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Table of contents

1. Berowra 82 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.147728, -33.603305

Description:

Nice walls, some awesome climbing on top rock - about 3 mins walk to face from end of road. Nice open track, easy to find. Gets lots of sun all day. shade early morning and late sunsets. Watch out for brown snakes, particularly in summer. They've even been known to rest in pocket holds on some climbs. Don't forget to take bolt plates, certain climbs still require them.

Approach:

Drive to the end of Wideview Rd. Small, well defined track off to the NW will take you down to the top of the crag, and turn right (N) and follow top of crag along all the way to end. Easy walk down will bring you out at Taylor Made.

Alternatively, to access south end of crag (e.g. Bullet Hole Wall), follow the bike track opposite No. 90 and follow the track off to the right. Follow to a ramp/scramble down to bring you out at Boundary Rider and Wall Thing on your right.

History:

A Berowra specific climbing guide can be found here http://www.cragx.org/Berowraguide.pdf . However new roots have been set and certain roots have been abandoned or cut off.

1.1. Pimple Buttress 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.148755, -33.602428

Description:

The first bolted rock to the east of the eastern decent gully. (most eastern climbs)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A 17Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Pimple

hard start (bolted) then a fairly easy trad finish. no lower off.

20Mixed 10m, 2
3 Look Blue Go Purple

up the scoop

FA: Chris Yeomans & Dale Tweedie, 2005

18Sport 10m, 3
4 It's For You

Initalled. up past 2 bolts trending rightwards using the arete.

there is a variant finsh moving left to the fnetre of the wall clipping one bolt. same grade..

FA: Mike Law, 1980

18Sport 10m, 2
5 Taylor Made

Jug haul up past fixed hangers.

Start: 20m left of 'Cenotaph' Corner

FA: Julian Anderson, 2000

15Sport 6m, 2

1.2. Cenotaph Corner 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.148160, -33.602797

Description:

Commonly used as a ascent/decent route.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Savage Cabbage

thrutchy fiddly crack climb, lots of nuts for reassurance

FA: Scott Butler, James Holbrook, 1980

19Trad 8m
2 Stone Grotties

Starts at the bottom of 'Cenotaph Corner'. often top roped.

16 RTrad 8m
3 Cenotaph Corner

climb the obvious corner. beware of the brown snake that likes the top out jug on the left hand side.

seriously, beware in summer

Start: often used as the descent route

4Trad 8m
4 B

Just right of 'Cenotaph Corner' is a slab wall with 2 decrepid old carrots.

climb up slab with difficulty.

FA: M. Law, 1980

25Sport 9m, 2

1.3. Ladder of Gloom Area 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.148001, -33.602899

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Ladder of Gloom

traverse rightwards into the base of the obvious rock ladder. a bit of trickery makes it easier. stick clip first ring makes it better on the nerves. 4m right of Cenotaph Corner.

FA: Mike Law, James Holbrook, 1980

19Sport 12m, 4
2 ** Ladder of Death

stick clip ring bolt, commiting dyno to jug, save a little for move into the ladder.

Start: direct start to 'Ladder of Gloom'

FA: Barry Jones, Steve Jones, Dave James, Julian Childs, 1994

22Sport 10m, 5
3 The Mantle Machine

Start just right of the 'Barrelling section' of rock. move up leftwards mantling the overhangs to finish just right othe Ladder.

Start: 4m right of 'Ladder of Death'

14Mixed 12m, 2
4 Medium Strip

It was always graded 19, not 20

FA: julian andersen

19Sport 10m, 4
5 C 4Mixed 12m, 1
6 ????

upp easy slab to enter the grooved ramp top out to finish. 1 carrot bolt where needed.

Start: 3m right of Mantle Machine

Easy to first bolt. Desparate to clip second bolt then even harder to get past it. Can't give it a grade as I failed!

10Mixed 12m, 1
7 ??? #2

Up short steep black wall. first bolt was pulled when a climber rested on it and fell to the floor!!

the 2nd bolt is probably the same. should be rebolted or soloed with the bolt removed.

Start: where there bolt hole can be easily seen

Sport 6m, 1
8 Carrot Project

2m left of ringed project.

2 carrots on a totally blank section of beautiful rock

Sport 12m, 2

1.4. Cave of Soap 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.147913, -33.603087

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sumo 23Sport 18m
2 ** Soap

the steep overhanging crack on the left side of the cave.

Start: left hand line in the big cave 30m right of mantle Machine

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980

23Trad 15m
3 Dingo

Hard powerful climbing on an 'industrial' medium

Start: 2metres right of Soap

24Sport 8m, 4
4 Hell Raisin'

another route from the industrial revolution

Start: 1metre right of 'Dingo'

26Sport 8m, 4
5 ** Luv Handles

climb through steep terrain to finsh at the anchors of Raisin' Hell.

potential bad fall in to ledge around the 3rd bolt - don't blow it! belayers stay sharp! funky moves upside down and behind the head...

Start: 2metres right of Raisin' Hell

20Sport 12m, 5
6 D (Project) 28Sport 12m
7 F (Dingo?) 26Sport 8m

1.5. Blackboard Wall 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.147766, -33.603345

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 3D Wimp Out

climb steep arete then up head wall

Start: Right 'Arete' on the Cave of Soap

21Sport 15m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Alison

climb up to cave then up thin top wall

Start: 1metre right of 3D Wimp Out

25Sport 12m, 4
3 * The Red Menace

Climb up to cave, leave cave rightwards then up thin finish

Start: Start as for Alison

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

24Sport 15m, 5
4 Gash

Climb up into pod shaped chimney, then struggle out to continue up crack. Not well travelled, fiddly gear placments.

Start: 3metres right of Alison

17Trad 12m
5 * Yesterday's Heroes

Bouldery start then up yet another thin finish. Very popular warmup

Start: 3m right of Gash.

17Sport 12m, 4
6 * Palm Sunday

up yet another thin route

Start: 1m right of YH

21Sport 15m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Samantha

strat up past to bolts then cams for the top. use lower offs for Dangerous Currents

Start: 2metres right of 'Palm Sunday'

FA: Scott Butler, James Holbrrok, 1980

20Mixed 10m, 2
8 Dangerous Currants

directly up past 2 bolts. No sneaking out right.

Start: first route on elevated platform right of Samantha

FA: dan raison

22Sport 6m, 2
9 Eccles

popular route, up thin crimps. will probably be the hardest route at the crag in 10 years if the holds keep disappearing

Start: Immediately right of Dangerous Currents

FA: Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler, James Holbrook, 1980

20Sport 12m, 2
10 JHTB

Solo?? up line right of 'Eccles'. use lower offs on 'Eccles' or top out. Take care on top out, may be loose & dirty!!!.

Start: right of 'Eccles'

20 RTrad 8m
11 ** Bill Collins

One word, Sharp!!

if you have leather tips, it's a shoe in. crimp up painful holds, clip anchors and cry. classic if you like that sort of thing

Start: Start where elevated platform drops.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

24 to 25Sport 10m, 3
12 *** Sweet Cheeks

Starts 2m R of BC, and finish at anchors of the extended version of GV. Quite varied climbing for a wall and loads of finger shredding fun.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2014

26Sport 11m, 3
13 * Gidget Verdon

hard start, even harder with the loss of a hold, originally 22.

up to 3rd bolt then move rightwards.

Start: 8 metres right of Bill Colins.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

22Sport 15m, 3
14 * Gidget Verdon Variant Finish

start as for original but move leftwards at 3rd bolt to lower offs

FA: Mike Law, 1980

23Sport 16m, 5
15 ** Butter Knives

an utterly desperate wall climb on tiny holds. Strong candidate for sandbag of the milleniium, originally graded 26, but latest talks have it at 28/29

Start: 4m right of Gidget

FA: Mike Law, 1980

28Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Marsala

reputedly tough for the grade. either layback, jam or face climb - whatever floats your boat.

has been mistaken for the decent gully!!!

Start: Corner crack at the 'Blackboard' righthand end.

12Trad 8m

1.6. Pokey Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.147320, -33.603829

Description:

Far western side of Blackboard

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 G ?Sport 6m
2 Julian's Finest Hour

Up the black wall using very marginal gear placments.

Start: Start 8m left of 'Grumpy' 'Old Men'

FA: Julian Anderson, 1990

15 RTrad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Grumpy Old Men

climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. two bolts to lower off. bouldery.

Start: 4 metres left of 'Scones of Doom'

FA: Gavin Portier, 2009

23Sport 9m, 2
4 Up The Duff

Up line of rings on short wall

Start: 2m left of cave

Called 'Up the Duff'

FA: Paul Duff

FA: Paul Duff, 1997

22Sport 8m, 3

1.7. Glamorpus Area 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.147132, -33.603960

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Scones of Doom

Up through the scoopy slopers to ledge (avoiding spinning RB). Back out and onto head wall (RB) and up to DRB lower-offs.

23Sport 15m, 4
2 * Omnopox

through bulges to finish slightly left.

Reputedly tough for the grade, you decide.

Start: 2metres left of 'Glamorpus'

24Sport 15m, 3
3 ** Glamorpus

awsome overhanging route

Start: nice little mantle then awsome climbing

24Sport 18m
4 Glamour Mum

Picking the absolute worst of Glamopus and Are You My Mother. More Mantles thana display home estate. Do the mantle on 'Glamorpus' then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on Are You My Mother.

FA: Anthony Lin, 2000

22Sport 12m, 5
5 Yummy Mummy

FA: Anthony Lind, 2009

22Unknown 15m
6 *** Are You My Pussy

A fantastic pumpy route. picks the best bits of each route.Climb ARE YOU MY MOTHER to 2nd bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U bolt then finish up GLAMOURPUS

FA: Barry Jones, 2009

23Sport 19m, 6
7 * Are You My Mother?

One for the tall people. Boulder upto bulge, commit for the throw then commit a bit more for the mantle. clip safety bolt and rest forever. tall people grab chipped finish hold, shorties - feet up with a little dead point for finishing hold

Start: 3m right of Glamourpus

25Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 * Green Eggs and Ham 25Sport 15m
9 Zooloft / unknown

Now named and on rings

FA: Mike Law, 2011

18Sport 12m, 6
10 Lentil Lollipops 9Unknown 15m
11 Closed Project Tim Mayer

As for NIBS but head straight up at 3rd B.

FA: Project Tim Mayer

25Sport 10m
12 Nights in Black Satin

Start as for LL and head R to big hold and two old carots, then power diagonally R finishing up SE.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2007

25Sport 12m, 4

1.8. Bullet Hole Wall 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.146914, -33.604105

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Scott's Edge

nice sequence to start then easy climbing for the rest

Start: little sequence that makes the climb

22Sport 15m, 4
2 Comausminpab

through small roof then up wall, some cams may come in handy

Start: 2metres right of Scott's Edge

19 RSport 12m, 3
3 IGMC

Rooflet then sandy breaks.

Start: 1m right of 'Comausminpab'.

19Sport 12m
4 * Fox Sox Pox

industrial anchors surrounded by a sea of pockets. A crag classic.

Start: 2 metres right of 'Comausminpab'

18Sport 12m, 4
5 Natasha

Climb through pockets to tackle thin section around 3rd bolt to gain chain

Start: 3 metres right of Fox Sox Pox

22Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 ** Looks Poxable

another crag classic. made even more so after rebolting. up through pockets then 'blank' wall to finish

Start: 1metre right of 'Natasha'

FA: Scott Butler, James Holbrook, 1980

21Sport 15m, 4
7 my evil twin

traverse left from the base of mental fatigue D/S to the anchors of scott's edge

FA: Daniel da Silva

20Boulder
8 * Mental Fatigue Direct Start

Go direct, left of the original start for MF, past two rings.

Start: 2m left of MF start

21Sport 12m, 4
9 ** Mental Fatigue

nice crack with good underclings

18Sport 13m
10 * Broken Candy

climb MF to second bolt then direct to top.

Start: as for 'Mental Fatigue'.

20Sport 13m, 3
11 * Torque Is Cheap

Start 4m right (up slope) from 'Mental Fatigue'. Great wall climbing using some great holds and some small ones as well.

Gain the break then venture up the slab to finish

FA: Gavin Portier, 2009

22Sport 10m, 3
12 * Nights in black satin

Start on left wall and up to big jug on prow. Up to 3rd blot on overhanging then head around arete to join the end of Scott's Edge.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2007

25Unknown 15m

1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.146761, -33.604201

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Who Cares

steep start then up seam just right of arete. At the cave, head right (BR). Take care with pro.

Start: Left arete of nice orange wall.

19Sport 12m
2 24'

Marked. Bouldery start (BR) then move past 2nd BR to break. easy going to the top.

Start: 3m left of the corner.

21Sport 12m, 3
3 Project Tim Mayer

Start as for PAV but at the point it veers R, instead head L passed 3 RBs to join 24.

FA: Project Tim Mayer

Sport Project 15m
4 * Positive Ape Factor

Easy up the cracks then a huge reach to horizontal break. Take care up the final corner - it's quite hard and runout.

Start: Start: Below obvious orange corner.

22Trad 12m
5 * Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish)

Up PAF to right leading flake. Out flake past bolt.

Start: As for PAF.

21Trad 10m
6 J (Ancient open project) ?Unknown 10m
7 K (Ancient open project) ?Unknown 10m
8 Closed project - TM

an old carrot line project, rebolted with rings 3m left of 'Daily Grind'. Closed Project Tim Mayer

Sport Project 12m, 4
9 * Daily Grind

Technical and runout, with 2 manky BRs close together.

Start: Marked.

25Sport 10m
10 Kenneth's Climb

Start: 2m right of DG, below cracks. Plenty of good protection - med/large cams and nut placements in the top half.

14Trad 10m

1.10. Wall Thing Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.146649, -33.604280

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flake Thing 21 RTrad 12m
2 * Wall Thing

nice moves with good little crux. 3RB to anchors.

19Sport 12m, 3
3 Boundary Rider

Stay left = 19.

18Sport 10m, 4
4 * Manufactured by Schweppes (solo)

the more commonly used access ramp / new carpark. 3m R of wall thing. has no doubt be done before (improv named)F.A. unknown. always soloed. be careful in the wet

4Unknown 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Cenotaph Corner Trad 8m 1.2. Cenotaph Corner
C Mixed 12m, 1 1.3. Ladder of Gloom Area
* Manufactured by Schweppes (solo) Unknown 10m 1.10. Wall Thing Wall
9 Lentil Lollipops Unknown 15m 1.7. Glamorpus Area
10 ???? Mixed 12m, 1 1.3. Ladder of Gloom Area
12 Marsala Trad 8m 1.5. Blackboard Wall
14 The Mantle Machine Mixed 12m, 2 1.3. Ladder of Gloom Area
Kenneth's Climb Trad 10m 1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area
15 Taylor Made Sport 6m, 2 1.1. Pimple Buttress
Julian's Finest Hour Trad 6m 1.6. Pokey Wall
16 Stone Grotties Trad 8m 1.2. Cenotaph Corner
17 A Sport 10m 1.1. Pimple Buttress
Gash Trad 12m 1.5. Blackboard Wall
* Yesterday's Heroes Sport 12m, 4 1.5. Blackboard Wall
18 It's For You Sport 10m, 2 1.1. Pimple Buttress
Look Blue Go Purple Sport 10m, 3 1.1. Pimple Buttress
Zooloft Sport 12m, 6 1.7. Glamorpus Area
* Fox Sox Pox Sport 12m, 4 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
** Mental Fatigue Sport 13m 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
Boundary Rider Sport 10m, 4 1.10. Wall Thing Wall
19 Savage Cabbage Trad 8m 1.2. Cenotaph Corner
** Ladder of Gloom Sport 12m, 4 1.3. Ladder of Gloom Area
Medium Strip Sport 10m, 4 1.3. Ladder of Gloom Area
Comausminpab Sport 12m, 3 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
IGMC Sport 12m 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
* Who Cares Sport 12m 1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area
* Wall Thing Sport 12m, 3 1.10. Wall Thing Wall
20 Pimple Mixed 10m, 2 1.1. Pimple Buttress
** Luv Handles Sport 12m, 5 1.4. Cave of Soap
Eccles Sport 12m, 2 1.5. Blackboard Wall
JHTB Trad 8m 1.5. Blackboard Wall
Samantha Mixed 10m, 2 1.5. Blackboard Wall
* Broken Candy Sport 13m, 3 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
my evil twin Boulder 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
21 * 3D Wimp Out Sport 15m, 4 1.5. Blackboard Wall
* Palm Sunday Sport 15m, 3 1.5. Blackboard Wall
** Looks Poxable Sport 15m, 4 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
* Mental Fatigue Direct Start Sport 12m, 4 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
24' Sport 12m, 3 1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area
* Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish) Trad 10m 1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area
Flake Thing Trad 12m 1.10. Wall Thing Wall
22 ** Ladder of Death Sport 10m, 5 1.3. Ladder of Gloom Area
Dangerous Currants Sport 6m, 2 1.5. Blackboard Wall
* Gidget Verdon Sport 15m, 3 1.5. Blackboard Wall
Up The Duff Sport 8m, 3 1.6. Pokey Wall
Glamour Mum Sport 12m, 5 1.7. Glamorpus Area
Yummy Mummy Unknown 15m 1.7. Glamorpus Area
Natasha Sport 12m, 4 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
* Scott's Edge Sport 15m, 4 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
* Torque Is Cheap Sport 10m, 3 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
* Positive Ape Factor Trad 12m 1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area
23 ** Soap Trad 15m 1.4. Cave of Soap
Sumo Sport 18m 1.4. Cave of Soap
* Gidget Verdon Variant Finish Sport 16m, 5 1.5. Blackboard Wall
* Grumpy Old Men Sport 9m, 2 1.6. Pokey Wall
*** Are You My Pussy Sport 19m, 6 1.7. Glamorpus Area
** Scones of Doom Sport 15m, 4 1.7. Glamorpus Area
24 Dingo Sport 8m, 4 1.4. Cave of Soap
* The Red Menace Sport 15m, 5 1.5. Blackboard Wall
** Glamorpus Sport 18m 1.7. Glamorpus Area
* Omnopox Sport 15m, 3 1.7. Glamorpus Area
24 to 25 ** Bill Collins Sport 10m, 3 1.5. Blackboard Wall
25 B Sport 9m, 2 1.2. Cenotaph Corner
* Alison Sport 12m, 4 1.5. Blackboard Wall
* Are You My Mother? Sport 12m, 4 1.7. Glamorpus Area
Closed Project Tim Mayer Sport 10m 1.7. Glamorpus Area
* Green Eggs and Ham Sport 15m 1.7. Glamorpus Area
Nights in Black Satin Sport 12m, 4 1.7. Glamorpus Area
* Nights in black satin Unknown 15m 1.8. Bullet Hole Wall
* Daily Grind Sport 10m 1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area
26 F (Dingo?) Sport 8m 1.4. Cave of Soap
Hell Raisin' Sport 8m, 4 1.4. Cave of Soap
*** Sweet Cheeks Sport 11m, 3 1.5. Blackboard Wall
28 D (Project) Sport 12m 1.4. Cave of Soap
** Butter Knives Sport 12m, 4 1.5. Blackboard Wall
? ??? #2 Sport 6m, 1 1.3. Ladder of Gloom Area
Carrot Project Sport 12m, 2 1.3. Ladder of Gloom Area
Closed project - TM Sport Project 12m, 4 1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area
Project Tim Mayer Sport Project 15m 1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area
G Sport 6m 1.6. Pokey Wall
J (Ancient open project) Unknown 10m 1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area
K (Ancient open project) Unknown 10m 1.9. Positive Ape Factor Area