Weirs Creek Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kieran Loughran adam demmert Richard Lodge . Neil Monteith Simon Madden Anthony Cuskelly Rob Baker matt schnabl Tarje Bargheer

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1. Weirs Creek 21 in Crag
- 1.1. West Side 1 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Weirs Creek 21 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:: Some good moderate sport and easy trad
Description:© (kieranl): Weirs Creek is the main drainage east of Emus' Foot. The lowest crag on 'Weirs Creek' looks like a pile of choss. However, there are some good things tucked away. The "Disparate Housewives Wall" offers excellent moderate sport-climbing and there are some other things scattered about and some other potential.

The bottom of "Disparate Housewives Wall" seeps heavily for a long time after rain so be prepared to bail water from holds during spring. This wall faces west and comes into the sun about 1 PM (Daylight-saving time). An early start is advised in summer.

The creek water is safe to drink and on a warm day is very nice just before the 10 minutes uphill back to the car. To help keep it that way please take care with toileting. A trowel is in place at the base of the cliff to help bury faeces. Please descend the track a little and then go across the hillside away from the creek to do your business. Dig a good hole.

Also, please carry out any used toilet or tissue paper that doesn't require burial. Take some plastic bags to carry the used paper.
Access Issues: inherited from Grampians: National Park
Approach:© (kieranl): From the parking area below Jananginj Njani walk past the locked gate and follow the continuation of Camp Of The Emu's Foot Track east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Matter Pleasant face near the top of the gully. FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010	17	Sport 10m , 5
2	Open Project The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.		Sport 15m
3	Smoky and the Banditos LHV Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.	23	Sport 20m , 9
4	Smoky and the Banditos U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. FFA: Adam Demmert, Catherine de Vaus, 2012	25	Sport 20m	Neil Monteith 1 years ago 2nd shot. Really great sustained climbing - some rad pockets and mantles. A hidden gem. . 1 years ago Choking like greg norman.
5	Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish FA: Adam Demmert, 2012		Sport Project	adam demmert 4 months ago Desperate crimping after the crux of the 25. Could do very few moves! Will be a killer line!! pro...
6	Special Circumstances (Open Project) Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.		Unknown 15m
7	Grey Area Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams. FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011	16	Trad 12m
8	Contact Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle. FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2010	16	Trad 12m
9	Return Of The Native Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace. 20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully. Start: Start at the left side of the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres. FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010	9	Trad 50m
10	Sleeper Service Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly. Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully. FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman (alt), 2010	15	Sport 60m
11	Dumber Bay A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top. The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly. Start: Scramble out the ramp left od"Disparate Housewives" to 2 belay bolts on ramp system. FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011	20	Sport 8m , 3	. 1 years ago Every second counts!
12	Climber Wants a Wife FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, 2012	23	Sport 14m , 6	adam demmert 4 months ago Tricky crux, nice climb Neil Monteith 1 years ago I can't believe no one had done this. Cool pockets and tricky headwall.
13	Disparate Housewives Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor. FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2010	19	Sport 20m , 7	adam demmert 4 months ago fun climbing Neil Monteith 1 years ago Quality jugs all the way. 18.
14	The Young And The Wrestlers More steep pocket-pulling leads to a finish crack. Start: Just right of "Disparate Housewives" FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2011	19	Sport 25m , 10	adam demmert 4 months ago Fun climbing Neil Monteith 1 years ago More brilliant pockets
15	Hysteria Lane Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Again grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21. FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010	21	Sport 25m , 10	Neil Monteith 1 years ago Best route on this wall - slab is a great finish to the steepness below. . 1 years ago Living the true monks life.
16	Widow Of Opportunity Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. Start: Start from ledge just above cave right of "Hysteria Lane". FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010	17	Sport 25m , 10	Andrew Clark 3 months ago Nice climbing. Seemed very contrived to not step around the arête to the left around the 6th bol... adam demmert 4 months ago Warm up
17	Barefoot and Poignant Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades. Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity". FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2011	23	Sport 20m , 10	Anthony Cuskelly 6 months ago Clean to 6th, but too tired. Dogged to top. Should go with a fresher set of attempts. Anthony Cuskelly 6 months ago Clean to 5th, then some falls working beta. Lovely crack & pockets, with a thinner crux.
18	Closed Project Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...		Sport
19	Fairies and Blutterfies Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. A little crumbly rock higher doesn't really detract. FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2013	24	Sport 20m , 9
20	Mailorder Bribe Good start but overall just something to loosen up on. Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall. FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010	16	Sport 15m , 6	Andrew Clark 3 months ago Nice little warmup Anthony Cuskelly 6 months ago Would be better if it finished at the ledge.

1.1. West Side 1 route in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: The cliff just across the creek has some wide cracks. Just past this is a major gully choked with tree-ferns which has steep walls but hasn't been looked at closely. Uphill from this is a big slabby, corner.
Approach:: Approach the crags on the west side by following the base of the cliffs down to the creek and crossing it.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Lapsed Pacifist East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. From the tree-fern gully continue steeply up the hillside below the cliffs. Continue past the large, rust-coloured slabby corner to the next gully and up a little to below the orange streaks. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up. FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012	21	Sport 15m , 7

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Lapsed Pacifist

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. From the tree-fern gully continue steeply up the hillside below the cliffs. Continue past the large, rust-coloured slabby corner to the next gully and up a little to below the orange streaks. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

Sport 15m , 7

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
9	Return Of The Native	Trad 50m	1. Weirs Creek
15	Sleeper Service	Sport 60m	1. Weirs Creek
16	Contact	Trad 12m	1. Weirs Creek
	Grey Area	Trad 12m	1. Weirs Creek
	Mailorder Bribe	Sport 15m , 6	1. Weirs Creek
17	Matter	Sport 10m , 5	1. Weirs Creek
	Widow Of Opportunity	Sport 25m , 10	1. Weirs Creek
19	Disparate Housewives	Sport 20m , 7	1. Weirs Creek
	The Young And The Wrestlers	Sport 25m , 10	1. Weirs Creek
20	Dumber Bay	Sport 8m , 3	1. Weirs Creek
21	Hysteria Lane	Sport 25m , 10	1. Weirs Creek
	Lapsed Pacifist	Sport 15m , 7	1.1. West Side
23	Barefoot and Poignant	Sport 20m , 10	1. Weirs Creek
	Climber Wants a Wife	Sport 14m , 6	1. Weirs Creek
	Smoky and the Banditos LHV	Sport 20m , 9	1. Weirs Creek
24	Fairies and Blutterfies	Sport 20m , 9	1. Weirs Creek
25	Smoky and the Banditos	Sport 20m	1. Weirs Creek
?	Closed Project	Sport	1. Weirs Creek
	Open Project	Sport 15m	1. Weirs Creek
	Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish	Sport Project	1. Weirs Creek
	Special Circumstances (Open Project)	Unknown 15m	1. Weirs Creek

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Crag Guide for Weirs Creek

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Weirs Creek 21 routes in Crag

1.1. West Side 1 route in Cliff

2. Index by grade