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Description

Located on the south east corner of the aptly named 'Diseased Wall', 'Wallyworld' is a little gem in a monstrous sea of choss. The right side of the wall is framed by the classic corner of 'Peep Show' 23 and is capped by a 2m roof 20m off the deck. A standard rack of wires and cams (up to Camalot 3) should suffice along with a bunch of slings to extend runners. All the routes were cleaned before they were climbed however there is still some flaky rock and stray bits of lichen so take care. 'Wallyworld' faces south and is in the shade all day and all year so it's best in the warmer months. For those who get caught out this far in bad weather an excellent bivvy for two or three is located at the start of 'Peep Show'.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

To access 'Wallyworld' follow the northern edge of Flame Wall until you pick up a trail marked with blue ribbon. The trail takes you to the base of an easy ascent gully where a 5 minute scramble gets you to the base of the wall. Allow 20 minutes from Flame Wall.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Me and Johnson Trad 20m

The first of two cracks to the left of 'Peep Show'. Climb the short wall to the base of the crack. At the top of the crack traverse right to finish as for 'Peep Show'.

FA: Graham Trafford, 2008

2
21 Superhands Trad 20m

The second thinner crack. Up the short wall then pull steeply into the base of the crack. When the crack expires traverse right and finish as for 'Peep Show'.

FA: Graham Trafford, 2008

3
23 * Echo Beach Mixed 20m, 4

Takes the major weakness through the capping roof just left of 'Peep Show'. Approach via Me and Jonhson or 'Superhands'. Instead of traversing into 'Peep Show' climb the brushed wall and roof above past 4 FH's to a rap station.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2008

4
23 ** Peep Show Trad 25m

The major curving corner. A steep start leads to some delicate bridging before a strenuous section of underclinging (crux) brings a welcome rest to hand. Continue up the corner to the roof before making a dramatic traverse rightwards to gain the arête. Loweroff from rings.

FA: Graham Trafford, 2008

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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