Region Guide for Australia

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Australia 47,878 routes in Region

6435217

1 Victoria, 2 New South Wales and ACT, 3 Western Australia, 4 Queensland, 5 South Australia, 6 Northern Territory, 7 Tasmania

seasonality

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 134.261995, -25.534414

Description:

I love a sunburnt country, A land of sweeping plains,

Of ragged mountain ranges, Of droughts and flooding rains.

I love her far horizons, I love her jewel-sea,

Her beauty and her terror – The wide brown land for me!

1.1. Victoria 13,879 routes in Region

123456

1 North West, 2 Granite Highlands, 3 North East, 4 Melbourne and Surrounds, 5 Gippsland, 6 South West

Summary:

Trad,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.384125, -36.973754

1.1.1. North West 9,842 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.427950, -35.866651

1.1.2. Granite Highlands 208 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 145.153557, -36.600427

1.1.3. North East 1,193 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 147.150036, -36.682385

1.1.4. Melbourne and Surrounds 2,401 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.703679, -37.796807

1.1.5. Gippsland 203 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 147.407567, -37.924849

1.1.6. South West 32 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Trad

Long/Lat: 142.445193, -38.024027

1.2. New South Wales and ACT 19,975 routes in Region

119411162123158514691317107

1 Northern Rivers, 2 Mid North Coast, 3 Hunter Valley, 4 Northern Tablelands, 5 Sydney Metropolitan, 6 Illawarra, 7 South Coast, 8 Central Tablelands, 9 Southern Tablelands, 10 Snowy Mountains, 11 Northwest Slopes and plains, 12 Central Western Slope and Plains, 13 South West Slopes, 14 Riverina, 15 Lower Western, 16 Upper Western, 17 Australian Capital Territory, 19 Gibraltar Rock

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 147.126996, -32.174898

1.2.1. Northern Rivers 119 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.073030, -28.963259

1.2.2. Mid North Coast 488 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.568243, -31.149465

1.2.3. Hunter Valley 2,342 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.367763, -32.402613

Description:

This region covers from swansea to the south, Bulahdelah to the north and Watagans to the west. It also covers the Port Stephens region. The Watagans is made up of numerous sandstone cliffs in the National park. Port Stephens off some fantastic sea cliff climbing on quality granite like rock. Bulahdelah is made up of an Alum rock. This rock is very stong and lends itself to some interesting featured climbing, induding the famous cave. For more information see the Hunter Valley Rockclimbing guidebook.

1.2.4. Northern Tablelands 1,725 routes in Region

Summary:

Boulder,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.765129, -29.951277

1.2.5. Sydney Metropolitan 3,798 routes in Region

Summary:

Boulder,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.986010, -33.799653

1.2.6. Illawarra 2,594 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.610345, -34.772557

Description:

Sandstone ranging from rock hard at Mt Alex to slightly sandy else where.

1.2.7. South Coast 56 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad,Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.934651, -36.360813

Description:© (nmonteith)

Sandstone sea-cliff climbing a long way from anywhere.

1.2.8. Central Tablelands 5,267 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.895747, -33.069365

1.2.9. Southern Tablelands 876 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.560756, -34.821083

1.2.10. Snowy Mountains 77 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 148.866281, -36.358254

1.2.11. Northwest Slopes and plains 385 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.902545, -30.107391

1.2.12. Central Western Slope and Plains 235 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 147.888469, -32.350568

1.2.13. South West Slopes 0 routes in Region

1.2.14. Riverina 75 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 145.663287, -34.746873

1.2.15. Lower Western 0 routes in Region

1.2.16. Upper Western 0 routes in Region

1.2.17. Australian Capital Territory 1,936 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.021442, -35.466148

Description:

Generally - must love granite. The ACT is ringed with a large number of cliffs - for such a small geographical area - the majority of which are granite. Trad and mixed climbing is a focus, with Booroomba Rocks, Gibraltar Peak, Orroral Ridge and other such granite areas presenting opportunities for single and multi-pitch climbing up to hundreds of metres tall. Many of them also present interesting opportunities to test the mental faculties above large runouts as well!

However, don't be fooled by the name of the local guide (ACT Granite), sport climbing on other types of rock is by no means unrepresented in the area with a number of crags such as Red Rocks and those to be found in the Mount Coree area providing opportunities for late teen to late grade twenty climbing on river-style rhyolite rock. The ACT currently has climbs of grades up to 28/29, with the opportunity to free some (very) old aid climbs and move the route grades into the 30s. Bouldering is up to V11/12. Climbers new to granite, slab and/or crack climbing are encouraged to jump on a few lower grade climbs before throwing themselves headlong into an epic!

Climbing is fairly accessible in the ACT, with both Kambah Rocks and Red Rocks within easy reach of the city itself. A number of other crags close to the city have either seen access closed (Ginninderra Falls, Michelago) or have fallen off the radar of current climbers in favour of the established granite cliffs and tors.

Bouldering in the area is mostly on granite and generally quite accessible, particularly Cooleman Ridge. For a break from small granite crimps, a reasonable number of boulder problems can also be found at Red Rocks. There is reasonable potential for new problems in a number of areas around the ACT.

If you are having difficulty finding the areas - and some can be very difficult to find, the following link may be of use:

http://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&t=p&msa=0&msid=202220939889529959331.0004614316914ba5e0cf2&ll=-35.469618,149.136658&spn=1.263842,2.103882&z=9

1.2.18. Cataract Gorge 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.2.19. Gibraltar Rock 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.381243, -29.610421

1.2.20. Western NSW 0 routes in Region

1.3. Western Australia 1,998 routes in Region

131210118181152145634

1 Perth, 2 Margaret River, 3 Albany, 4 West Cape Howe, 5 Denmark, 6 Walpole, 8 Kalbarri, 10 Exmouth, 11 Newman, 12 Dampier Archipelago, 13 The Kimberley, 14 The Stirling Ranges, 15 Peak Charles, 18 Eaglestone Rocks

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 121.400342, -25.008599

1.3.1. Perth 682 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 115.651534, -32.116053

1.3.2. Margaret River 259 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 115.162763, -33.992922

1.3.3. Albany 300 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 117.868381, -35.033829

1.3.4. West Cape Howe 254 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 117.600702, -35.095454

Unique Features And Strengths:

West Cape Howe has some of the greatest sea cliff climbing in Australia

Approach:

4WD access along a sandy track, or a 1.5 to 2 hour walk from Shelly Beach.

Where To Stay:

Either camp at West Cape Howe or at Shelly Beach

1.3.5. Denmark 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 117.365889, -34.968561

1.3.6. Walpole 62 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 116.725051, -34.987445

1.3.7. Jingamia 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.8. Kalbarri 94 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 114.396980, -27.695140

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep sport climbing and exciting trad climbing on sandstone walls carved out by the Murchison River.

Description:

Situated on the Murchison River, a long way from anywhere, this beautiful isolated area is probably one of the best-known crags in Western Australia.

Kalbarri offers a variety of climbing styles, from steep bolted sport routes to longer trad routes. The area is probably most famous for the sport climbing area called the Promenade, the routes here have featured in many photos, and probably have led many people into thinking this area is about sport climbing alone. Don't let this fool you though, there is a lot of trad climbing to be done, with the potential for new routes still relatively untouched.

Whilst Kalbarri is a long way to go for a single crag, it is an amazing part of Australia and well worth the trip.

Access Issues:

National Park

Approach:

600km north of Perth.

Where To Stay:

Kalbarri has the full range of accommodation options from resorts to backpackers. It is possible to camp within the National Park, if you want to be a little closer to the climbing, although you will need to let the rangers know.

1.3.9. Mount Augustus 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.10. Exmouth 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 114.040706, -21.971858

1.3.11. Newman 106 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 119.678421, -23.368109

1.3.12. Dampier Archipelago 126 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 116.740418, -20.638147

1.3.13. The Kimberley 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 125.670034, -16.476812

1.3.14. The Stirling Ranges 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 118.037182, -34.391335

1.3.15. Peak Charles 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 121.167768, -32.896093

1.3.16. Porongurups 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and ?

1.3.17. Pinjarra 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.18. Eaglestone Rocks 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Top Rope and Trad

Long/Lat: 118.241812, -31.083224

Unique Features And Strengths:

An extensively bolted granite boulder in the middle of nowhere

Where To Stay:

Camp at base of boulder

1.4. Queensland 4,948 routes in Region

42403949383726363432315233302928352722242320251617910654731251281

1 Girraween, 2 Urbenville, 3 Mt Barney, 4 Mt Maroon, 5 Binna Burra, 6 Whitinbah Wafers, 7 Lake Leslie, 8 Donnelly's Castle, 9 Burleigh Heads National Park (closed), 10 Pages Pinnacle, 12 The Steamers (Main Range NP), 16 Mt Greville, 17 The Pulpit (private land), 20 Frog Buttress, 22 Redcliffs, 23 Flinders Peak, 24 Brisbane, 25 Nobbys Beach, 26 Indian Head, 27 Glasshouse Mountains, 28 Serpent, 29 Mt Coolum, 30 Mt Ninderry, 31 Noosa National Park, 32 Mt Tinbeerwah, 33 Point Glorious, 34 Mt Cooroora, 35 Maidenwell, 36 Brooyar, 37 Agnes Waters, 38 Rockhampton, 39 Bowen, 40 Townsville, 42 Cairns, 49 Mount Isa (Djarra Road), 51 Mt. Lindesay, 52 Emu Mountain

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.659069, -20.977083

Description:

Queensland. While not offering the world class crags such as Blue Mountains in NSW or Grampians in Victoria, what it lacks in volume it makes up for in variety. We have more varied rock types and styles within a day trip of Brisbane than any other capital city can boast.

1.4.1. Girraween 102 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.964662, -28.851536

1.4.2. Urbenville 73 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,?

Long/Lat: 152.529402, -28.477421

Description:

Not technically part of Queensland, but we've adopted it as our own. Guide available on www.qurank.com

Access Issues:

For access to The Crown: It is requested (by the farmer whose land you cross to access the cliff) that you phone him prior to your arrival and seek permission to access The Crown. His name is Mr Jones and his number is (02) 6634 1225. Think of this as a courtesy call which will serve to keep climbers in the good graces of land managers. Please do it. If you should have any problems with this arrangement, post up on qurank.com.

Approach:

Urbenville is in NSW, 150 km south of Brisbane via Beaudesert. Turn R to Rathdowney at the traffic lights in Beaudesert. Through Rathdowney and past spectacular mountain scenery. 'Campbell's Folly', the cliffline just past Palen Creek is particularly awesome, although it resides on private property. Drive on past Mt Lindsay and into NSW. At Woodenbong, turn L to Tabulam on McPherson Street. It is about 13 km to Urbenville.

1.4.3. Mt Barney 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.675111, -28.276829

Description:© (gremlin)

The largest massif of rock in south east 'Queensland'.

1.4.4. Mt Maroon 327 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.722000, -28.212894

Unique Features And Strengths:

Bold trad. Big walls & many long multi-pitch routes. Heaps of untouched rock. Most areas are visited very seldom = many crags are in a pure state. Climbing is quiet, just you & nature most days. Maggie's Farm is remote (5km walk in) & is, as of 2011, out of mobile coverage = be prepared in case of injury.

Description:

Great views of the Fassifern Valley, Moogerah Valleys, Knapps Peak & Mt. Barney.

Access Issues:

Access from the carpark to the N.P. is via the N.E. track & is across gazetted private land. Please stay on the path. The N.P. boundary is signed.

Approach:

Allow 1-1:15 to get to the start of Ruby Of India; about 30min to get to Viewpoint Buttress and about 1:15-1:30 to get to the Paparazzi Cliffs.

Where To Stay:

Bigriggen is by far & away the best camp ground in the area. Drive another 7kms east towards Rathdowney, turn off, after crossing the Logan River, onto Upper Logan Rd. & follow the signs to "Bigriggen"

Ethic:

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

History:

Prior to the arrival of Rick White (early 1968) at Maroon, very few climbers had visited the mountain = there are no records of ascents pre-1968. Rick, together with Chris Meadows, Ted Cais, Paul Caffyn & others, established well over 100 routes, all of which are pure trad but the rare button bolt was left behind on the hard East Face routes ("Phaedra" & "The Anti-Christ"). The only enhancement that Rick did, that I know of, was on "The Nympho" (Nympho Buttress), where he drilled a handful of holes into the rock (to insert rods into), so as to aid climb the blank section. Rick established Australia's first grade 22 route with "Valhalla" (East Face) in 1972. The other big contributor of ascents on Maroon is Robert Staszewski, who has climbed there since 1969 and has established well over 100 routes there, all of which are trad. Visiting Victorian climber Chris Peisker put up Queensland's first 24 in 1977: "Wounded Bird". Some development in the 80s by Paul Hoskins, Even Bieske, Chris Frost, Mark Plenderleith & others. Scott Camps arrived on the scene in the early 80s & has established a score of routes there, some using partial bolting to keep them sane, amongst these, two 24s ("Thins" & "C Mon, I Told Ya So"). Herb Brandmeier arrived in the early 90s and established many sport/part sport routes here & controversially opened a new "sport" crag on the mountain - Paparazzi Cliffs in 2004. In the 2000s, Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble established several trad routes. A new hard multipitch route was added to the very exclusive club of routes on the formidable Tiger Face in 2004: "Solar Quartet" (23 with aid=has yet to be freed). Maroon's hardest route was freed in 2007 by Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin: "The Anti-Christ" (28). Mark Gamble

1.4.5. Binna Burra 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 153.188347, -28.196291

1.4.6. Whitinbah Wafers 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 153.199698, -28.162788

Unique Features And Strengths:

Varied climbing (predominantly crack/corner) on rhyolite columns. Climbs range in height from 16m to 52m and in difficulty from grade 12 to 21.

Description:

The rock is well weathered rhyolite. The occasional loose flake makes a helmet a good idea. We have found slings useful on a lot of routes. Several tracks have been marked to help with access. (Last visited 15 years ago and scant tape on trees to mark the way down.) THE TRACK DOWN IS VERY STEEP AND ROUTE FINDING WOULD BE DIFFICULT IN 2010, BUT WELL WORTH THE TRIP.

Hope you enjoy the climbing. Rhys Davies, Trevor Gynther (This description/entry taken from an original typed copy of the guide book-John Rigsby-Jones Aug 2010)

From the three times I have been to the cliffs, the first being in 1986 the tape was easily found on the way down. The last trip to the clifffs 5 years later the tape had been very difficult to find with some on the ground then. The slope down is very steep = be careful. The base of the cliff is also steep but safe, walking along the bottom is tricky and requires caution. JRJ

Access Issues:

The guide book has a map of how to get to the Wafers and a map of the cliffs. I will have this up asap or email fife87@hotmail.com (John Rigsby-Jones)

1.4.7. Lake Leslie 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Lots of granite boulders

Description:

Guide here: http://www.qurank.com/guides/Guide_LakeLeslie.pdf

1.4.8. Donnelly's Castle 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.882862, -28.559102

Description:

Bouldering

More info at: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=2117

Access Issues:

Apparently a local council reserve, not clear

1.4.9. Burleigh Heads National Park (closed) 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,? and Sport

Long/Lat: 153.457436, -28.093649

Access Issues:

Note that as at January 2006, climbing has been officially "banned" by the area's ranger. They are permitted to issue spot fines of $225 each. You have been warned!

1.4.10. Pages Pinnacle 48 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 153.265538, -28.107051

1.4.11. Poondahra (NP - closed) 97 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.4.12. The Steamers (Main Range NP) 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,?

Long/Lat: 151.635841, -28.278968

1.4.13. Shady Buttress (closed) 131 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.4.14. Western Wall (closed) 68 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.4.15. Dinosaur Rocks (closed) 84 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

Description:

Small individual rocky outcrops

Access Issues:

Private land; farmer is not in favour of climbers on his property.

Ethic:

Farmer's hospitality was abused by climbers in the 80s = climbers now shut out.

History:

Developed by: Gordon & Evan Bieske, Stuart & Scott Camps, Andrew Barry, Peter Lehman, Mike Groom, Hugh Penning, Russell Chudliegh, Shane Chemello, Phillip Waters Allen Hansen, Phil Bigg, Paul Grey & others.

1.4.16. Mt Greville 114 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.504148, -28.077252

Description:© (gremlin)

Mt Greville is one of the several mountains around Boonah which is protected by the Moogerah Peaks National Park. The rock is tightly fused trachyte in various stages of errosion up to about 300m in height.

Useful Info: The nearest towns by distance are: Aratula, Mt Alford and Boonah.

There is no camping, water, BBQ's or facilities of any kind.

Various rare and endangered flora and fauna can be found around the peak including:

Westringia Sericea

Hibbertia Hexandra

Plectranthus Alloplectus

Acacia brunioides subsp. brunioides

Arundinella Grevillensis

Leionema Gracile

Grevillea Linsmithii

Comesperma Breviflorum

Melaleuca Groveana

Arundinella Montana

Black-Breasted Buttonquail

Powerful Owl

Brush-tailed Rock Wallaby

Important

Don't urinate or crap in the gorges, they are creeks!

Be dicreate and respect the environment when you are here.

There is a general agreement not to climb around Palm Gorge.

It is a very unique micro-environment, leave it for future generations.

The rock quality isn't great and the walls are covered in vegetation.

Don't ruin access for others by climbing in this amazing place...

1.4.17. The Pulpit (private land) 85 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.551208, -28.078137

Access Issues:

Please, if you do not know the farmer and have personal permission - don't go to the cliff.

1.4.18. The Mushroom 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.19. Millepede Butress 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,?

1.4.20. Frog Buttress 398 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.620137, -27.984007

Unique Features And Strengths:

Crack climbing par excellence. While the cracks aren't pure splitters, they are very, very excellent!

Description:

Hardcore crack climbing area offering splitter cracks to 40m in height.

Access Issues:

A bit over an hour SW from Brisbane.

Approach:

Five minutes.

Where To Stay:

Campground at top of cliff.

Ethic:

Trad climbing.

1.4.21. Goombungee 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport

Description:

Toowoomba locals will be the only ones interested in this small sandstone outcropping.

Access Issues:

Last I heard (2009), the landowner did not want climbers on his land.

1.4.22. Redcliffs 94 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.098918, -27.461873

Description:

A sandstone cliff hidden in the bush at the foothills of Toowoomba west of Brisbane. Development started in 2000 driven primarily by Phil Box and Lee Cujes. A guide is available on www.qurank.com

Access Issues:

It's possible to walk in, or drive a high-clearance 4WD to the top of the cliff. Great for camping.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Driving from 'Brisbane' towards Toowoomba, just after Helidon turn right off the highway toward Murphy's Creek. As you enter Murphy's Creek, turn right and go under the railway line. Turn right and follow the road until you come to a crossroads.

Turn right onto 'Paradise' Creek Rd and follow it along until the road does a sharp left and heads down the ridge. Don't go down the hill, but park on the right where you can see the cliffs across a valley.

Hop out of the car and follow the ridge down into the creek. Follow the creek along until you can scramble up toward the right hand side of the cliffs.

Alternative 4wd track to top of cliff is now once again open. Head in via Thomas Road, about a hundred metres before before causeway over Murphy's Creek proper turn left down into creek on the indistinct track. Follow creek west for around 1 kilometre or so and then follow track across creek, head up hill and through forest until you hit a T junction. Turn left and then about 600 metres down that track you will experience a Thelma and Louise moment where the track abruptly ends at top of cliff.

Please don't park or camp on turn around. Camp off the side of the road on the right where a few rough campsites exist. Alternatively camp at the Murphy's Creek 'Escape' campsite at the end of Thomas Road. They are great people. Please don't park in front of any of the neighbours around the end of Thomas Road, it annoys them. Give Phil Box a ring if you need any further info or any sort of a guide in. 0418716774

Ethic:

The ethic is natural protection where possible, and glue-in ringbolts or U-bolts where fixed protection is required.

1.4.23. Flinders Peak 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,?

Long/Lat: 152.810463, -27.804189

Description:© (nmonteith)

Flinders Peak is a prominent landmark to the south of Ipswich.

At this point in time it is CLOSED TO CLIMBING due to ongoing access negotiations. This won't be resolved in the near future. Please refrain from climbing at 'Flinders Peak' as it will jeopardise the dialogue that ACAQ is having with the QPWS.

1.4.24. Brisbane 768 routes in Region

Summary:

Boulder,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.970895, -27.469074

Description:

'Brisbane' is the third largest city in 'Australia' and capital of the state of 'Queensland'. It's situated in the state's subtropical southeast. Climbing in the city essentially means one thing: 'Kangaroo Point'. An ex-quarry located in a riverside park right in the city centre, it is some of the most easily accessible rockclimbing in the world.

Aside from 'KP', 'Brisbane' has some reasonable bouldering at 'Toohey Forest' and a number of indoor climbing gyms. Heading out of the city, there are plenty of crags within an hour or two's drive, including classics like 'Frog Buttress' and the 'Glasshouse Mountains'.

1.4.25. Nobbys Beach 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.446457, -28.071894

Description:

This area has some superb pocketed bouldering up sharp, overhung quartz rock. Many problems climb roofs and overhangs and are usually very pumpy. The best wall is situated behind the boulders on the northern side of the headland. Dynos and power moves are easily found here. Park on the southern end of Marine Parade in Miami and walk south along the beach to reach this area.

http://www.qurank.com/guides/goldcoast/goldcoast.html

1.4.26. Indian Head 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.358537, -25.006897

Access Issues:

This is a popular destination on Fraser Island so respect the area and other tourist there and take care when accessing the crag.

Approach:

Indian Head is located at the northern end of 75 Mile Beach and can be accessed from both 75 Mile Beach and Orchid Beach. A 4x4 car will be essential. Getting to the base of the cliff can be achieved by walking (rock hopping) via the north side of the Head, or a rappel. Take extreme caution with tide times and height as well as weather conditions.

History:

There is not much history in terms of climbing at Indian Head. The area is yet to be "developed"...

1.4.27. Glasshouse Mountains 618 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.914121, -26.918100

Unique Features And Strengths:

Something for everyone, from short hard sport climbs to long easy trad adventures and everything in between.

Description:

Four separate volcanic plugs (mountains) located on the Sunshine Coast north of Brisbane. The online guide is available at www.qurank.com/glasshouse

Access Issues:

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Where To Stay:

There are no camping areas within Glass House Mountains National Park. Nearby Beerburrum State Forest has a camping area at Coochin Creek. There are also private camping areas on the Glass House Mountains Rd. A range of other holiday accommodation is available in the Sunshine Coast hinterland.

For more information see these tourist information links.

Ethic:

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History:

Historically, one of the most important crags in the country. The birthplace of technical climbing in Australia is right here, pre-dating the area becoming a National Park. Ascents are recorded as early as the late 1800s.

1.4.28. Serpent 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.783559, -26.575566

Description:© (hotgemini)

Serpent began as a sport crag for summer climbing, and as a testing ground for those wanting to get accustomed to steeper ground. Many of the routes rely totally on bolt protection with fixed hangers, but that does not mean that we have ignored good natural gear. Therefore a selection of medium to large wires, small to medium cams and one or two larger pieces if so required for routes like 'Minotaur' won't go astray.

A 50m rope will suffice for most of the routes, but a 60m will do all the routes while also making rapping easier. About 10 quickdraws will be heaps and a couple of shoulder length slings to reduce drag. A handful of removable keyhole hangers will also be needed, for some routes still sport a carrot or two. All routes have lower-off rap stations, although some are shared.

When you reach a lower-off, please adhere to the international silent rule and place your own carabiners/quickdraws to top rope or work a route, otherwise the fixed gear is worn out very quickly and suddenly becomes a concern. When simply rappelling or lowering just the once, by all means use the fixed gear.

The trachyte at 'Serpent' is very sound and most routes here have had plenty of traffic. The friction is good and the features quite amazing, but this is rockclimbing and a loose block or two may still be encountered, so take care.

Useful Info: This guidebook is mainly comprised of infomation from Lee Cujes & Darrin Carters Qurank Guide. Some small changes and updates of new routes have been added by Matt Schimke. Topo's coming soon.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Serpent is located in the Blackall Range, NW of Nambour. Allow two hours travel time from suburban 'Brisbane'. Driving north from 'Brisbane' on the Bruce 'Highway', take the Eumundi-Noosa Road exit. At the roundabout, take the Eumundi-Kenilworth Road and travel north alongside the main highway for a few minutes until it veers left (west). Continue along this for approximately 22km to Gheerulla State Forest (signposted). Turn left onto Sam Kelly Road (dirt).

The camping area is about two kilometres from the entrance.

To park for climbing, stop at about 1.7km at the large red gum with an old survey marker carved into it. Park in the small area just before the tree on your right, facing the direction you drove in (hard to see).

The walk should take around 25 minutes, give or take, depending on fitness level. Follow the track which crosses the stony creekbed and leads to an intersection of walking track and motorbike track. Go straight ahead on a foot-track until you reach another intersection with a 4WD vehicle track. Turn right and walk along this dirt road for a few minutes until you see a large fallen tree with a prominent saw-cut end facing you (left side of road). You'll note a well-worn path leading uphill. Go up this. This track intersects with a newer, cut-in switchbacking path. If you choose to follow the switchback track (longer but easier), ensure you leave it (break left) at the green hiking-trail signpost, and keep going directly up the ridge on the original foot track. Eventually you'll spy the black rock of 'Serpent Wall'.

1.4.29. Mt Coolum 88 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 153.086891, -26.563009

Unique Features And Strengths:

Kneebars and lots of core strength on steep territory

Description:

There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic!

Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!

Access Issues:

Access to Mt Coolum is under strict community guidelines. If we obey the rules, then climbing here will continue.

The rules are:

• No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise)
• No routes up though the area where the falcons are
• Minimize impact and presence (i.e. no loud noise!)
• Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others
• Make an effort to clean chalk off holds
• Do not leave quickdraws on routes below the height of the tallest stick-clip. Leaving no draws is encouraged.

Approach:

One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park.

There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops).

Where To Stay:

Surfair Resort offer 2 bedroom unit. You can get the view of the cave while enjoying your coffee on the balcony. www.surfairmarcoola.com.au.

Ethic:

The cave has been largely developed in the last 10 years We value our relationship with the National Park and expect all users to respect this. It is essential not to disturb the wildlife and stay on the track to limit our impact.

1.4.30. Mt Ninderry 69 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.993413, -26.552727

Unique Features And Strengths:

Technical vertical faces, pumpy overhangs, stamina pieces, boulder problems in the sky, steep cave climbing, this little crag has it all. Great summer crag with brilliant views from the seaside walls

Description:

Sportclimbing at Mt Ninderry has been developed over the last few years. Prior to this occasional parties ventured up the odd trad route, though this activity went largely unrecorded. Many of the new routes are true sportclimbs while others are ''adventure sport'' with varying rock quality and trickier routefinding. A handful of long slings are handy and a 60m rope will suffice for most routes.

Access Issues:

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please keep this in mind. There is a longer hike in from the public carpark on the backside, however there are trespass issues from the frontside.

Ethic:

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged routes and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

1.4.31. Noosa National Park 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.107732, -26.390157

Description:© (hotgemini)

Climbing in Noosa started in late 88 with the discovery of Cook's County and the Devils 'Cauldron'. Trad climbing is done in these two areas as bolts are not needed. The Boiling Pot is a great place for bouldering with easy to difficult problems. No routes have been climbed here. 'Granite Bay' has some nice looking boulders just waiting to be climbed with problems from V0 to V6+.

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains low key.

1.4.32. Mt Tinbeerwah 44 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.974871, -26.389602

Description:

'Mt Tinbeerwah' is a 265m high volcanic plug just inland from Noosa on Queensland's Sunshine Coast. The climbs on offer here are fun, well-protected sport routes of moderate grade, with the odd trad or aid route. The cliff varies in height dramatically along its length so climbs vary from short single pitch to multipitches up to 5 pitches long.

Almost all bolts at Mt Tinbeerwah are carrot bolts (BRs in the descriptions) so bring plenty of bolt plates. A few climbs have fixed hangers (FHs) or u-bolts. There are large numbered rings along the top of the 'Main Wall' as well as double bolt belays (DBBs) for rapping and belaying.

There are two areas to climb at 'Mt Tinbeerwah': the 'Main Wall' and the much smaller 'Lower Wall'. Both walls face west, meaning it's too hot to climb here on summer afternoons. Helmets are advisable, as much for the things people throw off the lookout as for loose rocks.

See also J.J. O'Brien's Mt Tinbeerwah Climbing Guide.

Access Issues:

'Mt Tinbeerwah' is within the Tewantin National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach:

'Tinbeerwah' is about 140 km, or one hour forty-five minutes drive, north of Brisbane.

Follow the Bruce Highway north and take the Cooroy turnoff 120km from Brisbane. Drive through Cooroy, following signs to Noosa Heads to end up on the Cooroy-Noosa Rd. Follow this for about 8km before turning left into Tinbeerwah Rd, well marked with signs for the scenic lookout. Follow this road, which is dirt at times, for about 3km to the carpark at the top of 'Mt Tinbeerwah'.

View driving map

Where To Stay:

There are no camping areas within the Tewantin National Park. There is camping in a number of nearby parks and forests including Great Sandy National Park. A range of private camping and other holiday accommodation is available in Noosa and the rest of the Sunshine Coast.

For more information see these tourist information links.

1.4.33. Point Glorious 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.881502, -26.530745

Description:

Beautiful views and picnic area are on offer and a small amount of nice climbs on good rock.

Access Issues:

Point Glorious is located in the Yandina Hinterland. To get there, you must first drive through the township of Yandina and follow Cooloolabin Rd for about 15 minutes, until you spot buckby road on the right. Take this turn off and follow the signs marked "Point Glourius". 15 minutes off road

1.4.34. Mt Cooroora 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.837970, -26.373573

Description:

So far, adventure sport climbing on rock of variable quality. Single and multi-pitch. Quality hardware – fixed hangers and U-bolts. No carrots!

What to bring • 15 quickdraws plus the usual slings and screwgates. • Wear a helmet climbing and belaying. There is plenty of loose rock. • Bring two ropes. One 60m for leading with another of at least 50m for double-rope abseils. • Bring mozzie repellent and sunscreen.

Summer day trip beta 8:00am: Leave Brisbane driving north 9:40am: Toilet and food stop in Pomona 9:50am: Walk up to cliff 10:10am: Jug a fixed line (if you're lucky) to the upper ledge, or climb one of the routes (in the sun) 10:45am-3:00pm: Climb upper level routes in the shade 3:00pm: Rap to ground and climb lower level slab routes (in shade) 5:00pm: Walk out 7:15pm: Back in Brisbane

Approach:

The drive (nearly two hours from Bris) Drive north from Brisbane ~150km on the Bruce Highway past Cooroy, turn R at Pioneer Rd (pull over here for a good view of the cliff). Follow signs to Pomona. From the main street of Pomona, turn L at the main roundabout, then L again (Hospital St) then R on Mountain St. Follow for a minute or so. Park at the picnic shelter at the Mt Cooroora Park.

The walk in (12 minutes) • Walk across the road, don’t go up the “hiking trail” instead go down the old road though the gully and gate up to old quarry (150m) • Join road veering L, follow. (150m) • Junction. Go straight. Down through gully and up. (200m) • Turn R at fire break road, follow. (250m) • Barbed wire gate over road. Don’t cross. Go up R following fence to spur (fallen timber). (130 steps) • Up spur through she-oaks. (50 steps) • Contour L glimpsing the cliff ahead. Watch carefully to stay on vague track, crossing three gullies. (250m) • Hit the rock apron and walk L to locate 45m high multicoloured slab. (50 steps)

History:

Often eyed but rarely attempted. The seemingly poor quality of the rock and the lack of trustworthy natural protection has thwarted most attempts at climbing here previously. A three pitch free and aid route was established in 1975 by Robert Staszewski & Fred From but is now rusted and overgrown. Adam Donoghue did an “easy and pretty crappy” natural route in mid 90s, details unrecorded. Lee & Sam Cujes attempted a ground-up route on the North Faces in 2003 but bailed before the summit. JJ O’Brien and party rapped into a stance somewhere on the (sunny) North Faces and climbed out via a nice crackline they called “Not The King Of The Mountain”.

1.4.35. Maidenwell 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.815399, -26.850010

1.4.36. Brooyar 209 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.528138, -26.143946

Description:© (hotgemini)

Primarily short steep single pitch sandstone climbing. Alot of the imformation here is from Lee Cujes qurank guide.

Useful Info: Camping at glastonbury creek is $4.50/night as of 28/02/06, previously there was a 'pay and display' however this is NO LONGER AVAILABLE and you should book online through the terrible QNPWS online booking system. Gympie has food/alcohol/in-breeding/basic camping supplies but no climbing stores.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Brooyar is around 20 minutes northwest of gympie, which is a regional city around 2.5 hours north of brisbane. The most straightforward access is to take the main highway north from town, take the well signposted turn-off for the wide bay highway (the next town is kilkivan) then after about 2.85km turn left onto petersen road.

Petersen road turns to dirt after about 1.6km and then begins a meandering path to the crags and campsite. Follow the main road and you should get there fine, the best map of the region shows that the side roads lead to an area labelled 'here be dragons'.

After (very) roughly 2km, you'll come to crest with another well travelled road turn to the right and continuing uphill, follow this to the crags or alternatively going straight ahead takes you towards the wonderful glastonbury creek camping area.

If you go straight ahead to the campground after about another 1km you'll come to a roughly triangular intersection, turn left for the campsite, straight ahead is an alternative route back to gympie if you know the way.

1.4.37. Agnes Waters 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,Top Rope and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.910729, -24.207631

1.4.38. Rockhampton 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.495125, -23.373869

1.4.39. Bowen 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.232617, -20.031366

1.4.40. Townsville 996 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.848164, -19.241162

Unique Features And Strengths:

Townsville offers something for everyone.

Description:

Townsville is great for close climbing, with most areas within half an hour drive and many different styles of climbing on offer. From the large as life boulders of "Harvey's Marbles" & "Magnetic Island" to the high quality trad and sport climbs of "Mt Stuart" and the 100m multi pitches of "Castle Hill" you will easily find something to suit you.

Access Issues:

Most areas are free to access to the public, some are closed for short times during the year due to car, bike and running races and other events such as flooding, bush fires or land slides after heavy rain. but they will open again soon after.

Where To Stay:

Townsville offers many hotels and camping grounds ranging in prices

Ethic:

Marking the rock at the start of the climbs used to be the norm, this is now frowned apon

1.4.41. The Citadel 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Description:

Guide available on www.qurank.com

1.4.42. Cairns 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.734789, -16.913969

1.4.43. Innisfail 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.44. Turkey Hill 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.45. Coral Beach 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Boulder

1.4.46. Emerald Creek 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

1.4.47. Moomank Buttress (private land) 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.48. Tank Traps 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

1.4.49. Mount Isa (Djarra Road) 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 139.493432, -20.730983

1.4.50. Springsure 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Description:

area has tons of walls needs to be developed

1.4.51. Mt. Lindesay 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,?

Long/Lat: 152.713961, -28.348715

1.4.52. Emu Mountain 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.085695, -26.506525

Approach:

Emu Mountain is a 1.5 hour drive north of Brisbane. Access to the walking tracks is from Havana Rd East, Coolum Beach.

1.4.53. Test Area 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.5. South Australia 2,841 routes in Region

23415

1 Adelaide, 2 Flinders Ranges, 3 Booborowie, 4 Eyre Peninsula, 5 Kangaroo Island

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 135.700462, -30.865176

1.5.1. Adelaide 1,689 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.771553, -34.944410

Description:

Would anyone donate their garage for winter bouldering? Are there already some woodies around the CBD area?

1.5.2. Flinders Ranges 1,004 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 138.611696, -31.648360

1.5.3. Booborowie 61 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.769773, -33.422532

Unique Features And Strengths:

One of the only cliffs in the mid north

Description:

Due to the fact that this crag is seldom visited, most of it is covered in moss, except a couple of routes which feature pigeon poo.

Watch out for loose rock too!

Access Issues:

Private land, phone before accessing

1.5.4. Eyre Peninsula 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

Top Rope,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 135.790315, -33.428337

1.5.5. Kangaroo Island 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 137.275804, -35.823094

1.6. Northern Territory 630 routes in Region

12

1 Top End, 2 Central Australia

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 133.517380, -18.376369

1.6.1. Top End 273 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 131.157005, -13.036973

1.6.2. Central Australia 357 routes in Region

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 133.406794, -24.374884

1.7. Tasmania 3,607 routes in Region

17434625729393647311162376450212730124819412614311522423223344455320385142281051318359158

1 Adamsfield, 2 Barn Bluff, 3 Ben Lomond, 4 Bicheno, 5 Blackmans Bay, 6 Blackwood Rocks, 7 Brady's Lookout, 8 Bruny Island, 9 Cape Raoul, 10 Clifton, 11 Cluan Tier, 12 Coles Bay, 13 Coningham, 14 Elderslie Bouldering, 15 Federation Peak, 16 Fingal (Bare Rock), 17 Flinders Island, 18 Fortescue Bay, 19 Frenchmans Cap, 20 Freuhauf, 21 Geryon & The Acropolis, 22 Grasstree Hill, 23 Gunner's Quoin, 24 Handsome Crag, 25 Hillwood (private land), 26 Kempton Quoin, 27 Lake Huntley, 28 Lark's Edge, 29 Launceston (Cataract) Gorge, 30 Lost Falls, 31 Lowdina, 33 The Monkeys, 35 Mount Brown, 36 Mount Roland, 37 Mount Oakleigh (Cradle Mountain Walk), 38 Mount Wellington, 39 North Esk, 41 Oatlands, 42 Proctor's Road Quarry, 43 Rocky Cape, 44 Rocky Tom, 45 Sentinel Range, 46 Sisters Beach, 47 South Sister, 48 Table Mountain, 50 Walls of Jerusalem, 51 Waterworks Quarry, 52 Handsome Crag bouldering, 53 Waverly Park Bouldering

Summary:

?,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.794760, -41.530859

1.7.1. Adamsfield 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 146.302071, -42.730305

1.7.2. Barn Bluff 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.924244, -41.724211

1.7.3. Ben Lomond 159 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 147.682749, -41.605531

1.7.4. Bicheno 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,?

Long/Lat: 148.283914, -41.885805

1.7.5. Blackmans Bay 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 147.332887, -43.018486

1.7.6. Blackwood Rocks 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.905847, -41.814296

1.7.7. Brady's Lookout 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.991631, -41.327498

1.7.8. Bruny Island 0 routes in Crag

1.7.9. Cape Raoul 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 147.795341, -43.238981

1.7.10. Clifton 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 147.533827, -42.995946

1.7.11. Cluan Tier 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 146.806931, -41.656404

Description:© (GerryN)

The Cluan Tiers are a range of hills near the town of Westbury in Northern 'Tasmania'. On the western side facing the Liffey Valley, is a substantial dolerite escarpment about 2km long and up to 90m high, but only two of the faces have been deemed worthy of climbing. The cliff is unusual for dolerite as it is generally void of cracks, and forms overhanging blocky faces with big roofs. Consequently the crag has been developed as a sport climbing area. The nature of the rock lends itself to steep, difficult climbing, and the main wall in particular, is quite intimidating. The cliff faces south-west and does not see sunlight until well into the afternoon, making it an ideal summer crag. Climbers should come prepared for cold weather as it is an alpine area subject to the full force of westerly weather. The views to the western tiers are glorious, making it a spectacular location for climbing.

Approach:© (GerryN)

Access is remarkably easy, being just 45 minutes drive from Launceston and a 10 minute walk on a track to the top of the cliff. From Launceston travel to Westbury and continue another 9km on the old highway to Exton. Turn left at Exton onto C502, signposted Quamby Brook and Golden Valley. Continue straight ahead at the crossroads after 4km. About 3km later is a gravel road on the left signposted to the 'Cluan Tier'. From here it is 16km on logging roads to the cliff. Follow the main 'Cluan Tier' Road and after about 12km is a crossroads. Take the road on the right which goes steeply up a hill. At the top of the hill, keep following the main road and take left hand turns at the two intersections you come across. The road passes underneath a powerline and curves around to meet the powerline again about 1km further. Park here at the powerline easement marked by a cairn on the left. Follow the powerline easement up the hill for 10 minutes to the top of the cliff. After some easy bashing through a grove of ferns for about 100m, there is a good gravel track up the easement. At the powerpole closest to the cliff edge, turn left and follow a rough path for 50m to the descent gully marked by a cairn. A short descent gully leads to the first cliff while the main cliff is about 100m further around to the right.

History:© (GerryN)

Climbers have probably been aware of these cliffs for years, being obvious from the road to Liffey Falls. Gerry Narkowicz scrub bashed up the hill from the western side in May 2006 and realised the potential of the cliff. He made the first climbing trip to the area with Nick Hancock on 10/6/06 and two routes were climbed and another three projects were bolted over three days.

1.7.12. Coles Bay 639 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 148.303722, -42.146243

1.7.13. Coningham 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 147.289283, -43.079412

1.7.14. Elderslie Bouldering 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.092770, -42.570823

Description:

The bouldering at Elderslie is on sandstone boulders and is quite good but has always had access issues.

Approach:

To get there drive up the Midlands Highway from Hobart towards Brighton. Take the left hand road just before Brighton (Elderslie Road). Follow this road for 15 minutes or so before reaching Elderslie (not much more than a few farms and a golf club). Take a right a few kilometres out of Elderslie (Clifton Vale Road) and follow this dirt road for about 5 kilometres before reaching a Y intersection; take the right road (to Dysart), you will go up a rise and then the road will go down again, at the bottom of this hill on the left is the fire trail about 1 kilometre from the intersection. (Note: This first area is now mostly inaccessible, unless you can convince the new landowners otherwise!). You walk up here for 100m or so and then to your left is Slug Rock (amongst the trees) and the Ant Rocks are about 100m uphill from here. Drive on another 200m or so and on the right is the pullover next to the creek, opposite the obvious Roadside boulders. Park here to access the Block (access at your own risk!) and Forbidden Forest areas. For the Gully area, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left.

Ethic:

Most of the bouldering in this area is on relatively soft sandstone. This can, in case of recent rain or general dampness, lead to easy breaking of holds. Hence when climbing in this area on a wet or damp day, be careful not to break any important holds.

History:

It was originally discovered by Mike Berry and developed by Stu Bowling & friends in early 2001. The area got some more life in 2006 with the discovery of the Gully by Jon Nermut and Dave Humphries, and then later the Arch and the Terrace.

1.7.15. Federation Peak 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.472406, -43.274898

1.7.16. Fingal (Bare Rock) 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 147.986344, -41.666619

1.7.17. Flinders Island 51 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 148.086052, -40.113606

1.7.18. Fortescue Bay 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 147.980532, -43.131268

1.7.19. Frenchmans Cap 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 145.827113, -42.261797

1.7.20. Freuhauf 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 147.302106, -42.893820

1.7.21. Geryon & The Acropolis 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.050979, -41.931561

1.7.22. Grasstree Hill 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 147.360445, -42.779148

1.7.23. Gunner's Quoin 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 147.320169, -42.768925

1.7.24. Handsome Crag 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 147.087973, -42.740888

1.7.25. Hillwood (private land) 103 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport

Long/Lat: 146.951034, -41.217990

Access Issues:

The climbing at Hillwood is on private land and the access to this area is a delicate issue. If it is your first time climbing at Hillwood the land owner has requested that you call Bob McMahon on 63944225 or Gerry Narkowicz on 63301435 If there is a sign on the fence saying that the area is closed for shooting vermin please do not enter the area!

Where To Stay:

Egg island reserve, 5 minutes south of the climbing at Hillwood is the recommended camping location. Egg island however has no facility's (no water, no toilets) It is also possible to camp at the batman bridge 5 minutes north of the climbing at Hillwood. Batman bridge is more widely used (noisy) but it does have toilets.

1.7.26. Kempton Quoin 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 147.273348, -42.542455

1.7.27. Lake Huntley 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 145.609713, -41.938518

1.7.28. Lark's Edge 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad

Long/Lat: 147.549498, -42.969226

1.7.29. Launceston (Cataract) Gorge 444 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 147.116592, -41.450275

1.7.30. Lost Falls 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 147.889795, -42.043411

1.7.31. Lowdina 153 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 147.416242, -42.636388

1.7.32. Meehan Range - Mornington 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and Top Rope

Description:

A crag developed by Dave Barnes and friends earlier in this 21st century. Mudstone that yeilds a handfull of worthwhile routes. Mostly bolted and up to 20m in hight. See Thesarvo for more information.

1.7.33. The Monkeys 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 147.302338, -42.782203

1.7.34. Mother Cummings 1 route in Unknown

Summary:

All Trad

1.7.35. Mount Brown 122 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 147.859983, -43.197321

1.7.36. Mount Roland 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.246319, -41.496149

1.7.37. Mount Oakleigh (Cradle Mountain Walk) 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.051738, -41.804760

1.7.38. Mount Wellington 312 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 147.214561, -42.902195

Description:

Mt Wellington, the grand old lady of Tasmanian climbing. A series of buttresses and tiers that bring grown men to tears and where climbers make pacts with God, Neon or otherwise. There is so much history to this crag, listed in successive guidebooks, magazine articles and on the web. Regarding guidebooks, past or present; beware when any route description says, thought provoking, aka, there is a high change you could die. A safe way to determine the safety of a route is to take note of retreat slings and re-thread one yourself. Let some-one else’s epic evidence be your guide.

“The Mountain” is the alpha male of Australian suburban crags. It has an alpine flavour and with huge exposure – sitting on a lonely belay ledge, 1400m above Hobart, is cathartic. The rock itself, dolerite, has been lifted by volcano, frozen by winter snow and cracked by countless summer suns. The rock is friable and it is not uncommon to hear a hold hollow out under your desperate paws. Most people stay the classics as most of the bad stuff has been pulled off by some poor sod before you.

Lots of people like the Northern Buttress, lots of other climbers head to the Fiddlesticks or Moonraker for their multi-pitch fix and the others seek out some Jurassic route with rusted pitons and flaring cracks. Me, I like the tiers in the middle, lots of varied climbing on tall buttresses. Whatever draws you here and however well you climb, bring a helmet, bring a fleece and bring your courage, it will help you go further when everything else is telling you to bail!

On a sunny day, don’t arrive too late as the climber’s carpark only has places for about five vehicles. Beware climbing soon after winter as the ice has played its timeless games and expanded and loosened the rock. Be prepared for any weather, any time. Other than that, enjoy the Pipes experience – it’s unique.

1.7.39. North Esk 146 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 147.240044, -41.482650

1.7.40. Northern Badgers 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.7.41. Oatlands 180 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.377433, -42.304523

Description:

Oatlands has been in development since 2001 and is now the best bouldering area in Tasmania. The climbing is on both roofs and faces and is of very high quality. The sandstone is generally quite solid, which is fairly unique for Tasmania. As well as Tasmania's hardest bouldering, Oatlands also has an increasing number of quality moderates.

Approach:

Oatlands can be found about 1 hours drive north of Hobart up the Midlands Highway, or a bit longer than 1 hour south of Launceston.

1.7.42. Proctor's Road Quarry 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 147.311071, -42.910263

1.7.43. Rocky Cape 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.513647, -40.856651

1.7.44. Rocky Tom 95 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 147.380602, -42.825146

Description:

This crag has a high occurrence of visits by Scout groups and school 'adventure eduction' classes. The reason for its popularity with novices is pretty obvious when you visit, as it is one of the few cliffs in the Hobart region with a predominance of excellent easy routes. It also contains its share of good hard routes. Rocky Tom's popularity is also boosted by its closeness to town and a sunny aspect. The climbs at Rocky Tom are usually top-roped which is quite easily done (many have been soloed and, to my knowledge, no-one has ended up like Russel Chudleigh yet). Stainless steel bolts provide anchors at the top of some of the more popular routes, and trees are otherwise plentiful. However, there are few gear placements for those who would want to lead. Most climbs are about 8m high and all are on sandstone.

Approach:

Access to Rocky Tom requires a ten minute drive and then a 30 minute walk. From the city centre, head for the eastern shore via the Tasman Bridge and head for Sorell. Leave the highway 4 km from the bridge at the B33 exit (Mornington, Warrane, etc), turn R toward Flagstaff Gully and park 5 km further on, past the first entrance to the Quarry, at the Flagstaff Gully Reserve, before the entrance to the Quarry proper. Note that the gate at the bottom of the initial hill, by the reservoir (800m from the end of the road), is locked after hours, so it is advisable to park in the area provided just outside the gate. The gate is open: weekdays 6am – 4pm; Sat 6am – 12 pm; Sun closed. The walk has been considered by some to be steep and exhausting, but it is short and along a well defined track. From the car, walk to the end of the bitumen road. Follow the 4wd track (now very rough) which leads down left from behind the tree in the middle of a parking bay. This soon crosses a creek and then heads uphill. After ascending for about ten minutes, the track veers R and a walking track heads up to the L. Follow this for 200m up to Shadow Buttress. The buttresses and climbs are described in the conventional L-to-R ordering. Note that the track first approaches Shadow Buttress, then crosses the hill to Hanging Buttress, before swinging east past the rest of Castle Wall, Square Buttress and White Stump. The Bastille and Lone Tower are approached from Shadow Buttress by deviating from the normal track.

Ethic:

As top-roping is the status-quo, the climbs have been graded for a top-rope ascent.

1.7.45. Sentinel Range 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.233788, -42.863570

1.7.46. Sisters Beach 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.586524, -40.915763

1.7.47. South Sister 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.173026, -41.536352

1.7.48. Table Mountain 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 147.139386, -42.236583

1.7.49. Tullah 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.7.50. Walls of Jerusalem 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.217547, -41.891495

1.7.51. Waterworks Quarry 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 147.310914, -42.903161

Description:

Waterworks is the central crag of Hobart and after a stint in the ugly corner has come out looking quite good. Why? As of 2009 the place has been given a total overhaul with a chest high fence with a gate just for climbers provided by the HCC. It has a flat area in front of the cliff for the kids to play which is a rare treat for family climbers, and finally, almost all routes have been retro bolted as of 2009 - well that is as safe as you can be on quarried rock. You can now safely do a few routes after uni or work and be home for tea.

The trade route for the place is Serial Driller (21). I quite like, Death Unto Racist (20) and Bastard Cancer (21), both soft touches but fun climbing. Paul Prichard is a resident climber and in early 2010 he added a climb near Jesus Built My Hammer Drill (18). It is great to see that such a fine climber is out there adding to the Hobart scene.

It's marvelous to have a city crag where mates can meet and you don’t have to haul your ass to get to. I would love to know who has done all the routes here in a day? A reasonable challange for the gym buffed boys and girls. Check it out. DB

1.7.52. Handsome Crag bouldering 273 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.093689, -42.739952

Description:

Handsome Crag has quite a decent amount of reasonable sandstone. There is quite a lot of potential here for bouldering, and there has been a rapid amount of development here since it was kicked off by Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut and Campbell Godfrey in May 2008

Access Issues:

Unfortunately a locked gate has been put up on the bottom of the access road. The crag though is on Crown Land and administered by Forestry Tasmania hence it is possible to use other access roads which in turn involve a reasonable amount of walking.

Approach:

NEW APPROACH

Instead of turning right off Back River Road keep driving for another 400 or so metres until you get to Handsome Cave Road. Enter Handsome Cave Rd and park on the green patch on the left. If you have a 4x4 with A LOT of clearance you can keep driving on Handsome Cave Rd over some rough terrain. T At the first fork you get to, which is right after the BIG hole in the road, it does actually not matter whether you take the left or the right road since they meet up at the top,....for hikers I would recommend the left rd and for cars the right,.....at the top where the two roads merge again follow the road to the left, past a shack on the left and keep driving/hiking until you get to another fork. Take the left hand road and drive for a couple hundred metres until you get to a bit of a clearing which acts as a turning point for cars. This is where you park your car in case you drove up,...from here follow the marked foot track. The marked track is relatively easy to follow if you stay observant and look for cairns. At the top of the cairned track you will arrive at the old access road. Here you will have to turn left to get to the Weakhold or turn right to get to the Stronghold. Each of the starting tracks to the areas are marked with cairns.

OLD APPROACH

To get there head up to New Norfolk and cross to the northern side of the Derwent River. Head up river and take the first right, followed by a left. Follow this through the outer suburbs of New Norfolk to the T-junction: to get to the cliff turn right along Back River Road. The turn-off to the crag is about 2km along Back River Road from the T-junction. Turn right at the driveway to house numbers 658, 660 & 662 (this is the old access road which is now locked via a gate) Another possible access which involves about 40 minutes of walking is the Handsome Caves Road. Park at the beginning of the road, hike to where the road turn into a walking track and follow to walking track to the caves area. From there follow another faint track leading atop the caves and hill towards the Weakhold end of Handsome Crag.

1.7.53. Waverly Park Bouldering 37 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.389591, -42.867231

Description:

Waverly Park on the eastern shore of Hobart provides some nice sandstone problems with easy access. The park contains four areas - Rosny Rocks, The Reservoir, Bellerive Boulder, and Clarence Crag.