Topo #8485

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Route Grade Popularity Style
12 Dumber Bay

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top. The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly. Start: Scramble out the ramp left od"Disparate Housewives" to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

20 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
13 * Climber Wants a Wife
24 Sport 14m, 6 Unlink route
14 ** Disparate Housewives

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

19 Sport 20m, 7 Unlink route
15 ** The Young And The Wrestlers

Start: Scramble up to orange ledge (bolt) Crank through pockets, clipping the bolt in the pocket. Finish up crack.

19 Sport 25m, 10 Unlink route
16 *** Hysteria Lane

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21. 11 bolts (not 10 as per guidebook.)

21 Sport 25m, 11 Unlink route
17 Fumbles Route

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

23 Sport 18m Unlink route
18 ** Widow Of Opportunity

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. As of June 2015 some bolt hangers were quite loose (bolts were finger tightened). Start from ledge 2m above ground level, R of Hysteria Lane. Clip first bolt of 'Barefoot and Poignant', then traverse left and up arete.

17 Sport 25m, 10 Unlink route
19 ** Barefoot and Poignant

Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades. As of June 2015 some bolt hangers were quite loose (bolts were finger tightened). Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".

23 Sport 20m, 10 Unlink route
20 Closed Project

Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...

Sport Project Unlink route
21 * Fairies and Blutterfies

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. Only 24 if, as on the FA, you ignore the obvious line and climb a convoluted crux out left at mid height...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage.

24 Sport 20m, 9 Unlink route
22 ** Let it Burn!

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

23 Sport 25m, 9 Unlink route
23 Bonobo

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

17 Mixed 20m, 1 Unlink route

Topo #6799

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Route Grade Popularity Style
18 ** Widow Of Opportunity

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. As of June 2015 some bolt hangers were quite loose (bolts were finger tightened). Start from ledge 2m above ground level, R of Hysteria Lane. Clip first bolt of 'Barefoot and Poignant', then traverse left and up arete.

17 Sport 25m, 10 Unlink route
19 ** Barefoot and Poignant

Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades. As of June 2015 some bolt hangers were quite loose (bolts were finger tightened). Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".

23 Sport 20m, 10 Unlink route
21 * Fairies and Blutterfies

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. Only 24 if, as on the FA, you ignore the obvious line and climb a convoluted crux out left at mid height...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage.

24 Sport 20m, 9 Unlink route
22 ** Let it Burn!

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

23 Sport 25m, 9 Unlink route

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