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Table of contents

1. The Weakhold 101 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.099757, -42.739344

Access Issues: inherited from Handsome Crag

A locked gate has been put at the bottom of the old access road, but you can still use other access roads and some walking to reach the crag. The crag is on Crown Land and administered by Forestry Tasmania.

1.1. The Book Thief Bloc 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.099520, -42.739228

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V3

Follow the crack line to the left of Book Thief

V3Boulder
2 The God of small things

Project - Stand start on two small small side pulls, punch up and right to the arete and continue up just left of The Book Thief.

V?Boulder
3 *** The Book Thief

The striking highball arete on the main face of the boulder. Sit start on the jug at the bottom of the arete, lob up to the sloper and continue up past edges and pockets before cruising up the highball victory head wall. The easiest way down is to down climb the headwall and jump onto the pads.

V10Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Pendulum

It's very hard to say how hard this is, maybe around V-6ish. Sit start with your right hand on the bottom most hold on the flake and the left hand on a small edge, slap up the flake to the jugs and head up the easy top out.

V6Boulder
5 * Atomised

SDS under 'arch' where Book Thief Bloc leans on Eco-Terrorist Bloc. Move up and left along right arete of Book Thief Bloc.

V3Boulder
6 Eco-Terrorist Assis

These next two problems are on the small steep face to the right of the Book Thief Block. This is the Eco-Terrorist Block. The left hand arete sit start to Eco-Terrorist. Sart left hand on a dimpled sloper on the left hand arete and the right hand on a slopey break low down on the face, punch out and up to finish up Eco-terrorist. Harder than Eco-Terrorist.

V?Boulder
7 *** Eco-Terrorist

The main face with two cracks spilling down it. Start with the left hand in the three-finger pocket and the right hand on the edge at the bottom of the crack, bust up using underclings and side pulls. There is a direct sit-start to go using two sloping edges on the face below.

V9Boulder

1.2. Seduction Bloc 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

A great bloc, with quality problems in the V1 to V5 range.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Nice Crack

Starts at jugs below the thin crack left of Bonjour, up past crack, onto slab, trend slightly right to top.

V1Boulder
2 ** Bonjour / Nice Jugs

The leftmost problem on the face of the boulder facing the rear wall. SDS on jugs right of arete, move up and leftish finishing up arete.

V2Boulder
3 ** Ca va / The Double

Wow! SDS just right of Bonjour. Up using slopey rails, then dyno like a possessed person. Classy.

V3Boulder
4 * Ca va Bien

Ca va's more difficult twin.

V5Boulder
5 * The Seduction Traverse

Low right to left traverse along slopes, finishing up Bonjour.

V2Boulder
6 * The double Traverse

Sit start out right on the jug and traverse across the slopey break before finishing up Nice Jugs, or harder up The Double.

V2Boulder
7 V3

From the start of The Double Traverse, up and left on small holds to jugs at the top.

V3Boulder
8 Nice Flake

From the start of Nice Traverse follow flake up right then to bucket.

V0Boulder
9 Bum Hummers

Slab around to the right of the previous problems. Sit start on the sloping jugs and head straight up the face.

V1Boulder
10 Humming Bums

Stand - Starts 1m right of Bum Hummers and heads up and right to top out.

V2Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 ** There Where The Pepper Grows

Sit start in the slopey break and head up before busting out left under the arête to finish on the left face.

V5Boulder
12 ** The Seduction of Silence

The classic of the boulder. Start as for There Were the Pepper Grows but head straight up on the right side of the arête.

V5Boulder

1.3. Illumination Wall 10 routes in Feature

Summary:
Description:

Section of the rear wall of the Weakhold, located about halfway between Extraterrestrial Boulder and the Seduction Block

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project

Project - about 1 metre left of V6 towards left hand end of Illumination Wall.

V?Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * V6

Up on pockets from right hand side of the scoop on the left side of the wall.

V6Boulder
3 * Illumination Traverse

Obvious traverse line. Do SDS of Everything is illuminated, then move right until the line peters-out. Can be done in either direction.

V3Boulder
4 Low traverse

Start of left jug, follow the diagonal weakness down to bum dragging height, then straight up 2 moves, then along right on thing holds avoiding the higher good holds

V4Boulder
5 *** Everything is Illuminated

SDS. Up and rightish on positive jugs, shallow pockets, and a rail, before moving back slightly left for high topout. Welcome to classicville.

V5Boulder
6 Rightly Illuminated

Stand - Starting on the jugs at head height up to the corner of the seam, past a crimp rail, to join Everything is Illuminated (a left healhook on the jugs is key). Probably a touch harder than Everything is Illuminated but not much.

V6Boulder
7 Leftwards to Ruination

Stand - Start as Rightly Illuminated but bust right into Ruination day and Illuminatie finish. Maybe just a bit harder than Ruination but maybe not significantly.

V8Boulder
8 ** Ruination Day

Stand - Start on the big jugs in the middle of the wall, head up and then punch out right to top out in the same place as Illuminatie.

V8Boulder
9 *** Illuminatie

Stand - Start on the jug at the right hand end of the wall, head straight up the face to top out.

V6Boulder
10 V5

The right most and easiest problem on the wall. Sit start on the juggy rail and head up and rightish. V-5ish??

V5Boulder

1.4. J'Aimerais Bien Francais 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This is the east facing wall at the far end of the massif.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** J'Aimerais Bien Francais

An ultra classic problem. Sit start on the obvious jug and head up the wall into the committing finishing moves. If you brake the cimps off at the start please put them somewhere safe.

V7Boulder
2 ** V5/6

The classic high arete on the right edge of the J'Aimerais Bien Francais wall.

V6Boulder

1.5. Extra Terrestrial 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

Extra Terrestrial Boulder s the boulder below he end of the back wall and probably the southern most boulder at the Weakhold.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 unknown

The left hand arete of the boulder. Some one has cleaned some holds.

V?Boulder
2 ** James Wishes he was a Frenchman

Superb climbing up the main face of the boulder. Start on the sidepulls on the face, climb delicately up the face before gaining the arête at about two-thirds height.

V3Boulder
3 unknown 2

project - the right hand arete

V?Boulder

1.6. Elvis Boulder 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This is the next boulder across from Seduction Block with an undercut front. First problems are on the front.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V1 front

Start as for the next prob, head up and around left

V1Boulder
2 V2

Up crack line to slopey top out

V2Boulder
3 V?

From chossy jugs through bulge

V?Boulder
4 V1 back

1 metre to the right of Elvis.

V1Boulder
5 * Elvis

Nice easy jugs on left end from rail.

V0Boulder

1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.099666, -42.739196

Description:

This is the tallish boulder that leans against the right side of the Eco-terrorist Block. The problems on this boulder range from easy to moderate in difficulty. There are two descent options, the front face of the boulder or the tree on the backside.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Moondance

Stand - A beautiful little number. Squat start down low on some good holds, then head up and left through the moon scoop and top out.

V0Boulder
2 V0

Stand - Left of arete

V0Boulder
3 * Juggy Crack

Stand - Juggy Crack

VeBoulder
4 1st V3

Start on the good slopey edges and head up and right through the weird slopey stuff

V3Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 V2

Highball - Start on two edges and head for the big slope. Finish straight up.

V2Boulder
6 V1

Highball - Head for the big hole then right at the top.

V1Boulder
7 V?

Project between V1 to the left and V3 to the right, maybe a little contrived.

Boulder
8 * 2nd V3

Start on slopey crimp and head for the jug.

V3Boulder
9 * Monkey gone to Heaven

Start at low pockets 1m left of tree. Up to break then dyno to top.

V4Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * V5

Slopers just right of the tree

V5Boulder
11 ** Russian Doll

Line 1m left of Rope a Dope, to same top out

V5Boulder
12 * Rope a Dope

Jugs to slopey top out

V3Boulder

1.8. Chronicle Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.099381, -42.739238

Description:

This is the first house-sized boulder you see on your left. There is potential for several problems on the main face, however they have not yet been brushed. There is a classic V6 on the right face called Chronicle of a Death Foretold.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Doctor

The obvious sit-start on two edges heading up the face below the main arête of the boulder.

V6Boulder
2 ** The Story of Death Foretold

Start matched on the one-pad edges on the steepest part of the wall, head up and left to top out.

V6Boulder
3 Project

Project - traverse in start to Chronicle of a Death Foretold. Starts way around to the right on the front side of the boulder.

VBoulder Project
4 Big Coins

Start just left of arete near Book Thief. Head straight up, easy climbing after a low crux. AKA Stand Start to The Doctor

V0Boulder

1.9. Slabby Boulder 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This low angle boulder is behind the Chronicle Boulder. It has some ok warm ups.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V-easy

Stand - Left arete

Boulder
2 Ve

Stand - Juggy face left of arete

Boulder
3 V0

Stand - Slab

V0Boulder
4 V1 stand

Stand - Slab

V1Boulder
5 V1 sit

Sit - Slab

V1Boulder

1.10. Monkey Boulder 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This is the next boulder left from the Chronicle Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Tales from outer Suburbia

Hang Start - Undercut face on far left of boulder to sloper finish

V9Boulder
2 * Code Brown

Sit start just left of the arete on back of the boulder, head up and L.

V3Boulder
3 One Foot High

Sit start at sloper in middle of face. Up.

V3Boulder
4 * Gnarly Monkey

Sit start as for the previous problem, traverse R on the line of slopers to finish up Wee Brown Monkey.

V2Boulder
5 V1

Start just right of crack, up.

V1Boulder
6 Wee Brown Monkey

The R arete of the face

V0Boulder
7 * Common Problem

On the far right side of the boulder, just right of a thin crack. Start on edges, a couple of hard moves leads to jugs.

V4Boulder

1.11. 8 Seconds Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This is the little freestanding boulder just next to Illumination Wall. It has a problem on each arete.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V0 sit

Chossy jugs on the left arete of the face facing Illuminate Wall.

V0Boulder
2 V0 stand

The right arete of the opposite face.

V0Boulder
3 V2

The left arete of the opposite face.

V2Boulder
4 * 8 Seconds

The undercut righthand arete. Traverse the lip on slopers then up.

V5Boulder

1.12. Heartstarter Wall 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This is the first of a couple of very good quality overhanging walls on the massif that forms the right hand edge of the Weakhold. It is situated about 20 metres past the Seduction Block.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blindness

Project - This desperate little number needs to wait for a cold day. Start on the obvious edge on the lip of the steep section of wall, head up past slopers and sidepulls to top out.

V?Boulder
2 ** Heartstarter

Standing start on an undercling/sidepull with the right hand and a bad edge with the left, head up and left through a series of slopey edges.

V8Boulder

1.13. Double Dave Prow 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This is the steep prow behind Slabby Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Double Dave Prow

Highball - Up the left edge of the prow. Struggle up to the horizontal break then down climb off to the left.

V3Boulder

1.14. Corner Crack Wall 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This nice wall is at the far west end of the Weakhold, as the back wall turns left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Corner Crack

The obvious layback crack.

V1Boulder
2 ** V4/5

Start just right of the corner crack at a flat hold. Move right then up via slopers.

V5Boulder

1.15. Politik Boulders 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

These are a series of boulder out from Corner Crack Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V0

Stand - Easy slab on left

V0Boulder
2 V4/5

Stand - Tricky slab

V5Boulder
3 ** Seam

Stand - Up seam line using side pulls on to slab

V3Boulder
4 *** Politik

Stand start using undercling, up through bulge on slopers and crimps, a fun problem. The hard sit start is a project.

V5Boulder
5 * V3

On the next boulder across, sit start using opposing side pulls, up on to slab.

V3Boulder
6 * Eyes Wide Shut

Stand - Slab through little bulge. Harder than it looks.

V6Boulder
7 Project

Project - slab on the right

V?Boulder

1.16. Caliginous Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This is the next boulder along from the Monkey Boulder. It has some ok problems, but needs traffic.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Caliginous

Face left of the arete

V3Boulder
2 ** Masons' Handshake

Start on holds each side of the arete and head for the top.

V3Boulder
3 V2

Right of the arete

V2Boulder
4 V1

Stand Start - On the right of the boulder

V1Boulder

1.17. Slackers Cave 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

The 'obvious' roof/cave below the Weakhold proper. Featured cave with glassy rock in places. The easiest way up is to follow the uphill track then head up the ramp to the eastern end of the cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V3

Start on the big jug and finish hanging from the big mossy jug. Award yourself three foam stars for softness if you soften or pike the finish (includes cleaning the jug!)

V3Boulder
2 1st V?

Line to big jug and into corner.

V?Boulder
3 2nd V?

Hard problem with interesting looking finish. Not a lot around the lip.

V?Boulder
4 * Buckets

Hang Start - Follow the buckets to stand on the ledge. Down climb or don the moss slippers for the top.

V2Boulder
5 3rd V?

Looks like a traverse either way may be on.

V?Boulder

1.18. International Traveller Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.096927, -42.739380

Description:

This boulder is about half way between the Stronghold and the Weakhold, and is easily visible from the road, with the steep left arête.

Approach:

As you reach the road from the access walk, turn right as if heading to Stronghold. After a minute of walking you'll spot the boulder uphill to your left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Top arete

Top arête - also usable as the downclimb.

VBBoulder
2 Top Face

Left side of top face. Start with thumbs in a mantle move.

V1Boulder
3 The Spaniards are Coming

The middle of the top face. SDS is possible.

V1Boulder
4 Arrogant American

Right hand side of top face. SDS is possible. Some big jugs.

V2Boulder
5 delete

whoops, think this climb is arrogant american. soz guys.

Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Traverse

Start with the same holds as Drunken German, move left to finish up the arête. No hands on the lower, less than vertical slab

V2Boulder
7 * Drunk German

Sit start up steep bottom arete, best line on the boulder. Needs a bit more cleaning at the top.

V3Boulder
8 Left Side

Left side of bottom face.

V?Boulder Project
9 Right Side

Right side of bottom face.

V?Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
VB Top arete Boulder 1.18. International Traveller Boulder
V0 Nice Flake Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
* Elvis Boulder 1.6. Elvis Boulder
** Moondance Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
V0 Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
Big Coins Boulder 1.8. Chronicle Boulder
V0 Boulder 1.9. Slabby Boulder
Wee Brown Monkey Boulder 1.10. Monkey Boulder
V0 sit Boulder 1.11. 8 Seconds Boulder
V0 stand Boulder 1.11. 8 Seconds Boulder
V0 Boulder 1.15. Politik Boulders
V1 Bum Hummers Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
* Nice Crack Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
V1 back Boulder 1.6. Elvis Boulder
V1 front Boulder 1.6. Elvis Boulder
V1 Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
V1 sit Boulder 1.9. Slabby Boulder
V1 stand Boulder 1.9. Slabby Boulder
V1 Boulder 1.10. Monkey Boulder
** Corner Crack Boulder 1.14. Corner Crack Wall
V1 Boulder 1.16. Caliginous Boulder
The Spaniards are Coming Boulder 1.18. International Traveller Boulder
Top Face Boulder 1.18. International Traveller Boulder
V2 ** Bonjour Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
Humming Bums Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
* The Seduction Traverse Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
* The double Traverse Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
V2 Boulder 1.6. Elvis Boulder
V2 Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
* Gnarly Monkey Boulder 1.10. Monkey Boulder
V2 Boulder 1.11. 8 Seconds Boulder
V2 Boulder 1.16. Caliginous Boulder
* Buckets Boulder 1.17. Slackers Cave
Arrogant American Boulder 1.18. International Traveller Boulder
Traverse Boulder 1.18. International Traveller Boulder
V3 * Atomised Boulder 1.1. The Book Thief Bloc
V3 Boulder 1.1. The Book Thief Bloc
** Ca va Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
V3 Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
* Illumination Traverse Boulder 1.3. Illumination Wall
** James Wishes he was a Frenchman Boulder 1.5. Extra Terrestrial
1st V3 Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
* 2nd V3 Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
* Rope a Dope Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
* Code Brown Boulder 1.10. Monkey Boulder
One Foot High Boulder 1.10. Monkey Boulder
* Double Dave Prow Boulder 1.13. Double Dave Prow
** Seam Boulder 1.15. Politik Boulders
* V3 Boulder 1.15. Politik Boulders
Caliginous Boulder 1.16. Caliginous Boulder
** Masons' Handshake Boulder 1.16. Caliginous Boulder
V3 Boulder 1.17. Slackers Cave
* Drunk German Boulder 1.18. International Traveller Boulder
V4 Low traverse Boulder 1.3. Illumination Wall
* Monkey gone to Heaven Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
* Common Problem Boulder 1.10. Monkey Boulder
V5 * Ca va Bien Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
** The Seduction of Silence Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
** There Where The Pepper Grows Boulder 1.2. Seduction Bloc
*** Everything is Illuminated Boulder 1.3. Illumination Wall
V5 Boulder 1.3. Illumination Wall
** Russian Doll Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
* V5 Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
* 8 Seconds Boulder 1.11. 8 Seconds Boulder
** V4/5 Boulder 1.14. Corner Crack Wall
*** Politik Boulder 1.15. Politik Boulders
V4/5 Boulder 1.15. Politik Boulders
V6 Pendulum Boulder 1.1. The Book Thief Bloc
*** Illuminatie Boulder 1.3. Illumination Wall
Rightly Illuminated Boulder 1.3. Illumination Wall
* V6 Boulder 1.3. Illumination Wall
** V5/6 Boulder 1.4. J'Aimerais Bien Francais
** The Doctor Boulder 1.8. Chronicle Boulder
** The Story of Death Foretold Boulder 1.8. Chronicle Boulder
* Eyes Wide Shut Boulder 1.15. Politik Boulders
V7 *** J'Aimerais Bien Francais Boulder 1.4. J'Aimerais Bien Francais
V8 Leftwards to Ruination Boulder 1.3. Illumination Wall
** Ruination Day Boulder 1.3. Illumination Wall
** Heartstarter Boulder 1.12. Heartstarter Wall
V9 *** Eco-Terrorist Boulder 1.1. The Book Thief Bloc
** Tales from outer Suburbia Boulder 1.10. Monkey Boulder
V10 *** The Book Thief Boulder 1.1. The Book Thief Bloc
? V? Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder
V-easy Boulder 1.9. Slabby Boulder
Ve Boulder 1.9. Slabby Boulder
delete Boulder 1.18. International Traveller Boulder
V Project Boulder Project 1.8. Chronicle Boulder
V? Eco-Terrorist Assis Boulder 1.1. The Book Thief Bloc
The God of small things Boulder 1.1. The Book Thief Bloc
Project Boulder 1.3. Illumination Wall
unknown Boulder 1.5. Extra Terrestrial
unknown 2 Boulder 1.5. Extra Terrestrial
V? Boulder 1.6. Elvis Boulder
Blindness Boulder 1.12. Heartstarter Wall
Project Boulder 1.15. Politik Boulders
1st V? Boulder 1.17. Slackers Cave
2nd V? Boulder 1.17. Slackers Cave
3rd V? Boulder 1.17. Slackers Cave
Left Side Boulder Project 1.18. International Traveller Boulder
Right Side Boulder 1.18. International Traveller Boulder
Ve * Juggy Crack Boulder 1.7. Agent Smith Block aka Rope Boulder