Weirs Creek Mostly sport climbing33 routes in crag
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Some good moderate sport and easy trad
It came to the attention of some climbers, that some of the bolts have started to loosen. They have attempted to hand screw them tight. Please bring a spanner along; or even better, put in some glue-ins. Please be aware of the loose bolts.
Access issues inherited from Victoria Range
The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.
Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.
Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. As of June 2015 some bolt hangers were quite loose (bolts were finger tightened).
FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 2010
Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades. As of June 2015 some bolt hangers were quite loose (bolts were finger tightened).
Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".
FA: Alex Trnovsky & Hobbsy, 2011
Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. Only 24 if, as on the FA, you ignore the obvious line and climb a convoluted crux out left at mid height...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage.
FA: Alex Trnovsky & Ben Weissner, 2013
Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off
FA: Steve Holloway & Paul Geil
The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.
FA: M. Johnston
Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.
FA: M. Johnston & S. Holloway
Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.
Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2010
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