 50 metre abseil down "Baltic City", leaving a very long sling, or down the cleft left of "Dracula's Blood"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dracula's Blood

Steep, juggy climbing and some disconcerting rock.

Start: Start at right-hand end of cliff at obvious flake ramp sweeping up right.

FA: Melanie and James McIntosh, 1991

15Trad 45m
2 On For Young And Old

OK but some poor rock.

Start: Scramble 5 metres up the ramp above "Dracula's Blood" to belay.

  1. 25m (17) Easily up ramp. Up onto wall and traverse left along line to above the belay. Up weakness to overhang, undercling around left and climb line to stance.

  2. 20m (-) Rotten line above, then left and up.

FA: Steve Hamilton, Chris Baxter, 1989

17Trad 45m 2
3 ** Don Quixote

Great but both pitches are bold and require drive.

Start: Start right of the huge wall, where a smooth wall rises out of the forest.

  1. 60m (21) Step onto wall from a boulder on the right and climb the vague prow on excellent rock. When things ease, move left and up to belay.

  2. 40m (21) Step left and up another vague prow in the wall until a right-leaning flake-line leads up to the roof-line. Ste left at roof then climb around it at its narrowest point. Move right on the brink of the roof, then up headwall past right side of upper roof-line.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, 1991

21 RTrad 60m 2
4 ** Cervantes Wall

Takes the smooth convex wall left of "Don Quixote", starting by the shady gum tree.

  1. 55m (23) Delicately past bolt at 6 metres then step right to good nut. Up and slightly leftward until the climbing eases. Tend rightward up beautiful rock to an incut ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Up thin vertical crack directly above belay, with a slight detour via a flake on the left. Finish via a cave under the summit roof (as led) or straight up the overhanging white cleft (as seconded).

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks (alt), Norm Booth, 1992

23 RMixed 55m 2, 1
5 ** Tilting At Windmills

A grand route with solid climbing well out from runners.

Start: Start at the left end of the long ledge under the main wall, under a small flake high up.

  1. 40m (24) Move up on the left, then balance delicately up right to a break. Move right then precariously up to the next break. Traverse back left then straight up to the flake. Step left at top of flake and boldly up wall above to stance.

  2. 30m (-) Up, then tend left up wall until able to gain right-hand end of huge horizontal block at the summit overhang. Pull over roof-line to top.

FA: Mark Hopkins, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1992

24 XTrad 70m 2
6 * Baltic City

Head up right to a bush, up thin crack, left along break to a bolt, then straight up past another bolt and the left edge of the crater.

Start: Start about 20 metres left of "Tilting At Windmills" on large boulders, below a crater high on the wall.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

19Mixed 50m, 2
7 * Sancho Panza

Runout climbing up a superb wall.

Start: Start just left of "Baltic City"

  1. 35m (21) Up left a bit then straight up, about 10 metres left of "Baltic City". At about 30 metres traverse right to a wide flat jug then back left along a dyke-seam then up to the end of the big ledge.

  2. 15m (-) Up easily.

FA: Keith Lockwood, James McIntosh (alt) and Melanie McIntosh, 1993

21 RTrad 50m 2

1.2.4. Wall Of The West Wind 2 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.266652, -37.212797

Description:© (jgoding)

This beautiful and compact little wall has an attractive outlook. It is located approx 200m west (down and right) of 'Emu Rock', and immediatly left of the descent gully for that cliff. The wall is distinguished by a guano stained cave in the middle of the wall. The two routes go either side of the cave.

Approach:© (jgoding)

124804, 612880

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gone With The Wind

Steep, sustained and pumpy on the hard section, with a few suspect little flakes to pull on. From the L end of the wall, climb the juggy grey crack behind the conifer to a broken area. Take the distinctive thin orange diagonal up R and then up. Exit R at the summit overhang.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1988

19Trad 30m
2 * Winds Of Change

Good face climbing up weakness at R end of face, which leads to the R arete before a steep conclusion.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1988

17Trad 20m

1.2.5. Muline Creek 5 routes in Area

All Trad

Walls and crags on the right when walking up to 'Muline Crag'. Walk across through scrub and boulders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Jungle Drums

Quality easy climb lurking in HB territory.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 1995

16Trad 30m
2 Timpani

Corner of "Jungle Drums" to overlap. Move 1 metre right, climb the overlap and finish up the face.

Start: Start as for "Jungle Drums".

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1995

15Trad 30m
3 Tabla

Start off the block and follow the central line. Exit from the second ledge on the left.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1995

16Trad 22m
4 Bongo Bonanza

Do the first few moves to the corner, then move left on to the arete. Take arete to crack and exit on first ledge.

Start: Start as for "Tabla".

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1995

16Trad 22m
5 Oooga Booga

Follow teh horizontal break then climb the wall between the scrappy flake/corner and the arete.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2000

16Trad 20m

1.2.6. Muline Crag 39 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 142.269144, -37.209606

Description:© (nmonteith)

If you can climb grade 30 this cliff is the mecca of all meccas. One of the 'Big 4' sport crags of 'Victoria'. An amazing impressive cave of mindblowing features.

This is also one of the best "four season" crags in the 'Grampians', for the same reasons as 'Sandinista' Wall:

  • in winter the sun is low in the sky and stays in the north, reaching in under the big overhangs to warm up frosty belayers;

  • in summer the sun is high in the sky and both the routes and the base spend most of the day in shade;

  • the very steep headwall keeps off the rain.

Naturally, if its cloudy and wintery this crag is miserably cold, but it should at least be dry (and hey, no other crag in 'Victarctica' will be any warmer). Also, the routes have enough slopers that temps in the 30s will be a problem even if you are climbing in the shade (on days like this it's probably better to try 'The Tower' just down the road).

A quick history lesson from Simon Mentz:

"Steve Hamilton dragged me and a few others into the cliff many years before it started being developed. I think he had discovered the place with Baxter and came back raving. I recall him telling me about this line that looked like three Sandinista's stacked on top of each other. I went in there expecting to climb mega-routes routes ground-up. Although the cliff was impressive, I was actually disappointed. Most of the cliff looked ridiculously hard. I remember saying to Steve, 'Where is the triple 'Sandinista' line?' 'In fact, show me one line that we can actually start climbing?' In the end I began rap-bolting the steep line of what is now 'Krankandangle'. I faffed around for ages getting in position, then my hand drill kept getting stuck, and finally when I got a bolt in place... I wasn't happy with it. We eventually walked out and never bothered to return. It wasn't until years later that HB mentioned this amazing cliff that he and Noddy had visited and their suprise at seeing a single bolt halfway up one of the lines, that it all clicked. Malcolm had established a few other routes and asked me whether I still planned to do that particular route. 'Yeah, of course!' (What a crock - I had completely forgotten about it). I took a power drill next time I visited the place and finished bolting the line (replacing my old dud bolt). The ascent was a formality, although I recall Sylvia finding the crux moves a bit reachy and falling off a few times. So there you go... another absolutely brilliant cliff (along with the Gallery) that I visited prior to their development and which I failed to see the potential of!"

Bear in mind that no rebolting has yet occurred at this crag so all bolts are the originals, and some are starting to show their age. There's quite a few spinning hangers, and the hangerless carrot bolts vary from "worrisome" to "completely shit". (Take bolt brackets). Perhaps the greatest concern is that the fixed hanger/bolt combos used are mismatched metal types and suffering from galvanic corrosion as a result, which can be particularly dangerous because of the tendency for the damage to be localised around the metal/metal interfaces, i.e. largely out of sight.

The best warm up is the bouldering around the base of 'Desert Rose' - neither of the "easy" routes are good options if you're still cold and haven't been on them before.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Drive north for a kilometre (approx) from the Mt Fox carpark on Red Rock Rd until you hit the obvious creek crossing (Muline Creek). 50m south of Muline Creek is a carpark on the east side of the road (which, as of Oct 2008, has a big tree fallen across it) - park here. Walk up old fireroad for 100m to T-intersection. Walk right (south) for 50m to rock cairn marking track into Muline. The well worn track is pretty flat at first, but gets progressively steeper. The track is easy to follow and the walk takes about 25 minutes. The track meets the cliff at After Midnight.

The crag is marked "kid friendly" because the base of the cliff is generally ok for kids to hang out, especially around the base of 'Eye of the Tiger', and 'Desert Rose' (but beware the 6m drop-off separating these areas, just left of Pocket Full of Dreams). However, the walk in will tax little legs (or the adult carrying them!).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Krankandangle

Steepo left leading cave route on far left side of crag. Sport all the way.


24Sport 15m, 5
2 *** Middle Path

Link Krankandangle into Path of Yin via low bolt.

FA: Nick Sutter

28Trad 15m
3 *** Path of Yin

One of the best in Oz. The only bad thing about this climb is that it was cruelly stolen from HB by a UK darkhorse. This should be on everyone's tick list. They simply don't get much better.

Start: Start 5m down R of 'Krankandangle'.

FA: Ken Palmer

30Trad 14m
4 *** Eye Of The Tiger

Crikey it's good. Which is better Path Of Yin or Eye Of The Tiger? Truly superb rock architecture, with fair dinkum good moves. Was a lot harder but then some creative thinking enabled the roof passage to be climbed with out too much strength, which produced an enormous increase in it's popularity! Incredibly steep, at least 15m overhung.

Start: Start at the back of the cave beneath the huge "eye" in the roof.

FA: Scott Walter

29Mixed 25m, 10
5 Nathan Project

Unfinished bolted line in the middle of the blankness, 4 bolts with a bail biner.

6 ** Central Latitudes

Lunacy endurance traverse. Your forearms will explode.


30Trad 45m
7 ** Long Arm White Spider

Starts as per PFOD then joins CL for a couple of bolts. Takes traverse line a few meters south of CL to same anchor

FA: Nathan H, 2014

32Trad 50m
8 Parisian Thumbs

As for Cl but keep going straight up via very reachy moves.

Start: Start as for CL.

FA: Nick Sutterish, 2010

9 ** Pocket Full of Dreams

A beautiful gobsmacking line. The manky old carrots at the start have now been placed with rings. A long stick-clip is required as the crux is the start.

Start: Start 3m R of the base of the rock step separating the upper and lower tiers of the crag.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson, Norm Booth, 1991

23Mixed 25m, 2
10 Nick Sutter Project

Start: The line of bolts a couple of metres R of 'Pocket Full of Dreams'.

11 ** After Midnight 26Trad 55m
12 ** After Midnight Pitch 1

A strong natural line but a bit chossy in the middle.

Start: The hanging left facing corner in the centre of the crag, where the walk-in track meets the cliff, and about 10m R of PFoD.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 1991

26Mixed 20m, 3
13 After Midnight Pitch 2

Choss. Like climbing the worst sea cliff in Sydney. Not sure why Malcolm did this?!

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 1991

24 RMixed 15m, 4
14 *** Snap Dragon

A great line that was strangely one of the last routes added. Seems so obvious now.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Desert Rose'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2005

30Sport 20m, 6
15 *** Desert Rose

Another superb line. The best 27 in the 'Grampians' - although most think its actually 28!

Start: Start about 8m R of After Midnight.

FA: HB, 2000

27Mixed 20m, 4
16 Desert Rose - Pitch 2

Up and right through cool roof. Above ankle breaking ledge. Done in one pitch now.


25Mixed 15m, 3
17 *** Demon Flower

The original Vic Ranges hard route. Mega.

Start: Start 5m R of DR at major scoopy weakness. Power endurance classic past 6 bolts to anchor

FA: HB, 2000

31Mixed 25m, 6
18 *** Flower Power

One of the hardest routes in 'Victoria'. A sustained full frontal assault on the highest part of the cave.

Start: Start just R of DF.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2003

33Trad 20m
19 ** Wild Orchids

Tough rightwards heading line right of Flower Power. Slopy.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

30Trad 17m
20 Pa Pa Poppy

A bit of a glue job. The glued on hold has come off once again. Probably impossible atm january 2015

FA: Nathan, 2000

30Trad 15m
21 * Jumping Geraniums

Start up 'Sullivan Street' then bust out left and up bulging wall above.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

27Trad 17m
22 Sullivan Street

Very tough bouldery start that has shut down quite a few strong international climbers. Bring a medium cam for the finish moves. Lower off last bolt.

FA: HB, 2000

26Trad 15m
23 * Munro Street

7 bolts across lovely flake feature.

23Sport 15m
24 Path Of Garth 29Trad 15m
25 Malcolm's Route 30Trad 20m

Scramble up to the cave above to access the next few routes.

26 * Nothing Lasts Forever / Nothing Lasts Forever (Upper Cave)

Short punchy route on left of cave. 'Nowra' like!

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

23Sport 8m
27 Coffee And TV (Upper Cave)

Follows bouldery rib to juggy finish.

25Sport 10m, 7
28 Marlon Brando (Upper Cave) 25Sport 10m, 6
29 ** Blinded by the Lights / Blinded By The Lights (Upper Cave)

Starts on far right of cave and finishes as for NLF. Nice pumper!

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

25Sport 15m
30 Body Blow (Emu Cave)

Left hand start to minimal tech.

29Trad 15m
31 Minimal Tech (Emu Cave)

THE line of the cave. Power Endurance.

28Trad 15m
32 * Middle Park

Link up minimal tech into loose cannon.

26Trad 12m
33 Loose Cannon (Emu Cave)

Just another stunner

29Trad 15m
34 McLovin' (Emu Cave)

Steep and very crimpy

30Trad 12m

The next route is accessed by scrambling to the right.

35 * Bikini Revenge / Bikini Revenge (Middle Cave)

The only bolted line in this cave.

Classic Power Route.

31Sport 15m, 5

The next routes are located above the main wall. Access by topping out After Midnight Pitch 1. The other option is to climbs a juggy wall on the far right of the cave and then traverse right to reach a double fixed hanger. Roping up is recommended.

36 * Malcolms Upper Route / Malcolm's 24+ (Upper Right Tier)

Furthest right of the upper tier routes. Crazy roof climbing. Belay off double FHs. Three FHs on the route itself. No anchor so back jump to clean.

FA: HB, 2000

24Sport 15m
37 Some Like It Hot

Pull onto wall at right-hand end of overhanging section and go up, veering left.

Start: Just along from and at right-angles to the right-hand end of the cave terrace is a small wall with an overhanging left side.

FA: Edwin Young, Kate Hilton, 1995

18Trad 10m
38 Too Hot to trot

Up middle seam right of "Some Like It Hot". Follow grassy, right-leading crack, then up.

FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw, Kate Hilton, Edwin Young, 1995

18Trad 10m
39 Tattoos of Memories

Spectacular stuff. Takes a hanging rib which bisects two big red caves, then a sweeping blade arete above. 'The caves' feature the roof climb "Path of Garth".

Start: Starts: On big cliff down and right of main 'Muline Crag'. From the car, walk up track as far as the second rocky outcrop. Skirt right 50m around base of outcrop to cliff.

  1. 20m (16) A ramp leads out the right side of a scoop. Continue up orange bulging wall to base of rib.

  2. 20m (16) Rib, then arete. Walk off left.

FA: Tim and Keith Lockwood (alt), 2006

16Unknown 40m 2

1.2.7. Emu Rock 17 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.268298, -37.211790

Description:© (jgoding)

Fantastic looking west facing vertical wall.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Above 'Muline Crag'. Best aproached from Muline, and just keep heading up the left end of the crag, scramble up an easy corner and then hack through about 10mins of hakia (prickly!!!)

Park your car about 200m south of Muline Creek on Red Rock Road near a small clearing. Head east on old 4WD track for 5mins to road. Turn right, then on your left after about 50-100m is a cairned well established track. Follow this for around 20mins until you reach 'Muline Crag'. Waltz up the left end and scramble left up a corner, then head south east for about 10 minutes through prickly scrub which is steep in places until you reach the cliff.

Descent: there are 3 abseil options. 1) 35m. ~10m left of the top of 'Whipping Boy' is a large bollard with slings and a ring on it. 2) 55m marked on cliff topo. 3) 45m, slings on bollard approx 3m right and down from 'Patagonia' P2 belay. Apparently you can walk off - this would be epic!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quick Draw McGraw

This route takes an obvious crack through a roof 4m off the ground a few metres L of 'Homework'. 1) 18m Up through the roof (crux) to a ledge. Traverse L to belay in a small cave. 2) 20m Traverse out R from cave, and up R-ward leading flake/crack to ledge. 3) 15m Up on jugs to the top.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust (alt), 1993

20Trad 53m
2 Homework
  1. 20m Up arete and step L into L facing corner then diagonally L up steep wall to join 'Quick Draw McGraw' at belay ledge. 2) 35m Up rotten corner to top (or last pitch of 'Quick' Draw McGraw).

Start: Start 12m along from L end of undercut section.

FA: Mike Wust, Wayne Maher (alt) Jeremy Boreham, Jerry Maddox, 1993

18Trad 55m
3 ** Whipping Boy

Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness.

FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter, 1987

16Trad 80m
4 * Wallscrawl

The first of three routes which are direct variants of 'Whipping Boy'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

16Trad 87m
5 * Sheet Of Water

The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh (alt), 1992

17Trad 100m
6 Mother Superior

More of the same with less pro.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1989

16Trad 90m
7 ** Sahara

Sustained and great.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt) Geoff Gledhill, 1989

17Trad 90m
8 ** Sahara Direct Finish 19Trad
9 *** Cyclops

Goes where 'Sahara' should have gone.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Parrish Robbins, 1990

17Trad 80m
10 ** Patagonia

Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

16Trad 130m
11 ** Drung South

Hotter than the 'Sahara'. Starts just R of 'Patagonia' at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia's original second pitch traverse on the way.

FA: Parish Robbins, Keith Lockwood, 1990

21Trad 60m
12 Sorority Babes
  1. 30m From bottom R toe of the wall, climb intermittent, diagonal crack system up wall to above small, friable cave. Veer L up wall on vague dyke below base of large cave. HB where rising dyke meets major horizontal dyke. 2) 50m (crux) Traverse L across wall along dyke to HB on L arete of face. 3-4) 65m As for 'Whipping Boy'.

FA: Simon Murray, Tim Peterson (alt), 1995

18Trad 150m
13 Sufferers' Palestine
  1. 35m Start as for 'Sahara' but traverse L across steep wall where 'Sahara' veers R. Through friable section, then up to wall between 'Mother Superior' and 'Sahara'. Face, then vague runnel at 15m, wall. HB at dyke. 2) 25m Directly up wall until it eases, then veer L to meet 'Whipping Boy' at weakness in head-wall. 3) Roped scrambling to top.

FA: Anton Bartlett, Simon Murray (alt), 1995

18Trad 90m
14 The Scar Strangled Banger 17Trad 20m
15 Dirty Morning 14Trad 10m
16 Nile

Left of "Whipping Boy" is a big orange wall. Nile takes the right edge of this wall.

  1. 20m (13) Climb slabby wall trending up right until below overhang. Pull around left side of overhang and up juggy arete to ledge.

  2. 20m (13) Up left and up wall to the left of black slab. Step right to ledge. Abseil off bollards.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood (alt) and Norm Booth, 2005

13Trad 40m 2
17 ** Patagonia direct finish

FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, 1991

16Trad 60m

1.2.8. Hollywood Bowl 25 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.268096, -37.214765

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cornered By Fans

The clean corner at the L end of the slab.

Start: About 250—300m L of the main 'bowl' is a smooth recessed slab, bounded by corners at both ends. There you will find this route.

FA: David Brereton, James McIntosh, 1991

10Trad 15m
2 Scalper's Egress

Up the crack and L-facing corner above. David Brereton, James McIntosh Nov 91.

Start: The central line on the wall, above the highest point of the huge detached block.

9Trad 12m
3 Cannes

The L of the two obvious cracks just around L of 'Bowled Out'. Climb the crack for about 10m. Traverse easily L to finish up the arête. Abseil off.

FA: Tony Wilson, James McIntosh, 1991

10Trad 30m
4 Nice

The R crack and corner behind.

FA: Tony Wilson, James McIntosh, 1991

8Trad 30m
5 The Enchantress

Rather contrived. An enjoyable enough route, but not in the same league as 'Romancing Times'. 1) 35m (crux) As for 'Romancing Times' but head up just L of the brown rock past an obvious under-cling at 25m. 2) 35m Up R, taking both overhangs pretty much direct.

FA: Melanie and James McIntosh (alt), 1992

18Trad 70m
6 *** Romancing Times

Despite the crux being very run-out, James is reported to have declared this 'the best new route we have ever done'.

Start: Start as for 'Bowled Out'.

FA: Melanie McIntosh, James McIntosh, 1991

18 RTrad 60m
7 Bowled Out

Start directly below the 'bowl'. 1) 45m Climb up into the foot of the 'bowl' then avoid major difficulty and lack of protection by skirting up and left around the 'bowl'. 2) 20m Up easily.

FA: Ian Ravenscroft, Chris Baxter (alt), Dave Gairns March, 1989

13Trad 65m
8 ** Arrows of Desire

A pleasant mixture of slab climbing and exposed but juggy face-climbing. Start below central rib, on face R of 'bowl'. 1) 12m Climb the slab and veer R to belay at the L end of a ledge, at a tree. 2) 40m Go up L on to the slabby rib and climb it to the little roof. Go L and pull through the weakness. Up to the next roof, over it, and up cracks to the top.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1987

16Trad 52m
9 * The Ballad Of Idwal Slabs
  1. 15m Up main L-leading dyke to belay as for 'Arrows of Desire'. 2) 40m Straight up to the R end of first little roof on 'Arrows of Desire'. Move R to easier ground, then head diagonally up L to finish on prow.

FA: James McIntosh, Tony Wilson, 1991

17Trad 55m
10 ** Chariot Of Fire

Similar climbing to 'Arrows of Desire' but steeper and on even better holds. Start just R of the Ballad of Idwal 'Slabs', 4m L of the little corner. 1) 16m Climb the slab to a ledge. 2) 36m Climb the wall directly above to finish up twin cracks.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1987

15Trad 52m
11 ** Ancient Times

Quite exposed on the traverse. 1) 35m Climb the scooped line R of Chariots of Fire into the corner above. Go up the corner to the R end of the slabby ledge and up the corner above. When just below the roof step R to a ledge. 2) 25m Pull over the overhang above the belay and traverse back L (watch rope-drag) on the lip into the L-leaning arch, which is followed in a dramatic position until the line heads up the steep wall above on surprising holds. 2a) 30m, grade 15**. traverse 4m left from belay, head up through the juggy break in small roof(!) in to the original line. Well protected.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

14Trad 60m
12 * Bubbles Of Fantasy

Start 15m R of 'Ancient Times'. 1) 30m Follow the delightful arête. 2) 30m Climb the flake to the roof, L (brittle) into gully and up.

FA: Melanie & James McIntosh, 1990

10Trad 60m
13 * Citizen Cane - Wings of Desire - LHV

Airy traverse. May be a little easier if you are shorter than 5'9" / 170cm

  1. 25m (16) As for Citizen Cane to ledge belay. Take lots of wires.

  2. 25m (22) Up the fantastic steep juggy corner of 'Wings of Desire' , through right side of roof. Traverse the lip of the roof left (good medium cams, but way pumpy to place) for around 5-6m to open book corner. Wide steep bridging on good holds. Left under small roof to big ledge belay. Roped scramble off left (approx 15m), then over to either the abseil station above Citizin Cane or the 'Main Wall' abseil station.

FA: Josef Goding, Anthony Pattison, 2007

22Trad 50m 2
14 ** Wings of Desire

A high-quality route. Start 15m R of Bubbles of Fantasy. 1) 25m (18) Up large L-facing corner then main wall, passing a small R-facing corner. At its top, step L, then diagonally R to orange sickle. Up jugs and R-facing corner to belay on ledge. 2) 25m (crux) L-facing corner to roof, boldly through this (#3.5 cam at lip), then up and diagonally L to rest on arete (fixed wire). Up, step L and up wall, finishing through bulge on L.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day (alt), 1991

23 RTrad 55m
15 ** Citizen Kane

Sustained and absorbing face climbing. 'Excellent' protection available. Start a few metres L of Wing of 'Desire'. 1) 25m (16) Straight up face, moving slightly R at diagonal, then up to belay at R end of ledge. 2) 25m (crux) Traverse 2m R, then directly up the crack-line to the R end of striped mini-roof. Through this to overlap, and directly up veering slightly L to finish at the chain.

FA: Tim Day, Ylva Wakefield, 1996

22Trad 50m
16 Metropolis

Start: Start as for "Chariot Of Fire".

  1. 15m (-) As for "Chariot Of Fire".

  2. 40m (17) Climb the wall tending left to the ledge. Move up to the base of the right diagonal ramp. Mantle this, then directly up the steep headwall.

FA: yiva Wakefield, Tim Day (alt), 1996

17Trad 55m 2
17 ** Kickback

Sporty incuts up a sustained face, then exciting trad climbing up a steep weakness. Starts about 8m right of 'Wings of Desire' and 3m left of 'Trust'. Traverse left across pocketed wall (two FHs) then up the face above past horizontal break (cams) and onto face proper. Edge for pleasure on sideways sloping rails (three FHs) to crux move right into seam crack. Up this crack with a dogleg left past a huge fang for 20m to top trad belay. Full trad rack to #2 SLCD required.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006

24Trad 35m
18 Trust

Start as for Faraway so Close. Up then diagonally L past broken niche. Up R of 'gargoyle', finishing R of mossy streak. Join Faraway so Close 4m below top.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

21Trad 25m
19 ** Faraway So Close

Appearances can deceive. 'Excellent' climbing.

FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens, 1996

22Trad 24m
20 The Pillow Book

The open-book crescent. Directly up off the block (RPs and other wires) to base of crescent. Move L past BR then back R above roof.

FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens, 1996

21Trad 24m
21 The Unbelievable Truth

Step up R off block (RPs), then up (BR, FH), to join 'The Pillow Book' at base of crescent. Step R and up R side of arête (BR) to top.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

23Trad 24m
22 ** Ancient Times Direct

40m 15, the 'S' shaped crack system. Up the line 10m to overhang [watch for brittle rock], through it to the original line.

Start: Start as for "Ancient Times"

FA: Tim Wallace, Hannah Loki and Phil Cutlet, 2005

14Trad 20m
23 The Ballad of Idwal Slabs direct finish

Good climbing with a poorly protected crux. Start from ledge at The Ballad of Idwal 'Slabs' anchor. 1) 40m Straight up to, and through small break in roof-let R of 'Arrows of Desire'. Traverse 2m L on flakes (poor RPs) to shallow groove. Up this (poor RPs), then delicately up and R to ledge. Finish up R side of prow.

FA: Aaron Campbell, Mick Jennings, 1997

21 RTrad 40m
24 Cherub

Traverse L just below the cave to the corner at the L end of the cave to belay. Traverse easily to the R to abseil as for 'Cannes'.

Start: To the L of 'Cannes' is a short wall capped by a cavernous roof, with a distinctive flaring chimney at its R-hand end. The 'Cannes' rappel is directly above this. Start at the boulder somewhere near the centre of this wall where a vague line leads up and L toward the cave above.

FA: Ylva Wakefield, Tim Day, 1996

8Trad 25m
25 ** Modern Times
  1. 25m As for 'Ancient Times' to R-hand end of the ledge. Progress to block at top of slab. 2) 35m (crux) Up and R across wall on in-cuts to base of juggy crack in steep wall. Motor up (sling runners) to a rest on the lip. Cross 'Ancient Times' to finish directly up the steep, juggy head-wall.

FA: Ylva Wakefield, Tim Day (alt), 1996

17Trad 60m

1.2.9. Hollywood Valley 5 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

There are a few short routes on the boulders in the valley below 'Hollywood Bowl'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Beer & Prawns

An easier "Romancing Times"

Start: Start at the left-hand side of the west face of Beer Can Rock.

FA: James McIntosh, Melanie McIntosh, 1991

14Trad 22m
2 Fosters

Follow leftward diagonal until it ends, then straight up.

Start: Start right of "Beer & Prawns" and just left of tree at 4 metres.

FA: Melanie Mcintosh, James McIntosh, 1991

15Trad 25m
3 Brewers' Droop

Up the thin crack which forks at 3 metres. Take the left fork then trend left on the upper wall.

Start: On the east face.

FA: James McIntosh, Jerry Maddox, 1993

16Trad 15m
4 * Cabochon

A little gem that people walk past on the way to 'Hollywood Bowl'.

FA: James McIntosh, 1990

19Trad 10m
5 Size Isn't Everything

Excellent quality but much too short.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

18Trad 7m

1.2.10. Loose Rock - Candy Outcrop 5 routes in Crag

All Trad
Approach:© (kieranl)

Walk up past Cub Wall to a small triple buttress higher on the spur. Some of the routes are initialled.

GR 122801

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Peanut Brittle

The crack at the right-hand end of the left-hand buttress, to the right of the cave at 17 metres.

  1. 20m (17) Climb the crack through teh overhang then easily up to belay.

  2. 15m (-) Walk back to the chimney, climb this and the wall above.

FA: Warwick Wright, Stuart Willis, 1991

17Trad 35m 2
2 Violet Crumble

The obvious crack splitting the middle buttress with an undercut start.

FA: Warwick Wright, Stuart Willis, 1991

16Trad 35m
3 Licorice Allsorts

Corner to the roof, go left for 3 metres then straight up the wall.

Start: Start at the corner-crack below the roof at the left end of the right buttress.

FA: Warwick Wright, Stuart Willis, 1991

12Trad 15m
4 Turkish Delight

Climb the face 4 metres left of "Licorice Allsorts" and tend left to the corner above the roof of "Licorice Allsorts".

FA: Warwick Wright, Stuart Willis, 1991

13Trad 30m
5 Flake Shake

Climb the corner until able to bridge through the hole.

Start: Start under the boulder right of "Violet Crumble"

FA: Rohan Moore, Colin, McKennesken, 1991

14Trad 10m

1.2.11. Club Wall 2 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.264632, -37.216133

Description:© (kieranl)

Nice but limited little cliff behind Mt Fox.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Cliff faces north-east and is approached by walking up to just below Mt Fox, sidling left around a steep yellow outcrop and then going up and right to this wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Yesterday's Heroes

The superb thin crack snaking up the left side of the wall.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1987

19Trad 20m
2 * Vic Bitter

The seam at the right end of the face.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1987

22Trad 20m

1.2.12. Mt Fox Track 2 routes in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trigger Control

Start on the right-hand side of the second major buttress from the right-hand end.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust, 1993

22Trad 25m
2 Use Of Force

The central crack a few metres left of 'Trigger Control', then the corner to finish. Take a #4 cam.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust, Wayne Maher, 1993

20Trad 25m

1.2.13. Mt Fox 29 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.264046, -37.215430

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Burning Black Boys

Start as for 'Fox Tail' (which starts 5m right of a wide corner on the north-facing yellow buttress).

FA: Joe Goding, Sharyn George, 2002

21Unknown 22m
2 * Fox Tail

Up the small corner through a bulge, step right and continue up the next line.

Start: Start 5 metres right of a wide corner.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1991

16Trad 30m
3 Addicted to Placebos

Up the overhanging chimney-corner 5 metres right of "Fox Tail" then head left at the roof, finishing as for "Fox Tail"

FA: Michael Woodrow, Marc Syndnor, 1997

21Trad 45m
4 * Hell Bent

Follow chimney of Addicted to Placebo, then step right and up through overhanging crack.

FA: Jacqui Middleton, David Ceber

21 M2Aid 18m
5 Arctic Fox

Up short wall just right of arete. Step back left to arete and up easily.

Start: Start about 10 metres right of "Hell Bent" at a grey arete.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Mark Poustie, 2000

15Trad 25m
6 Foxy Sox Variant Finish 14Trad
7 Foxy Sox

Up line to arete, follow the arete to the horizontal break, traverse left (continuing up arete from break is grade 14) then to top.

Start: Start at the diagonal 2 metres from the left arete of the little wall..

FA: Julie Nitschke, Campbell Mercer. Direct variant by same pair with lead swapped., 1991

12Trad 10m
8 Hot, Salty, Sticky, Yum

Roof on scooped boulder at left end of cliff

FA: Rick Jeukin, Ross Meffin, 1991

20Mixed 5m, 1
9 * Warwick's Wafflecone

Slab, then overhanging face.

Start: Start at slab opposite "Hot,Salty,Sticky,Yum"

FA: Rick Jeukin, Ross Meffin, 1991

22Mixed 15m, 4
10 Norton Is For Nancy's

???? Needs checking

Start: Start as for "Warwick's Wafflecone"

FA: Rick Jeukin, Ross Meffin, 1991

8Trad 25m
11 Intoxication

Not positively located

FA: Brian Fish, Craig Nottle, Mike Stone, 1983

16Trad 45m
12 Partners In Sleaze

Corner left of "The Radgel" past BR to falkes to "Norton Is For Nancy's

FA: Rick Jeukin, Ross Meffin, 1991

24Trad 25m
13 The Radgel

Apparently radgel may be Cornish for fox. Later accidentally retro-bolted as Warm Salty Bottom Washer; fortunately both the bolts and name have been consigned to the dustbin.

FA: Robin Miller (solo), 1983

18 RTrad 20m
14 Foxy Lady

Blast up arete left of "Reynard's Last Run". Apparently a different arete than that of "The Radgel".

FA: Darren Maskell, Steve Holloway, 1997

20 M0Trad 26m
15 * Reynard's Last Run

Start: Start at the chimney just left of "Fox On The Run"

  1. 26m (-) Climb the chimney to the roof and then the corner-crack above the roof to a large ledge on the left.

  2. 18m (17) Up the beautiful yellow corner to the roof. Exit right and finish easily.

FA: Chris Baxter and Matt Taylor, Mike Stone, 1976

17Trad 44m 2
16 Sly Dog

Alternate first pitch to "Reynard's Last Run"

Start: Start at the corner just right (?left) of "Fox On The Run"

FA: Bruce Sommerfield, Steve Hains, 1990

14Trad 26m
17 Fox on the Run

The right-hand of twin lines left of "Fox Trot".

14Trad 46m
18 * Fox Trot

The crack on the arete left of "Foxfire" has a good start but then gets quite easy.

  1. 26m (17) Step into the crack from the right (direct into crack is grade 18) and up to a ledge.

  2. 18m (-) Finish up the line.

FA: Matt Taylor, Chris Baxter (alt) and Mike Stone. Direct Star : Steve Hains, 1990

17Trad 44m 2
19 Fox Trot Direct Start 18Trad
20 * Foxfire

Originally required extensive cleaning and sieging.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter (alt) and Peter Lindorff, 1977

21Trad 48m
21 Pretty Foxy First Half

Corner crack that ends at old rusty carrot.

21Mixed 17m, 1
22 ** Pretty Foxy

Stunning route up middle of wall. It has been queried if this climb is actually possible but this from Mike Law : "I got pulled /tensioned/short-roped off last moves when belayer collapsed with heatstroke, finished right instead I think. Crux is the steep wall above the crack - pretty Foxy 25+"

26Trad 50m
23 ** Foxtel

Excellent, but serious

FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens, 2006

20 RTrad 50m
24 ** Finger Sighs

Despite the addition of a bolt on the initial arete this is still fairly bold.

  1. 27m (22) Climb the short, rounded arete 3 metres left of "Twentieth 'Century' Fox" past a bolt, stepping right into that climb at 9 metres. Continue up the flakes on TCF and traverse left to the second bolt on that climb. Now diagonally right to another bolt and go right and up to a ledge and bolt anchors.

  2. 23m (19) Climb delicately left and up with poor protection.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

22 RTrad 50m 2
25 *** Twentieth Century Fox

Simply awesome. Sustained, technical and amazing climbing the whole way.

Start: As you walk up to the cliff you chimney just past the start (on a sloping ledge to your left) before you get to a ledge and big flat rock up on your right (great place for photos).

FA: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone, David Gairns, 1978

20Trad 50m
26 * Heaven Seven Eleven

Start: Start at the base of 'Leaner'

  1. 30m (24) Follow the traverse line left to the arete. Up the arete past a bolt (hard to clip) to ledge and bolts. The original poor bolts have been replaced.

  2. 20m (24) Move right into "Leaner" and go up 2 metres. Now go out right onto the overhung arete, passing a fixed wire, or not, as the case may be.

FA: Mike Law. Ian Ravenscrof, Chris Baxter and Robin Miller followed the first pitch only., 1983

23Trad 50m 2
27 Leaner

Wildly overhanging corner right of the silver screen. Rarely repeated. Might need a new bolt.

FA: Mike Law, Kim Carrigan, Greg Child. Summer, 2000

24Trad 45m
28 Blood Sport

People who climb chimneys probably shoot foxes too.

FA: Mike Stone, Francine Gilfedder and Chris Baxter, 1976

14Trad 40m
29 * Baron Von Marlon

Start: The arête 2m right of 'Blood Sport' requires creativity and determination.

FA: Nicholas Kiraly, Anthony Pattison, 2007

25Sport 25m

1.2.14. Corner Crag 1 route in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.263255, -37.218409

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Loitering On The Corner

The only line on the crag is a distinctive corner.

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, 1989

22Trad 40m

1.2.15. The Far Pavilion 33 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.271858, -37.217942

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Far Queue

FA: Lachlan Hick, 2006

24Sport 25m
2 ** Kava Boy

Supposed to be very good

Start: Towards the L end of the main wall is a steep right leaning diagonal crack-line leading up to a prominent hanging buttress, right of a major corner capped by a large roof.

  1. 20m (19) 1) 20m (crux) Climb a steep R-leaning diagonal crack, then swing around the arête and up to belay stance on sloping ledge.

  2. 30m (17) Climb straight up the line to the hanging buttress and up the corner on its right side (mind loose rock)

  3. 10m (19) Step left from belay and up bouldery wall to top (poor pro)

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Burke, 1989

19Trad 60m 3
3 Far Horizons

The easy central section of the main wall, 25m L of Glasnost, offers pleasant climbing. Pro is spaced on the first pitch. 1) 30m The groove system below the major corner is climbed to a belay on the R wall. 2) 30m Traverse R to the obvious cracked arête. Up crack easily to overhang near the top. Up L side of overhang, then step airily R to finish up short corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (alt) and Robert Marshall, 1989

15Trad 60m
4 Going Down In Flames

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter (alt), 1984

15Trad 50m
5 *** The Cold War

(Editor's note: Peter Mills and Nic Kiraly raved about this route for almost 2 weeks after repeating it. The words "Awesome", "stunning" and "mindblowing" could be heard repeatidly for the entire night after this ascent. God knows what Steve & Keith's friends had to endure! Needless to say it is sensational and a must do for solid grade 23 leaders).

Start: Takes the subtle arête in the centre of the main grey wall.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1989

23Trad 60m
6 * Glastnost

A solid route in an excellent position on great rock.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1990

24Trad 50m
7 ** Karenina

Neil raved about this one long into the night...

A sustained and direct line straight up the face right of 'Kava Boy'. The second pitch is like an easier version of 'Archimedes Principle'.

  1. 20m (22) 1) 20m 22 – Up left facing flake crack for a few meters and step left (BR) to gain seam crack. Up this crack which turns briefly into a runnel (#3 SLCD) to second BR and reachy move to gain continuation of cracks. Belay at same stance as end of 'Kava Boy' pitch one.

  2. 30m (22) Up 'Kava Boy' for 5m then step right 3m onto the unlikely cracked face. Up this for 8m to horizontal weakness, dogleg right then left (crux) then continue up the amazing wall (between the two corners) to belay on ledge at end of 'Kava Boy' pitch 2. Bring lots of wires for this pitch

  3. -m (12) The 'Scramble off right' for 'Karenina', 'Seiging Babylon' and 'Brave New World' is recommended as roped climbing rather than scrambling as it's very exposed and perhaps grade 12. From this exit point walk off as for all other main wall routes.

FA: Neil Monteith, Hannah Lockie, 2005

22Trad 60m 3
8 * Sci-fi Lullaby

Climb the initial wall of 'Synthetic Venetian'. At the crack traverse left to the base of the prominent crackline right of 'The Iron Curtain'. Before the crack closes make a rising leftwards traverse (keeping below some loose rock) and then continue straight up slab (crux) and over roof passing 4 bolts to a rap station.

Start: Start as for 'Synthetic Venetian'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, Aaron Wilson, 2006

24Trad 30m
9 *** The Iron Curtain

A brilliant and well-protected climb.

Start: Start as for 'The Cold War'.

  1. 25m (23) Climb corner, then step left onto wall and directly above rock 'fin' to gain crack. Climb this to belay at horizontal break.

  2. 27m (24) Continue up shallow corner (crux) and exit onto wall above. Step right into corner system and follow this up. Beneath the overlap avoid pulling on the loose block; you'll need it to stand on! Gear: Wires, small and medium cams up to 1 camalot. (Note: This took around 5 months of solid attempts to bag the 1st ascent. A very dedicated leader rightly got his glorious prize after much hard work). DBB/Rings

FA: P1 Nicholas Kiraly, Mark Rewi, Josef Goding. P2 Nicholas Kiraly, Mark Rewi 2/06, 2005

24Trad 52m 2
10 The Andrew Martin Memorial Climb

The chimney.

Start: The large right facing corner left of "Kava Boy"

FA: Lachlan Hick, 2006

12Trad 50m
11 Let Sleeping Bluffalos Lie

Ingvar has confirmed the grade.

FA: Lachlan Hick, 2006

12 Synthetic Venetian

Start off block in 'crevasse', move up to undercling, step left, up cracked wall with good nuts to bulge. Over bulge, (good nuts #6 in left seam, #4 in right - placed on rappel) to crimpy crux. Move left to flake and onto base of crack. Up excellent crack to closed corner, step right at top of crack, bridge up to good stance and rest. Move right under roof, up on slopers to belay on ledge. Either finish up headwall a variety of lines (all desperate and dirty) or rappel from ledge (rap station to be installed on good rock horns)

Start: Starts on same terraced area as 'Downtime'. Takes right hand crack/corner line on main wall.

FA: Steve Holloway, Mark Rewi, Nic Kiraly, 2005

22Trad 30m
13 * Propaganda
  1. (15) Climb Far 'Horizon' to bushy ledge, step L onto detached block (scary), traverse L on fantastic holds to base of Kava Boy's upper crack. Up this for a few meters to a semi hanging belay. 2) (19) - Continue up crack, taking L branch, which becomes a steep curving hand crack (crux) to stance on arête. Step back R on great holds and onwards to top. Walk off as for main wall descent down major gully.

FA: Nick Kiraly, Steve Holloway (alt), 2005

19Trad 60m
14 Stephen Holloway Project (closed)

up Glasnost for about 10m, then traverse right past bolt (has bright red tape on it) and up to some natural gear with a sling (no this is not booty!).


15 500 Days

An ambitious program to overcome the economic crisis in the Soviet Union by means of transition into market economy. Also relates to how much time we seem to be spending at this amazing crag.

  1. 25m (21) Climb Glasnost past FH (crux) to flake. Up flake for a few moves, place high nut/cam then delicate traverse left to belay at ledge below flake/corner system immediately left of second orange streak on Glasnost wall.

  2. 20m (19) Climb steep flake corner (bold), over bulge and straight up to semi hanging belay at base of scooped upper wall (right of upper trench/crack of Far Horizons).

  3. 20m (17) Climb middle of scooped slabby wall 3-5m right of 'Far Horizons' tending right, gain RH hand traverse, find hidden holds to escape (up) before arête. Straight up to belay on top.

FA: Steve Holloway (Pitches 1 & 2) Damien Heath (Pitch 3), 2006

21Trad 65m 3
16 Downtime

Up and over flake to first roof/overlap. Over this on good holds to stance, up wall and through R-hand weakness in second roof/overlap, up to belay on terrace or continue up short but tricky headwall with lots of slopers.

Start: Scramble up to blocky terrace at R end of Cold War wall. Takes line around 15-20m right of 'Synthetic Venetian' through series of overlaps at far R end of terrace.

FA: Steve Holloway, Geoff Gledhill, Nic Kiraly, 2005

18Trad 30m
17 ** The Battle of Evermore

A great climb but without the purity of 'The Iron Curtain' (even though it shares much of the best climbing).

  1. 25m (23) 1. 25m (23) As for 'The Iron Curtain'.

  2. 30m (24) Continue up shallow corner (crux) to gain diagonal above. Follow this left through overlap with difficulty and up to finish at top of cliff. Gear as for 'Iron Curtain'

FA: Nic Kiraly, Mark Rewi, 2006

24Trad 55m 2
18 ** Siegeing Babylon

Nice face climbing to gain the central crack. Follow 'Far Horizons' to the 'impending block of doom'. Diagonally left up flakes in middle of wall until holds run out. Move L then up with trepidation to gain horizontal. Easily up central crack.

FA: Mark Rewi, Steve Holloway, Nicholas Kiraly (a couple of previous attempts succumbed to aid), 2006

23Trad 60m
19 Hairy Legs

Just a route.

FA: Michael Hampton, Martin Tatton (alt), 2005

20 The Five Year Plan
  1. 20m (18) Start up 'Kava Boy' but where it ducks out right, head straight up the arete via a tricky move. Follow arete for a few more metres, then climb straight up face until you get to a ledge just right of the arete.

  2. 30m (17) From ledge head up face above, trending rightwards, until you hit the diagonal crack heading out of 'Kava Boy' (Propaganda), follow this up to corner. In corner, place high cam then step right and blast up on jugs in an exposed position, then up crack, past little slab, moving right up final slabby headwall.

FA: Chris Snell, Ross Taylor (alt), 2009

18Unknown 50m 2

above "Let Sleeping Buffalo's lie" is an obvious (very) steep crack, which cuts left across a huge roof. There are some bolt runners above the roof. There is also a very handy rap station at the top of the route which is also useful for 'Kava Boy', and "Karenina". Just be careful when stepping down to it!

FA: All Ingvar needs is a willing belayer and a decent day and this will go down for sure!, 2000

22 * Little Johnny Warpig

Takes second corner crack to the right of 'Kava Boy'. As for 'Far Horizons' to belay ledge, continue for a few meters up short clean corner, step left to base of crack. Up corner crack to belay on terrace. Rope scramble off right.

FA: Steve Holloway, Mark Rewi, Nic Kiraly, 2006

23 Mark Rewi Project (closed)

The line to the right of 'Iron Curtain' has 6 bolts and is a project. Expect grade 26.

24 Let the Fun Begin

Wall to L of 'Kava Boy' 1) (16) Climb chimney between slab and wall, past first thrutchy section, then step right onto wall. Up wall, with rock getting better as height is gained, tending right to belay below small corner on near arête. 2) (16) Up corner, step left, then straight up wall to final off width crack, which can be avoided on the right. Descent via main wall walk off via major gully.

FA: Nic Kiraly, Steve Holloway (alt), 2005

16Trad 55m
25 The Stench of Christmas

A minor addition.

FA: Mark Rewi, Steve Holloway, Nic Kiraly, 2005

13Trad Far Pavilion Left Side 8 routes in Cliff
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.271801, -37.216819

1.3. Red Rock Area 241 routes in Crag

Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.267873, -37.228858

Access Issues:

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

1.3.1. Band Of Gypsies 37 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.262075, -37.220399

Description:© (nmonteith)

A pleasant group of sunny walls, pinnacles and terraces lining the gully immediately north of Red Rock Pinnacles.

Great in cool, sunny weather, not so if it's warm.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

To climb at the lower end of Band of Gypsies, wander

across to the end of the vehicle track, cross the creek,

walk up to the cliff line and follow it uphill to the first


For the upper section, follow a pad across to the Cave Boulder, which is directly in front of "Dutch Courage".


For the lower walls walk off the west or the east ends via

the chasm gully. There are plenty of abseil options.

Beyond the chasm the best option is to abseil, either

from the chains and slings indicated or from one of

many bollards. (BYO slings). The best scramble descent

is via narrow rib at the top (east) end of the main crags.

This rib is in a gully just i from the north-east toe of the


RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Over The Top

Bridge trench to steep finish.

Start: Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle.

FA: . Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

13Trad 25m
2 * The Upside of Anger

Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight

up diagonal seams.

Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer"

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

17Mixed 18m, 1
3 ** Grand Oral Disseminator

Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2005

27Mixed 25m, 1
4 Squeezed Out

Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts". Take several #5 cams

FA: Pfrunder, Malcolm Matheson

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson, 2005

21Mixed 13m, 2
5 * Arrested

Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

24Trad 12m
6 * Over Committed

Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mick Hampton, 2005

20Mixed 20m, 2
7 * Slow Burn

FA: Mick Hampton & Geoff Butcher

20Trad 20m
8 * Crazy Like a Fox

Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.

Start: Start at right-leading ramp.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

19Trad 22m
9 * Mad Cow

Pretty exciting stuff.

Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox"

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

20Trad 22m
10 Steve Holloway Route

FA: Steve Holloway, 2005

20Trad 15m
11 * Nick Route

FA: 2005

22Trad 15m
12 Bury Me Standing

Stick clip first FH, bridge to first holds, stepping right into base of right-leading seam. Up over bulges (2 FHs) to stance at base of rotten crack. Arrange gear, step left and up jugs to top.

Start: Start at far end of small block in front of orange wall of the semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Steve Holloway, Nick Kiraly, 2005

21Trad 18m
13 * Errol Flynn

Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005

18Mixed 20m, 1
14 Dutch Courage

Steep, right-facing corner left of "Blogger".

FA: Mark Gould, Boudewijn Docter, 2005

20Trad 18m
15 Bulldozer In The Background

Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree.

Start: Start at chimney left of buttress left of "Queen of Der".

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

10Trad 20m
16 * Gypsy Swing

Unsercut arete left of "Band Of Thieves" swinging in from the left on a diagonal.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

17Trad 18m
17 Rag And Bone

Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.

Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

11Trad 40m
18 Reading Palms

Grassy corner on left end of semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Steve Holloway, Peter Mills, 2005

14Trad 18m
19 * Queen Of Der

A tasty excursion.

Start: Start as for "Eloquence Of Speech".

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2006

21Mixed 26m, 2
20 Flashing Eyes

Blocky Line up left of "Gypsy Swing" with a fiery second pitch.

  1. 18m (18) Climb the blocky line. Step left onto arête and go up to belay at base of headwall.

  2. 18m (19) Start up middle of steep wall, then move back right at top of orange streak to finish at notch a few metres left of right arête.

FA: Micahel Hampton, Sharyn George (alt), 2005

19Trad 36m 2
21 * Transylvanian Trad

Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don't rap from bollard or you'll end up in

the trees: continue to top

Start: Start at wall left of orange undercut.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

20Trad 20m
22 Bohemian Ridge

Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs" is blocked by a black slab.

FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005

16Trad 45m
23 Nice Knobs

Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of

the chasm.

FA: Sharyn George, Michael Hampton, 2005

12Trad 40m
24 Read Rover

Enjoyable face with good gear.

FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005

18Trad 25m
25 In A Dark Wood Wandering

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005

12Trad 18m
26 A Fortune Teller

Diagonally right up the grassland as for"In A Dark Wood Wandering" to the right-R leading crack. Step

across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and

horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil.

Start: Start as for "In A Dark Wood Wandering".

FA: Sharyn George, Michael Hampton, 2005

13Trad 25m
27 Dead Horses

From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto

ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

16Mixed 27m, 1
28 Steal My Fingers

Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to

easier finish.

Start: Start as for "Gypsy Swing".

FA: Nic Kiraly, Steve Holloway, 2005

20Trad 18m
29 Eloquence Of Speech

Climb wall behind small pinnacle to horizontal break.

Climb small edges past FH to easier ground,

finishing steeply at juggy break.

FA: Steve Holloway, Nic Kiraly, 2005

21Trad 20m
30 * Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE)

Interesting alternate finish to "Mad Cow".

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman, Ross Timms, 2006

20Trad 25m
31 Steptoe And Scum

Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall.

Start: On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

20Trad 18m
32 * Band Of Thieves

Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ.

FA: FRA Tim Marsh, 2003

19Trad 23m
33 Heavy Milk, Light Beer

Easy crack left of "Bulldozer In The Background".

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

13Trad 17m
34 Blogger

Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner.

Start: Start as for "Transylvanian Trad".

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

15Trad 20m
35 Johnny Depp

Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack.

Start: Start on the left between some pines.

FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005

20Trad 23m
36 * Private Parts

Major crack system around left of "Grand Oral Disseminator", behind boulder.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

21Trad 26m
37 Gypsy, Sun And Rainbow

Stick clip first FH, and up it, as for "Bury Me Standing". Up and left to horizontal seam and wire placement. Up past FH to vertical crack and easy ground.

Start: Start as for "Bury Me Standing"

FA: Nick Kiraly, Steve Holloway, 2005

22Mixed 18m, 2

1.3.2. Red Rock Pinnacle 62 routes in Crag

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.261998, -37.221582

Description:© (nmonteith)

This complex area has emerged from obscurity and now contains a wealth of quality sport, semi-sport and trad routes on some of the best rock in 'Victoria'. With easy access and a good variety of grades this crag is destined for popularity. The

three dimensional nature of the area means you can climb in the shade all day long or be protected from light rain. The big boulder caves also offer great exploration and have the habit of eating loose shoes or �biners. Routes have a mixture of old

school hangerless machine bolts and newer ringbolts and fixed hangers. A basic trad rack is required on some of these climbs.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

12 minutes mostly flat walk.

Park on Red Rock Road immediately opposite the large pinnacle with distinctive steep orange west face about 1km south of Mt Fox carpark (refer to 'Grampians' Select guide by Tempest/Mentz). Hop over the fence and stroll across the paddocks and enter some light scrub (hopefully spotting the local emus and grey kangaroos). The first big boulder

with a couple of rusty hangers on the west face is Pellant Pinnacle.

Some of this information comes from Micheal Hampton�s forthcoming 'Victoria' Ranges guidebook. Buy it in a store - some time this decade - perhaps.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sweat of Effort

Prominent leftwards leaning line on west facing wall 30m south of Vertebrae. Bulgy 'Arapiles' style rock. Awkward slabby closed corner to start then pumpy traversing to finish. Good gear but needs a bit of a clean.

FA: Malcolm Matheson Neil Monteith, 2004

23Trad 20m
2 * Get What You Paid For

Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt loweroff. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two.

FA: Neil Monteith Adam Demmert, 2004

23Trad 15m
3 Vertabrae

A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Rap off double rings.

FA: Neil Monteith

19Trad 15m
4 The Backbone

Up Verterbrae to 4th bolt then step delicatly right onto arete and around onto face (FH). Desperate move up small edges to good finger lock finish. DRB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

24Trad 12m
5 Kentucky Fried Clippin'

Overheating sport fun for summer. Thin climbing up short rounded arete opposite 'Vertabrae'. Three FHs. Either lower-off hanging tree branch (!) or walk back to tree belay.

FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2005

20Mixed 8m, 3
6 * Red Rock Arete

A fairly good climb, taking the L arete of the main face. Start from a ledge gained by scrambling up the boulder choked gully. Climb a short crack from the R side of the ledge then move back left to the arete and up and slightly right to more cracks leading up to the arete again. Move around left of the arete and up to a ledge (belay possible) to finish up the final, steeply overhanging arete. Double ropes a

must. Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy March 89

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy, 1989

23Trad 35m
7 ** English Rose

A continuous pitch up the centre of the face, gradually steepening as it goes. Desperate friction moves (mossy) 5m left of 'Redback' lead past a BR to a slim groove. Up left past a

second BR to gain a thin crack which leads to the prominent diagonal. Continue more easily up the left leading diagonal crack to a thin vertical crack. When the crack ends, lurch left to gain another overhanging crack, which leads to the top. First pitch is mossy.

FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, 1989

26Trad 45m
8 ** Redback

Needs a good brushing down low. A fine face pitch leads to wild swings through the top overhang. 1) 25m (24) Climb tenuously past a BR 10m L of the R arete and continue R-ward to a second BR. Up and R to good slots and continue diagonally R to gain short groove and the ledge on SW arete. 2) 30m (25) Up to gain the prominent undercut 'jug' on the arete. Heave over the roof and up to a rest. Swing around on to the W face and go up, it gets easier, to the top. The bolts don't look so flash anymore.

FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, Martin Scheel, 1989

25Trad 55m
9 * Redback pitch 1 24Trad 25m
10 ** Redback pitch 2

FA: Steve Monks

25Trad 20m
11 Dang

An alternative first pitch to 'Redback'. Starts 10m down and left of 'Conflict of Interest' at prominent arête between west facing orange wall and south facing grey wall. Nice balancy climbing with three FH's. Belay on ledge with natural gear. Scramble off to the right (roped) or continue upwards into 'Redback' – grade 25.

FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2004

20Sport 9m
12 Red Ragging

One for the peak baggers. The easiest route on the southern pinnacle. Scramble up the S face to a ledge on the SW arete. Traverse right above red overhang with poor pro then climb directly to the top on juggy grey rock.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, Peter Riddy, 1989

17Trad 30m
13 The Propaganda Machine

Starts 3m right of 'Red Ragging' on south face of southern pinnacle. Up

and left on orange rock with no gear to left leading small crack through bulge at 5m. Stem through bulge and swing out left to meet up with 'Red Ragging'. Follow it for a few metres then head diagonally right aiming for the prominent left leaning orange corner. Up corner using jugs on big hollow sounding block to finish with bouldery left traverse to ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith

19Trad 35m
14 Full Metal Vengeance

This one's for 'Justin Thyme'. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for 'Conflict of Interest' on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2005

23Sport 26m, 6
15 * Conflict of Interest

Popular. Sport climbing up a grey techincal face on nubbins. Starts about 5m right of 'Red Ragging' on far right side of the south face. Wander up ultra grey jugs for 6m until you reach the red scooped rock (FH), step right then up through small roof then onwards past seven ringbolts to DRB lower off. Grade depends on how direct you pull the roof move. The further right you go the easier it gets!

FA: Neil Monteith

20Sport 25m, 7
16 * Conflicting Vengeance Linkup / Conflicting Vengeance

Links the start of 'Conflict of Interest' into the excellent juggy finish of 'Full Metal Vengeance'. Cross over at COI's third bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

19 to 20Sport 30m
17 ** Chrysalis

Rising techincal traverse and crimpy face out left from 'Fat Fingered Freak'.

Start: From FFFs 2nd bolt head hard left on shallow slots to big break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin stuff to lower-off. 6 rings. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

27Sport 20m
18 Fat Fingered Freak

Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent.

FA: Nick McKinnon

23Sport 18m, 4
19 Height of Darkness

Face with three BRs (then natural protection) opposite Fat Fingered Freak. Descent is currently via a selection of fixed slings and carabiners.

FA: Neil Monteith and Jacqui Middleton, 2003

15Mixed 20m, 3
20 The Constant Gardener

Start 15 metres right of The Height of Darkness and follow grassy middle crackline left until it runs out. Finish up 1 metre right of The Height Of Darkness. Belay off chicken heads.

FA: Louis Godsell, Jimmy Stephens

21 ** Variance

One of the best routes here and quite popular.Varied climbing! Starts 5m right of 'Fat Fingered Freak'. Stick clip RB from block. Jump for jug and mantle onto ledge. Clip BR and step right then trend back left along sloping orange edge (BR) to under cracked bulge. Pull through this strenuously protected by wires to jug at base of small corner. Clip BR; stem into corner for a few moves then reach out left to escape hold that leads to jugs and top. Single u-bolt lower-off WARNING - single clip and go anchor could be unsafe - please thread direct through Ubolt rather than using the biner. Single set of wires and a finger size cam is the only trad gear required.

FA: Neil Monteith

23Mixed 18m, 4
22 * One Ring to Bind Them

The overhung knifeblade arete about 5m right of 'Variance'. Surprisingly pumpy and sustained. Stickclip RB for bouldery start then hang on for the ride up fragile sharp pockets and flakes past a BR and three UBs. This used to be mostly trad but was subsequently retroed to make it actually enjoyable. It was even solo-aided on trad by Neil as a means to get to the summit! WARNING - single clip-and-go lower off biner should not be used. Please thread directly through u-bolt. These biners can snap at very low weights.

FA: Neil Monteith

23Mixed 15m, 4
23 Better Up Than Down

4m Left of Grey Matter. Straight up to the top. First move is the crux. The rest of the climb is grade 12 up fragile featured wall. Pull over the right side of the red overhang.

FA: Lewis Clarey, Abdul Rahman, 5th Dec

16Trad 30m
24 Grey Matter

Long gentle wall left of 'Womble'. First move off the ground is the crux. John Taylor and Mark Sewell did an un-recorded climb in this vicinity during Easter 1978. Start in the gap between 'Red Rock Pinnacle' and the 'Hamstrung' pinnacle. Pull onto the wall then follow intermittent seams up the grey wall, trending gradually rightwards. If the first move is problematic, you can bridge between the two pinnacles.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Pete Canning, Norm Booth, Ed Neve, 2003

13Trad 25m
25 Womble

Easy juggy face on wall opposite I Just Called etc. Start on the right side just left of the arete. Rock is fragile and protection is a little sparse. This is the easiest way to the summit.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

13Trad 20m
26 So, You Think You Can Dance?

Skanky. The arete with two RBs just right of 'Womble', via the undercut direct start. 'Missing' a third bolt. Stickclip first bolt, and step across from small block oposite to gain rock. Up very fragile mega jugs onto arete. Scamper up the left side (trying to avoid Womble). Place some marginal wires in fragile rock then go up and clip third FH of 'Dislocation' (with difficulty). Finish up the arete past another FH to lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

20 RTrad 15m
27 Dislocation

A much better way onto the arete via the orange face around right.

Start: Start just left of large suspended block, 3m left of Stricke The First Blow and 2m right of the left arete.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

21Sport 15m
28 * Static Ticking Rampage

Scoopy steep sport route. Starts below suspended chockstone belay of STFB on backside of northern pinnacle. Up into scoop and over rooflet then easily up jugs to tricky step right onto small ledge. Blast straight up orange overhung wall above to horizontal break and finish up left past the last FH of STFB to its rap chain. 6 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith Tim Lee, 2003

22Sport 20m, 6
29 ** Strike the First Blow

On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs.

FA: Neil Monteith

25Trad 17m
30 A Bolt Too far / A Bolt to Far

The extension is an open project

FA: Adam Dememrt, Neil Monteith & Catherine de vaus, 2006

22Sport 10m
31 ** Struck Twice

Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face about 10m right of 'Static Ticking Rampage'. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!) Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

24Trad 17m
32 Hamstrung

Directly left of 'English Rose' is a gully. Left of this is an 'Arapiles' style unclimbed overhung crack. Left of this is an easy angled left facing orange corner (about 10m right of Struck Twice). Up this to meet with top of pine tree. Peer around the corner to find horizontal rising crack with occasional tufts of grass. Traverse desperately along this with nigh all footholds to end up perched on sharp rest flake. Finish up easy jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith

18Trad 30m
33 ** Insha'Allah

Long admired - now climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the west face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of 'Hamstrung'. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-off.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2007

FA: Adam Demmert, 2007

27Sport 15m, 6
34 ** Wave of Mutilation

A tricky crux on sensational turtle shell rock. The route begins at the left hand end of the Trench. Follow three FH to a chain anchor. A #2 Rock will protect the start, or stick-clip the first bolt.

FA: Tim Marsh

24Trad 12m
35 ** Spinal Tap

Would be a three star megaclassic if it wasn't tucked away in this gully. 4m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Chimney up the start to the first FH. Flakes, pockets and heucos lead up steep orange wall past eight FHs. Watch the lurking block behind you between the fourth and sixth bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith

23Trad 20m
36 * Used Platypus Condom

Steep pumpy jug hauling on orange rock. Located on upper wall deep inside chasm. Two RB's to start then medium gear to DRB lower off.

FA: Neil Monteith

19Trad 16m
37 Over And Out

Wide overhung trench 4m right of 'Used Platypus Condom'. No wide trad gear required. Surprisingly steep and interesting. Walk off descent.

FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005

18Trad 13m
38 * Raver Girl

A pumpy rising traverse on gritty rock with a nails hard start. Starts 5m right of 'Over And Out' at right edge of undercut grey wall. Boulder past FH to gain horizontals. 'Monkey' leftwards across these (medium SLCD's) to a flake forming an arête. Up this arete (FH) to finish. Walk off descent.

FA: Hannah Lockie Neil Monteith, 2005

20Trad 15m
39 * Raver Boy

A thin direct finish to 'Raver Girl'. Climb past first FH to horizontals. Arrange pro (medium SLCD's) and head rightwards on thin crimpers past FH to good holds. Up juggy wall past 3rd FH to top. Walk off descent.

FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005

21Trad 11m
40 Bellrock

The black slabs opposite 'Static Ticking Rampage' with prominent bolts. The left line. Up the slab past three FHs. A thin crux through the bulge (well protected by bolt) and finish up the arête as for 'Gandolf the Grey'. May be easier if you are tall. Double Bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne

21Sport 25m, 6
41 Gandolf the Grey

Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne

17Sport 25m, 5
42 Pike

Good, delicate and well protected slab climbing. The slab and shallow cracks 5 meters left of Aelutian Crack. Climb short grassy crack onto the slab then follow the cracks to the base of the compact red/orange corner. Move left and finish up 'Cindy'.

FA: David Jupp, Tim Marsh & Michael Homfray, 2002

17Trad 35m
43 Wimbleton

Directly opposite 'Strike the First Blow', is a juggy wall. Start a few metres right and climb the grey face which gets easier the higher you get. At the small red cave climb out the overhung right side and up easily to ledge. There is a mystery bolted rap anchor in the cave.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

14Trad 40m
44 Bikini Bootcamp

Two weeks to a beach body. A good warm-up route or worthwhile in its own right.

Start: Starts just right of descent gully for the 'Back Wall' routes (about 10m right of Height of Darkness) at small pillar.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

20Sport 10m, 4
45 Two Weeks to a Beach Body

Intense plaything.

Start: Starts 1m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

22Sport 10m, 3
46 Anniversary Equation

Arete / face downhill from Bikini Bootcamp. Start up RH side of slabby grey rib (as for Gimli) to base of undercut arete, up arete / wall past 3 x FH to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 2014

19Sport 12m, 4
47 * Aleutian Crack

The shrubbery isn't as bad as it looks! On the left side of the entrance to the Marianas Trench there is a wide crack. From the ground, scramble up on jumbled blocks for 5 meters to gain the base of the crack. A couple of layback moves take you to a grassy ledge. Climb the slab on the left of the crack to avoid some vegetation before stepping back into the line and on to the top. A big cam (4 Camalot or similar) is useful.

FA: David Jupp & Tim Marsh, 2002

16Trad 35m
48 No Habla Espanol

On the South East face of the pinnacle is a bottomless wide crack. Up crack (crux) on good gear then head left up rampy corner. Finish up vertical crack on jugs. Rap from bolt anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais.

FA: Marcel Geelen & Jac Cutter, 2002

16Trad 14m
49 * Je Ne Parle Pas Français

Technical slabby crimpers.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'No Habla Espanol'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

23Trad 14m
50 Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches

Short steep crack.

Start: On the north side of the pillar are two right leading lines. This one climbs the right one. When the crack runs out reach up to horizonal, then step right and up juggy groove to top. Rap off anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

19Trad 10m
51 Human Centipede

Right facing flake crack in gully 100m below north Red Rocks pinnacle.

FA: Neil Monteith, Vanessa Wills

20Trad 12m
52 * Non Parlo Italiano

Short intense fun on great quality rock.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches', just left of small tree.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

23Trad 10m
53 Pike Direct

A direct finish up the compact red/orange corner and the arete above has been top roped in the low 20's (depending upon reach), however, both rock and protection are poor.

FA: Tim Marsh & Michael Homfray, 2002

21Trad 35m
54 Elver

Two meters left of 'Cindy' is a broken chimney which splits the slab in half. Start 1-2m left of this chimney (5m left of Cindy) and follow the cracks in the slab before weaving through the tufts of grass above. A tricky start with minimal gear quickly gives way to very easily protected if occasionally mossy climbing.

FA: David Jupp, Michael Homfray & Tim Marsh, 2002

9Trad 30m
55 Moria

Another worthless addition. Starts about 3m right of 'Wimbleton' at smooth part of grey wall. Up a few moves then right 2m. Follow easing seam, trending slightly left, to break overhang just right of the small red cave on 'Wimbleton'.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, Ray Lassman, 2003

16Trad 40m
56 Sharon's Face (Project)

Needs bolts. Orange face and thin flake.

FA: Top-roped Sharon George, 2004

23Trad 8m
57 I Just Called To Say I Love You

Starts 7m right of One Ring To Bind Them. Right leading ramp leads to bulge, then left past protruding knob and up. Watch for the perched block of doom. Leader slung knob for aid.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

18 M1 RTrad 15m
58 An Ewok Adventure 25m 14

Orange streak on right, then to Kauk Is My Hero's rap station.

FA: Ross Meffin, Rick Jeukin (solo), 1991

14Trad 25m
59 Cindy

Well protected moderate slab climbing with an entertaining finish. The short chimney crack to a dog leg crack three meters left of Pike. Take the ramp up right to the base of the shallow orange corner at the apex of the wall which is passed on the right.

FA: David Jupp & Tim Marsh, 2002

14Trad 35m
60 * Bathysphere

One of the hardest routes at Red Rocks. Unrepeated. Four FHs up thin orange face 3m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Finish is an awkard and tough mantle into the scoop.

FA: Tim Marsh, 2004

25Sport 15m
61 Gimli

Starts 3m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'. Climb easy-angled grey rib for about 7m, step left then steeply to top of pinnacle. Descent can be accomplished over the next pinnacle or off the rap anchors on 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

FA: Ray Lassman, Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2003

14Trad 25m
62 The impossible corner Project

Closed Project At the very back and top of Red Rocks is an imposing overhanging Corner. Awesome Position

FA: 2012

Sport Project

1.3.3. Pellant Pinnacle 5 routes in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Kilogram Of Pellant Please

Flake crack at left end of wall.

FA: Rick Jeukin, Ross Meffin, 1991

16Trad 12m
2 Big Red Horny Thing

Blunt orange arete with large horn right of Kilogram etc. Two useless FHs which are positioned in impossible to clip situations. Ignore them and place good trad instead. Rap off bollard or continue up another 20m of rubbish juggy rock. The start is much harder than grade 14.

FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991

14Trad 10m
3 Bottom Juice

Not very appetising and hopelessly contrived. 'Flake' (2 FHs), at right end of west wall.

FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991

16Trad 7m
4 Kauk Is My Hero

Ron would be ashamed of this effort. left orange streak on wall right of 'Bottom Juice', then wall above to rap station.

FA: Ross Meffin, 1991

16Trad 25m
5 An Ewok Adventure 14Trad 25m

1.3.4. Gallery No. 1 2 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

This was the original cliff called "The Gallery" in this area but, despite much easier access than its namesake, this one has never caught on. The name has been adjusted to prevent confusion.

A few hundred metres up the north side of Red Rock Creek from Red Rock Road is a collection of chossy pinnacles. The highest and most easterly pinnacle has a long, overhanging north wall.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach by walking up the north side of the creek, around the east side of the pinnacles and up the gully behind.

GR 117793

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Art For Art's Sake

Slippery finger-jamming in the striking diagonal line followed by easier but loose climbing to a dramatic finish.

Start: Start from a cave passing right through the pinnacles.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1989

21Trad 35m
2 * Niche Market 22Trad 20m

1.3.5. Crag X 77 routes in Crag

Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.267627, -37.228184

Description:© (nmonteith)

Crag X is a north-facing crag on the south side of Red Rock Creek with a distinctive orange wall streaked with black and white.

'Queensland' Cliff is located closer to the road but higher than Crag X and has two salient left-leaning diagonals.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park 200 metres south of the bridge over Red Rock Creek on Red Rock Road. Crag X is the obvious cliff on the south side of the Red Rock Creek Valley. Croos the paddocks and head up the valley about 100-200 metres above the creek, just below the first tier of rocky outcrops.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Counting Your X Before They Hatch

The big corner at the far right-hand side of the cliff. Scramble up the easy ramp to the base of the corner.

  1. 25m (-) Climb the mossy chimney to belay on a chockstone

  2. 35m (18) Delightful bridging up the corner on clean orange rock. Traverse off right when the corner blanks out.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks (alt) and Keith Lockwood, 1989

18Trad 60m 2
2 Counting Your X Before They Hatch Direct Finish 21Trad
3 A Visit From The Footbinder

The only slab for miles.

Start: Start on a detached flake 8 metres left of an arete.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Jane Wilkinson, Steve Monks, Simon Mentz, 1989

23Mixed 30m, 1
4 ** Promise Not to Tell

The improbable-looking left-leaning crack on the far left-hand side of Crag X, behind a huge free-standing pinnacle.

  1. 20m (19) Gain the muddy corner from the right and go up to recline on the ledge.

  2. 25m (22) Up the diagonal and then launch out over the sickening void on buckets.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd (alt), 1989

22Trad 45m 2
5 *** Labyrinths

Start: Start at the left end of the

  1. 12m (24) Boulder past bolt, then left into scoop and rest. Exit right and up and bely on ledge.

  2. 38m (25) Crux past bolt then sustained past fixed RP to horizontal break with big jugs. Diagonally right for 2 metres to finish up steep but easier crack.

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd (alt) and Parrish Robbins., 1989

25Mixed 50m 2, 2
6 ** Mysterious Journey

The left arete of the huge block leaning against the cliff about 50 metres left of "Don't Count Your X Before They Hatch"

  1. 25m (26) Past pin and desperately past bolt then slightly easier to belay. Scramble to top of blcok.

  2. 30m (26) From the apex of the block, climb up into scoop, left to runners (#1 cam, big nut in a hole). Left and up flake, lurch right past bolt onto flakes, right and on to top.

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, 1989

26Mixed 55m 2, 1
7 *** Alecto 25Trad 28m
8 Misty Varient 22Trad 30m
9 *** Misty

FA: Benjamin Eichler

23Trad 25m
10 * Sweet 21Trad 15m
11 Dude 21Trad 15m
12 ** Pixie 20Trad 15m
13 Russian Roulette 24Trad 12m
14 * Culture Shock 17Trad 15m
15 Mixed Lollies 13Trad 30m
16 Mase 16Trad 20m
17 ** Bees Knees (Sit Start (S)) V5Boulder
18 Eye Candy (s) V3Boulder
19 Dirty Sanchez (s) V5Boulder
20 Mosquito (S) V3Boulder
21 *** Jumping Jack Flash (s) V8Boulder
22 Chained to the Massess (s) V3Boulder
23 * Dead Beat Traverse V3Boulder
24 ** Point Blank V4Boulder
25 ** Shifty (s) V5Boulder
26 *** Scorched Fingers (s) V7Boulder
27 Kang (s) V4Boulder
28 Mini Mon V5Boulder
29 Mezzagade V4Boulder
30 Mary Poppins V3Boulder
31 * Butterfly Effect ( s) V5Boulder
32 ** Nogan (s)

FA: Benjamin Eichler

33 Black Jack V1Boulder
34 Sumba V1Boulder
35 Anti Freeze V3Boulder
36 Honey Smacks V2Boulder
37 *** Sub Zero V3Boulder
38 *** Mr Grace V1Boulder
39 Society Overload V0Boulder
40 Ocean Linear V5Boulder
41 *** Cadence V2Boulder
42 Grabbing at Stars V1Boulder
43 *** Shaddowfax (s) V6Boulder
44 Besiden V6Boulder
45 Velour (s) V11Boulder
46 * Time Lord (s) V2Boulder
47 Neighbours in Space (s) V1Boulder
48 ** The Tardis (S) V3Boulder
49 Light Speed (s) V3Boulder
50 Another Planet (s) V1Boulder
51 400-Light years (s) V2Boulder
52 Night Sky (s0 V2Boulder
53 G-Force (s) V2Boulder
54 Korendor V2Boulder
55 *** Miggerra (s) V8Boulder
56 ** Medossa (s) V7Boulder
57 * Snoop V5Boulder
58 MightyMouse (s) V3Boulder
59 Spontaneous Combustion (s) V4Boulder
60 Dryreach (s) V0Boulder
61 Steam Machine (s) V6Boulder
62 * Wound socket (s) V2Boulder
63 AC Joint (s) V3Boulder
64 Heavens Above V1Boulder 6m
65 My Mumma says (s) V0Boulder
66 * Shopping Trolley V1Boulder
67 Isle Number 6 (s) V2Boulder
68 Check out chick (s) V2Boulder
69 Price Check (s) V1Boulder
70 Police Station (s) V1Boulder
71 * Jail Break (s) V4Boulder
72 Caterpualt (s) V2Boulder
73 Bobet V3Boulder
74 *** Ambers (s) V5Boulder
75 ** Acid Jazz V3Boulder
76 Counting Your X Variant Finish

Instead of exiting right at the top, launch out left along a superb hand traverse.

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Keith Lockwood, 1989

77 Ramble On

Enjoyable, easy ramble. To get off - back climb down and right to step onto huge rock (which forms the right hand side of the aforementioned tunnel/cave). *Tricky Bouldering to get off this on the south side, or very exposed nth side (not recommended).

Start: Starts just right of "Counting Your X Before They Hatch", just left of small cave/tunnel at detached block leaning onto face.

FA: Joe Goding, Lawrie Cowley, Paul Tailien, 2005

10Trad 18m

1.3.6. Picasso Block 2 routes in Crag

Trad and Aid
Description:© (kieranl)

A west-facing crag about 10 minutes walk due east of Crag X. It is distinguished by an overhanging south wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Weeping Woman

The south-west arete of the block gives an unusual and unlikely climb.

FA: Steve Monks, Parrish Robbins, Louise Shepherd, 1990

25 M1Aid 40m
2 Cubism

Start: Starts at the west side of the pinnacle immediately right of the 'Picasso Block'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks (alt), 1990

22Trad 40m

1.3.7. Queensland Cliff 2 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.264135, -37.228628

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gay Express To Queensland
  1. 20m (23) Strenuously up the left-leading diagonal.

  2. 20m (25) Boulder off the belay and grunt up the overhanging layback corner. At left (?) got tenuously left onto wall and to top.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks (alt), 1989

25Trad 40m 2
2 Perestroika In Queensland
  1. 15m (23) Boulder up and left into corner and go up.

  2. 20m (24) Up the corner (#4 cam). At the ledge move left onto face and up (to avoid the slot)

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks (alt), 1989

24Trad 35m 2

1.3.8. Eagle Rock 3 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.259141, -37.231646

Description:© (nmonteith)

Limited area with one excellent climb.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

The crag is on the south side of the hill immediately south of Red Rock Creek and overlooks the road. Take the first turn-off south of Red Rock Creek (0.9 km north of the junction with Billywing Rd) and park at a gravel quarry.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Daddy Cool

Start up a chimney-crack a few metres left of a large corner, passing on the outside of a big block. Exit right at the top of the chimney and veer up right on the surprising wall.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1988

16Trad 35m
2 *** The Day of the Fox

Striking Orange and Grey corner that can be seen from the road. Perfect rock and easy access.

  1. 20m (20) Up the line to ledge below the steep headwall.

  2. 10m (21) Exciting climbing up the line.

FA: Chris Baxter and Geoff Gledhill, Ian Ravenscroft, 1988

21Trad 30m 2
3 Hotel California

Left-leaning ramp 15 metres right of "Day Of The Fox". Above the bulge, finish just right of the arete.

FA: Steve Hamilton, Tim Burke, 1989

17Trad 20m

1.3.9. Scoop Rocks 23 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.267149, -37.237079

Description:© (nmonteith)

A complex area of caves and buttresses hidden from the road in behind 'Eagle Rock'. The best quality routes are the furthest away, up on the aptly named Prow. You can always find something shady and climbable in summer around here. In winter it can be a biting wind tunnel.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive north along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn left at a fork in the track and drive across two large gravel pits to the far eastern side (2WDs might have problems on the big ditches!). Find a very vague cairned or tape marked track on the west edge of this gravel pit. Follow this track across flat ground for 10 minutes until you hit a large gully with small rock buttresses on the far side. Drop down and across this swampy gully and up to the rock buttress on the far side. Walk along the bottom of these small crags leftwards and steeply uphill for another 10 minutes to arrive at 'Poison Bait' cave. You'll pass several impressive but mostly blank walls on the way along. To get up to the main Prow you will need to scramble/solo up the very juggy wall just right of 'Poison Bait' cave. Beginners might need a rope for this.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stone Circus

A wee bit of jamming. A slabby start leads to the diagonal line. At the final overhangs, step R to the finishing crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1988

18Trad 40m
2 All Said And Done

A little bon-bon above 'Stone Circus'. Scramble 45m above 'Stone Circus' to a distinctive crack on the corner of the buttress above. A steep jam crack leads to pretty corner, which quickly eases.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1988

17Trad 12m
3 * Angry Arborist

Located on north facing wall about 100m west of 'Framed' (The Prow). Traverse up and left along easy wall (cam & RB) to below big heuco. Very reachy (impossible if short!) crux dyno to hecuo and into small cave. Out right and up steep wall to lower off. Six ringbolts.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

23Trad 25m
4 Hippy Tree Hugger 16Trad 20m
5 Hippy Tree Hugger Direct 21Trad 17m
6 Malcolms Steep Crack

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2004

25Trad 10m
7 * Talon

The left line in the cave. Cruxy flake on the lower wall, then juggy roof to finish. 5 RBs. Grade is skeptical as Neil thought it was much harder than 'Poison Bait'.


25Trad 13m
8 ** Poison Bait

Bouldery start with five metre cieling. A sport classic!

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

26Mixed 12m, 5
9 * Hunchback

Very enjoyable. At the left side of the wall is a line of jugs. Steeply up these to a tiny stance in corner then keep going straight up the juggy rib to easier ground.

FA: Glen Tempest, 1994

17Trad 20m
10 * Quasimodo's Dream

Steep fun on big holds all the way. Start up 'Hunchback' to tiny stance. Traverse up right on good jugs, then, against your better judgement, straight up overhanging grey wall past FH to sling lower-off point.

FA: Glen Tempest, 1994

23Trad 20m
11 ** Three Legged Dog

Steep pumpy gym style climbing. Adds a hard direct start to Quasimodo's Dream on the Prow. Starts 3m right of 'Hunchback' at protruding wide tufa fin. Up this with difficulty (FH) to large jug (small wire on left). A thin move leads to killer jugs up outstanding orange wall (2 FH�s) to join Quasimodo�s Dream at horizontal break 2/3rd of the way up the wall. Finish direct up juggy prow rather than bailing off to the left. Single FH and sling rap anchor. Bring a small range of cams and wires or just run it out between the bolts!

FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2005

23Trad 20m
12 ** HB New Scoop Project 26Trad 17m
13 ** The Honeymoon is Over

Splitter steep finger crack on the right side of 'The Prow'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson

27Trad 17m
14 * Framed

Start up 'The Honeymoon is Over' then clip a bolt way out R. Swing R to the nose and up the wall past a PR.

FA: Dave Jones, Richard Heap

27Trad 17m
15 Event Horizon

10m left of 'Tree Hugger' is another steep orange wall. On the left edge is a steep seam crack with a FH and piton. Up.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2004

25Trad 10m
16 * Poison Bait Talon Link-Up

Up to Poison Bait's third bolt, then traverse left on slopers to finish up 'Talon'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

26Sport 12m
17 * Notre Dame

The very L side of the wall has distinctly easier ground. This route takes the line of least resistance across L and above the void to a steep finish on good holds.

FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1994

12Trad 25m
18 ** Malcolm's Project

Mega line right through the guts of the wall with a bold right leading finish. The reachy start still stumps Malcolm. He can do the rest at 26...

Trad 18m
19 Tree Hugger

Climb to second bolt of 'Angry Arborist'. Rather than dynoing upwards, traverse left delicately to exposed swing onto arete. Up jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Rohan Archibald, 2003

16Trad 20m
20 Tree Hugger Direct

Overhung corner 10m left of 'Angry Arborist'. Thin laybacking past BR to short wide juggy crack. As for original route.

FA: Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson, 2003

21Trad 16m
21 Ringing in My Ears

Quite nice. As for 'Notre Dame' but straight up and through the steepness at the major break.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1994

10Trad 20m
22 * Double Short Black

Steep climbing on good holds. Twin ropes recommended.

Start: Located on buttress (Latte Land) about 60m south of 'Chemical Addiction'. Located at west end of buttress and right of chasm.

FA: Joe Goding, Amanda Cole, 2003

22Mixed 10m, 3
23 Chemical Addiction

Located on southern side of small boulder [The 'Small' Block] which is at eastern end of 'The Prow'. Stickclip FH at 4m. Jump for good holds in middle of the small block (or delicately up just R). Up and R of FH, past R side of rooflet. Tending L past this with good wires to top. Natural belay. Walk off.

19Mixed 8m, 1

1.3.10. Sherpa Rocks 6 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.264005, -37.237918

Description:© (nmonteith)

A pleasant Arapilsian gully spot for some shady cranking on a hot day. 'Sherpa Rocks' are found just to the south of the main 'Scoop Rocks' outcrops.


A bolted abseil point is located above 'Invalid Stout'. To get off routes E of 'Woodys' either downclimb juggy wall L of 'Woodys' or rap from suitable rock bollard.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Where the vague track to 'Scoop Rocks' hits the first rock outcrops just over the creek go up the R (S) side of the 'Scoop' Rock ridgeline, passing the odd cairn, to the first major outcrop that stands apart from the ridgeline, about opposite the Crater. It has two narrow gullies (it may be easier to simply walk straight up the hill, from the clearing after crossing the creek).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Corner

Orange Arapilesian corner about 5m R of 'Invalid Stout'. Ledge at 8m then overhung jug hauling up small roof crack. Has not been led yet - needs bolt.

FA: FTRA Neil Monteith, 2004

20 RTrad 12m
2 Invalid Stout

Subtle arête on R side of entrance to first gully. Easy crack for 5m to high BR. Step R and layback tenuous crack to break (crux). Through difficult bulge and up. U bolt lower off.

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2003

20Mixed 15m, 1
3 ** Revenue Road

Some reachy moves on lovely compact rock. As for 'Invalid Stout' to first BR, then step L and up rounded slopers past another three BRs. There’s also medium to large cam placements. Belay from large rock bollards on summit.

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2003

21Mixed 17m, 4
4 * Heaven is a Truck

More reachy climbing on good rock in next small gully 10m E of 'Invalid Stout'. Climb steep fingery wall (3 RBs) to face and corner (small/med cams and wires).

FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2003

22Mixed 20m, 3
5 Woodys

Orange corner on opposite side of gully to 'Revenue Road'.

17Trad 13m
6 * Best of Hillwood

Superb rock. Start 5m right of 'Woodys'. 'Flake' crack leads to horizontal break. Seemingly blank and baffling wall (BR) to rounded juggy finish (BR).

23Mixed 13m, 2

1.3.11. Valley Crag 3 routes in Crag

All Trad
Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 124796

Park at the bend in the road about 200 metres south of Red Rock Creek and walk east across the paddocks. Head up the north branch of the creek which is reached about a kilometre from the road. The cliff is due north of 'Canyon Crag'.

It may be quicker to walk over the saddle from Pellant Pinnacles and then up the creek.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Oxtail Soup

Up flake to corner, hand traverse left, then up prow.

Start: About 100 metres from the right-hand end of the cliff is an attractive grey wall with a wide corner high above a flake.

FA: James McIntosh, Tony Wilson, 1991

17Trad 22m
2 * Tapestry

Up right side of blunt arete (not using flake crack) to ledge then straight up.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Oxtail Soup"

FA: James McIntosh, Tony Wilson, 1991

16Trad 18m
3 Disgraceful Propensities

The orange line right of "Tapestry"

FA: James McIntosh, Tony Wilson, 1991

14Trad 15m

1.3.12. Canyon Crag 7 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A great little cliff for the grade 17 climber. A very compact orange and grey wall on the south bank of the north-east branch of Red Rock Creek.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 127791

Park at the bend in the road about 200 metres south of Red Rock Creek and walk east across the paddocks. Head up the north-east branch of the creek which goes off just before the large orange cliff on the right is reached (Crag X).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** No Holds Barred

Lovely climbing. The left-hand line on the grey part of the cliff.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, 1989

17Trad 20m
2 Rolls Royce

The line between "No Holds Barred" and "Take Your Pick", traversing in from "Take Your Pick".

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1991

17Trad 20m
3 Take Your Pick

Take crack 2 metres right of "No Holds Barred". Where the crack fades, step right and up steeply.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, 1989

17Trad 18m
4 * Sardine Seam

Squeezed in.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1991

17Trad 18m
5 Into The Fire

The obvious crack-line at the left (east) end of the canyon. 'Steep' to finish.

FA: Robert Marshall, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 1989

17Trad 15m
6 ** Superdyke

Superb but tiring face climb.

FA: Phillip McMillan, James McIntosh, 1997

20Trad 25m
7 I'd Rather Be Skiiing

Only a few good moves, but these are very good.

Start: Start about 30 metres left of "No Holds Barred"

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1997

16Trad 30m

1.3.13. The Grandstand 3 routes in Crag

Trad and Aid
Description:© (kieranl)

A yellow west-facing cliff at the head of Red Rock Creek.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 128793

Park at the bend in the road about 200 metres south of Red Rock Creek and walk east across the paddocks. Head up the north-east branch of the creek which goes off just before the large orange cliff on the right is reached (Crag X). Continue up rock slabs to the crag. Treacherous in the wet and tedious at any time.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * First Past The Post

The first main line on the left.

  1. 30m (19) A rising traverse left leads into a bottomless corner. Up the corner and continuation crack system to a belay below the steep headwall.

  2. 15m (19) Spectacularly up the wall, keeping just left of the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, 1989

19Trad 45m 2
2 ** Sporting Chance

The best line on the cliff, starting just right of "First Past The Post"

  1. 20m (23) Up the corner line, over the awkward bulge and step left to belay

  2. 25m (23 M0) Veer right up the continuing line to the left-hand of two hanging corners. Up the corner with 1 wire for aid.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1989

23 M1Aid 45m 2
3 ** Even Money

Up the slab, moving left into right-facing corner. Up corner, exiting left onto another slab which leads to a diagonal flake. Right along the flake to the base of two parallel cracks which are followed to a large ledge. Up the headwall, slightly rightwards, on pockets.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Sporting Chance"

FA: Parrish Robbins, Mike Fox, 1990

24Trad 40m

1.3.14. The Lost Pavilion 9 routes in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Nomad

FA: Josef Goding, 2006

22Trad 25m
2 * Taureg

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2006

22Trad 25m
3 The Extrusion Line

FA: Cameron McKenzie, Anita Gowers, 2006

17Trad 30m
4 Mind The Gap

FA: Cameron McKenzie, Anita Gowers, 2006

13Trad 35m
5 * Captain Hook

FA: Cameron McKenzie, Anita Gowers, 2007

21Trad 30m
6 * Trapped in a corner

FA: Cameron McKenzie, Anita Gowers, 2006

19Trad 45m
7 Beginner's bad luck

FA: Josef Goding, Erik Isrealsson, 2006

17Trad 20m
8 The Trevor Hendy memorial weetbix route

FA: Cameron McKenzie, Anita Gowers, 2006

13Trad 20m
9 I Know Nothing

FA: Peter Hyslop, Megan Holbeck, 2006

12Trad 15m

1.4. Buandik Area 261 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.311389, -37.250568

1.4.1. Little Hands Cave 6 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 142.275374, -37.271329

Unique Features And Strengths:

Bolts and steep action packed routes

Access Issues:

To get to the Cave park at Manja Shelter on the Harrop Track, Walk around 1km then scurry up track to very steep and Hidden wall. Fingers Becomes Thumbs is on seperate cliff, behind LHC.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Josh's Project Sport
2 * Substance D

Bouldery number, 4th bolted route from right

29Sport 10m
3 ** Raise The Bar

Follow the amazing Prow. 3rd bolted line from right.

29Sport 10m
4 *** Strontium Dogs

Amazing line. 2nd from right

31Sport 15m
5 ** Steel on Steel

Obvious RH Line

28Sport 12m, 6
6 * Fingers Become Thumbs

Located near man habnds cave, opposite side of little hands. Destined to be an obscure classic.

27Sport 20m, 7

1.4.2. The Buandik Boulder 4 routes in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quangos 17Trad 15m
2 Arrow Head 15Trad 15m
3 Target Area 16Trad 15m
4 Quilled End 16Trad 17m

1.4.3. Mother Buttress 9 routes in Crag

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.275097, -37.245239

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mad Dash

RBs up right side of wall. Slabby start, pumpy end finishing up right to anchors. 8 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

20Sport 20m, 8
2 Split Decision

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2005

19Sport 25m
3 Blunted Enthusiasm

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & KP, 2005

20Sport 25m
4 Early Riser

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2005

19Trad 25m
5 I Need My Mother 22Trad 12m
6 Puppy Love 6Trad 12m
7 Spanking 8Trad 10m
8 High In The Saddle 19Trad 12m
9 Top Gun 6Trad 10m

1.4.4. The Studio 8 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.272544, -37.243736

Description:© (nmonteith)

A nice orange wall about 200 metres south-west of 'The Gallery'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Sir Nicholas Hasluck Memorial Slab Climb 16Trad 25m
2 Platinium Development 26Trad 30m
3 ** Seven Diamond Experience

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

25Trad 30m
4 Oh, Hum 24Trad 30m
5 Aladdin's Cave 12Trad 40m
6 Manufacturing Consent 13Trad 30m
7 Jeff 20Trad 26m
8 Joan 18Trad 26m

1.4.5. Buffoon Block 1 route in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boxed Set 21Trad 15m

1.4.6. Pinnacle Of Achievement 4 routes in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ski School Instructor 17Trad 16m
2 Fantasy Ridge 21Trad 18m
3 The Dude 14Trad 25m
4 Shop Assestant From Hell 18Trad 25m

1.4.7. The Lego Blocks 7 routes in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 La Vie En Rose 19Trad 15m
2 Je Ne Regrette Rien 21Trad 20m
3 Don't Make My Fat Wobble 19Trad 10m
4 Silver Service Slab 8Trad 8m
5 Repo Boofhead 12Trad 8m
6 Mon Dieu 14Trad 10m
7 Padam Padam 10Trad 12m

1.4.8. The Sheltered Workshop 1 route in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Secret Squirrels 19Trad 12m

1.4.9. The Gallery 30 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 142.274303, -37.243772

Description:© (jgoding)

Classy sports climbing on super steep, fantastic quality sandstone. As they say "the biggest jugs you're ever likely to fall off".

On the other hand, it has to be said that it is more popular/famous than it deserves to be, no doubt because it was one of the first sport crags in the whole state. So bear in mind that the 'Grampians' has a lot of other relatively unknown crags of comparable quality.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bang, Bang You're Dead!

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

24Sport 13m, 4
2 Going Blank Again

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

22Sport 17m, 6
3 The Educator

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne and Doug Williams

16Sport 12m, 3
4 Hueco Dreaming

One move wonder and a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

25Sport 9m
5 * Texas Nightmare

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

25Sport 12m
6 * Mr Meat

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

25Sport 24m
7 Mr Meat - Weaveworld 25Sport 20m
8 ** Mr Meat - Weaveworld - Chain Of Fools 26Sport 16m
9 *** Weaveworld

Classic pumping leads into a tricky traverse L to an exposed stance on the arete. Finish up on huge buckets.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Edwin Young, 1991

23Sport 25m
10 ** Chain of Fools

Navigate your way through the maze of chalk on some of the biggest holds you're ever likely to find at this grade. Easier than 'Weaveworld' and a popular "warmup".

FA: Richard Smith, Glenn Tempest, 1992

23Sport 15m
11 ** Two Tribes

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

24Sport 15m
12 * Chasin the Tribe

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

26Sport 15m
13 *** Chasin' the Shadow

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

27Sport 15m
14 Chasin The Monkey

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2000

15 *** Shadow Death

FA: Nick Sutter

28Sport 17m
16 ** Le Petit Mort

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave.

FA: Helmut Nesadba, 1991

29Sport 20m
17 ** Nicotine

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

FA: Garth Miller, 1996

32Sport 23m
18 Smokin Monkey

Starts as koala, into monkey direct. Finishes as nicotine headwall. Power Endurance.

19 *** Monkey Puzzle

The line of the crag. Long steep pumper straight through the guts of the wall. To descend either; back-clean, lower off 'Nicotine' bolts (careful traversing over), or top out and untie (and leave your draws there for the next punter).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

28Sport 22m
20 Monkey Puzzle Direct

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1998

29Sport 20m
21 Koala - Monkey Puzzle Direct

Break off left after 3rd bolt of Koala into MPD.

27Sport 15m
22 Bananas In Ya Pie

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

FA: Joshua Grose, 2007

30Sport 20m
23 * Like a Koala in His Eucalyptus

Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

29Sport 20m
24 ** Gorilla Tactics

Really steep, but a few sneaky rests take the sting out a bit (if you find them).

Make sure your belayer is paying attention when you are clipping. It's not a serious route or a death route, but it could be messy.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

26 RSport 15m
25 * Pigs In a Blanket

Next line right of GT. Crux at the lip, so watch your back (as for previous route).

FA: Corinne Gwyther, 1998

26Sport 15m
26 ** Super Delux

Mega R to L traverse. Start in the back of the cave R of Pigs. Up through Pigs, cross GT at the 3rd bolt, pull the lip of Koala, move past MP and 'Nicotine', then finish as for LPM.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1998

28Sport 25m
27 * Evil D

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

FA: Simon Carter

29Sport 25m
28 Azusi

Start from the left end of the cave. 3m up, cross right then straight up past RBs.

FA: Andrea Buchaver (Austria), 1992

21Sport 6
29 ** Lightning Dyke

Tough boulderery start of the cairn. Follow the dyke feature to anchor. Thin, technical and sustained.

FFA: chris abernethy

FA: 18th Jan

27Sport 15m, 4
30 ** The Perfect Crime

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

22Sport 15m, 6

1.4.10. Quartz Block 9 routes in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Uknown Easy Sport Route 16Trad 14m
2 Dark Caravan 13Trad 30m
3 Cold Shower 21Trad 25m
4 Killdozer Diagonal 19Trad 35m
5 Searching For PB 18Trad 35m
6 While Mick Snores 21Trad 37m
7 Lightning Crack 22Trad 25m
8 *** Portrait Of An Urban Badger 22Trad 19m
9 Cave Clan 19Trad 19m

1.4.11. Rain Wall 17 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.275040, -37.244067

Description:© (jgoding)

Just around the corner from the womb-like Gallery ... but a whole different experience. Very few bolts here, mainly serious trad on a big wall.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Before you enter the narrow gully just before you get to the Gallery hang a right and scramble down a loose gully, then follow a rough track left around the base of the cliff until you see the large clean face (about 70m high).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 X Marks The Spot

The first line on the left end of 'Rain Wall', a right-leading diagonal crack, with start marked with a white square (already there at the time of the first recorded ascent)

FA: Jim Van Gelder, James Strohfeld, Neil Barr, 1983

15Trad 30m
2 Sally's Route

Unusual climbing up the centre of the wall left of "Blackberry Nip".

FA: Greg and Sally Child, 1992

16Trad 40m
3 Blackberry Nip

There are three diagonal lines right of "X Marks The Spot". Start below a small, curved roof. The line, stepping left at the top.

FA: Stephen Lake, Leigh Howes, 1983

10Trad 40m
4 Flash Flood

Take double ropes.

Start: Start as for "Blackberry Nip".

FA: Edwin Young, 1992

21Mixed 33m, 3
5 ** Rain on the Brain
  1. 25m (22) Upface directly below distinctive skull formation (2 BR) then bbig flake to semi-hanging belay from bolts in skull.

  2. 25m (22) Up to BR. Traverse lip, BR, to left-leading diagonal crack. Up.

FA: Edwin Young, Michael Hampton (alt), 1992

22Mixed 50m 2, 2
6 The Water Line 24 M1Aid 80m 2
7 Scorched Earth 24Trad 60m
8 She Moves In Mysterious Ways 19Trad 17m
9 The Web 17Trad 17m
10 Plain English 10Trad 18m
11 I'd Rather Be A Biscuit 24Trad 18m
12 Drain Pipe 13Trad 22m
13 Broken English 13Trad 10m
14 Gutter Talk 13Trad 10m
15 Domestic Violence 17Trad 18m
16 Dark Side Of The Wall

May be substantially a repeat of "Sally's Route"

Start: start left of "Blackberry Nip" at the right-hand of 2 shallow cornere which face each other.

FA: Peter Campbell, Matt Darby, Michael Hampton, Edwin Young, 2000

14Trad 40m
17 Rain Dance

Off block, up, 3 bolts, fixed wire to anchors above horizontal break. Third bolt used for aid. Rap off.

Start: Start 5 metres right of black streak.

FA: Ed Darling, Gareth Llewellyn, Simon, Gordon, 1997

24 M0Mixed 3

1.4.12. Cultivation Crag 4 routes in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pigs 19Trad 18m
2 Bucketing Compost 17Trad 18m
3 Burn The Furniture 20Trad 18m
4 Transcendental Irrigation 20Trad 19m

1.4.13. Hut Creek Track 11 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad Red Cave 3 routes in Crag
All Trad Fawlty Towers 1 route in Crag
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Roofy but limited crag.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 131742

Walk up Hut Creek to first rocky peak on right. May be easier these days to access via the cave of Hands access track. Nearby Crag 3 routes in Crag
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A steep little crag on the south side of Hutt Creek about 1 km east of the Cave of Hands.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach along Hutt Creek Track for about a kilometre after the gate until below the crag which is up on the right. Walk straight up the hillside for 15 or 20 minutes.

GR 137735 "Victoria Range" 1:25000 sheet. Mordor 4 routes in Crag
Trad and Sport
Description:© (jgoding)


Approach:© (jgoding)

roughly 3km north of the Fortress and about 2km West of Mt Thackeray. Yep - it's in the middle of no-where! Start your walk on the Hutt Creek Track, after half an hour take a right turn (uphill- look for the yellow tape) after crossing two small dry creek beds within about 2-300m of eachother (the turnoff is not far past the 2nd creek bed). Follow this (fairly well marked) track for another hour and a bit to find a little slice of remote heaven. You might find yourself humming "these boots are made for walking" as you go...

1.4.14. Millennium Caves 33 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.294784, -37.242594

Description:© (willmonks)

A great find - the then bumblies Julian and Simon managed to bolt and, eventually, send some classic steep sport routes.

Be aware that most routes at this crag rely on one bolt keeping you off the deck, even when you're well up the pitch. If a bolt breaks or pulls, or a biner unclips, you're toast. Bad belaying pretty much guarantees groundfall potential as well - this has already resulted in a number of big plummets, near groundfalls, and actual groundfalls even from quite high on routes (thankfully with surprisingly minimal injuries, so far).

The climbs are great - but it's your own responsibility to decide whether or not to climb them.

Mobile coverage is poor to non-existent from the car-park to and at the caves. However there is coverage from the top terrace at Pygmy Terraces near the car-park so there may also be coverage if you scramble to the top of Millenium.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Note the road from Buandik campground is closed in the cold wet months (from about Jun/Jul) to protect the road itself, and is scheduled to open at 'October' 31 each year. The Parks Vic website has a link to the 'Grampians' Road Report, which gives current road conditions and road closures. If the gate is closed keen climbers can still get there simply by walking up the road from Buandik (about 1 hr total). If the gate is open, drive up Goat Track from Buandik for about 1.5km. This crag pretty much completely occupies the top of the hill to the right (south) as Goat Track reaches it's high point. 2WD cars can be coaxed up the hill...but a bit of clearance and/or 4WD is certainly desirable to navigate the large water bars and steep loose rocky sections (softroaders will be fine). When the road reaches a saddle at the top of the hill and starts to drop for the first time, there is a parking bay on the left (north) side of the road. The walk-in starts directly opposite, you can't really see the crag so just follow the well-formed track. The view of the crag in the first topo below is from the intersection of Goat Track and 'Victoria Range' Road - if you end up here you've gone too far, go back towards Buandik until you reach the saddle.

Goat Track is equally passable to/from the east (i.e. for suitable cars), and joins up with Syphon Rd at the eastern foot of the range. This way is probably a bit quicker if you're driving to/from Halls Gap but involves a bit more rough driving. Great views though.

The walking track is well trod and easy to follow, and initially heads away from the road but then starts veering left and contours the hillside, until you reach the 'Five Spice' cave after about 10 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Five Spice

Looks like a fun bit of steep thugging.

Start: This is the route on its own in the cave you get to before the main area.

FA: Stuart Wyithe

26Trad 10m
2 Unknown Project

A red fixed hanger and a glue-reinforced flake can be found on this line.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Five Spice'

FA: Equipped by Sharik Walker?, 2000

Sport 12m
3 * Living With Sister

Careful on the runout finish.

Start: Start in the left of the main cave, a few metres left of Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

24 RSport 10m, 5
4 ** Nomads, Saints and Indians

Roof climbers rave about this one. 'Steep' jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution.

Start: Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

29 RSport 18m, 7
5 ** Nomads Saints and Indians Halfway

The best "moderate" route here. Nomads to the 5th bolt, watch out for the run out.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

24 RSport 14m, 5
6 * Red Vinyl

Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

29 RTrad 20m
7 ** Fire in da Belly

A whole new route without a single extra bolt!

Start: Start as for 'Red Vinyl'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

32 RTrad 25m
8 * Dual Fuel

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

32 RTrad 20m
9 *** Breathing Gasoline

A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

30 RTrad 28m
10 ** Sniffing Petrol

Pumpy fun for the kids who aren't up to 'Breathing Gasoline'. A good find as this cave is under-endowed in the 25-27 bracket.

Start: Start as for 'Breathing Gasoline'.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2010

25Sport 15m, 5
11 ** Tunnel to Caracas

Climbs the inside of the tunnel feature just R of Nomads. It looks a bit obscure but is very good.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

28Sport 15m, 5
12 ** Tunnel Vision

Extension of TTC.

FA: Kent Paterson, early, 2009

29 RSport 25m, 8
13 * Fat and Sassy

One of three truly gobsmacking lines out to the very top of this humungous cave, but it takes some stuffing around to get started.

Start: Starts from the ledge above 'Bwana' (you can avoid actually climbing 'Bwana' by simply stick clipping it\'s anchor!).

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

27 RSport 15m, 3
14 * Bwana

Boulderers will love this.

Start: Start about 8m R of Nomads.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

28Sport 9m, 2
15 * What's an Aging Gigolo to Do

The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent.

Start: Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of 'Bwana'.

FA: Garth Miller, 2000

32Sport 25m
16 * Eat More Lard

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

31Sport 23m
17 * The Floating Cloud

Great rock and some nice moves, but it's a shame about the rest ledges ruining the middle section.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall at a well chalked low hanging prow.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

23Sport 15m, 5
18 Project

The rounded arete just R of Floating Cloud

Sport 9m
19 * Verdensrom

This beautifully coloured wall is unfortunately quite cruxy...but people still seem to like it.

Start: Start 5m R of Floating Cloud.

FA: some Czech dude, 2000

23Trad 15m
20 Reckless Mind

Now retroed with 3 bolts and a rap anchor. It's best not to lower off the anchor because it's over the top and will probably trash your rope. Abseil or back jump.

Start: Start about 50m L of where you scramble up from the Main Cave.

FA: Julian Saunders (solo) 1990s, 2000

22Mixed 15m, 3
21 Unknown

Short but action-packed crimpiness.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Reckless Mind'.

24Sport 7m, 3
22 Shattering Reflections Of Climbing Ability

Takes SFON past 3 bolts. Then direct up trad weakness.

FA: Matt 'Master of the mid grade' Adams

25Mixed 15m, 3
23 ** Shattering Reflections On Narcissism

Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams.

Start: Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1997

29 RSport 25m
24 ** Velocity of Time

Another great looking roof. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start a few metres L of 'Labyrinths'.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

26 RSport 15m
25 ** Labyrinths

The prime line through this gorgeous red-roofed cave. Limestone like roof pockets

Start: Start on the right side in the base of the cave.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

26 RSport 15m
26 Kidney Stoned

Maybe a bit contrived but still damn good fun. You'd be forgiven for thinking the route was named after the striking unusual kidney shaped plate of rock it follows. But by some bizarre and unfortunate coincidence, Bob happened to pass some actual kidney stones while sending it! Stretched urethra anyone? Ouccchhh!

Start: Start R of the cave.

FA: Bob Novellino, 1995

20 RSport 18m
27 * A Girl ln Every Port 30Sport
28 Chapped Lips

Nice. Follow the same line as 'Blabber Mouth' until it steepens then move diagonally left to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

19Trad 14m
29 Blabber Mouth

take the obvious central line to where it steepens, with a hard move near the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

19Trad 12m
30 Time Out

Up the face 1 metre left of 'Time In Memorial' to the horizonatl traverse left to the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

14Trad 10m
31 To The Point

Start as for 'Blabber Mouth' but move across the opening of the cave. Pull through overlap to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

21Trad 14m
32 Time In Memorial

Starts in the middle of the wall off a flake. Straight up then veer left.

FA: Chris Lawrence, Geoff Butcher, 1991

12Trad 9m
33 Oxford Comma

This gets a serious rating because it only has a single biner lower off. Make up your own mind whether to trust it.

Start: Start at the cute little orange face tucked away on a boulder just right of the walking track, approx 40m before you hit the 'Five Spice' cave.

FA: Kent Paterson, american Elliot, early, 2009

20 RSport 10m, 3

1.4.15. Goat Track 15 routes in Crag

All Trad Pygmy Terrace 14 routes in Crag
Description:© (kieranl)

A series of compact orange walls with terraces in between. This is the right-hand side of the same escarpment as "Millenium Caves". This area is closer to the road than "Millenium" but it is nothing like as good.

Mobile phones get Telstra coverage from the top terrace, deteriorating as you get closer to ground level.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive up Goat Track from Buandik and park at the Cave of Fishes car-park (as for "Millenium Caves"). The top terrace, with a red wall and cave, is visible above the tree tops to the right as you face the start of the "Millenium" track. The terraces rise from right-to-left so, from the start of the "Millenium Caves" track, aim to the right of the top terrace. Goat Wall 1 route in Crag
Description:© (kieranl)

A limited crag with easy access.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Located on the south side of Goat Track, 800 metres east of Cultivation Creek shelter. Crag is 25 metres from road.

GR 171780 (Victoria Gap 1:25000)

1.4.16. Victoria Range Road 9 routes in Crag

All Trad Family Wall 5 routes in Crag
Description:© (kieranl)

Dark, reddish-brown slab with a crack up the middle that can be seen up through the trees past two large boulders. (3 routes).

There is also a big orange cave 400 metres south of 'Family Wall', obvious from road, with 1 climb.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive south along the 'Victoria Range' Road from Goat Track for 2 kilometres.

Approx GR 160758 (Victoria Range 1:25000) Norman Neve Momorial Wall 4 routes in Crag
Description:© (kieranl)

A distinct 20 metre high pinnacle close to the road. 3 climbs.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive 3 km south on the 'Victoria Range' Road from the Goat Track junction. 1.8 km further south are two boulders on the west side of road with 1 other climb.

1.4.17. Billywing Buttress 25 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.269080, -37.244507

Description:© (kieranl)

The main south-west outcrop at Buandik. Billywing Bluff is the distinctive overhanging red wall at the west end. The first climbs are on the north side, just downhill from the Lego Blocks.

The climbs are described in an ant-clockwise direction.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Praying Mantis 12Trad 40m
2 Keeyuga

At the top of Green 'Gully' is a corner with a bouldery start.

FA: Peter Campbell, Rhyl Shaw, Michael Hampton, 1993

14Unknown 15m
3 Peek A Boo

Climb the laid-back arete right of gully to finish through overlap.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove, 1993

10Trad 18m
4 Wayne's World

Technical seam 3 metres right of "Walking Under Strictest Secrecy" to easy finish.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1993

25Trad 18m
5 ** Squat Or Rot

Steep climbing on good holds. The obvious line a few metres right of "Domino"

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1994

22Trad 25m
6 Shitty Plastic In Cars

Tricky start to the easiest of the three lines.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

17Trad 20m
7 ** Slapdance

Superb flake-line just right of "Cornered" (PR and FH) to ledge. Finish up overhanging corner.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Malcolm Matheson, 1993

23Mixed 25m, 1
8 Finger Buckets

Climb the centre of the wall. The fingery start eases to pleasant bucket hauling.

Start: Just inside the wider, central chasm is a steep wall on the left.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Campbell, 1993

16Trad 18m
9 The Big Mammu

Climb the front of the obvious rib between two chasms.

Start: There is a slender gum growing in front of the cliff.

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton (alt) and Rhyl Shaw, 1993

12Trad 45m
10 * Cornered

Intricate bridging in sustained diagonal corner to a steep exit.

Start: Start on the terrace, at left side of wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Glenn Tempest, 1993

24Trad 20m
11 Lager

Climb the greyish rib on the right side of the most compact slab area. Continue easily up cracks and jugs.

FA: Michael Hampton (solo), 1993

10Trad 70m
12 Walking Under Strictest Secrecy

Climb the orange wall to weakness in the dark rock above. Belay at ledge a few metres higher. Downclimb back of buttress into gully.

Start: Start a few metres right of the chossy black off-width.

FA: Peter Campbell, Stuart Imer, Michael Hampton, 1993

19Trad 18m
13 Acting The Goat

Start: Scramble up into the cave at base of bluff. Start from ramp at left end.

  1. 20m (15) Climb the wall to gap at top left of cave. Pull on jugs to gain wall above. Continue to belay level with upper terrace.

  2. 20m (-) Go up right and up the easy arete.

FA: Pitch 1: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher. Pitch 2 : Edwin Young, Kate Hilton (same day), 1994

15Trad 40m 2
14 Mundarnin

Overhang then crack and wall on east end of "Wall Of Deceit", finishing right under the overhang.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Campbell, 1993

18Trad 18m
15 Shut The Fuck Up!

A bucket haul with a fun conclusion.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

18Unknown 20m
16 Please Shut Up

Start up "Shut The Fuck Up!" but continue up the steep arete on fantastic holds.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

19Trad 18m
17 Stick Lizard

Takes the centre of the face on block overlooking head of Green 'Gully'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

16Unknown 12m
18 Stout

As it was, soloed potential protection is unknown.

Start: Start at the left side of the slab, 5 metres right of the chasm.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith (both solo), 1993

17Trad 70m
19 Strawman

The crack above the start to the terrace access ramp

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton, 1993

17Trad 18m
20 Goanna

The crack in the nose right of "Honey Pot".

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton, 1983

15Trad 15m
21 * Domino

Thin line past grass clumps and on to a stance. Left up ramp to pull on to a hanging slab. Step awkwardly right and up to top.

Start: Start at the thin line just right of the dished overhang.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Greg Caire, 1994

23Trad 35m
22 * Honey Pot

Another Buandik gem.

Start: Start at the head of the next chasm.

FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw.(FTRA Peter Campbell), 1993

20Trad 12m
23 Big Nose N Barge Arse Go Bouldering

Excellent climbing up the nose at the gully intersection.

Start: Scramble up to the descent gully.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

20Trad 18m
24 Bitter

The groove right of "Stout" then continue all the way.

FA: Richard Smith (solo), 1993

18Trad 70m
25 Half Burnt Match

Start: Start at the lovely clean crack 1m right of the black line forming

the black identifying chimney.

FA: Doig, Dionne Norgate, Erik ?

FA: Glen Buchanan, Louise, 2001

14Trad 50m

1.4.18. The Tower 30 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.270849, -37.240316

Description:© (nmonteith)

The perfect summer crag. Super shady steep orange wall of immaculate rock quality which get strong breezes. Like a poor mans 'Taipan Wall' it contains slopers, rounded pockets and a funny mix of bolts and trad. The nearby bouldering is also very good.

"How can a wall like this have lain dormant for so long?" That was the question on Kent's mind when he stumbled upon this area on one of his many exploratory trips with Neil whilst developing nearby 'Scoop Rocks'. Easily visible from the highway and the Gallery it only contained one climb before the development of 2003. 'The Tower' is a giant pillar of rock with a sheer orange wall on its south face. From all sides it requires roped climbing to summit and this has obviously repelled people from attempting first ascents. With the addition of rap anchors the climbs are now much easier to deal with. The rock is of the finest quality – comparable to the 'Bluffs' at 'Arapiles'. The routes are wandery affairs up proud lines and contain some natural gear. As a training ground for 'Taipan Wall' this place is hard to beat. This is not a sport crag. In the last few years there has been extensive bouldering development in the forest surrounding this wall. This is one of the best bouldering areas in the 'Victoria' Ranges and there is still tonnes of potential for new problems. There is no official guide to this area so ask around for more info. Julian Saunders and Simon Weill seem to know a lot about it.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Access: 4 hrs drive from 'Melbourne', 5 mins drive from Buandik campground, 30 minute walk. From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive N along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn R at a fork in the track. Continue 700m from the fork then turn left off the track to a side track / parking area.

After the fires of 2013, the regrowth has made the track-in very hard to follow. But, you can now see the tower from the carpark (for how long?), so at least you've got an idea of where you're heading. From the carpark, a cleared trail leads east directly towards the tower. The 'track' gets very difficult to follow where you step over the small stream, but easy enough to pick up on the other side, provided you stay on the LHS of the gully. When you reach the rock buttresses, stay on the LHS, and the track becomes easier to follow. At the big cairn at the head of the gully, trend up the L side (still heading generally East). The track here is well cairned through to the base of the crag which is slightly to the left and faces South.

The south facing main wall is shaded all day long. In winter it is a cold miserable place which rarely dries even several days after rain. In summer it is perfect shady and cool. Down jackets get worn even on 30'C days! A small cave with some good roof boulder problems is a good shelter and is located below Iron Arms. GPS Location (-37.2405, 142.2711)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Looper

Crazy arete on block.

FA: kp, hammert time, 2012

26Sport 15m, 5
2 *** Iron Arms Pitch 1

Taipan style! Starts 5m left of Popeyed at scoopy overhung wall. Technical climbing up scoop past three FHs leads to jugs and cave rest. Blast up reachy wall above past last FH and head left to chain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2003

24Sport 20m, 6
3 * Iron Arms Pitch 2

Steps right from chain and follows thin crack heading slightly right to finish up juggy headwall on spaced gear. Rap off sling.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

20Sport 20m
4 * Prince Of Persia

Once referred to as a link up, it has been bolted & renamed as its a really good warm up. Start at orange pocketed rock and climb a left veering line. Joins iron arms at 3rd FH.

best warm up for cliff.

FA: kp

FA: Kent Paterson, 2005

21Sport 15m, 5
5 *** Popeye

The original trad line of the crag. Starts in the pocket patch off the ledge on the left side of the wall.

22Trad 35m
6 *** Thundercats

Start at Popeyed. Stickclip first bolt then make a very cool & unlikely rightwards traverse across face. Follow line of steel up lovely dark orange rock to anchor.

FA: Equipped Neil Monteith '07, 2000

FA: Climbed inby KP., 2010

26Sport 25m, 8
7 *** See The Light

FA: kp and the millers falls superdrill !

22Sport 27m, 10
8 *** Terror of the Sea Pitch 1

Immaculate rock and a very tough crux if you're short. Central line about 10m right of Popeyed. Over rooflet (BR) and up juggy wall (BR) to horizontal break and rooflet. Up and left past BR and two FHs to mantle onto ledge. Run it out up white marble pockets past BR to belay anchor in cave.

FA: Neil Monteith

25Sport 20m
9 * Terror of the Sea Pitch 2

From end of pitch 1 cave swing right past two RBs to very exposed prow and natural gear. Step left and up flakes (RB) and surmount rooflet to grey juggy wall. Up this for 6m to rap anchor on ledge. Has been led as one giant pitch. Bring some medium/large cams on the first pitch and some smaller gear for the second pitch.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

22Sport 20m
10 *** Inspector Gadget

A very height dependent grade and a killer line right up the centre of the main wall. Pitch 1 18m 24 - Starts up Terror of the Sea to 2nd BR. Instead of traversing left go straight up past another BR and 2 FH's. Traverse right across slab to last FH and then to single u bolt loweroff or traverse further right to cave and belay on #3.5 camalot, big nut and #2 friend. Pitch 2 20m 22 - Step right from cave and up amazing sustained orange

FA: kp and tim le

24Sport 40m
11 ** Toar Pitch 1

A cool boulder problem off the deck. A very suspicious grade considering Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert and Neil Monteith played on this for several years without success. Suits tall climbers with strong fingers. Equipped by Neil in 2003.

Start: Start 10m right of Terror of the Sea.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

29Sport 20m, 5
12 * Toar Pitch 2

Exposed face climbing. Belay at single giant U-bolt just left of fridge sized bird-poo

stained hanging 'death' block (5m right of Terror of the Sea's first pitch). Climb cautiously onto block. From block climb faint crack directly above onto exposed face and up this past two FH's to juggy finish. An alternative which avoids the hanging block is to start as for 'BMX Bandits' for two bolts then traverse left into the crack

line. Double rap rings for descent.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

23Sport 20m, 2
13 ** Malcolm's Crack (Closed Project) / Malcolm's Finger Crack

FA: Equipped Malcolm Matheson, 2004

29Trad 20m
14 * BMX Bandits

Squeezed in but still top stuff! An awesome faint arête and corner system on super quality rock. An alternate second pitch of 'Inspector Gadget'. Belay in cave as for the end of Inspector Gadget's first pitch. Clip first BR on IG then launch directly up to FH. Battle upwards on slopers, dishes and the occasional ledge past a further two FH's. Finish up small corner (to finish at double RB belay/lower-off.

FA: Kent Paterson Jono Schimdt; kent paterson, jono schimdt, 2005

24Sport 18m, 8
15 * King Features

The big girdle traverse of the left leading horizontal crack feature which splits the main wall. Start at ground level right of Toar

and finish at chains on Iron Arms. Bring lots of cams, slings and body protection.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schmidt, 2005

22Trad 30m
16 *** Super Mario Bros

The famous crazy jump. Prominent hanging arete on right side of 'The Tower' with immaculate rock. This was the first of the 'new' routes to get attention. Stickclip third bolt and leap across to thread hold from the pinnacle opposite. It's about 3m horizontal! The climbing gets easier the higher you get. Double bolt lower off.

FA: Kent Paterson & Neil Monteith, 2003

25Sport 25m
17 *** Super Mario Bros Direct Start

Avoid the big dyno by starting on the cairn down low. Stick clip first bolt then boulder up the unlikely steep corner and through roof to reach big jugs and join into original route. Burly.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2005

27Sport 20m
18 *** Super Gadget

Links the best bits of 'The Tower' into one enduro mega pitch. Start as for Super Mario Direct and connect up to 'Inspector Gadget' Pitch 2 via undercling flake (2 FHs).


28Sport 35m
19 Grease Me Up Laddie

Ungradeable. Squeeze into slot under 'Super Mario Bros' (50m right of Popeyed). Squirm your way through to the other side of 'The Tower' heading for the light. Finish in the bouldering cave.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt (no torches), 2003

Trad 70m
20 Project - graham dick

Starts as RRH then moves left at obvious horizontal

Sport Project
21 ** Red Right Hand

Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of 'Super Mario Bros'. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off.

FA: Gareth Llewillin; Gareth Llewellin

26Trad 16m
22 Project - KP

Starts as per RRH then move right across pocketed face.

Sport 20m, 6
23 * Anatomica

Starts in chasm.

FA: Ingvar

27Sport 15m
24 Wellington Wimpy

One of the better warm-ups at the crag. Starts 20m right of RRH just right of ugly black groove. Step across vast chasm onto wall (FH) and up right side of groove on big jugs past two more FHs and then easy juggy crack finish. Rap anchor

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert

20Sport 18m, 7
25 * Zelda

Bouldery start, sustained crimpy middle. Lotsa bolts! Starts about 2m right of 'Wellington Wimpy'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

24Sport 20m
26 Project (Closed)

Climb grey streak passing 5 FH's to lower offs.

Start: Start as for Choda Boy

Sport 20m
27 * Choda Boy

Bouldery little number.

FA: Ingvar

26Sport 17m, 5
28 Donkey Kong Jnr

Located on north east side of 'The Tower' and just right of giant chossy cave. Novelty sport climbing up blob holds. One very high first BR and two RB's lead to DRB lower off.

FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2004

23Sport 10m, 4
29 Olive Oyl

The easy option when everything else is too hard! Nice jug hauling spoilt by a dirty halfway ledge. Starts about 80m right of Popeyed and in centre of south facing wall on a separate buttress behind 'Wellington Wimpy'. Up left facing flake to vegetated ledge. Swing up overhung wall above trending left to bollard belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

19Trad 20m
30 Goil

Very obscure. 'Small' south facing grey wall on boulder about 100m below the north-west end of the Tower. Start is marked by cairn. Up overhung juggy crack to start then onwards up slopers and faint corner with spaced good gear. Crux move in corner near end. Rap off tree leaning against boulder to descend.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

22Trad 12m

1.4.19. The Crater 3 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.266692, -37.240954

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Rush of Blood to the Head

FA: Malcolm matheson Neil Monteith, 2004

27Trad 10m
2 Ground Force

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2003

20Trad 14m
3 ** Isolation

FA: Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middelton, Kent Paterson, 2003

23Trad 20m

1.4.20. Possum Rocks 9 routes in Field

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.262843, -37.242529


A set of nice boulders about 50m off the fire-road that runs from the Tower carpark towards Buandik. Not much has been done here yet. Go forth and explore! There are also a few crappy trad routes on a north facing wall.


See map!


Discovered by Monty in 2004.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** First things first

Down and right of the Possum Rocks cave, there is a great 4-5m high pocketed boulder. This is the left line.

FA: Phil Neville, 2014

2 I'm a Realist

This is the right line. Scary ending.

FA: Chris Abernethy, 2014

V6Boulder 4m
3 Jelly Legs

Brilliant line of edges. Hidden away under a boulder leaning against the wall about 300m east of possume rocks cave.

Top up through the choss or drop from the jug for a more pleasant outing.

FA: Phil Neville, 2014

4 One More Line 14Trad 20m
5 ** Once More for the Paparazzi

On the east side of a massive mushroom shaped boulder. The problem climbs a rib in a ceiling on dark orange rock. Crux at the end!

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

V2Boulder 6m
6 Ka-prow V1Boulder
7 *** Comfortably Numb

FA: Chris Abernethy, 2006

8 ** Prowler V4Boulder
9 ** Climbing's new Glamour Couple V4Boulder

1.4.21. delete me 0 routes in Boulder

1.4.22. The Catacombs 13 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.268624, -37.238946

Description:© (nmonteith)

An area hidden away about 200m north west of the Tower. This area contains several quality walls facing in all directions. Quite a bit of new route potential exists. There are two incomplete projects in this area as well.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From Billabong Boy (Peasants Wall area) walk up hill (north) behind this route to a worthless gray juggy wall. Walk right along base of this until you can walk up a vegetated gully with an impressive 'Arapiles' style bulging wall on your left. The first route starts here. A single bolt rap anchor exists above Chimney Slot 'Thing'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stakes And Ladders

Weaves around to get up this pleasant wall. Starts 20m left of Wrapped In Pain, just left of scungy looking chimney slot thing. Full rack required + additional slings

FA: Adam Demmert, Cath & Neil, 2007

19Trad 20m
2 * Wrapped in Pain

Located on north facing main wall with a large scooped base.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

24Mixed 20m, 3
3 * Slow Torture

Technical face and seam climbing with spaced small trad gear. Great rock.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Maggot Ridden'.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2004

22Trad 15m
4 * Maggot Ridden

West side of entrance to the 'Slow Torture' 'Gully' which is 50m west of 'Wrapped in Pain'. Worthwhile despite the name.

FA: Neil Monteith Gareth Llewellin Adam Demmert, 2004

18Trad 15m
5 Kent's Abandonded Project 24Trad 20m
6 Fly Grave

The giant flake on the wall between 'Slow Torture' and 'Skullcracker'. Gain the ledge below this flake by starting 8m right at weakness through rooflet (route was attempted direct but was abandoned when no pro and grade 23+ roof moves were encountered). Walk across sledge and then up nice orange wall until holds run out, look behind to see the big flake, stem onto it and jug easily on ledge. Up left to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Cath, 2007

16Trad 25m
7 Skullcracker

Scoops to flake crack then onwards to inverted ceiling. Place vital small cam in slot and swing downwards on horn jug (FH) and over lip to juggy face. Up this face (two FH¹s and sling horns) to clip-and-go lower-off.

Start: Start 20m left of "Slow Torture".

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, Rich Ham & Jono Schimdt, 2005

22Mixed 20m, 3
8 Knights Duel

Very featured crack directly opposite "Skullcracker" with nice jugs to finish.

FA: Anita Sharman & Rich Ham, 2005

12Trad 20m
9 * Fire Breathing Dragon

The first crack 1m from the arete on the left side of the wall as you walk into the 'Slow Torture' gully. Tricky roof move with nice crack to finish.

FA: Anita Sharman, Rich Ham & Neil Monteith, 2005

15Trad 20m
10 Rich's Face 20Trad 15m
11 * Walking The Void / Adam Fingercrack

The middle crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the void, couple of hard moves lead to a rest, then waltz up the crack heading up the left branch where the crack forks and steepens. Pumpy last moves to good jugs. Abseil from sling.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

23Trad 13m
12 Hudson's Training Route / Adam Sandbag

The right crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the gap, then blast up the crack pumping out placing gear. At small roof head up and left. Abseil off fixed sling above Walking the Void.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

20Trad 14m
13 A Sling And A Prayer

Bolted by Kent in the pouring rain using a manky sling as a harness. Hangers were recycled from one of Brookies past glories at Camels Hump. Route was abandoned to the elements for three years and finally climbed by Neil.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

24Mixed 15m, 2

1.4.23. Peasant Wall 1 route in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.267167, -37.240138

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Billabong Boy 24Trad 10m

1.4.24. Sunny Boy Block 1 route in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.268722, -37.240281

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sunny Boy 24Trad 10m

1.4.25. Cave of Man Hands 11 routes in Area

All Boulder

All info from Vertical Life's mini guide: www.verticallifemag.com.au/2012/04/video-cave-of-man-hands/


To get to the Cave park at Manja Shelter on the Harrop Track, which is just south of the turn off to Buandik Campground. Follow the walking track east, after about five minutes it will start to bend south, shortly afterwards there should be a very faint track that continues east. Follow this until you hit the base of a rocky escarpment. Clamber over the escarpment and continue a further five minutes, until just below the main cliff. Now, look down and to the left, you should behold the well-hidden Cave of Man Hands (but it can be a little tricky).


Discovered winter 2011, the Cave of Man Hands offers some superb new bouldering in a beautiful setting, with only a short walk in. Most problems were put up by Simon Weill, with a couple of additions by Dr Julian Saunders and Ross Taylor.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hands Down

Sit start.

2 Hands Up

Sit start.

3 Hand Out

Sit start, scary top out.

4 Julesy’s Problem V9Boulder
5 Hand Solo

Start in the far left of the cave and work your way right before finishing up a combination of Manhandled and Cold Hands.

6 * Underhanded Tactics

Head straight up the obvious flakes to a hard and high finish.

7 ** Manhandled

Hard climbing with a powerful and shouldery crux.

8 ** Cold Hands, Cold Heart

Fantastic moves using some really interesting holds. Tough Start.

9 * Dos Manos

Easy climbing leads to a couple of hard moves on slopey holds.

10 ** The Sound of One Man Hand Clapping

Easy climbing to a dynamic and reachy section through a blank looking roof. Cut loose and prosper.

11 * The Pummelling

Follows the obvious rib to a tricky finish.


1.5. Mt Thackeray 56 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

1.5.1. Party Wall 5 routes in Crag

All Trad
Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive 6.8 km south on 'Victoria' range Road from the Goat Track junction to a hair-pin bend. Descend the gully for about 50 metres the head right (facing out) to find a rock shelf. Follow this shelf to an obvious corner the left side of which is broken by a major chimney.

GR 191733 (Victoria Range 1:25000)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Party Pooper

The chimney left of the corner.

FA: Dave Gairns, Stan Clusik, 1990

14Trad 25m
2 If It's Not On, Then It's Not On

Start up the corner for 6 metres then step left into crack-line and follow this.

FA: Gary Wills, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Megens, 1990

18Trad 20m
3 Party Animal

Take the corner all the way. Pull out left around the summit block.

FA: B. Doolan, Peter Megens, Julie West, 1990

14Trad 20m
4 Looking For A Route

Start on wall right of the corner. Up through the bulge to the weakness, then the left crack to the top.

FA: Gary Wills, Peter Megens, 1990

19Trad 20m
5 Safe Sex

Start as for Looking For a route to the steepening then take the right-leaning crack to the top.

FA: Gary wills, Peter Megens, 1990

17Trad 16m

1.5.2. Taj Mahal 1 route in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Next major cliff south of Magic Mountain. Park at the saddle just south of Party wall. Walk south-east through saddle and continue horizontally (?) for 10 minutes to cairn then down descent gully.

Originally called 'Mirage' Wall but there was already one of those.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 193729

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 EataMorgana

Major corner 10 metres right of descent gully. Previously named Fatmorgana. Maybe a typo somewhere.

FA: Gordon talbett, James McIntosh, 1994

17Trad 40m

1.5.3. The Magic Mountain 11 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

This area looks stunning from the 'Victoria' Valley but it's a bit disappointing. Left of the steep gully that splits the crag is one of Gariwerd's loosest, most dangerous faces. This is unclimbed.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive 6.6 kilometres south along the 'Victoria' range Road. Park 200 metres north of the 'Party Wall' hairpin, at the foot of a stony rise in the track. Head off left (east) and follow the creek down until able to cut back right (south) below outcrops to the main cliff.

GR 193734 (Victoria Range 1:25000)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arrival

The left-facing prominent corner.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Simon Mentz (alt) and Phil Wilkins, 1991

16Trad 40m
2 Father Gibney's Gallant Rescue

Quite good. Pitch lengths are guesses.

Start: Start below cracks on the left wall of the prominent corner of "Arrival"

  1. 20m (21) Up the face a couple of metres left of the corner to a ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Up a bit, then out right under roof to a really nice crack on arete.

FA: James Falla, Ant (alt) and Jon Muir, 1991

21Trad 40m 2
3 He Reviewed The Human Species As He Floated In Its Faeces

Start: Start at a distinct off-width corner about 20 metres left of "Arrival"

  1. 40m (19) Up corner, avoiding the use of off-width technique to tree.

  2. 10m (19) Up crack behind tree.

FA: james Falla, Ant (alt) and Jon Muir, 1991

19Trad 50m 2
4 In The Restaurant

Start: Start about 25-30 metres left of "He Reviewed..." at a good line with a bulging crack start.

  1. 35m (16) Steeply up the line and on past the tree into the corner. After a superb hand-crack, avoid a dirty, closed corner by traversing left. Go up and belay on any of a series of ledges

  2. 30m (-) Move back right and climb the wall, tending right, going just past the left side of an overhang to belay in a large cave. Take care with the rock on this pitch.

  3. 10m (-) Walk ro the right-hand end of the cave and go up through more bulges.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1991

16Trad 75m 3
5 At Tienappels

The grey corner marking the right-hand side of the wall. Beware of loose blocks.

FA: Unknown, 2000

14Trad 35m
6 Satana

The line up the face just left of the grey corner of "At Tienappels"

FA: Unknown, possibly Lincoln Shepherd, 1991

25Trad 35m
7 ** Mental Gymnastics

Great climbing. The right-hand line on the orange wall has a right-facing corner at 2/3 height.

  1. 10m (18) Short, steep wall with difficult protection to terrace. Up 2 metres to ledge.

  2. 25m (21) Up wall to base of corner then corner and crack to horizontal break. Now 4 metres wall (crux) to belay.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Kieran Loughran, 1991

21Trad 35m 2
8 Consumption

Awkward wall left of 'Mental Gymnastics' to terrace. Left-facing corner then the left-most of the major lines on the orange wall.

FA: Steve Monks, Kieran Loughran, 1992

23Trad 35m
9 Lothar

Wideish line marking left side of orange wall.

FA: Erik Lock, Nick Neagle, 1992

16Trad 35m
10 Felix The Cat

Up wall just left of wideish line.

FA: Nick Neagle, Erik Lock, 1992

17Unknown 35m
11 A Word Too Much

Sustained wall to base of left-facing corner. Up corner to loose ledge on right. Climb a thin crack to a wide crack and go up past a couple of blockages to abseil tree.

Start: Start on the right side of the gully left of the orange wall and stinking cave at the line left of a major, cruddy corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1991

19Trad 40m

1.5.4. Crystal Palace 33 routes in Crag

All Trad Tim's Gully Wall 5 routes in Area
Summary: Crystal Cave 6 routes in Area
Summary: Main Wall 9 routes in Area
Summary: Hourglass Prow 2 routes in Area
Summary: Banksia Wall 11 routes in Area

1.5.5. Quartz Edge 5 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A steep crag in a remote setting but less than 100 metres from the car. There are one or two options for hard new routes.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive along the 'Victoria Range' Road for 9.4 km, 4.1 km past 'The Fortress' turnoff. Park near the bottom of a long hill. The crag is just west of the road.

GR 179709 1:25000

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Three Hours (project) 28Trad 24m
2 * Prague Spring

A good climb up the best line on the cliff. It's an attractive corner that doesn't quite reach the ground and leads to a roof.

  1. 30m (18) Up the steep wall below and left of the line until able to step right into base of the corner. Up the corner until just below the roof. Traverse left to the arete. Up through the left end of the roof, traverse 3 metres left to avoid dirty rock then up a little to a ledge.

  2. 8m (-) Easily up right.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1988

18Trad 38m 2
3 Stairway To The Moon

Nice but a bit loose. Start 2 metres right of 'Prague Spring'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Martin Davis, Chris Lawrence., 1994

17Trad 42m
4 On The Amazon

Steep start and finish but no all that great.

Start at undercut corner 20 metres right of 'Prague Spring'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1988

16Trad 40m
5 No Strings Attached

Start 5 metres right of 'On The Amazon'.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Glenn Tempest, 1993

18Trad 40m

1.5.6. C.G. Wall 1 route in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Another isolated outcrop with only the one climb to date.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Just 40 metres uphill from 'Victoria Range' Road after the first hairpin bend north of Mount Thackeray picnic area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Too Cute to Route

Nice climbing up obvious weakness in the middle of wall closest to road. Move left into first shallow corner at half height.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

13Trad 15m

1.6. The Fortress Area 98 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.293313, -37.312090

Description:© (kieranl)

Remote and rarely visited.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gunning For The Master

Steep on brilliant rock with outrageous holds.

Start: Start 15 metres right of "Mordoc" is a lovely bulging orange wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Wayne Maher, 1993

19Trad 50m
2 Guns And Greenbacks

Pitch 2 - 3 rests

FA: Wayne Maher, Campbell Mercer, 1993

21 M0Unknown 30m

1.6.1. Sawmill Cliff 8 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Big, remote and serious. The existing good climbs are steep and loose and the unclimbed upper wall on the middle cliff is very compact.

The cliff sits just below a saddle high on the range and faces north.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 123649

Head north along Sawmill Track from Strachans for nearly 2 kilometres to a crossroad. Go left (west) along this track which is probably closed to vehicle traffic. Follow the track which contours northish, away from the cliff for a fair distance and, just when you are beginning to despair, cuts sharply back left. Then after another two or three hundred metres the track turns back sharply to the right. Here there should be a large boulder on the left and a large cliff further left. Contour across the hillside for this (10-25 minutes depending on line and luck).

Total walking time 45 - 60 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sawn To Silence

Curving crack line of left of the forward buttress.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1992

19Trad 30m
2 Selective Logging

The easiest way to the halfway ledge and the descent route.

Start: Start at the top of the little saddle.

FA: Peter Treby, 1988

10 RTrad 20m
3 Daniel Bone

Just left of the saddle is a right-rising, discontinuous crack system. Follow the cracks at first then go straight up.

FA: Glenn Donahue, Andrew Webb, S. McLelland, Neil Barr, Peter Treby, 1988

13 RTrad 30m
4 Clear Felled

Probably the best of the easy climbs here but, again, not well-protected.

Start: Start 45 metres left of the saddle, 15 metres left of the dirty corner.

FA: Peter Treby, S.McLelland, Neil Barr, 1988

10 RTrad 55m
5 Twisted Vista

A serious first pitch, loose and poorly-protected

  1. 20m (19) From the right side of the ledge, climb up in a rising rightward line with care to a major horizontal break. Belay below a leftward-facing corner.

  2. 25m (-) Good climbing leads up the corner to belay on the prow on the right.

  3. 25m (-) On up the line to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Simon Mentz (alt), 1989

19Trad 70m 3
6 Pilot To Bombardier

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Twisted Vista"

  1. 20m (22) Go up then slightly right to a cosy belay immediately below the crack through the right edge of the huge triangular roof that undercuts the buttress

  2. 25m (22) Around the roof and on to easier ground. When about 5 metres below the next huge roofline make a rising traverse left to a belay ledge and bolt.

  3. 25m (-) An exciting lead off the ledge, above and slightly left of the bolt, gains a ledge. Now more easily to the top

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1989

22 RTrad 70m 3
7 * Doom Merchant

Even more dramatic, this takes the hanging crack on the left side of the triangular roof.

FA: Simon Mentz, Kevin Lindorff, 1989

23 RTrad 30m
8 Slash and Burn

Follow the left-slanting dyke left of the corner all the way. Just below the roofline traverse 7-8 metres left to a small stance just below shattered terrace. Abseil from a shonky knob of rock (or tackle the horrific upper part of the cliff).

Start: Start at the base of the dirty corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Enga Lokey, 1999

15 RTrad 50m

1.6.2. The Fortress 50 routes in Area

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.298943, -37.307076

Description:© (kieranl)

A varied set of climbs moving right from the "camping caves" on the eastern side of 'The Fortress' block.

While some of the climbs are good and the setting is fantastic, there is a liberal selection of "Campbell Mercer Specials".

Full descriptions of most climbs are not given as the area needs to be revisited and sorted out. However, the relative locations of climbs are here.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach from the 'Victoria Range' Road. FRom the end of the old 4WD track follow the walking track steeply uphill to the caves. These are not a good campsite as there is no water.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Adjunct

"Not one of the best climbs on the cliff". That should set the alarm bells ringing.

FA: Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer, 1994

15Trad 22m Spanish Wall 8 routes in Area
All Trad Eastern End 12 routes in Area
Mostly Trad Black Knight Buttress 18 routes in Area
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Easier trad climbing in a remote, beautiful location.

The climbing is mostly easy with one or two superb natural lines but be wary of huge, fragile jugs on some sections. On the right side of the cliff is a smaller wall of superb rock with a few harder climbs. Baby Bum Wall 2 routes in Area
All Trad Summit Block 8 routes in Area
All Trad
Approach:© (nmonteith)

Situated on a western spur at the top of the range, 'The Fortress' is one of the most remote major climbing spots in Gariwerd.

Rescue from here has taken many hours even with perfect weather and helicopter support. Mobile coverage has been available in the Passport area but this may vary according to weather or carrier. Western Cave 1 route in Area
All Trad

1.6.3. Crimson Tower 2 routes in Area

All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

Sport climbers have ogled this glowing orange wall for many years. It can be seen as a tantalizing crimson beacon just below 'The Fortress' when walking down from the Gallery. The main wall is totally blank, but just just around the left arete is a more featured orange face that begged to be climbed.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Walk up from 'Harrop Track' along the Fortress hiking trail to the Oasis Camping Cave (about an hour of uphill slogging). Head down stream from this for 5 minutes to arrive at the wall on the right-hand side of the creek. You get a really good view of the wall half way up the walking track. Water can usually be found in the creek.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gay Welders Super Chimney

Another fine route by this crack climbing team. The cliff splitting line up the left side of the Crimson Tower. At the top of the chimney (40m) belay on the ledge. Second pitch launches out right across mega exposure to reach summit.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2007

12Trad 55m
2 ** Four Armed

Two pitches of outragous steep and interesting climbing, with a very thin and reachy crux pitch. One of the last major walls in the 'Grampians' to be climbed? Originally equipped by Jono Schmidt and Neil mid 2007, it took five months before Neil could convince anyone else to go in to try it! This route could be led in one giant pitch, but you would need more than 25 quickdraws and a double sized rack. The climb stays mostly dry even in torrential rain - as tested on the first ascent!

Start: Starts on the far left of the Crimson Tower, on sloping rock platforms. Bring a large cam to belay from.

  1. 30m (25) Step right (FH) and across crimpy slab and into shallow corner. Up this on small wires/cams to rooflet and juggy grey wall. Up reachy flake to big heuco, then crux crimpy face above to belay in large horizontal slot. For the hanging belay anchors use RB above, and medium cams to the left. Six bolts in total on this pitch.

  2. 30m (24) Stunning location. Out roof and up exposed headwall past 4 ringbolts to base of left facing corner. Up this on trad then step right, to final difficult grey wall. Rap off with DOUBLE 60m ropes. 50m ropes will NOT reach the ground.

FA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2008

25Trad 60m

1.6.4. World's End 0 routes in Area

1.6.5. Shadow Lands 19 routes in Area

Mostly Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A collection of buttresses of high-quality quartz-rich rock below the eastern end of 'The Fortress'.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Take the high approach to 'The Fortress'. From the end of the 4WD track "Follow the Fortress walking track to 100 metres past the last creek on the track and just past a slight clearing on the right there is an overgrown remnant of a logging track, which is also on the right. Follow this (old track) past a large fallen tree across the route to a small gully. This is above the left end of the cliff.

Follow the gully down and left for approximately 80 metres to the first buttress of good climbable rock. PS If you have not reached the cliff line in 10 minutes of leaving the walking track, you're lost."

These notes are 16 years old and haven't been checked but the old logging track may still be discernible. It's just before the walking track climbs steeply to the eastern caves.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 If We Were Giants

Up corner and crack line through overhang to top.

Start: Corner in centre of face on first buttress.

FA: Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher, Andrew Webb, 1994

18Trad 20m
2 Plastic Pullers Worst Nightmare

Up cracks 1 metre left of righthand arete to a ledge. Directly through the overhang in the arete and directly up the face to the top.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'If We Were Giants'.

FA: Glenn Donohue, Andrew Webb, Wayne Maher, 1994

18Trad 22m
3 Tamlin

Thin crack 5 metres right of If We Are Giants, on the right side of the arete, then the corner system above. Follow the weakness up the centre of the wall.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glenn Donohue, Andrew Webb, 1994

19Trad 22m
4 Beheaded

Up the face on the right of the corner to a roof, through this and left into the main corner. Follow the crack line diagonally up right to an abseil tree.

Start: Start on the right side of the buttress, 10 metres right of If We Are Giants, at a corner with a triangular roof at half height.

FA: Andrew Webb, Glenn Donohue, Wayne Maher, 1994

16Trad 18m
5 Take All Tension

Up and over ledge then straight up the wall above.

Start: Scramble for the right to a scrubby ledge at the base of the cliff below a bulging section near the centre of the wall.

FA: Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith, Wayne Maher, 2000

19Trad 20m
6 Jumping At Shadows

Follow the cracks to the left end of the roof. Move up and right through the roof to finish up the line on the left side of the upper face.

Start: Start on the left of the buttress and 4 metres left of the central overhangs.

FA: Andrew Webb, Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, 1993

16Trad 22m
7 More Exciting Than Sex

Promises, promises. Starts below the central overhangs and orange rock.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb, 1994

18Unknown 23m
8 The Year That Was

Up the bulging column of rock and through the steepening, tending right then back slightly left. Finish on the right side of the upper wall.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'More Exciting Than Sex' on the right side of the overhangs.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith, 1994

18Trad 25m
9 Jamb A TCU Up Glens Crack

Terrible name.

Start: Starts 7 metres right of 'More Exciting Than Sex'.

FA: Graeme Smith, Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher, 1994

18Trad 20m
10 New Routeaholic

Up past solution pockets to small roof. Up the steepest section of roof to follow the vague arete above.

Start: Start as for JATTUGC

FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb, 1994

16Trad 20m Blue Cities Area 7 routes in Cliff
All Trad

A hundred metres or so, past the previous climbs is a gully breaking the cliff line. Then there is another buttres of clean rock with a right-facing corner on the right side starting from a large vegetated ledge.. Knights Wall 2 routes in Cliff
All Trad

Approximately 200 metres right of Grey Gold are some low cave/overhangs. 35 metres right of these is an orange and grey wall which forms the right side of a large corner.

1.6.6. Craigend 9 routes in Area

Unknown and Trad
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