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Description

An attractive, remote location at the top of the Victoria Range. Access is lengthy. Just left of where the track meets the cliff is a huge boulder with a cave beneath it. Left of the cave/boulder is a big wall bounded on its right by a gaping chasm, and on its left by a large chimney/corner. The climbs are described from right to left. Location: GR 097633

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Walk up the Victoria Range Track from Glenelg River Road to the top of the range, where it levels out. Pass the helipad, which is on the left of the track, and the Rhino's Horn, which is on the right, until the track turns sharply to the right (south-east). The Death March track joins in here. Continue along the Victoria Range Track for about 400 metres until 20 metres before the second creek. Enter the open scrub on the right (southern) side of the track and aim for the righthand side of a small outcrop within 100 metres. At this outcrop pick up a faint pad that heads roughly south-east to the nearest arete of World's End.

Can also be approached from the Death March track by continuing along the track for 500 metres until it turns due south for 100 metres and meets the Victoria Range Track.

Descent notes

Descent is down a boulder choke behind the Indecent Exposure buttress. This leads to a gully which is followed downhill until able to turn right beneath the lowest cliffs. A long slog back uphill beneath the cliffline leads back past Indecent Exposure to the cave/boulder. Descent from climbs near The Third Man can be made by lots of scrambling and often a final abseil from a large tree.

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Grade Route
2

Left of the cave/boulder where the pad meets the cliff is a big wall bounded on its right by a gaping chasm. Start at the gaping chasm. Primeval bridging and chimneying with sparse protection. Avoid the pterodactyl nesting season.

  1. 25m Scramble up into the chasm and chimney up outside the tree ferns. Move up and into a wide groove in the left wall. where a bridging stance can be taken.

  2. 27m Continue up the chasm to belay below the enormous chockstone. 3 30m Exit up the cave on the left to a gully. Climb a crack on the left wall and finish up easy jugs.

FA: Peter Watling, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1991

3
17 Lost Tribes Trad 18m

Start just left of Menlove Edwards Meets Conan Doyle. Follow the crack-line, step left at the top to pull through overhang. Belay here or step to the right. Scramble up and off or abseil.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1992

4
11 Iago Trad 65m

In the middle of the wall left of Lost Tribes is a leaning formation that faces left. The base of the corner is about 7 metres up.

  1. 37m 11 A thin crack leads diagonally right into the corner. Climb the lower third of the corner until a rising traverse can be made across the right wall to the arete which is followed to a good stance.

  2. 28m Move right off the ledge and climb the overhang via jagged crack. Jugs to the top.

FA: Peter Watling, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1991

5
17 Gibraltar Trad 17m

There is a huge block 60 metres downhill from Iago. On the NE side of the block is a steep slab. Step off the ground just left of centre of the face. Traverse right to the centre of the face and up. Allegedly adequate protection.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Mark Poustie & Andrew Lynch, 1993

6
16 Mur Y Niwl Trad 56m

The Wall of Mists. A superb traverse. Start at the base of the big corner left of Iago.

  1. 26m 16 Traverse left to the arete keeping to the top of the slab where it abuts the overhanging left wall of the corner.

  2. 30m The juggy arete above leaves you on top of the big pinnacle. It is advisable to stay roped for the step across the gap to the main cliff top.

FA: Andy Long, Gordon Talbett & Peter Watling, 1991

7

At the left end of the Mur Y Niwl slab is a short wall; start in the middle of this.The second and third pitches may be the same as Mur Y Niwl.

  1. 25m Bouldery up wall to break at the start of the slab. Pull onto slab and step left to arete. Up to large platform.

  2. 35m Step right and work your way through overhangs until rope drag stops progress.

  3. 15m Up steep wall on fragile holds then jump chasm.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Rob Pease, 1992

8

Sustained bucket-pulling, excellent rock and pro. Start from block under arete left of Escape From The Orcs. Up to first horizontal, traverse left a few metres to buckets and pull up to next horizontal. Step left and continue to left end of small ledge below smooth headwall. Finish directly and steeply above where smooth and featured rock meet. Rap off or finish up other routes.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2006

9

Steep on brilliant rock with outrageous holds. Start 15 metres right of Mordoc is a lovely bulging orange wall. Need to check this. Climb obvious left-leading diagonal until about the 40 metre mark, then head up diagonally right.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Wayne Maher, 1993

10
16 Mordoc Trad 25m

Left of Escape From The Orcs is an overhanging wall with a sandy patch beneath it. At the left end of this wall is a thin crack heading up and left.Follow the crack-line all the way to obvious thin ledge.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1992

11
21 M0 Guns And Greenbacks Trad 30m

Left of Mordoc is a wall that is approximately 50 metres wide and 70 metres high, split by a strong diagonal line running up left through a roof at 20 metres. Takes the major diagonal line all the way with 3 rests on the second pitch. The wall height and climb length don't really add up.

FA: Wayne Maher & Campbell Mercer, 1993

12

An early attempt on the diagonal line ended with a large fall. Start 20 metres to the left of the diagonal line. Up to left edge of roof. Continue straight up to join the diagonal line.

FA: Peter Treby, Neil Barr & Campbell Mercer, 1992

13
17 M1 Topographic Oceans Aid 70m

Start as for Guns and Greenbacks variant start.

  1. 35m Up to roof, pull through, traverse right to strong diagonal line.

  2. Step right and up to good sling. Straight up then tend right for line of least resistance. Loose rock at top.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Rob Pease, 1992

14
20 M0 One Armed Bandit Aid 55m

Left of the wall with Topographic Oceans is a large buttress with a sentry box and crack line on its arete. Start at the sentry box. One rest on each pitch.

  1. 30m 20 M0 Up the sentry box (fixed wire), through the roof, then up the obvious flake crack above to a large belay on the left.

  2. 25m Traverse right to the arete then up the crack. Step right onto upper wall and up.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Jerry Maddox, 1992

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