Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Granite Highlands 197 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 145.153557, -36.600427

1.1. Big Hill 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 145.432135, -36.829456

Unique Features And Strengths:

Granite crack climbing and bouldering close to Melbourne, no crowds, great views, short walk to access, easy to top rope.

Description:

Granite crag just over an hour from Melbourne, situated in a Flora reserve which runs along the highway. Good views north, nice rock and smattering of lines in the 17-24 grade. Short cliffline easy to toprope, highest route is only 25m, and features some interesting cracks on good qaulity granite that is kind on the paws; a good spot for beginners to granite cracks. Climbs are generally crack affairs, there is one bolted line at time of writing, but potential for more on some faces. Makes a good little daytrip from Melbourne if you are sick of the local stuff and don't want to drive to Gramps or Araps. A nice trip is to do Big Hill and nearby Tennerife. Its a lovely location with great views north, lots of wildlife and a few climbs that stay in the shade through summer.

Access Issues:

The land is a Flora Reserve, so it is legal to climb here and there is no need to ask permission - but respect the land and leave gates as you found them. There are some endangered wildflowers that grow amongst the crag boulders and cliffs (some can be found on the 'sandpaper terrace', as well as numerous wombats, echidnas and falcons, so be aware.

Approach:

This is a roadside crag just off the Hume Highway. From Melbourne, head north on the Hume. A few minutes after the Avenel roadhouse you will see Mt Tennerife on your right, keep heading north until You see a turnoff for Berry Lane. Turn right, then left onto the dirt road just off the highway. Before the top of the crest you will see a gate on the right, park here, and follow the fire trail up the hill to the north. The Southern Boulders are obviously on the southern side of the ridge, and the crag is on the northern face. Climbs are described from this approach.

To get to the better boulders you need to contour around the ridge and pick out the stuff with good potential.

Where To Stay:

Nearby towns Avenel, Longwood, Seymour and Euroa have hotels and other accomodation.

History:

In 1969, 'Trial' (6) and 'Coolu' (5) were established, as well as the other 'chimney', 'Tribulation' (14). Chris Baxter aided Dipsomania with his brother in 1970 and led the crag favourite 'Cut Throat Crack' with Keith Lockwood. In '74 those routes went free by Mike Law, who also happened to solo a second ascent of 'A smile from Julia', and soloing the FA of 'Lightstropper'. 1974 also saw visits from Nic Taylor, Reg Marron, Iain Sedgeman, Peter Watson and Andrew Bowman took most of the obvious lines. In 1975 Mike Law and Kim Carrigan returned to put of more comments from Julia. Things stayed quiet with focus moving to the bigger crag down the road at Mt Tenerife. In the late 1990's Pat McVeigh-Mcconnel and Darryl McConnel put up the nice beginner line 'Mosquito Corner', a rather difficult 10. Steve Wilson and Robin Holmes finished off the last of what was available in 2002 with 'Battle of the Bulge', the one star 'Lost for Words' and 'Gravel Rash' all on the sandpaper terrace. They also added a nice variant to the already enjoyable 'Tribulation' at 18.

1.1.1. Southern Boulders 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Boulders on southern face of ridge facing Mt Teneriffe. Follow fire trail to main crag and head right. There are hundereds of boulders stretching along the entire southern face of various qaulity.

1.2. Teneriffe 82 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.388571, -36.845580

Approach:© (willmonks)

Quite obvious to spot when driving along the Hume freeway, between Seymour and Euroa, southeast of the road.

1.2.1. Wing Wall 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.2. Moon Rock 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.3. White Hart Block 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4. Sparrow Slabs 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 145.391668, -36.848600

1.2.5. The Playground 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.2.6. Claudia Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.7. Wasp Gully 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.8. The Saddle 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.392638, -36.846660

1.2.9. Shaky Corner Tors 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.10. Vertigo Block 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.11. Blue Day Black Night Tors 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.12. Pigmy Twilight Gully 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.13. Blunt Rock 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.14. Eagle Rock 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.15. Harvest Rocks 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.16. Raptor Rocks 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.17. Cracked Rock 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.18. Immaculate Misconception Rock 0 routes in Area

1.2.19. Rubiks Cube 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.2.20. Castle Rock 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.382916, -36.842551

1.2.21. Split Rock Area 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.2.22. Lamb Rock 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.23. Layback Rock 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.24. Eagle Nest Rock 0 routes in Cliff

1.3. Wombat Rock 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 116.440268, -32.373922

1.4. Central Quarry 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5. Killeen's Hill 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6. The Rockery 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7. Rolling Stone Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 145.639237, -36.855472

1.8. Kobyboyne 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.376520, -37.064530

1.9. Pulpit Rock 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.10. South Blue Range (Andromeda) 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.11. The Bishop's Mitre 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

1.12. Strathbogie Ranges 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.761491, -36.885049

1.12.1. Rocky Ned 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.12.2. Prospect Hill 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.13. Warby Ranges 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.187546, -36.313804

1.13.1. Mt Meg 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.14. Warragul Rocks (Tallarook) 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 145.206863, -37.136154

Description:

Located in the Tallarook state forest. Granite slabs.

The crag doesn't get huge amount of love and features a lot of vegetation on some of the routes.

The area has had some problems with bogans dumping cars and other rubbish off the top of the cliffs (the access road drives right up to the top) so the landowner who controls access has asked that climbers contact him to let him know you are coming through.

The landowner wishes you to "Please ensure you contact me prior to accessing the rocks on the following number: Ron Milanovic mobile - 0413 402 744".