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Table of contents

1. Weirs Creek 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.294552, -37.208216

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some good moderate sport and easy trad

Description:© (kieranl)

Weirs Creek is the main drainage east of Emus' Foot. The lowest crag on 'Weirs Creek' looks like a pile of choss. However, there are some good things tucked away. The "Disparate Housewives Wall" offers excellent moderate sport-climbing and there are some other things scattered about and some other potential.

The bottom of "Disparate Housewives Wall" seeps heavily for a long time after rain so be prepared to bail water from holds during spring. This wall faces west and comes into the sun about 1 PM (Daylight-saving time). An early start is advised in summer.

The creek water is safe to drink and on a warm day is very nice just before the 10 minutes uphill back to the car. To help keep it that way please take care with toileting. A trowel is in place at the base of the cliff to help bury faeces. Please descend the track a little and then go across the hillside away from the creek to do your business. Dig a good hole.

Also, please carry out any used toilet or tissue paper that doesn't require burial. Take some plastic bags to carry the used paper.

Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach:

Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Matter

Pleasant face near the top of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010

17Sport 10m, 5
2 Open Project

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

Sport 15m
3 Smoky and the Banditos LHV

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

23Sport 20m, 9
4 * Smoky and the Banditos

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Catherine de Vaus, 2012

25Sport 20m
5 * Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

FA: Adam Demmert, 2012

Sport Project
6 Special Circumstances (Open Project)

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

Trad 15m
7 Grey Area

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

16Trad 12m
8 Contact

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2010

16Trad 12m
9 Return Of The Native

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

Start: Start at the left side of the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

9Trad 50m
10 Sleeper Service

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

  2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman (alt), 2010

15Sport 60m
11 Dumber Bay

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top.

The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly.

Start: Scramble out the ramp left od"Disparate Housewives" to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

20Sport 8m, 3
12 * Climber Wants a Wife

FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, 2012

23Sport 14m, 6
13 ** Disparate Housewives

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2010

19Sport 20m, 7
14 ** The Young And The Wrestlers

Start: Scramble up to orange ledge (bolt) Crank through pockets, clipping the bolt in the pocket. Finish up crack.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2011

19Sport 25m, 10
15 *** Hysteria Lane

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

11 bolts (not 10 as per guidebook.)

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

21Sport 25m, 11
16 Project

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

Sport Project
17 ** Widow Of Opportunity

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch.

Start from ledge 2m above ground level, R of Hysteria Lane. Clip first bolt of 'Barefoot and Poignant', then traverse left and up arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

17Sport 25m, 10
18 ** Barefoot and Poignant

Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades.

Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2011

23Sport 20m, 10
19 Closed Project

Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...

Sport
20 ** Fairies and Blutterfies

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. A little crumbly rock higher doesn't really detract.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2013

24Sport 20m, 9
21 ** Let it Burn!

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil,

23Sport 25m, 9
22 Bonobo

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

FA: M. Johnston

17Mixed 20m, 1
23 * Flail Furiously for Footholds

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

FA: M. Johnston, S. Holloway

26Sport 25m, 5
24 Mailorder Bribe

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

16Sport 15m, 6

1.1. West Side 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Compact orange and grey wall on West side of Weirs Creek. Morning sun and afternoon shade.

Approach:

New approach - As for Pocket Wall (Weirs Creek) - At end of Emus Foot (Jananginj Jawi) Track, turn right off the vehicle track (approx 200 metres down hill from gate after third 'speed' hump). Head diagonally left up towards the crag through open bush, crossing two creeks (second of which is normally running). At second creek, follow creek bed up to just below crags, then follow intermittent cairns up left to wall. Approximate walking time from gate at end of Emus Foot Track is 15 minutes

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Reload.......Now!

Start off boulder at left end of wall. Up wall on great jugs to base of head wall where holds become significantly smaller (crux)! Up to lower off on very top of wall.

For another good warm up - go right at second last bolt to lower off above Revolver (Grade 17/18)

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, 9th Nov

22Sport 18m, 8
2 Lapsed Pacifist

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. From the tree-fern gully continue steeply up the hillside below the cliffs. Continue past the large, rust-coloured slabby corner to the next gully and up a little to below the orange streaks. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

21Sport 15m, 7
3 * Revolver

Starts at small hanging corner just down right of LP. Stick clip first bolt. Up corner (crux) to join LP at third bolt, step left then up keeping right of bolts to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, 2014

21Sport 20m, 8
4 ** Me and My Gun

Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. Start off rock step, THIN holds to start past first bolt (crux). Up right to undercling then straight up wall to dbl bolt lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 2014

22Sport 20m, 8
5 *** Pump Action

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start, up short corner for a few moves (as for 3 minute Rule), out left on small holds on horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, Anthony Pattison, 2014

22Sport 20m, 9
6 CLOSED Project A

Closed Project - Link up between Pump Action and Me and My Gun

Set by Steve Holloway

Sport Project 12
7 * Right Caliber

Same start as for Revolver. At third bolt (as for LP), rising traverse out right using bolts on Me and My Gun and Pump Action (use long draws) to lower off on right arete above 3 minute rule.

Another good variant is to continue up Me and My Gun from middle of traverse. (FA Steve and Amanda Holloway - 21/09/2014

FA: Steve Holloway, Anthony Pattison

21Sport 18m, 7
8 * 3 minute rule

Good warm up. Undercut start (as for Pump Action and Project A), up short corner and then up wall above to lower off on arete

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 21st Sep

19Sport 15m, 7

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
9 Return Of The Native Trad 50m 1. Weirs Creek
15 Sleeper Service Sport 60m 1. Weirs Creek
16 Contact Trad 12m 1. Weirs Creek
Grey Area Trad 12m 1. Weirs Creek
Mailorder Bribe Sport 15m, 6 1. Weirs Creek
17 Bonobo Mixed 20m, 1 1. Weirs Creek
Matter Sport 10m, 5 1. Weirs Creek
** Widow Of Opportunity Sport 25m, 10 1. Weirs Creek
19 ** Disparate Housewives Sport 20m, 7 1. Weirs Creek
** The Young And The Wrestlers Sport 25m, 10 1. Weirs Creek
* 3 minute rule Sport 15m, 7 1.1. West Side
20 Dumber Bay Sport 8m, 3 1. Weirs Creek
21 *** Hysteria Lane Sport 25m, 11 1. Weirs Creek
Lapsed Pacifist Sport 15m, 7 1.1. West Side
* Revolver Sport 20m, 8 1.1. West Side
* Right Caliber Sport 18m, 7 1.1. West Side
22 ** Me and My Gun Sport 20m, 8 1.1. West Side
*** Pump Action Sport 20m, 9 1.1. West Side
* Reload.......Now! Sport 18m, 8 1.1. West Side
23 ** Barefoot and Poignant Sport 20m, 10 1. Weirs Creek
* Climber Wants a Wife Sport 14m, 6 1. Weirs Creek
** Let it Burn! Sport 25m, 9 1. Weirs Creek
Smoky and the Banditos LHV Sport 20m, 9 1. Weirs Creek
24 ** Fairies and Blutterfies Sport 20m, 9 1. Weirs Creek
25 * Smoky and the Banditos Sport 20m 1. Weirs Creek
26 * Flail Furiously for Footholds Sport 25m, 5 1. Weirs Creek
? Closed Project Sport 1. Weirs Creek
Open Project Sport 15m 1. Weirs Creek
Project Sport Project 1. Weirs Creek
* Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish Sport Project 1. Weirs Creek
Special Circumstances (Open Project) Trad 15m 1. Weirs Creek
CLOSED Project A Sport Project 12 1.1. West Side