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Table of contents

1. Berowra 83 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.147728, -33.603305


Nice walls, some awesome climbing on top rock - about 3 mins walk to face from end of road. Nice open track, easy to find. Gets lots of sun all day. shade early morning and late sunsets. Watch out for brown snakes, particularly in summer. They've even been known to rest in pocket holds on some climbs. Don't forget to take bolt plates, certain climbs still require them.


Drive to the end of Wideview Rd. Follow firetrail down for 40m, down concrete section through cliffline then it swings around to the left. You can walk up a good track below Pimple buttress and along base.

Alternatively, to access south end of crag (e.g. Bullet Hole Wall), follow the bike track opposite No. 90 and follow the track off to the right. Follow to a ramp/scramble down to bring you out at Boundary Rider and Wall Thing on your right.


A Berowra specific climbing guide can be found here http://www.cragx.org/Berowraguide.pdf . However new routes have been set and certain routes have been abandoned or cut off.

1.1. Pimple Buttress 5 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.148755, -33.602428


The first bolted rock to the east of the eastern decent gully. (most eastern climbs)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A 17 Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Pimple

hard start (bolted) then a fairly easy trad finish. no lower off.

20 Mixed 10m, 2
3 Look Blue Go Purple

up the scoop

FA: Chris Yeomans & Dale Tweedie, 2005

18 Sport 10m, 3
4 It's For You

Initalled. easy but reachy. up past 1st carrot, then immediately R to arete and jugs up past 2nd bolt and L. There is a harder variant moving left to the centre of the wall clipping one bolt. 19?

Be cautious of anchor bolts. One can be wiggled by hand.

FA: James Holbrook, 1984

16 Sport 10m, 2
5 Taylor Made

Jug haul up past fixed hangers.

Start: 20m left of 'Cenotaph' Corner

FA: Julian Anderson, 2000

15 Sport 6m, 2

1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area 12 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.148001, -33.602899


Next main area as you walk in


30M R of Pimple buttress

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Savage Cabbage

thrutchy fiddly crack climb, lots of nuts for reassurance

FA: Scott Butler, James Holbrook, 1980

19 Trad 8m
2 Stone Grotties

Starts at the bottom of 'Cenotaph Corner'. often top roped.

16 Sport 8m
3 Cenotaph Corner

climb the obvious corner. beware of the brown snake that likes the top out jug on the left hand side.

seriously, beware in summer

Start: often used as the descent route

4 Trad 8m
4 B

Just right of 'Cenotaph Corner' is a slab wall with 2 decrepid old carrots.

climb up slab with difficulty.

FA: M. Law, 1980

25 Sport 9m, 2
5 ** Ladder of Gloom

traverse rightwards into the base of the obvious rock ladder. a bit of trickery makes it easier. stick clip first ring makes it better on the nerves. 4m right of Cenotaph Corner.

FA: Mike Law, James Holbrook, 1980

19 Sport 12m, 4
6 ** Ladder of Death

stick clip ring bolt, commiting dyno to jug, save a little for move into the ladder.

Start: direct start to 'Ladder of Gloom'

FA: Barry Jones, Steve Jones, Dave James, Julian Childs, 1994

22 Sport 10m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 The Mantle Machine

Start just right of the 'Barrelling section' of rock. move up leftwards mantling the overhangs to finish just right othe Ladder.

Start: 4m right of 'Ladder of Death'

14 Mixed 12m, 2
8 Medium Strip

It was always graded 19, not 20

FA: julian andersen

19 Sport 10m, 4
9 C 4 Mixed 12m, 1
10 ????

upp easy slab to enter the grooved ramp top out to finish. 1 carrot bolt where needed.

Start: 3m right of Mantle Machine

Easy to first bolt. Desparate to clip second bolt then even harder to get past it. Can't give it a grade as I failed!

10 Mixed 12m, 1
11 ??? #2

Up short steep black wall. first bolt was pulled when a climber rested on it and fell to the floor!!

the 2nd bolt is probably the same. should be rebolted or soloed with the bolt removed.

Start: where there bolt hole can be easily seen

Sport 6m, 1
12 Carrot Project

2m left of ringed project.

2 carrots on a totally blank section of beautiful rock

Sport 12m, 2

1.3. Cave of Soap 8 routes in Sector

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.147913, -33.603087

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sumo

a few long draws required, backjump or second to clean

FA: lloyd wishart

23 Sport 18m
2 ** Soap

the steep overhanging crack on the left side of the cave.

Start: left hand line in the big cave 30m right of mantle Machine

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980

23 Trad 15m
3 Dingo

Hard powerful climbing on an 'industrial' medium

Start: 2metres right of Soap

24 Sport 8m, 4
4 Hell Raisin'

another route from the industrial revolution

Start: 1metre right of 'Dingo'

26 Sport 8m, 4
5 ** Luv Handles

climb through steep terrain to finsh at the anchors of Raisin' Hell.

potential bad fall in to ledge around the 3rd bolt - don't blow it! belayers stay sharp! funky moves upside down and behind the head...

Start: 2metres right of Raisin' Hell

20 Sport 12m, 5
6 Timmy Time

As for Luv Handles, then step out across the void and continue 7m along the lip of the cave to finish at the lonely chain. Guaranteed to give you a whole body pump.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2014

22 Sport 15m, 2
7 D (Project) 28 Sport 12m
8 F (Dingo?) 26 Sport 8m

1.4. Blackboard Wall 16 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.147766, -33.603345

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 3D Wimp Out

climb steep arete then up head wall

Start: Right 'Arete' on the Cave of Soap

21 Sport 15m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Alison

climb up to cave then up thin top wall

Start: 1metre right of 3D Wimp Out

25 Sport 12m, 4
3 * The Red Menace

Climb up to cave, leave cave rightwards then up thin finish

Start: Start as for Alison

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

24 Sport 15m, 5
4 Gash

Climb up into pod shaped chimney, then struggle out to continue up crack. Not well travelled, fiddly gear placments.

Start: 3metres right of Alison

17 Trad 12m
5 ** Yesterday's Heroes

Bouldery start then up yet another thin finish. Very popular warmup

Start: 3m right of Gash.

17 Sport 12m, 4
6 * Palm Sunday

up yet another thin route

Start: 1m right of YH

21 Sport 15m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Samantha

strat up past to bolts then cams for the top. use lower offs for Dangerous Currents

Start: 2metres right of 'Palm Sunday'

FA: Scott Butler, James Holbrrok, 1980

20 Mixed 10m, 2
8 Dangerous Currants

directly up past 2 bolts. No sneaking out right.

Start: first route on elevated platform right of Samantha

FA: dan raison

22 Sport 6m, 2
9 Eccles

popular route, up thin crimps. will probably be the hardest route at the crag in 10 years if the holds keep disappearing

Start: Immediately right of Dangerous Currents

FA: Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler, James Holbrook, 1980

20 Sport 12m, 2

Solo?? up line right of 'Eccles'. use lower offs on 'Eccles' or top out. Take care on top out, may be loose & dirty!!!.

Start: right of 'Eccles'

20 R Trad 8m
11 ** Bill Collins

One word, Sharp!!

if you have leather tips, it's a shoe in. crimp up painful holds, clip anchors and cry. classic if you like that sort of thing

Start: Where the elevated platform drops.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

24 to 25 Sport 10m, 3
12 *** Sweet Cheeks

Starts 2m R of BC, and finish at anchors of the extended version of GV. Quite varied climbing for a wall and loads of finger shredding fun.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2014

26 Sport 11m, 3
13 * Gidget Verdon

hard start, even harder with the loss of a hold, originally 22.

up to 3rd bolt then move rightwards.

Start: 8 metres right of Bill Colins.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

22 Sport 15m, 3
14 * Gidget Verdon Variant Finish

start as for original but move leftwards at 3rd bolt to lower offs

FA: Mike Law, 1980

23 Sport 16m, 5
15 ** Butter Knives

an utterly desperate wall climb on tiny holds. Strong candidate for sandbag of the milleniium, originally graded 26, but latest talks have it at 28/29

Start: 4m right of Gidget

FA: Mike Law, 1980

28 Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Marsala

reputedly tough for the grade. either layback, jam or face climb - whatever floats your boat.

has been mistaken for the decent gully!!!

Start: Corner crack at the 'Blackboard' righthand end.

12 Trad 8m

1.5. Glamorpus Area 16 routes in Sector

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.147320, -33.603829


Far western side of Blackboard, 30m right

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Great Expectations

Start in the middle of the pocketed wall 12 m L of GOM. Swing around and on pockets to easy mantle finish.

Set by Tim Mayer, 27th Mar

FA: Tim Mayer, 1st Apr

Sport 8m, 4
2 Julian's Finest Hour

Up the black wall using very marginal gear placments.

Start: Start 8m left of 'Grumpy' 'Old Men'

FA: Julian Anderson, 1990

15 R Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Grumpy Old Men

climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. two bolts to lower off. bouldery.

Start: 4 metres left of 'Scones of Doom'

FA: Gavin Portier, 2009

23 Sport 9m, 2
4 Up The Duff

Up line of rings on short wall

Start: 2m left of cave

Called 'Up the Duff'

FA: Paul Duff

FA: Paul Duff, 1997

22 Sport 8m, 3
5 ** Scones of Doom

Up through the scoopy slopers to ledge (avoiding spinning RB). Back out and onto head wall (RB) and up to DRB lower-offs.

23 Sport 15m, 4
6 * Omnopox

through bulges to finish slightly left.

Reputedly tough for the grade, you decide.

Start: 2metres left of 'Glamorpus'

24 Sport 15m, 3
7 ** Glamorpus

awsome overhanging route

Start: nice little mantle then awsome climbing

24 Sport 18m
8 Glamour Mum

Picking the absolute worst of Glamopus and Are You My Mother. More Mantles thana display home estate. Do the mantle on 'Glamorpus' then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on Are You My Mother.

FA: Anthony Lin, 2000

22 Sport 12m, 5
9 Yummy Mummy

FA: Anthony Lind, 2009

22 Unknown 15m
10 *** Are You My Pussy

A fantastic pumpy route. picks the best bits of each route.Climb ARE YOU MY MOTHER to 2nd bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U bolt then finish up GLAMOURPUS

FA: Barry Jones, 2009

23 Sport 19m, 6
11 * Are You My Mother?

One for the tall people. Boulder upto bulge, commit for the throw then commit a bit more for the mantle. clip safety bolt and rest forever. tall people grab chipped finish hold, shorties - feet up with a little dead point for finishing hold

Start: 3m right of Glamourpus

25 Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 * Green Eggs and Ham 25 Sport 15m
13 Zooloft

Rightwards on slopiness then up nose

FA: Mike Law, 2011

18 Sport 12m, 6
14 Lentil Lollipops 9 Unknown 15m
15 Thank God It's Friday

As for NIBS but head straight up at 3rd B.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2014

25 Sport 10m, 4
16 Nights in Black Satin

Start as for LL and head R to big hold and two old carots, then power diagonally R finishing up SE.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2007

25 Sport 12m, 4

1.6. Bullet Hole Wall 12 routes in Sector

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.146914, -33.604105

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Scott's Edge

nice sequence to start then easy climbing for the rest

Start: little sequence that makes the climb

22 Sport 15m, 4
2 Comausminpab

through small roof then up wall, some cams may come in handy

Start: 2metres right of Scott's Edge

19 R Sport 12m, 3

Rooflet then sandy breaks.

Start: 1m right of 'Comausminpab'.

19 Sport 12m
4 * Fox Sox Pox

industrial anchors surrounded by a sea of pockets. A crag classic.

Start: 2 metres right of 'Comausminpab'

18 Sport 12m, 4
5 Natasha

Climb through pockets to tackle thin section around 3rd bolt to gain chain

Start: 3 metres right of Fox Sox Pox

22 Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 ** Looks Poxable

another crag classic. made even more so after rebolting. up through pockets then 'blank' wall to finish

Start: 1metre right of 'Natasha'

FA: Scott Butler, James Holbrook, 1980

21 Sport 15m, 4
7 my evil twin

traverse left from the base of mental fatigue D/S to the anchors of scott's edge

FA: Daniel da Silva

20 Boulder
8 * Mental Fatigue Direct Start

Go direct, left of the original start for MF, past two rings.

Start: 2m left of MF start

21 Sport 12m, 4
9 ** Mental Fatigue

nice crack with good underclings

18 Sport 13m
10 * Broken Candy

climb MF to second bolt then direct to top.

Start: as for 'Mental Fatigue'.

20 Sport 13m, 3
11 * Torque Is Cheap

Start 4m right (up slope) from 'Mental Fatigue'. Great wall climbing using some great holds and some small ones as well.

Gain the break then venture up the slab to finish

FA: Gavin Portier, 2009

22 Sport 10m, 3
12 * Nights in black satin

Start on left wall and up to big jug on prow. Up to 3rd blot on overhanging then head around arete to join the end of Scott's Edge.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2007

25 Unknown 15m

1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area 14 routes in Sector

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.146649, -33.604280

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Who Cares

steep start then up seam just right of arete. At the cave, head right (BR). Take care with pro.

Start: Left arete of nice orange wall.

19 Sport 12m
2 24'

Marked. Bouldery start (BR) then move past 2nd BR to break. easy going to the top.

Start: 3m left of the corner.

21 Sport 12m, 3
3 Project Tim Mayer

Start as for PAV but at the point it veers R, instead head L passed 3 RBs to join 24. Can use a cam if you feel the need

FA: Project Tim Mayer

Sport Project 15m
4 * Positive Ape Factor

Easy up the cracks then a huge reach to horizontal break. Take care up the final corner - it's quite hard and runout.

Start: Start: Below obvious orange corner.

22 Trad 12m
5 Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish)

Up PAF to right leading flake. Out flake past bolt.

Start: As for PAF.

21 Trad 10m
6 J (Ancient open project) ? Unknown 10m
7 K (Ancient open project) ? Unknown 10m
8 Closed project - TM

an old carrot line project, rebolted with rings 3m left of 'Daily Grind'. Closed Project Tim Mayer

Sport Project 12m, 4
9 * Daily Grind

Technical and runout. New button head bolts, careful with hangers (just replace with U's or rings one day). Start: Marked.

FA: @mikllaw, 1985

25 Sport 10m
10 Kenneth's Climb

Start: 2m right of DG, below cracks. Plenty of good protection - med/large cams and nut placements in the top half.

14 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Flake Thing 21 R Trad 12m
12 * Wall Thing

nice moves with good little crux. 3RB to anchors.

19 Sport 12m, 3
13 Boundary Rider

Stay left = 19.

18 Sport 10m, 4
14 Manufactured by Schweppes (solo)

the more commonly used access ramp / new carpark. 3m R of wall thing. has no doubt be done before (improv named)F.A. unknown. always soloed. be careful in the wet

4 Trad 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 C Mixed 12m, 1 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
Cenotaph Corner Trad 8m 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
Manufactured by Schweppes (solo) Trad 10m 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
9 Lentil Lollipops Unknown 15m 1.5. Glamorpus Area
10 ???? Mixed 12m, 1 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
12 Marsala Trad 8m 1.4. Blackboard Wall
14 The Mantle Machine Mixed 12m, 2 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
Kenneth's Climb Trad 10m 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
15 Taylor Made Sport 6m, 2 1.1. Pimple Buttress
15 R Julian's Finest Hour Trad 6m 1.5. Glamorpus Area
16 It's For You Sport 10m, 2 1.1. Pimple Buttress
Stone Grotties Sport 8m 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
17 A Sport 10m 1.1. Pimple Buttress
Gash Trad 12m 1.4. Blackboard Wall
** Yesterday's Heroes Sport 12m, 4 1.4. Blackboard Wall
18 Look Blue Go Purple Sport 10m, 3 1.1. Pimple Buttress
Zooloft Sport 12m, 6 1.5. Glamorpus Area
* Fox Sox Pox Sport 12m, 4 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
** Mental Fatigue Sport 13m 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
Boundary Rider Sport 10m, 4 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
19 ** Ladder of Gloom Sport 12m, 4 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
Medium Strip Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
Savage Cabbage Trad 8m 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
IGMC Sport 12m 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
* Wall Thing Sport 12m, 3 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
* Who Cares Sport 12m 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
19 R Comausminpab Sport 12m, 3 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
20 * Pimple Mixed 10m, 2 1.1. Pimple Buttress
** Luv Handles Sport 12m, 5 1.3. Cave of Soap
Eccles Sport 12m, 2 1.4. Blackboard Wall
Samantha Mixed 10m, 2 1.4. Blackboard Wall
* Broken Candy Sport 13m, 3 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
my evil twin Boulder 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
20 R JHTB Trad 8m 1.4. Blackboard Wall
21 * 3D Wimp Out Sport 15m, 4 1.4. Blackboard Wall
* Palm Sunday Sport 15m, 3 1.4. Blackboard Wall
** Looks Poxable Sport 15m, 4 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
* Mental Fatigue Direct Start Sport 12m, 4 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
24' Sport 12m, 3 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish) Trad 10m 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
21 R Flake Thing Trad 12m 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
22 ** Ladder of Death Sport 10m, 5 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
Timmy Time Sport 15m, 2 1.3. Cave of Soap
Dangerous Currants Sport 6m, 2 1.4. Blackboard Wall
* Gidget Verdon Sport 15m, 3 1.4. Blackboard Wall
Glamour Mum Sport 12m, 5 1.5. Glamorpus Area
Up The Duff Sport 8m, 3 1.5. Glamorpus Area
Yummy Mummy Unknown 15m 1.5. Glamorpus Area
Natasha Sport 12m, 4 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
* Scott's Edge Sport 15m, 4 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
* Torque Is Cheap Sport 10m, 3 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
* Positive Ape Factor Trad 12m 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
23 ** Soap Trad 15m 1.3. Cave of Soap
Sumo Sport 18m 1.3. Cave of Soap
* Gidget Verdon Variant Finish Sport 16m, 5 1.4. Blackboard Wall
*** Are You My Pussy Sport 19m, 6 1.5. Glamorpus Area
* Grumpy Old Men Sport 9m, 2 1.5. Glamorpus Area
** Scones of Doom Sport 15m, 4 1.5. Glamorpus Area
24 Dingo Sport 8m, 4 1.3. Cave of Soap
* The Red Menace Sport 15m, 5 1.4. Blackboard Wall
** Glamorpus Sport 18m 1.5. Glamorpus Area
* Omnopox Sport 15m, 3 1.5. Glamorpus Area
24 to 25 ** Bill Collins Sport 10m, 3 1.4. Blackboard Wall
25 B Sport 9m, 2 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
* Alison Sport 12m, 4 1.4. Blackboard Wall
* Are You My Mother? Sport 12m, 4 1.5. Glamorpus Area
* Green Eggs and Ham Sport 15m 1.5. Glamorpus Area
Nights in Black Satin Sport 12m, 4 1.5. Glamorpus Area
Thank God It's Friday Sport 10m, 4 1.5. Glamorpus Area
* Nights in black satin Unknown 15m 1.6. Bullet Hole Wall
* Daily Grind Sport 10m 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
26 F (Dingo?) Sport 8m 1.3. Cave of Soap
Hell Raisin' Sport 8m, 4 1.3. Cave of Soap
*** Sweet Cheeks Sport 11m, 3 1.4. Blackboard Wall
28 D (Project) Sport 12m 1.3. Cave of Soap
** Butter Knives Sport 12m, 4 1.4. Blackboard Wall
? ??? #2 Sport 6m, 1 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
Carrot Project Sport 12m, 2 1.2. Ladder of Gloom Area
Great Expectations Sport 8m, 4 1.5. Glamorpus Area
Closed project - TM Sport Project 12m, 4 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
Project Tim Mayer Sport Project 15m 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
J (Ancient open project) Unknown 10m 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area
K (Ancient open project) Unknown 10m 1.7. Positive Ape Factor Area