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Table of contents

1. Ben Boyd National Park 74 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.017953, -37.230051

1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay 31 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.018808, -37.212640

Unique Features And Strengths:©

The rock is a form of volcanic sandstone with fantastic frictional properties. Some of the rock looks friable but is surprisingly strong. Jointing and quartz intrusions make great natural pro.


Bittangabee Sea Cliffs North is a compact climbing area located within the Ben Boyd National Park, 300k south-east from Canberra near the NSW and Victorian state border.

The rock is a form of volcanic sandstone with fantastic frictional properties. Some of the rock looks friable but is surprisingly strong. Considerable jointing and quartz intrusions make for great natural pro.

The cliff is approximately 250 metres in length and ranges from 12-15 metres high.

The rock is heavily featured, quite steep with some small roofs and overhanging faces. The area has great potential for development as a challenging, if short trad climbing area. The use of bolts in this area is not considered appropriate as the cliff is located within the Ben Boyd National Park. Any harder routes can be protected on abseil or top roped. This is an ideal area for beginners with a multitude of easier climbs. The area is a beautiful spot and should be preserved as such.

Climbs are described south to north or looking at the cliff with your back to the ocean left to right. Descend at either end of the cliff.


Take Monaro Highway to Cooma, follow the Snowy Mountains Highway towards Bega via Brown Mountain. Turn right towards Candelo and head for Eden. In Eden turn right to Orbost, travel about 17kms and turn left onto Edrom Road. Turn right onto Green Cape Road after 6km. Turn Right at the T Intersection (8 km). Turn left at 6km on to the Bittangabee Bay road. Total trip time is around 3½ hours from Canberra.

Access the climbing area by walking north from the campsite on the Bittangabee – Saltwater creek walking trail. You have two options to access the trail, either via the beach or ‘Ruins Track’. 30 minutes of easy walking gets you to the top of the crag. The beach track starts on the north side of the camping ground turning loop. The ‘Ruins Track’ starts on the northern side of the day trippers’ barbeque area with both tracks joining on the southern side of Bittangabee Creek.

Walk along Bittangabee Creek in a westerly direction on a rather indistinct track, cross at the well worn rock bar and follow the more defined track through the Bell Bird forest. After cresting the ridge the flora changes to low wind beaten scrub. The track continues through impenetrable Ti tree before reaching a large exposed rock platform up to 100m wide at points.

Access can be gained at either end of the cliff by an easy scramble down onto the rock ledge immediately above the ocean. Profuse jointing at the top allows for solid top anchors to be set. Bring a few long slings or an extra rope and plenty of SLCD’s or hexcentrics. During heavy seas or king tides access to the climbs may well be impossible with the entire area exposed to southerly winds.

Where To Stay:©

There are plenty of choices for accommodation in the region. You can camp at Bittangabee Bay which has pit toilets, gas barbeques and a freshwater creek. A variety of campsites, van parks or motels are available in the region. Eden is close and has pubs for that quenching ale if you forgot to take water to the crag. This area is hardly a day trip but good for a couple of days. Check with the met office to avoid disappointment. Park entry fees of $7.00 a day per vehicle and camping fees of $5.00 per adult apply. You will need to book ahead by ringing the Merimbula rangers on Ph. 02 6495 5001 or Fax: 02 6495 5055


It is important to remember this is a National Park and sensitive to human activities. Whilst little vegetation grows on the cliff itself, be sensitive to the local flora and fauna. Bolts are unnecessary and chalk should be used sparingly as the rock has exceptional frictional properties and barely needs any. Do not camp at the crag and take out all you waste, do not dispose of it in the ocean or surrounds.


Information here is based on a guide put together for the CCA by David Cameron and Rick Carey. Rick is responsible for many of the first ascents in this area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kylies Psyche

(The 1st and most southerly climb) Up the overhanging corner below a roof on jugs, straight up the easiest line to orange rock bay and top.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

17 Trad
2 Meaning of Life

Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall.

FA: Rick Carey, Kylie Chomatek, 2001

18 Trad 12m
3 A Quick Prick From Rick

Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro.

FA: Rick Carey, Kylie Chomatek, 2001

17 Trad 12m
4 * Newborns on Holidays

Crack left of Flight 11

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

17 Trad
5 Flight 11

Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

20 Trad
6 Zoot

Solo up onto top of large block and white flake onto block at the top, easy quick access to top.

FA: Rick Carey, 2001

10 Trad
7 * Underneath Work

Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

21 Trad
8 * Osama's Been Rooted

The flake crack 1 meter right of AQPFR. Up the flake then straight to top on monster jugs.

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

13 Trad 12m
9 Lets Go To Kabul

Start 2m right of OBR at overlapping pocket, up flake into corner on to top.

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

14 Trad
10 Candyman

FA: Justin Ryan

22 Trad
11 * Third Time Looser

Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots.

FA: Dave Cameron, 2005

18 Trad
12 *** Shits 6:30AM

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top.

FA: Dave Cameron, 2005

23 Trad
13 Aero Guard Chimney

Into and up the obvious damp, dark chimney, can be wet and slippery. Beware of mozzies with chainsaws.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

15 Trad
14 * Up, Up & Away

Arete between AGC and NNA. Campus start on jugs then straight up arete.

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

16 Trad
15 Not Nostradamus Again

Climb up the juggy arête and crack just around to the right of AC, pumpy undercut start, up on jugs to large ledge, up the short wall above to the top.

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

18 Trad
16 ** Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood

3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

17 Trad 12m
17 Life of Brian

Left of the two cracks on wall, up easily to cam placement, continue up on good holds and more cams, straight up obvious line over block to top.

FA: Rik Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

16 Trad
18 Lyelle Dares

Start at the bottom of the right hand crack easily to good wire placement, straight up obvious line using cams to top.

FA: Rick Cameron & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

15 Trad
19 Cum on the Rocks

Start on top of triangular shaped ledge, up the corner on good holds, great pro, continue up corner to the top.

FA: Rick Cameron & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

14 Trad
20 Jealous Tart

Start easily up the diagonal crack behind the flake, onto ledge then up purple wall straight above (crux) protect with large cam.

FA: Kylie Chomatek & Rick Carey, 2001

16 Trad
21 * Beautiful Bridget

Up the line of shallow pods/pockets passing a two finger pocket en route – to the left of Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

18 Trad
22 Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy

Step across the water onto the arête, head on up, cams in horizontals. Arrange gear under small roof and pull through to glory. Alternate starts possible.

FA: David Cameron, Richard Morley & Mal MacDonnell, 2005

16 Trad
23 * Smashing!

The wall a couple of metres left of Sedition

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

17 Trad
24 *** Sedition

Step across the water onto the face and place gear as you see fit (Don’t comment on the government). Trend left (of the political landscape) over the bulging (capitalists pigs) and place cams in the sickle shaped crack. Undermine the status quo by using underhanded techniques in the crack, then head straight up the middle of the road on good crimpers. Easier than it looks, easier said than done.

FA: David Cameron, Mal MacDonnell & Richard Morely, 2005

19 Trad
25 Beez Neez

South around the corner from Beer Battered Rock is an obvious crack 2m from the arête. A short climb with tricky moves at 4m. Has a nice top out and good protection.

FA: Alan Bainbridge & Mal MacDonnell, 2005

11 Trad 10m
26 6 Beers Before Midnight

Mals description to go here, problem is he had 6 Beers before Midnight and can’t remember anything. Jug Haul/Crimp/Slap Dynamically/Layback/Mantle/Smear/Scum up the easy/tricky/difficult start, follow the obvious/not so obvious line/seam/slab/crack/flake of jugs/crimps/slopers/heucos to the crux. Finish as start.

FA: Mal MacDonnell & Alan Bainbridge, 2005

11 Trad
27 Pub Crawl

Start at the white splattered rock a few metres right of '6 beers before midnight' and traverse left for about 17m. Follow the lowest dyke for the first half, under-cling through the small overlap on the corner (crux), and stay on low holds well below the dyke for the second section, finishing at the incut corner.

V3 Boulder
28 Mark's Not Dead, He's Just Pining For The Fjords

Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

18 Trad
29 *** Orange Ruffy

Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

22 Trad
30 *** Zymurgy

Very bouldery start – landing is good. Up to thin horizontal slot, place 0.5 cam after you reach the next holds. Thin moves follow on equally thin gear, bloody brilliant.

FA: Dave Cameron, 2005

21 Trad
31 Sept the Eleventh

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

20 Trad

1.2. City Rocks 17 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.023693, -37.257136

Unique Features And Strengths:

Excellent compact sandstone sea cliffing a long way from civilization. All day shade.


This is a compact sandstone crag that is English gritstone like in appearance and climbing style. The climbs follow strong natural lines, using mostly trad gear. The look and feel to the cliff is a compact and darker version of Point Perp, but with generally better rock quality. Expect to see seals and dolphins playing off the rocks and fish swarming in the kelp. Crabs scuttle at your belayers feet whilst anemones cling to the rock pools along the base of the crag. There is great snorkelling straight off the rocks if the swell is low. There is evidence of huge waves, with hunks of wood wedged into cracks 10m off the ground. You will always have the place to yourself.

Every route is good and is worth doing. I refuse to give anything three stars, thus there are routes with no stars in this guide. Zero star routes are still recommend, but will usually not be as sustained as the higher starred routes. Generally the rock quality is superb, a fine grained sandstone which forms fluted cracks and pockets. Most routes have had one ascent, so make sure you check fragile looking holds before committing to deliberate run-outs. Because the cliff faces south it gets very little direct sun and needs a dry windy day to recover from heavy rain or big swells. We found that a wet cliff can dry out in a few hours if the wind is blowing just right. High humidity and a still day can also make the rock horribly greasy. This is not a sport climbing area. Every route in this guide requires trad gear, and most require a full rack, including micro cams. Climbers need to be proficient in placing fiddly gear to really enjoy this area. Offset wires are very useful for the flared cracks. Bolts have been used sparingly and only when no good trad gear is nearby. All bolts are stainless steel glueins. This is a seacliff with high levels of sea spray. Expansion bolts and cad plated crap are not to be used. Glue-in carrot bolts are located along the cliff top, usually well back from the edge. Most routes top-out for a belay off these bolts. This is to minimise the amount of bolts to maintain a low impact. Please respect this ethic and do not add lower-off bolts. Please always anchor or rap off a minimum of two of these bolts at all times. Some routes can be supplemented by trad anchors or tie off the bushes about 15m back from the edge with a long rope. There is still much unclimbed rock in the area. Most of it is choss. Please avoid establishing routes left of Storm Front Crack. The rock quality is much worse then the main wall, and it is much more visible to tourists and rangers. Lets keep this ‘choss sanctuary’ pristine.

Access Issues:

It's a National Park. Keep a low profile.


How do you get there? Locate Eden in far south coast of NSW. Get map to Ben Boyd National Park. Drive 550km aprox from Melbourne to City Rock day use car park. Follow marked tourist track to water. Look left – that’s the cliffs. The left side is sandy rubbish, the middle is where all the action is. Scramble up to top of cliff on left side. Follow tunnel through thick coastal vegetation and cut across to top of cliff as soon as possible. Walk along cliff edge (with care!) for a few hundred metres to locate large rock cairn on large open rock platform. Salty The Seal is directly below this rock cairn. Look for hidden belay BRs about 4m back from cliff edge. Storm Front Crack is located about 50m back westwards from the rock cairn (the way you just came from). All routes require fixing a rope and rapping in. Bring a spare rope and a rope protector for this purpose.

Where To Stay:

Great camping in the National Park!


Mixed climbing. Bolts only where there is no trad.


Developed by Neil Monteith, Jono Schmidt and Adam Demmert over two trips in 2007.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Storm Front Crack

A strong trad line that looks much worse than it is. Locate rock wedged in tree about 2m back from edge. The crack is visible splitting the cliff edge. Rap from tree into small belay ledge 5m above swell. Stem up v-corner then over bulge. Easily up wide crack then launch up the sustained handcrack to top.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

19 Trad 17m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 ** Invasion Day

Best trad line on the cliff. Thin seam splitting the orange and grey rock 10m around the left of Salty The Seal. You can see this route from the fishing ledges back at the tourist track. Locate the double BR bolts at the top of the route near the cliff edge. Thin crack to start leads into small left facing cornerette. Great gear and great climbing. Double BR belay.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

18 Trad 19m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Arete (project)

Partially toproped (upper half only)

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

25 Trad 18m
4 * Police Cruiser

Starts at major arête, Traverse diagonally up and right across giant crystals to break through right side of big roof. Com- mitting finish up slabby runnels.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

19 Trad 20m
5 ** Salty The Seal

Good line and great climbing. The easiest way up this section of wall. Start right of the overhung wall and traverse across left on amazing quartz dyke to reach small ledge. Straight up the thin crack above to large left facing corner conclusion.

FFA: Jono Schmidt & Neil Monteith, 2007

17 Trad 21m
6 ** Crystalline

Start as for Salty The Seal but go straight up to steepness (UB). Swing left and up to big undercling heuco and upwards. Big scoops and bizarre crux. Sustained. Bring some small/ medium cams and some slings for the threads above the last bolt. 4 u-bolts.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

23 Mixed 18m, 4
7 ** Barnacle Breath

Tenuous pocketed crux up blank looking corner. Almost a sport route. Start 3m right of Crystalline. Wander up the nice juggy start then enter the overhung blank corner. Quickly exit right and up pockets then step back into corner. 5 U-bolts. Fist crack size cams to finish.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

24 Mixed 18m, 5
8 ** Rolling Swells

A strong natural line straight up the guts of the main wall. 3m right of Barnacle Breath at undercut crack. Up crack to steep corner, stem this (RB) then up crack to juggy conclusion. Sin- gle U bolt lower-off. Don’t try and top out the grass up above. Bring a full rack.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

21 Mixed 18m, 1
9 ** Humidifier

Conditions were less than ideal on the first ascent. Starts 2m right of RS. Up delicate face to under left side of big roof, monkey out this on jugs then tough lip pull to mantle onto ledge. Stem up open corner to juggy conclusion. 4 u-bolts + medium trad.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

23 Mixed 20m, 4
10 Possible Project

Big roof. Looked at by Neil but no bolts (yet).

Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Skiving Sea Monkeys

A big dark line, which tends to stay wet after heavy rain. Starts 2m right of major blank corner and 6m right of Humidifier. Up unlikely thin face seam (u-bolt) and onto ledge. Swing left over undercut and up left into lift shaft (UB). Stem up this shaft to top. Harder if you are short. Full rack required to #4 SLCD.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

21 Mixed 20m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 * Performing Dolphins

A bunch of Japanese tourists filmed the equipping of this route. The exposed rounded prow with bouldery gritstone start. Located 6m right of SSM. Edge up start (2 u-bolts) onto ledge. Up face above (UB) to committing finish move. Medi- um cams/wires required.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

20 Mixed 19m, 3
13 * Shark Bait

RP special. Daunting line with just enough (small) gear. Starts 6m right of PD, and 2m left of major blank corner. Climb up short wall to ledge. Stem up short closed corner, step right and up to big break (#5 cam). Edge up face above (RPs and tiny cams) to finally reach a good ledge and gear. Easily to top.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

20 Trad 18m
14 Third Time Lucky

Committing trad climbing split by three ledges. Starts 3m right of major corner at small right facing corner. Spaced small gear and a long reach move at about 7m. Finish up leftwards into small right facing corner flake. Take standard rack plus micro cams (Black Aliens).

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

19 Trad 17m 91
15 ** Layback And Swim To England

Sustained flakes and one of the best routes here. Continuous rain showers thwarted attempts. Starts 3m right of TTL below open book corner. Stem up this (UB) to horizontal break. Lay- back up wonderful flakes to top.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

18 Mixed 15m, 1
16 * Sailing The Seas Of Green

Sustained pod crack climbing with a bit of choss to finish. Starts 2m right of LASTE. Bouldery start to get to first UB. 3 u-bolts. Bring a standard rack to supplement bolts.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

22 Mixed 15m, 3
17 * Wedgewood

Major trad excursion through some unlikely territory. A piece of driftwood is wedged in the horizontal halfway up this route! Starts 4m right of chimney slot, at undercut wall. Boulder through roof and then work your way up to easiest break in roof at third height. Swing left and up heucos to top. Bring cams up to #5.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

18 Trad 16m

1.3. Pulpit Rock 26 routes in Cliff

Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.035112, -37.240309

1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side 22 routes in Crag

Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.021565, -37.242544

Description:© (nmonteith)

Pulpit Rock is a 100m wide, 9-10m high sea cliff of Grampians-like sandstone in Ben Boyd National Park, N.S.W. (580km from Melbourne). It is approx 48km by road north of 'Victoria' on the seaward side of Green Cape near Disaster Bay. This is about 35km by road south of Eden, N.S.W. and Twofold Bay. 'Pulpit' Rock is one of many 5-25m sea cliffs on Green Cape Peninsula that are accessible by unsealed roads and scenic trails. Most sea cliffs are vertical with clean well-defined lines, flaring cracks and bizarre weathering patterns typical of coastal exposure. Considerable potential exists for

technical short routes. 'Pulpit' Rock has been climbed before, oxidised carabiners were found in a dead tree at the back of the upper terrace,

apparently for belaying. Knowing this, our intent here is to point out a place worthy of a visit during a trip between 'Melbourne' and Sydney. 'Pulpit'

Rock is frequented by land based game fishermen, who consider climbers as something of a novelty. 'Pulpit' Rock faces east and is well protected from

the westerly winds which, for secret reasons, is when the fisherman turn up to float their live bait seaward on lines attached to balloons. Lines are

driven by the wind for about a half kilometre out to sea, to where large gamefish (Marlin, Yellowfin Tuna, etc) surface to feed. This is where the

eastern continental shelf-edge drops dramatically to the bottom of the Tasman Sea. Winds from the Tasman are cold so to escape an onshore wind go

over to City Rock on Disaster Bay (approximately 4km from 'Pulpit' Rock). The cliff there appears very steep to overhanging and is about a one minute walk from the car park. Rick Carey, Mike Law-Smith and Zac Zaharias and others lead all the top roped climbs described in the previous edition of the Green Cape Sea Cliffs guide around 2004 as well as adding many more.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Melbourne' take the Princes 'Highway' toward south eastern N.S.W. (550 km). At approx 35km north of Genoa, Vic (18km south of Eden, N.S.W.) turn right into Edrom Road (sealed; signposted), which provides access both to a Pulp Mill on Twofold Bay and to Green Cape in Ben Boyd NP, where 'Pulpit' Rock is located. Petrol and basic provisions are at Kiah, another 5km further along the Princess 'Highway'. After 6km on Edrom

Road, turn right onto Green Cape Road (unsealed) and go 18km to the 'Pulpit' Rock turnoff on the left. On the way, you will pass signposted roads on the left to Saltwater Creek Campground (8km) and Bittangabee Campground (15km) and on the right to City Rock (17km; no camping). At 18km 'Pulpit' Rock Road turns left (signposted). The main road ends 3km further at Green Cape lighthouse. The final 1.5km of the track to 'Pulpit' Rock leads to a car park among Ti trees, just above the climbs. Walk east 100m toward the sound of crashing

waves. The area can be reached from Canberra by heading to Cooma and then down to Eden, Drive south from Eden about 17km and turn left on Edrom Road, follow the signs to Greencape Lighthouse. Just prior to reaching the lighthouse a sign will direct you right 700m to City Rock, or continue towards Greencape a short distance and a

left turn that will take you 1.6km to 'Pulpit' Rock. City Rock involves a short walk to access the climbing areas. 'Pulpit' rock is more easily accessed from the car just walk down a few steps onto a large rock platform and amphitheatre.

If you enjoy fishing bring your tackle, there are heaps of large fish to be had. On the first trip, during a break in the climbing the Rick Carey caught 6 good-sized fish in 20 min using a hand spear and snorkel, much to the disgust of several line fishermen watching on. In addition to the edible wildlife there are some large predators in

the deep water. Whilst fishing we observed a large leopard seal slicing up the large schools of fish, this was a little unnerving. The fishermen spoke of large aggressive bronze whaler and mako sharks being common in the area, so keep a look out especially if you are in the water with injured fish. Equipment - The area lends itself to natural protection, most routes are capable of being well protected using a variety of small wires and RP's. 'Small' to medium cams are particularly useful so don't forget them. Most routes are short 12-15 meters so a big wall rack is not required. Anchors - As yet top roping and rap chains are not in place, so you will need to set your own belays using the trees and cracks at the top. Most are well back from the edge requiring extensions using ropes or long slings. Ensure you

back everything up until such time more permanent anchors are in situ. CLIMBS - A trail to the base of 'Pulpit' Rock leads eastward from the car park to a trail on an 'arête'. The path leads down to a lower terrace with a steep back wall (the main face). An alternate, poorly defined trail descends southeast

through scrub to an upper terrace that's tilted gently seaward. For top-roping here, anchor placement is difficult so, unless bolt anchors are added a second rope is needed to reach scrub at the back of the terrace, The right side of the cliff (facing it) provides a quick descent route from the upper terrace (see sketch) through vegetated

sandy rubble. The 'Pulpit' Rock main face, as it is approached from below, begins on the right with a pocketed, clean, sandstone wall with limited pro and dirty exits. Potential here is for bolt protection and ice-axe exits. The centre section is best with steep walls, shallow corners, and sinuous left-leaning cracks with overhanging roofs. Around

left, large blocky faces alternate with mostly vertical, 90-degree corners. Because the back corners are sheltered, people use it for relief of body-functions. Unless the platform is clean from storm waves, approach this area from upwind with caution.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Pull Pit

Seems like the same route as A Short History Of The World. Towards the left end of the face is a large left leaning , freestanding block. Jam the flaring crack, chimney to the top, and then scramble to terrace.

FA: Gary Rankin (solo), 1991

10 Trad 10m
2 Fish-N-Shits 13 Unknown 10m
3 Fish-N-Shits Alternate Start 16 Unknown 10m
4 * Joel's Bonito Caper 16 Unknown 10m
5 ** Wayback Layback 17 Unknown 10m
6 Bindun

Start as for Fisherman's Basket but swing rigth onto the blocky face an dup this to top. Protection looks marginal. Top-rope only!

FA: Gary Rankin (top-rope only), 1991

15 Trad 10m
7 * Dan Would Be Proud

Very Cataract Gorge. Short sharp bouldery arête with two FHs and single bolt lower-off around left from 'Bindun' in small dark chasm.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

22 Sport 8m
8 Ticks And Maggots

The left-hand crack of the first recessed corner. Up (ode to Bittangabee)

FA: Gary Rankin, 1991

9 Trad 10m
9 Hydraulic Flush

The inside corner 7m left of 'Ticks And Maggots'.

FA: Gary Rankin, Joel Rankin, Cathy Fraser & John Murphy, 1992

7 Trad 10m
10 ** Fill my Pockets

Breaks out right from Cenotaph Corner and up pocketed face. Start as for cenotaph corner down under, swing right on large jug, clip the first bolt with the hanger then straight up using the pockets someone just put there for this climb, pass 2 carrots to the top. FA: Rick Carey & Mark Tonkin - 2006-10-00

FA: Rick Carey & Mark Tonkin, 2006

21 Sport 10m
11 ** Guns Germs and Steel

Left ward lay back up sharp arête to flake, smear to top.

FA: Matt Rogerson, Rick Carey, Solo, 2000

17 Trad 8m
12 * White horses

Start easily on jugs up the face past 2 bolts balancey moves to gain small pockets. Trend right to horizontal break holds then up to good holds at 2nd bolt finish straight up using small wires or cams for protection.

Start: Straight up the face 3 meters left of fisherman's dunny.

FA: Rick Carey & Nathan Roberts, 2006

20 Trad 10m
13 ** Fishermans Dunny

Very thin corner with 3 badly rusted FHs around back of GGS block in the recessed bay, follow your nose and you are there. Interesting technical moves past bolts then easily up to anchor brackets.

FA: Rick Carey, Saul Hilton, 2005

22 Sport 10m
14 Left Wall Down Under

Arête to the left of CCDU.

FA: Rick Carey, Mike Law Smith, 2004

20 Trad 10m
15 Fisherman’s Basket aka Wayback Layback

Right of the low sloping roofs, in the middle of the main face, is a sinuous left leaning crack which begins on a step at the base of the cliff. jam up this left ward sloping jam crack.

FA: Mike Law Smith, Rick Carey, 2004

20 Trad 9m
16 Shark Bait

Start as for fisherman's dunny, step left on break, then straight up the face past two bolts on thin holds to natural break, straight up to finish.

FA: Rick Carey Rope solo, 2006

21 Trad 10m
17 *** Sandy Hunt

Open book corner capped by a small roof crux, caution loose looking block on left.

FA: Rick Carey, Matt Rogerson, Zac Zaharias, 2004

21 R Trad 10m
18 Fisherman’s Grief

Leftward sloping finger crack at back of embayment.

FA: Mike Law Smith, Rick Carey, 2004

20 Trad 8m
19 Sea Eagles

Diagonal crack left of FB. Take big cams.

FA: Matt Rogerson, Zac Zaharias, 2004

20 Trad 9m
20 Short History of the World

Grovel up the chimney left of FG.

FA: Matt Rogerson, Rick Carey, 2004

12 Trad 8m
21 New Balance

Directly up, balancey with RP's to protect initial moves up to hand crack, straight up to ledge then top.

FA: Rick Carey, Mike Law Smith, 2004

21 Trad 8m
22 Cenotaph Corner Down Under

Big corner 5m around to the left of the Mystery Carrot routes.

FA: Rick Carey, Mike Law Smith, 2004

17 Trad 9m

1.3.2. Pulpit Rock - South Side Upper 4 routes in Crag

Trad and Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Wanted In Seven Countries

FA: Neil

17 Trad 8m
2 * Pet Porpoise Pool 16 Trad 9m
3 Euro Tan 16 Trad 7m
4 * Porpoise Prow V0 Boulder

1.3.3. Pulpit Rock - South Side Lower 0 routes in Crag

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
7 Hydraulic Flush Trad 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
9 Ticks And Maggots Trad 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
10 Zoot Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
The Pull Pit Trad 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
11 6 Beers Before Midnight Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Beez Neez Trad 10m 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
12 Short History of the World Trad 8m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
13 * Osama's Been Rooted Trad 12m 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Fish-N-Shits Unknown 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
14 Cum on the Rocks Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Lets Go To Kabul Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
15 Aero Guard Chimney Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Lyelle Dares Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Bindun Trad 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
V0 * Porpoise Prow Boulder 1.3.2. Pulpit Rock - South Side Upper
16 Jealous Tart Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Life of Brian Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
* Up, Up & Away Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Fish-N-Shits Alternate Start Unknown 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
* Joel's Bonito Caper Unknown 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
Euro Tan Trad 7m 1.3.2. Pulpit Rock - South Side Upper
* Pet Porpoise Pool Trad 9m 1.3.2. Pulpit Rock - South Side Upper
17 A Quick Prick From Rick Trad 12m 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Kylies Psyche Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
* Newborns on Holidays Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
* Smashing! Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
** Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood Trad 12m 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
** Salty The Seal Trad 21m 1.2. City Rocks
Cenotaph Corner Down Under Trad 9m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
** Guns Germs and Steel Trad 8m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
** Wayback Layback Unknown 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
* Wanted In Seven Countries Trad 8m 1.3.2. Pulpit Rock - South Side Upper
18 * Beautiful Bridget Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Mark's Not Dead, He's Just Pining For The Fjords Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Meaning of Life Trad 12m 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Not Nostradamus Again Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
* Third Time Looser Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
** Invasion Day Trad 19m 1.2. City Rocks
** Layback And Swim To England Mixed 15m, 1 1.2. City Rocks
* Wedgewood Trad 16m 1.2. City Rocks
19 *** Sedition Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
* Police Cruiser Trad 20m 1.2. City Rocks
* Storm Front Crack Trad 17m 1.2. City Rocks
Third Time Lucky Trad 17m 91 1.2. City Rocks
20 Flight 11 Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
Sept the Eleventh Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
* Performing Dolphins Mixed 19m, 3 1.2. City Rocks
* Shark Bait Trad 18m 1.2. City Rocks
Fisherman’s Basket aka Wayback Layback Trad 9m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
Fisherman’s Grief Trad 8m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
Left Wall Down Under Trad 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
Sea Eagles Trad 9m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
* White horses Trad 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
21 * Underneath Work Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
*** Zymurgy Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
** Rolling Swells Mixed 18m, 1 1.2. City Rocks
* Skiving Sea Monkeys Mixed 20m, 2 1.2. City Rocks
** Fill my Pockets Sport 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
New Balance Trad 8m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
Shark Bait Trad 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
21 R *** Sandy Hunt Trad 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
22 Candyman Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
*** Orange Ruffy Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
* Sailing The Seas Of Green Mixed 15m, 3 1.2. City Rocks
* Dan Would Be Proud Sport 8m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
** Fishermans Dunny Sport 10m 1.3.1. Pulpit Rock - North Side
V3 Pub Crawl Boulder 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
23 *** Shits 6:30AM Trad 1.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
** Crystalline Mixed 18m, 4 1.2. City Rocks
** Humidifier Mixed 20m, 4 1.2. City Rocks
24 ** Barnacle Breath Mixed 18m, 5 1.2. City Rocks
25 * Arete (project) Trad 18m 1.2. City Rocks
? Possible Project Trad 18m 1.2. City Rocks