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Table of contents

1. Weirs Creek 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.294552, -37.208216

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some good moderate sport and easy trad

Description:© (kieranl)

Weirs Creek is the main drainage east of Emus' Foot. The lowest crag on 'Weirs Creek' looks like a pile of choss. However, there are some good things tucked away. The "Disparate Housewives Wall" offers excellent moderate sport-climbing and there are some other things scattered about and some other potential.

The bottom of "Disparate Housewives Wall" seeps heavily for a long time after rain so be prepared to bail water from holds during spring. This wall faces west and comes into the sun about 1 PM (Daylight-saving time). An early start is advised in summer.

The creek water is safe to drink and on a warm day is very nice just before the 10 minutes uphill back to the car. To help keep it that way please take care with toileting. A trowel is in place at the base of the cliff to help bury faeces. Please descend the track a little and then go across the hillside away from the creek to do your business. Dig a good hole.

Also, please carry out any used toilet or tissue paper that doesn't require burial. Take some plastic bags to carry the used paper.

Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach:

Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Matter

Pleasant face near the top of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010

17Sport 10m, 5
2 Open Project

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

Sport 15m
3 Smoky and the Banditos LHV

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

23Sport 20m, 9
4 * Smoky and the Banditos

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Catherine de Vaus, 2012

25Sport 20m
5 * Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

FA: Adam Demmert, 2012

Sport Project
6 Special Circumstances (Open Project)

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

Unknown 15m
7 Grey Area

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

16Trad 12m
8 Contact

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2010

16Trad 12m
9 Return Of The Native

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

Start: Start at the left side of the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

9Trad 50m
10 Sleeper Service

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

  2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman (alt), 2010

15Sport 60m
11 Dumber Bay

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top.

The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly.

Start: Scramble out the ramp left od"Disparate Housewives" to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

20Sport 8m, 3
12 * Climber Wants a Wife

FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, 2012

23Sport 14m, 6
13 * Disparate Housewives

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2010

19Sport 20m, 7
14 * The Young And The Wrestlers

More steep pocket-pulling leads to a finish crack.

Start: Just right of "Disparate Housewives"

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2011

19Sport 25m, 10
15 ** Hysteria Lane

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Again grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

21Sport 25m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 ** Widow Of Opportunity

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch.

Start: Start from ledge just above cave right of "Hysteria Lane".

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

17Sport 25m, 10
17 ** Barefoot and Poignant

Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades.

Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2011

23Sport 20m, 10
18 Closed Project

Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...

Sport
19 ** Fairies and Blutterfies

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. A little crumbly rock higher doesn't really detract.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2013

24Sport 20m, 9
20 ** Let it Burn!

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil, Sissy Hankshaw, W Sobchak

23Sport 25m, 9
21 Bonobo

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

FA: M. Johnston

17Mixed 20m, 1
22 * Flail Furiously for Footholds

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

FA: M. Johnston, S. Holloway

26Sport 25m, 5
23 Mailorder Bribe

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

16Sport 15m, 6

1.1. West Side 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The cliff just across the creek has some wide cracks. Just past this is a major gully choked with tree-ferns which has steep walls but hasn't been looked at closely. Uphill from this is a big slabby, corner.

Approach:

Approach the crags on the west side by following the base of the cliffs down to the creek and crossing it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lapsed Pacifist

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. From the tree-fern gully continue steeply up the hillside below the cliffs. Continue past the large, rust-coloured slabby corner to the next gully and up a little to below the orange streaks. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

21Sport 15m, 7
2 * Revolver

Starts at small hanging corner just down right of LP. Stick clip first bolt. Up corner (crux) to join LP at third bolt, step left then up keeping right of bolts to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, 2014

21Sport 20m, 8
3 ** Me and My Gun

Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. THIN holds to start past first bolt (crux). Up to undercling then up wall to dbl bolt lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 2014

22Sport 20m, 8
4 Project B

Line on right side of wall, undercut start

Set by Steve Holloway

Sport Project
5 Project C

Link up between Project B and A

Set by Steve Holloway

Sport Project
6 Project D

Link up between Revolver and Project A

Set by Steve Holloway

Sport Project

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
9 Return Of The Native Trad 50m 1. Weirs Creek
15 Sleeper Service Sport 60m 1. Weirs Creek
16 Contact Trad 12m 1. Weirs Creek
Grey Area Trad 12m 1. Weirs Creek
Mailorder Bribe Sport 15m, 6 1. Weirs Creek
17 Bonobo Mixed 20m, 1 1. Weirs Creek
Matter Sport 10m, 5 1. Weirs Creek
** Widow Of Opportunity Sport 25m, 10 1. Weirs Creek
19 * Disparate Housewives Sport 20m, 7 1. Weirs Creek
* The Young And The Wrestlers Sport 25m, 10 1. Weirs Creek
20 Dumber Bay Sport 8m, 3 1. Weirs Creek
21 ** Hysteria Lane Sport 25m, 10 1. Weirs Creek
Lapsed Pacifist Sport 15m, 7 1.1. West Side
* Revolver Sport 20m, 8 1.1. West Side
22 ** Me and My Gun Sport 20m, 8 1.1. West Side
23 ** Barefoot and Poignant Sport 20m, 10 1. Weirs Creek
* Climber Wants a Wife Sport 14m, 6 1. Weirs Creek
** Let it Burn! Sport 25m, 9 1. Weirs Creek
Smoky and the Banditos LHV Sport 20m, 9 1. Weirs Creek
24 ** Fairies and Blutterfies Sport 20m, 9 1. Weirs Creek
25 * Smoky and the Banditos Sport 20m 1. Weirs Creek
26 * Flail Furiously for Footholds Sport 25m, 5 1. Weirs Creek
? Closed Project Sport 1. Weirs Creek
Open Project Sport 15m 1. Weirs Creek
* Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish Sport Project 1. Weirs Creek
Special Circumstances (Open Project) Unknown 15m 1. Weirs Creek
Project B Sport Project 1.1. West Side
Project C Sport Project 1.1. West Side
Project D Sport Project 1.1. West Side