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Summary

Some good moderate sport and easy trad

Description

Weirs Creek is the main drainage east of Emus' Foot. The lowest crag on 'Weirs Creek' looks like a pile of choss. However, there are some good things tucked away. The "Disparate Housewives Wall" offers excellent moderate sport-climbing and there are some other things scattered about and some other potential.

The bottom of "Disparate Housewives Wall" seeps heavily for a long time after rain so be prepared to bail water from holds during spring. This wall faces west and comes into the sun about 1 PM (Daylight-saving time). An early start is advised in summer.

The creek water is safe to drink and on a warm day is very nice just before the 10 minutes uphill back to the car. To help keep it that way please take care with toileting. A trowel is in place at the base of the cliff to help bury faeces. Please descend the track a little and then go across the hillside away from the creek to do your business. Dig a good hole.

Also, please carry out any used toilet or tissue paper that doesn't require burial. Take some plastic bags to carry the used paper.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
West Side Crag
8
11
18m
1

Routes

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Grade Route
2
17 Matter Sport 10m, 5

Pleasant face near the top of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010

3
Open Project Sport 15m

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

4

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

5

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Catherine de Vaus, 2012

6

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

FA: Adam Demmert, 2012

7

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

8
16 Grey Area Trad 12m

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

9
16 Contact Trad 12m

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2010

10

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

Start: Start at the left side of the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

11
15 Sleeper Service Sport 60m

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

  2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman (alt), 2010

12
20 Dumber Bay Sport 8m, 3

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top.

The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly.

Start: Scramble out the ramp left od"Disparate Housewives" to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

13
23 * Climber Wants a Wife Sport 14m, 6

FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, 2012

14
19 ** Disparate Housewives Sport 20m, 7

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2010

15

Start: Scramble up to orange ledge (bolt) Crank through pockets, clipping the bolt in the pocket. Finish up crack.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2011

16
21 *** Hysteria Lane Sport 25m, 11

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

11 bolts (not 10 as per guidebook.)

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

17
Project Sport Project

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

18
17 ** Widow Of Opportunity Sport 25m, 10

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch.

Start from ledge 2m above ground level, R of Hysteria Lane. Clip first bolt of 'Barefoot and Poignant', then traverse left and up arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

19
23 ** Barefoot and Poignant Sport 20m, 10

Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades.

Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2011

20

Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...

21
24 ** Fairies and Blutterfies Sport 20m, 9

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. A little crumbly rock higher doesn't really detract.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2013

22
23 ** Let it Burn! Sport 25m, 9

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil,

23
17 Bonobo Mixed 20m, 1

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

FA: M. Johnston

24

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

FA: M. Johnston, S. Holloway

25
16 Mailorder Bribe Sport 15m, 6

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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