Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Summary

Some good moderate sport and easy trad

Description

Weirs Creek is the main drainage east of Emus' Foot. The lowest crag on 'Weirs Creek' looks like a pile of choss. However, there are some good things tucked away. The "Disparate Housewives Wall" offers excellent moderate sport-climbing and there are some other things scattered about and some other potential.

The bottom of "Disparate Housewives Wall" seeps heavily for a long time after rain so be prepared to bail water from holds during spring. This wall faces west and comes into the sun about 1 PM (Daylight-saving time). An early start is advised in summer.

The creek water is safe to drink and on a warm day is very nice just before the 10 minutes uphill back to the car. To help keep it that way please take care with toileting. A trowel is in place at the base of the cliff to help bury faeces. Please descend the track a little and then go across the hillside away from the creek to do your business. Dig a good hole.

Also, please carry out any used toilet or tissue paper that doesn't require burial. Take some plastic bags to carry the used paper.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
West Side Crag
7
6
18m
1

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
17 Matter Sport 10m, 5

Pleasant face near the top of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010

3
Open Project Sport 15m

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

4

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

5

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Catherine de Vaus, 2012

6

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

FA: Adam Demmert, 2012

7

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

8
16 Grey Area Trad 12m

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

9
16 Contact Trad 12m

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2010

10

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

Start: Start at the left side of the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

11
15 Sleeper Service Sport 60m

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

  2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman (alt), 2010

12
20 Dumber Bay Sport 8m, 3

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top.

The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly.

Start: Scramble out the ramp left od"Disparate Housewives" to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

13
23 * Climber Wants a Wife Sport 14m, 6

FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, 2012

14
19 * Disparate Housewives Sport 20m, 7

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2010

15

More steep pocket-pulling leads to a finish crack.

Start: Just right of "Disparate Housewives"

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2011

16
21 ** Hysteria Lane Sport 25m, 10

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Again grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

17
17 ** Widow Of Opportunity Sport 25m, 10

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch.

Start: Start from ledge just above cave right of "Hysteria Lane".

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

18
23 ** Barefoot and Poignant Sport 20m, 10

Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades.

Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2011

19

Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...

20
24 ** Fairies and Blutterfies Sport 20m, 9

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. A little crumbly rock higher doesn't really detract.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2013

21
23 ** Let it Burn! Sport 25m, 9

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil, Sissy Hankshaw, W Sobchak

22
17 Bonobo Mixed 20m, 1

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

FA: M. Johnston

23

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

FA: M. Johnston, S. Holloway

24
16 Mailorder Bribe Sport 15m, 6

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.