Weirs Creek Mostly sport climbing32 routes in crag
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Some good moderate sport and easy trad
Weirs Creek is the main drainage east of Emus' Foot. The lowest crag on 'Weirs Creek' looks like a pile of choss. However, there are some good things tucked away. The "Disparate Housewives Wall" offers excellent moderate sport-climbing and there are some other things scattered about and some other potential.
The bottom of "Disparate Housewives Wall" seeps heavily for a long time after rain so be prepared to bail water from holds during spring. This wall faces west and comes into the sun about 1 PM (Daylight-saving time). An early start is advised in summer.
The creek water is safe to drink and on a warm day is very nice just before the 10 minutes uphill back to the car. To help keep it that way please take care with toileting. A trowel is in place at the base of the cliff to help bury faeces. Please descend the track a little and then go across the hillside away from the creek to do your business. Dig a good hole.
Also, please carry out any used toilet or tissue paper that doesn't require burial. Take some plastic bags to carry the used paper.© (kieranl)
Access issues inherited from Victoria Range
The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.
Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.
Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades.
Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".
FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2011
Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. A little crumbly rock higher doesn't really detract.
FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2013
Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off
FA: Steve Holloway & Paul Geil
The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.
FA: M. Johnston
Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.
FA: M. Johnston & S. Holloway
Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.
Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2010
There are no open trips for this crag
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