Weirs Creek

  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 30 Minutes
  • Photos: 11
  • Ascents: 993


Some good moderate sport and easy trad


It came to the attention of some climbers, that some of the bolts have started to loosen. They have attempted to hand screw them tight. Please bring a spanner along; or even better, put in some glue-ins. Please be aware of the loose bolts.

Access issues inherited from Eureka Area

The Yanganaginj Njawi (Emus' foot) track is a closed to vehicle track at all times of the year. This is regardless of whether it is locked or signed as "Closed". Please do not drive around the gate or through if open. Driving on closed roads endangers access. Approach from Matthew Track if that is open, face a longer walk or climb elsewhere. Discussions with Land Managers are still in progress.



Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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West Side Crag


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Grade Route

Pleasant face on the left near the top of the gully. Step left off boulder and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Nov 2010

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

FFA: adam demmert & cathdv, 7 Jan 2012

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

FA: Adam Demmert, Jan 2012

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams. Face starting 3 metres left of the corner of Contact to anchor of Special Circumstances at right end of roof system.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 13 Aug 2011

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

The short corner to large sloping ledge and up slightly left to anchor for Grey Area.

FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, May 2010

Start a little left of where the track reaches the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, May 2010

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

  2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Ray Lassman (alt), Oct 2010

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top. Scramble out the ramp left of Disparate Housewives to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

Short, seamy wall starting at flake from ramp system.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 15 Oct 2011

Leftmost of the good pocketed routes. Easy pocketed start to left slanting weakness, then fingery crux up grey wall.

FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, Apr 2012

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran & Ray Lassman, Aug 2010

3m R of DH up the pocketed wall and onto the arete and follow this all the way to the anchors of DH

FFA: Matt Brooks & Tracey Martens, 6 Sep

Start: Scramble up to orange ledge (bolt) Crank through pockets, clipping the bolt in the pocket. Finish up crack.

FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 20 Mar 2011

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

11 bolts (not 10 as per guidebook.)

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 29 Dec 2010

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. The hangers work loose with frequent ascents so taking a shifting spanner in to tighten them after an ascent is worthwhile.

Start from ledge 2m above ground level, right of Hysteria Lane.

Bridge up to first bolt then traverse left. At 3rd bolt, go up until the arete is gained and followed.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, Sep 2010

Now completely superseded.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Hobbsy, 17 Sep 2011

Now finishes where climbs should. Start in the same place as 'Widow of Opportunity'. Follow the crack line straight up and continue up the wall when it fades. From the double rings head up and right past two more bolts to the anchors in the alcove.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Andrew Clements, Mar 2016

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. I think it is general consensus that this is not 24. If you want a 24 version of this climb you have to climb, as the FA, 'the convulted crux out left at mid height while ignoring the obvious line'...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Ben Weissner, 2 Feb 2013

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway & Paul Geil

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

FA: M. Johnston

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

FA: M. Johnston & S. Holloway

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start at the little face at on the right side of the gully.

Face past 4 bolts. Easy ground then up left side of arete to anchors.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 29 Dec 2010

Follow prominent sharp arete that is 10m to the west of Mailorder Bribe. Some loose blocks and fragile rock, but otherwise a nice line. Can be done in one long pitch or split into two pitches.

FA: caillan sainsbury & Matt White, 30 May 2015

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