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Warragul Rocks (Tallarook)

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Description

Located on private land accessed by the Tallarook state forest. Granite slabs.

The crag doesn't get huge amount of love and features a lot of vegetation on some of the routes.

The area has had some problems with bogans dumping cars and other rubbish off the top of the cliffs (the access road drives right up to the top) so the landowner who controls access has asked that climbers contact him to let him know you are coming through.

The landowner wishes you to "Please ensure you contact me prior to accessing the rocks on the following number: Ron Milanovic mobile - 0413 402 744".

Routes

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Grade Route

Descend via track on left as you look out, or rap using any of the numerous anchor carrots or RB's across the top.

Northern arete of Vernon's block.

FA: Martin Lama & Steve Chapman, 2001

Face of the big boulder right of descent gully at the far right end of the upper tier.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1986

First climb along the terrace if descending from the left as you face out. Possible medium cam between 2nd & 3rd.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2001

Start as for The Magic Shroom. Move left after the 1st FH. Desperate mantle to finish.

FA: Martin Lama, 2001

Black left-facing corner 5m left of The Magic Shroom. 3 FH's and overhang.

FA: Steve Chapman, Justin Seabourne, Nev Hendo & Rob Booth, 2001

Could be 28 free. Start off boulder 10m left of Bourbon And Coke. Overhanging start on incut crimps.

FA: Steve Chapman & Martin Lama, 2002

8m right of Champagne And Novocaine. Thin face to FH, then head out through dodgy looking roof flake, and up. Watch where the belayer stands!

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2001

Black right-facing arete. Hard moves past two bolts, more hard moves and two more bolts.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1986

Starts up BWBB to the overlap, traverses right to flake, then up final crack as for Piston Stoned.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2002

Start up Champagne and Novocaine to the overlap then climb rightwards past Boys Will Be Boys.

FA: Russell Crow & Terry Tremble, 1983

Stripy, dished wall and finger-crack halfway along upper tier. One carrot on first half to stop ground fall. Good small pro for top crack.

FA: Craig Nottle, Mick Hampton & Russell Crow, 1983

Old project from early 2000's. Open project.

FA:

12m left of Champagne And Novocaine. Painfully thin and deceptively difficult climbing past 3 FH's.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2001

Corner 15m left of 'Champagne and Novocaine'. Jam & bridge to ledge and up.

FA: Seamus Hyland, 1982

Layback to the top.

Variant climbs the crack then traversed right to the nose. Jason Scott (18) Circa 86-88

FA: Steve Butcher & David Butcher, 1986

4m left of BBBAB. Climb the brushed slab above the belay bolts for SCDR.

FA: Olga McAuliffe & Geoff Butcher, 1987

Line of bolts left of 'Afternoon Delight'. 4 FH. 2 carrot anchor.

FA: Steve Toal & Paula Toal, 2014

Wall R of Trail Bike Yobbo Ride on Down. Purple cam between 1st and 2nd bolts.

FA: Geoff Butcher (solo), 1986

2m left of Spinal Tap.

FA: Paula Toal & Steve Toal, 2014

Right of Platonic. Small edges past three bolts. 2 carrot anchor.

FA: Michael Hampton & Ken Payne, 1983

Left one of four sport routes on the short slab on far left.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Butcher, Trish Bertozzi & David Butcher, 2 Nov 2018

Can descend via either end of the cliff, or rap from the Upper Tier.

First feature met on the right-hand descent route, as viewed looking out. Climb the crack, past old piton if still there. Trend left into shallow line leading to the overhanging block.

FA: Ceri Law, 1979

Middle of the obvious rib via small offwidth crack at start. Finish up the face above the break.

FA: FTA Keith Egerton, 1983

Thin crack in the right wall right of Fringe Benefit. Up to the horizontal break, up past two BR to the top.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Hampton & Phil Wilkins, 1983

Start 4m of FR. Very hard start and a run out finish. 1 FH, 3 BR & large cam in the break. Wire may be needed for one of the BR?

FA: FAA Dave Barnes & Luke Haley, 1998

FFA: Steve Chapman, 2000

Corner-crack with a scary finish on L arete.

FA: Seamus Hyland & Michael Hampton, 1982

Starts 2m left of False Yawn.

FA: Alister Robertson, 2005

Face-climbing. Up to the first BR, move to the left of the crack and up.

FA: Craig Nottle & Michael Hampton, 1983

5m right of False Yawn. BR's and RB. Bolted early 00's.

Middle of black slab L of Stolen Car Descent Route, finishes at the flake. Thee BRs, 1 PR. Descent is down terraces to L.

FA: Michael Hampton & Keith Egerton, 1983

Climb the creaky flakes 1.5m left of SCDR until you can traverse right (crux) to the big jug on the little arete just below the first bolt. (No pro.) Surely been done before.

  1. 30m Climb flake/corner above car bodies past a FH and a carrot bolt to ledge and 2BB.

  2. 35m Left and up past 4 FHS, to slab with vertical crack and belay at base of Upper Tier DBB.

FA: Michael Hampton & Dave Lia, 1983

We had fun on this. Stay off SCDR and it makes for a new experience. The BR's have been replaced.

FA: David Barnes

The climbn starts left of LGL. There is a anchor after first pitch. I liked it and it is worth the effort..

FA: David Barnes & Luke (Someone), 1998

  1. 18m Line of BRs 20m right of SCDR. BB at first belay.

  2. 32m Start a few metres right of belay, up 8m then move back left in-line with belay. Up past two more bolts and a tricky finish.

FA: Seamus Hyland & Michael Hampton, 1982

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sun 19 Mar
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