A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Mt Ku-ring-gai 138 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.123960, -33.627035

Description:

The area was rediscovered by Rod Wills in late 2003 although a couple of manky carrots were found at a couple of locations on Motocross wall. Rod and his cousin Vanessa started development at Fossil wall and moved north. The area has been set up well with few scary clips and would suit budding leaders. There are also enough harder routes to keep climbers entertained and potential for new lines.

Drive to the end of Beaumont Road, Mount Kuring-gai and park. See location map for various wall locations.

Midges!!! Make sure you pack your insect repellent otherwise you will levae looking like you have chicken pox. The Midge season is from November to April but you may find them outside these times.

Approach:

To get to the crags Gundah Ridge track is the main route in. Cairns have been setup along the track to mark where to turn off. However people have been knocking the cairns over, so beware.

1.1. Fossil Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.125648, -33.633445

Description:© (rodw)

This wall is located 5 minute walk down hill from parking area. Easy climbs on good rock, if your climbing sub 20's this is the area for you.

The foot of the wall is heavily covered in ferns but the climbs are worth the small bush bash at the base. There are occasionally leeches but Aeroguard keeps them away.

Approach:© (rodw)

Head west over embankment near a water drain and follow the faint watercourse downhill for 200m to reach cliff top. Small cairns mark the route to the cliff top. Turn right and scramble down.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 King Kyle

2.5m L of VTV. Up past 2 RB finishing at same anchors as VTV. One move wander

FA: Tim Mayer, 2010

23Sport 6m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Vanstone the Vampire

Up short wall. 2 RB's to lower offs.

Start: Just right of descent gully.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

16Sport 7m, 2
3 Children Overboard

Up thin face. 2 RB's to lower offs.

Start: Left most climb on the main wall

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

22Sport 7m, 2
4 Political Prisoner

Straight up over two breaks. Add a grade if your short. 2RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m right of CO

FA: Rod Wills, 2003

17Sport 7m, 2
5 Ruddock the Ring Wraith

Follow crimpy breaks to slab. 3RB's to lower offs.

Start: 1m rt of PP

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

20Sport 12m, 3
6 * The Mind has Mountains

Hard start up pockets then tending right over bulge. 3RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of RTRR

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2003

20Sport 12m, 3
7 ** Captain Underpants and the Attack of the Wicked Wedgie Woman

First route at Mt K. Up pockets to follow diagonal break over bulge. Pumpier than it looks. 3 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of TMHM

FA: Rod wills, 2003

18Sport 11m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Professor Poopy Pants

Diagonal line of bolts. Short but stout. 3RB's to lower off.

Start: 7m rt of CUATAOTWWW

FA: rod wills, 2004

20Sport 8m, 3
9 * On any Given Sunday

Start: Start 3m right of 'Open project', for a more interesting start, and finish on Political Prisoner. 3 bolts to start, and an extra bolt along the way mean that the sports bunnies can now be spared the need for trad gear

FA: 2013

17Sport 29m, 13
10 Open Project

Up splitter crack. 4RB's to lower offs. Equipped by Vanessa.

Start: 2m rt of PPP

Sport 10m, 4
11 Working From Home

Rising traverse following ledge/break/crack all the way to finish anchors for 'Ruddock the Ring Wraith'. Done in two pitches, belay at Captain Underpants.

Start: Start at 'Legoland'

FA: Andrew Ingles, Colin Larter

16Trad 50m
12 Legoland

A good route for people starting to lead as all the bolts are easy to clip. Up obvious line of several ledges. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 15m rt of PPP

FA: Vanessa wills, 2003

16Sport 15m, 4
13 Elbow Abrasions

A good link up (or escape from UM crux). Up as for UM then step left after mantle at 3rd bolt, to finish up 'Legoland'. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of LL

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2003

16Sport 15m, 4
14 * Unguarded Moment

Great technical climbing up improbable line. Up slabby face to mantle, stepping rt to crux move over bulge. Harder if your short. 4RBs to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of LL

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

21Sport 14m, 4

1.2. Middle Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.124982, -33.631592

Description:© (rodw)

Approx 15m high slab on the left end with short steep 8-10 metre section o the right hand end.

Approach:© (rodw)

Halfway along mesh fence of Motocross compound is a large gum tree, turn left and follow cairns down through the bush to the top of the crag. Best access is down left side facing wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Best of the Shaved

Step left at 2nd bolt then up. 4 RB's to lower offs

Start: Start as for CFZ

FA: David Filan, 2007

19Sport 8m
2 * Care Factor Zero

Left side of slab. 3 RB's to lower offs.

Start: Left side of slab.

FA: Rod Wills, 2007

18Sport 9m
3 * Ecstatic Addict

Up centre of wall left side of obvious feature. 3 RB's to lower offs

Start: 3m rt of CFZ

FA: Kevn Van Tilburg, 2007

18Sport 10m
4 * Midge Madness

Up centre of wall on right side of obvious feature.4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of EA.

FA: V Wills, 2004

21Sport 10m
5 Well it Ain't Everest

Steep start to slabby finish, lowers offs over ledge. 2 RB's to shared lower offs (or walk off).

Start: 8m rt of Pr.

FA: Rod Wills, 2007

17Sport 7m
6 Well it Ain't K2

Steep start to slabby finish, lowers offs over ledge. 2 RB's to shared lower offs (or walk off).

Start: 2m rt of WIAE.

FA: Rod Wills, 2007

17Sport 7m
7 Project

Project stay off, right side of cave, tending straight up out of cave.2 RB's to lower offs

Start: Same start as for Pr

Sport 6m

1.3. Moto Cross wall 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.124696, -33.628316

Description:© (rodw)

Long broken wall of approx 100 metres in length, ranging in height from 10-15 metres. From Slab to roofs its got it all.

Approach:© (rodw)

Continue past locked gate along the fire trail to motcross course. Veer left along Gundah ridge track for 5 minutes until it takes a sharp right turn. Here take a foot track on your left to the cliff top and scramble down gully. You will hit the cliff base at "The Grudge" Update** Cairns are clearly marked on the Gundah Ridge track where you need to turn. However people have been knocking the cairns over. Beware.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Grudge

Staight up face on wall directly after access gully. 4RB's. Top out, belay off tress at the top.

Start: In walk down gully.

FA: rod wills, 2004

18Sport 10m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Extinction Never Felt So Good

Up over two ledges to face and crux. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 15m rt of TG on next prominant wall.

FA: Rod Wills, 2004

17Sport 10m, 4
3 Dinosaurs must die

Up left side of cave onto tricky face. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of ENFSG

FA: rod wills, 2004

19Sport 12m, 4
4 Life On Hold

Hard start. Up right side of slab over small rooflet and onto slab. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2n rt of LOH

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2003

20Sport 10m, 4
5 Petrified Wood

Up corner block through break over roof. Will it ever get repeated? 2RB's to shared lower offs with LOH.

Start: 2m rt of LOH.

FA: V Wills, 2003

20Sport 9m, 2
6 A dream, nothing more

Up corner crack (RB), then to up easy corner, placing gear if neeeded.

Start: At corner rt of PW.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2003

15Trad 9m
7 Fossilized thought

Boulder up face left of corner crack, step across right to face. Then easily up slab to hard finish. Bridging in the corner up high only gets you 15. 3RB's to lower offs.

Start: Start as for ADNM

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2003

18Sport 10m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 ** Ragged Claws

Over bulge, onto slab then thin face. RB's to lower offs.

Start: Start middle of next face around arete.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

24Sport 15m
9 ** Rains of Destiny

Start 3m R of RC on the obvious crack. Up to Ledge, and then hit the wall and enjoy some big moves on some nice small crimps, finishing on DRB’s on headwall.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2014

25Sport 12m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 ** Screams of Pashion

Start: Start on bulging ramp about 1.5m left of Pinkie Shredder. Up ramp jump or power to big hole, and then fire up and left on small crimps and bad footers. Classic.

FA: 2013

25Sport 15m, 5
11 Pinkie Shredder

Straight up large obvious splitter crack.

Start: On the next wall

FA: duanne white, liz drummond, 2005

18Trad 10m
12 ** The Devil Inside

Bouldery start up prow then onto to thin techy face. 4RB's to lower offs

Start: 1m rt of PS.

FA: V Wills, 2004

23Sport 15m, 4
13 ** Heresey

Crimpy classic my all accounts. Bouldery start over bulge onto face. 5RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of TDI

FA: rod wills, 2004

22Sport 15m, 5
14 Project (closed)

Up wall and arete, 3 Rb's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of H.

FA: Project by Josh, 2000

Sport 15m, 3
15 Project- Josh Sport
16 Goblin Grotto

Up crack, aidthrough roof up small gully tending left over boulders to top

Start: Start in grotto/cave thing left of 'Goofy Foot'

FA: Colin Larter

15 A2Aid 15m
17 Goofy Foot

Up right side of "cave" through jug to top.

Start: 2m rt of GG

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

19Sport 10m
18 Babsgotabz

8m R of GF. Over ledge through middle of "wave" shaped wall. One move Crux weird and high dependent.

FA: Equipped by Vanessa, 2000

FFA: Heath Millard, 2013

24 RSport 15m, 5
19 Malibu Rider

Start as for open project, (cam i break if needed) then traverse rt acroos slab (RB) to corner crack then easily up to lower offs.

FA: V Wills, 2004

16Trad 10m
20 Grommet

Direct start to MR, straight p crack, lower offs at the top.

Start: Start as for MR

FA: V Wills, J Caple, 2004

17Trad 12m
21 Project (Josh) Unknown 14m
22 Skank

1m R of G. Up through rooflet to shallow corner.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2007

21Sport 10m, 3
23 Guns, Germs and Steel

The slab to the small bulging crack line.

Start: 5m past cave

FA: Luke Atkinson, 2004

17Trad 10m
24 Unfinished project

Up through some very hard territory in the middle of the cave. Stil needs another bolt.

Start: Middle of cave

FA: Equipped by Josh, 2000

Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 Ball Buster

Up face and left side of weakness. 3U's to lower offs.

FA: Equipped: Vanessa Wills, FA: Tim Mayer, 2007

23Sport 12m, 3
26 * Somewhere Down The Barrel

Up orange face and weakness. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 5m rt of GGAS

FA: Elliot Braham, 2004

21Sport 12m, 4

1.4. Pit Stop Boulder 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.124062, -33.628524

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vanity of Toil V2Boulder
2 Arachnid Insanity V3Boulder
3 It's My Birthday and I'll Send If I Want To V1Boulder

1.5. Faraway Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.123185, -33.628194

Description:© (rodw)

One of the best areas at MtK with good rock to 20m height. Also features a great outlook over 'Berowra' creek.

Approach:© (rodw)

From Motocross wall, opposite Dinosaurs Must Die, head downhill on a cairned path. Halfway down you will pass a large boulder on your left. At the cliff top turn left until you hit some rock ramps that will bring you to the right hand end of the climbing area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sapphire Bullets of Pure Love

Up middle of orange streak on great rock and holds. 2 U's to lower offs

Start: 'Access' is agined by walking around to left under chossy roof at far left of crag. Scramble up to top of block. alternaively solo up chimney but it's harder than the route.

FA: Jason Lammers

10Sport 8m
2 Birdhouse in Your Soul

Stick clip 1st bolt and launch out and up, to finish as for SBOPL. Dont blow second clip as could result in a grounder. 2 Y's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of SBOPL

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

21Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Low voltage

Up middle of face to lower offs at halfway. 2 RB's to lower offs

Start: On the next face.

FA: rod wills, 2004

18Sport 9m, 2
4 * High Voltage

Extension to LV, continuing straight up the face. 6RB's to lower offs

Start: 'Extension' to LV,straight up

FA: Daniel webster, 2007

24Sport 18m, 6
5 * Death Adder

Through roof then step left to arete and up before traversing out right across lip of cave and up to anchors. 5RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m rt of LV under roof.

FA: V Wills, 2004

19 RSport 15m, 5
6 ** New Ways of Living

Up to RH face to thread/bollard runner, step left across corner/crack to 1st bolt (hidden from ground - long draw). Follow juggy step face to anchors. 5RB's to lower offs.

Start: 5m rt of DA

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2005

20Sport 13m, 5
7 The Angry Goblin

Up corner crack/crack, under roof, finish at anchors for TDCOM. Be wary of loose rock when pulling on rock, belayer should wear a helmet.

Start: Start a for NWOL

FA: Colin Larter

18 XTrad 15m
8 * The Dark Con Of man

Up middle face tending right at start through fun pumpy moves down low. Intially bolted by Rod who eventually admitted defeat and gave it to Vanessa. 8 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m rt of TAG

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

22Sport 18m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 *** Vitruvian Man

Up stepped arete to sit down rest. Blast up and right past a dynamic move to reach scoop and up beautiful orange face. 6U's to lower offs.

Start: 6m rt of TDCOM

FA: HawkMan

23Sport 18m, 6
10 *** The Memory Cathedral

Straight up right side of orange face and scoop to finish as for VM. 5U's to lower offs.

Start: 3m rt of VM

FA: V Wills, 2004

22Sport 16m, 5
11 The Happy Goblin

Up corner/crack

Start: 1m rt of MC

FA: Colin Larter

10Trad 15m
12 * Kiss and Make up

Straight up face btw coner and cave. 4RB's to lowers

Start: 1m rt of THG

FA: Greg Hislop

22Sport 12m, 4
13 The Mischievous Leprechaun

Start in cave, swing up and out of cave then up crack. Very little protection for top half.

Start: 2m left of Peruvian Love Child.

FA: Colin Larter., 2009

16 RTrad 10m
14 Peruvian love Child

Up left side of shorter wall, 2m rt of cave. 2RB's to lower offs.

Start: 4m rt of KAMU

FA: rod wills, 2004

14Sport 9m, 2
15 Phyto-bezoar

Up juggy crack in middle of shorter wall.

Start: 4m rt of PLC.

FA: Vanessa Wills (solo), 2004

9Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Chilly in Chile

Up thin face past packets. 2 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m rt of Pb

FA: V Wills, 2004

20Sport 8m, 2
17 Istanbul (Not Constantinople)

Pocket to edge then up jugs, nice moves. Add a grade if you're short. 2 RB's to lower offs

Start: 3m rt of CIC

FA: Jason Lammers

16Sport 8m, 2

1.6. Lost & Found Wall 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.123642, -33.624048

Unique Features And Strengths:© (rodw)

This crag consists of face, overhang and slab so it has a bit of everything. Most certainly the choice crag out of the lot in this area so well worth the effort put into the walk in and hike out.

Description:© (rodw)

An extensive area of around 200m of broken cliff lines 8-20m high.

Amazing views of the river below, brilliant climbs and well bolted, steeps to slabs, it has it all!

Access Issues:© (rodw)

Follow fire trail around to right after Motocross wall access gully then left along walking trail along ridge line down the hill. Turn off main walkway (marked cairns) to rock shelf, look over edge and follow cairns down to Lost & Found Wall. Can also be accesed from 'Faraway Wall', from the top turning right (instead of left) along cliff top to gap to big cave, then down the hill.

Or follow Gundeh Ridge Track past the motor cross track. Once at the bend follow the dog leg bend to the right and on your left you'll see a prominent fire trail. This fire trail will turn into a hiking trail. Follow the cairns and in approx. 20 mins you'll be there but make sure to put your harness on to get through the final stages of the access gully. Rope in place to hook in to.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Shoe Lizard

Crawl up through hole then up good hand crack to ledge.

Start: Start at far left end of Furnace Environs in little cave under block.

Note Shoe Lizard to The Welsh Route are all at the Furnace Environs which is around 50m past lactose free slightly up the hill.

FA: Colin Larter, 2008

17Trad 12m
2 Hot Flake 9Unknown 8m
3 * Solar Flare

Up pocketed face down low following flake at the top.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

22Sport 15m
4 Great Balls of Fire

Sharp edgy face to bigger holds and ledge, up thru orange top section

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

22Sport 15m
5 The Welsh Route

Up cracks on left side of gully

Start: At the right end of Furnace Environs.

FA: Bryony Ruscoe, 2007

10Trad 8m
6 Bumphlegm

Scramble up short chimney to top of block. Up seam to top.

Start: At base of big block 3m left of 'Goblin Horde'.

FA: Colin Larter, 2007

15Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Goblin Horde

Start: Chimney 1m left of Lactose Free.

FA: Colin Larter, 2007

8Trad 10m
8 Lactose free

Straight up featured face.

FA: Rod Wills, 2005

16Sport 13m
9 Ding bat

2m right of Lactose Free, up juggy wall.

FA: Kevin Van tilburg, 2005

14Sport 11m
10 Pig Shootin'

Start: 15m right of project past cave around corner. Trad route up nice looking crack with bomber pro.

FA: Dale Tweedie, 2004

13Trad 15m
11 ** Bummagedon

Start: 3m right of PS, up steep scoops over bulge.

FA: Rod Wills, 2005

20Sport 15m
12 * Tingles

Start just right of Bummagedon and left of the crack. Directly up the wall.

FA: Bundy, 2008

21Sport 16m
13 Kodak Moment

Trad route up a nice looking crack

FA: Elliot Braham, 2004

15Trad 15m
14 Flash the ugly pony

Start: 2m right of gully. Up corner, across mossy slab, rest in cave, then mount the pony. Awkward moves past 2 bolts to tree (or rap from last bolt). Probably best to place long sling oon second last bolt on rappel before starting this route.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

22Sport 12m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 * Dog Beta

Start: left side of cave step left at 2nd bolt then up to ledge, step right to shared anchors

FA: V Wills, 2006

22Sport 15m
16 * Dead Letter Office

Start: As for Dog Beta, then straight up past left of smaller higher cave to lower offs

FA: V Wills

22Sport 15m
17 Lichen A virgin Dog

Start: as for IADL, then left at 1st bolt. Straight up above cave to shared lower off with DLO.

FA: Tony Tang, 2006

18Sport 15m
18 * Its A Dogs Life

Up middle of face just right of small cave, over ledge to slab.

FA: Rod wills, 2006

19Sport 15m
19 ** Foundlings

Start 2m right of IADL, up past thin flake to arête.

FA: V Wills, 2006

17Sport 15m
20 Lost property

Start 2m right of F. Up obvious crack tending left to finish up arête of Foundlings.

FA: V Wills, T Tang, 2006

15Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 ** Woken Furies

Start: Up hill in big cave. Up steep wall on left hand side.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

19Sport 10m
22 STW

Up steep terain over small roof to lower offs. 3 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m rt of WF

FA: Andrew Fell, 2007

20Sport 6m
23 Roxie and Matey go Quantity Surveying

Start: On slab wall just right of big cave and left of Scorpion. Up slab to short steep headwall.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

20Sport 12m
24 Scorpion

Start: The route in the middle of the slab right of big cave. Slab to short steep headwall.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

18Sport 13m
25 Brokerib Mountain

Start: 2m right of Scorpion. Slab to short steep headwall. Clipping the rings is rather hard for a 14.

FA: rod wills, 2006

14Sport 12m
26 Worth the walk?

Obvious off width roof crack. Not the most glorious of routes, but fun little moves and surprisingly easy.

Start: 20m left of Bill.

FA: Greg Hislop, 2008

15Trad 6m
27 Bill

Wide Flared Crack. mmmm, sounds great !

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

14Trad 10m
28 Ben

Start: 2m right of B. Up crack with a steepish start.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

17Trad 10m
29 Intelligent Design

Mantle start, straight up blunt arête.

FA: Rod wills, 2006

16Sport 9m
30 Evolution

Start: 2m right of arête. Tending left to shared anchors. (staying off arête until3rd bolt)

FA: Rod wills, 2006

17Sport 9m
31 The Meaning Of Life

Straight up middle of slab.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

15Sport 11m
32 * Hello to Fear

Best protected by placing a long sling from the 3rd bolt after doing FTF. Takes the low traverse via tiny holds and pockets then thinly up to rejoin FTF at prominent horizontal break

Start: Off block as for 'Dendrobium'

FA: V Wills, 2009

24Unknown 15m
33 * Farewell to Fear

Start: up on ledge right of big cave. Step left at 2nd bolt traversing left then up arête.

FA: V Wills, 2006

19Sport 15m
34 ** Dendrobium

Start: for as FTF. Bridging up orange face to airy headwall. 6Rb's to lowers offs. (Do not use higher second set of lower offs as rock there could be unstable.)

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

18Sport 12m
35 Ficus

Start: Up easy corner right of Dendrobium. Sounds like another classic !!

FA: Vanessa Wills (solo), 2006

9Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
36 ** Siliconciousness

Start: Right of F on main face Up past balancy flake following orange streak.

FA: Vnessa Wills, 2006

22Sport 14m
37 *** Carbon Credits

Start: 5m right of S. Up thin face onto sharp arête and continue up to the top.

FA: V Wills, 2007

24Sport 16m
38 ** She Who Must be Obeyed

Start: 5m right of Pr. Middle of wall following obvious ramp. 8 RB's to DRB.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

20Sport 20m
39 * Tickfest

Start: 5m right of SWMBO. Hard start up through shallow cave to head wall.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

22Sport 20m
40 * Aerospace

Start: 2m right of Tickfest. Straight up faint arête tending left at the top. Slightly run out at the top. 5BR's to lower offs.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

18Sport 16m
41 * Black Box

Start: 2m right of Aerospace, straight up the face.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

21Sport 15m
42 Wing Commander

Start: 2m right of BB, straight up the face on big holds. 4 RB's to shared lower offs.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

17Sport 15m
43 * Zozo the Mandarin Fiend

Start: 100m right of WC, past big cave, Up obvious right leaning orange crack to top.

FA: Vanessa Wills, Anthony Geogheghan, 2007

18Trad 16m

1.7. The Underworld 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.122223, -33.628531

Description:© (rodw)

Shortish slabby wall around 10m high with steeper stuff on the left hand end.

Approach:© (rodw)

At Faraway wall as soon as you scamble down access cliff to base, head left along base of cliff for 50-100m then head straight down the hill.

Alternatively if at lost and found just keep heading along cliff line for about 300m after zozo..either way bit of a bush bash

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Summer Roll For Your Soul

Fun jug hauling and mantling.

Start: Up left side of weakness

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2008

17Sport 8m, 4
2 * Hard Candy

Up right crack, onto face at first bolt and straight up face.

Start: 2m rt of SRFYS.

FA: Rod Wills, 2008

18Sport 8m, 4
3 Project - Dave

Start: 4m rt of HC

Sport 7m, 3
4 Shrinky Dink

Up crack stepping right onto face at 3rd bolt and up.

Start: 1m rt of crack up arete

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2008

14Sport 7m, 3
5 * Final Atonement

2m rt SD, up blank face. Fingery start top bouldery finish.

FA: Rod Wills, 2008

18Sport 8m, 3
6 Project -Kev

Start: 5m rt of FA, lt side of shallow cave in middle of wall.

Sport 7m, 3
7 Crapola

Left side of cave onto blank slab.

Start: 10m rt of Pr-Kev,

FA: Rod Wills, 2008

16Sport 7m, 3

1.8. The Very Far, Far Away Crag 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Approach:

Continue following the broken cliff lines north east of The Furnace for about 10 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 WOMBAT 20Sport 20m, 5
2 * Snakes and Ladders 18Trad 20m
3 Hey Man Nice Shot 17Trad
4 Bandicute 18Trad

1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.129211, -33.628784

Description:

Small sector around 6-10 m in height, so don't expect soaring lines, but is good rock and Bouldery routes for the grades.Biggest bonus is shady in the afternoon giving Mt k a summer arvo option as it is east facing. Climbs described right to left.

Approach:

15-20mins from car park. Walk as for motocross wall but rather then hanging a left when fore trail turns follow around to the right following outer motocross trail. (Note if motocross are going stay off track)...after about 150 metres following yellow tagged trees track down to crag (about 300m)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Victory Beers

Up right side of face to anchors

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 29th Sep

13Sport 7m, 2
2 La Mer

Up middle of first wall, harder than it looks

FFA: Rod Wills, 28th Sep

15Sport 7m, 2
3 Point and Click

Next climbs start on detached block. Right side of block just left of mossy streak. Tricky start getting easier the higher you go.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 28th Sep

15Sport 7m, 2
4 Hyperpower

Up middle of detached slab

FFA: Rod Wills, 28th Sep

16Sport 7m, 2
5 Project - Rod3

2m Lt of H, bouldery start up short technical face.

Sport Project 7m, 2
6 Spentmember September

2nd most left route on detached bolder.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 15th Sep

15Sport 7m, 2
7 2014: a rock odyssey

Left most route on detached boulder, using arete and face.

FFA: Jordan Mansfield, 5th Oct

16Sport 7m, 2
8 Sweet ‘n tasty

Back onto main wall proper. Straight up middle of techy slab

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 10th Aug

18Sport 8m, 3
9 Deceive with belief

1m Lt of SNT - , up obvious over angled corner feature to shared anchors

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 10th Aug

16Sport 8m, 3
10 Ruiner

Traverse left along low angled feature onto arete and up to shared anchors, can go straight up as well from below first bolt @ the same grade.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2014

16Sport 8m, 3
11 Project - Rod 2

It might be short but it is stout, straight up blunt arete.

Sport 6m, 2
12 Project - kev 3

2m lt of Project - Rod 1, up thin face to anchors.

Sport 6m, 2
13 Zero Sum

Up right side of slab, mantle to shared anchors

FFA: Rod Wills, 2014

9Sport 7m, 2
14 Fuck or Jump

1m lt of ZS,Up middle of slab tending tending right up blunt flake & mantle to shared anchors

FFA: David Filan, 2014

12Sport 8m, 3
15 Different Stroke

2m lt if FOJ, stright up blunt arete

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 28th Sep

19Sport 7m, 2
16 Meet Your Master

Up face past couple of big pockets to crux to victory jug.

FFA: Rod Wills, 5th Oct

17Sport 8m, 3
17 Project - Rod4

Up left leaning crack onto flake and up.

Sport Project 8m, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
8 Goblin Horde Trad 10m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
9 Phyto-bezoar Trad 8m 1.5. Faraway Wall
Ficus Trad 12m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Hot Flake Unknown 8m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Zero Sum Sport 7m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
10 Sapphire Bullets of Pure Love Sport 8m 1.5. Faraway Wall
The Happy Goblin Trad 15m 1.5. Faraway Wall
The Welsh Route Trad 8m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
12 Fuck or Jump Sport 8m, 3 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
13 Pig Shootin' Trad 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Victory Beers Sport 7m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
14 Peruvian love Child Sport 9m, 2 1.5. Faraway Wall
Bill Trad 10m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Brokerib Mountain Sport 12m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Ding bat Sport 11m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Shrinky Dink Sport 7m, 3 1.7. The Underworld
15 A dream, nothing more Trad 9m 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Bumphlegm Trad 10m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Kodak Moment Trad 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Lost property Trad 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
The Meaning Of Life Sport 11m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Worth the walk? Trad 6m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
La Mer Sport 7m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
Point and Click Sport 7m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
Spentmember September Sport 7m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
15 A2 Goblin Grotto Aid 15m 1.3. Moto Cross wall
16 Elbow Abrasions Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Fossil Wall
Legoland Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Fossil Wall
Vanstone the Vampire Sport 7m, 2 1.1. Fossil Wall
Working From Home Trad 50m 1.1. Fossil Wall
Malibu Rider Trad 10m 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Istanbul (Not Constantinople) Sport 8m, 2 1.5. Faraway Wall
The Mischievous Leprechaun Trad 10m 1.5. Faraway Wall
Intelligent Design Sport 9m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Lactose free Sport 13m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Crapola Sport 7m, 3 1.7. The Underworld
2014: a rock odyssey Sport 7m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
Deceive with belief Sport 8m, 3 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
Hyperpower Sport 7m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
Ruiner Sport 8m, 3 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
17 * On any Given Sunday Sport 29m, 13 1.1. Fossil Wall
Political Prisoner Sport 7m, 2 1.1. Fossil Wall
Well it Ain't Everest Sport 7m 1.2. Middle Wall
Well it Ain't K2 Sport 7m 1.2. Middle Wall
Extinction Never Felt So Good Sport 10m, 4 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Grommet Trad 12m 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Guns, Germs and Steel Trad 10m 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Ben Trad 10m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Evolution Sport 9m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
** Foundlings Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Shoe Lizard Trad 12m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Wing Commander Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
* Summer Roll For Your Soul Sport 8m, 4 1.7. The Underworld
Hey Man Nice Shot Trad 1.8. The Very Far, Far Away Crag
Meet Your Master Sport 8m, 3 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
18 ** Captain Underpants and the Attack of the Wicked Wedgie Woman Sport 11m, 3 1.1. Fossil Wall
* Care Factor Zero Sport 9m 1.2. Middle Wall
* Ecstatic Addict Sport 10m 1.2. Middle Wall
Fossilized thought Sport 10m, 3 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Pinkie Shredder Trad 10m 1.3. Moto Cross wall
The Grudge Sport 10m, 4 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Low voltage Sport 9m, 2 1.5. Faraway Wall
The Angry Goblin Trad 15m 1.5. Faraway Wall
* Aerospace Sport 16m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
** Dendrobium Sport 12m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Lichen A virgin Dog Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Scorpion Sport 13m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
* Zozo the Mandarin Fiend Trad 16m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
* Final Atonement Sport 8m, 3 1.7. The Underworld
* Hard Candy Sport 8m, 4 1.7. The Underworld
Bandicute Trad 1.8. The Very Far, Far Away Crag
* Snakes and Ladders Trad 20m 1.8. The Very Far, Far Away Crag
Sweet ‘n tasty Sport 8m, 3 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
19 * Best of the Shaved Sport 8m 1.2. Middle Wall
Dinosaurs must die Sport 12m, 4 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Goofy Foot Sport 10m 1.3. Moto Cross wall
* Death Adder Sport 15m, 5 1.5. Faraway Wall
* Farewell to Fear Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
* Its A Dogs Life Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
** Woken Furies Sport 10m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Different Stroke Sport 7m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
V1 It's My Birthday and I'll Send If I Want To Boulder 1.4. Pit Stop Boulder
20 Professor Poopy Pants Sport 8m, 3 1.1. Fossil Wall
Ruddock the Ring Wraith Sport 12m, 3 1.1. Fossil Wall
* The Mind has Mountains Sport 12m, 3 1.1. Fossil Wall
Life On Hold Sport 10m, 4 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Petrified Wood Sport 9m, 2 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Chilly in Chile Sport 8m, 2 1.5. Faraway Wall
** New Ways of Living Sport 13m, 5 1.5. Faraway Wall
** Bummagedon Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Roxie and Matey go Quantity Surveying Sport 12m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
STW Sport 6m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
** She Who Must be Obeyed Sport 20m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
WOMBAT Sport 20m, 5 1.8. The Very Far, Far Away Crag
V2 Vanity of Toil Boulder 1.4. Pit Stop Boulder
21 * Unguarded Moment Sport 14m, 4 1.1. Fossil Wall
* Midge Madness Sport 10m 1.2. Middle Wall
Skank Sport 10m, 3 1.3. Moto Cross wall
* Somewhere Down The Barrel Sport 12m, 4 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Birdhouse in Your Soul Sport 10m 1.5. Faraway Wall
* Black Box Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
* Tingles Sport 16m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
22 Children Overboard Sport 7m, 2 1.1. Fossil Wall
** Heresey Sport 15m, 5 1.3. Moto Cross wall
* Kiss and Make up Sport 12m, 4 1.5. Faraway Wall
* The Dark Con Of man Sport 18m, 8 1.5. Faraway Wall
*** The Memory Cathedral Sport 16m, 5 1.5. Faraway Wall
* Dead Letter Office Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
* Dog Beta Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Flash the ugly pony Sport 12m, 7 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
Great Balls of Fire Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
** Siliconciousness Sport 14m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
* Solar Flare Sport 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
* Tickfest Sport 20m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
V3 Arachnid Insanity Boulder 1.4. Pit Stop Boulder
23 King Kyle Sport 6m, 2 1.1. Fossil Wall
Ball Buster Sport 12m, 3 1.3. Moto Cross wall
** The Devil Inside Sport 15m, 4 1.3. Moto Cross wall
*** Vitruvian Man Sport 18m, 6 1.5. Faraway Wall
24 Babsgotabz Sport 15m, 5 1.3. Moto Cross wall
** Ragged Claws Sport 15m 1.3. Moto Cross wall
* High Voltage Sport 18m, 6 1.5. Faraway Wall
*** Carbon Credits Sport 16m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
* Hello to Fear Unknown 15m 1.6. Lost & Found Wall
25 ** Rains of Destiny Sport 12m, 5 1.3. Moto Cross wall
** Screams of Pashion Sport 15m, 5 1.3. Moto Cross wall
? Open Project Sport 10m, 4 1.1. Fossil Wall
Project Sport 6m 1.2. Middle Wall
Project (Josh) Unknown 14m 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Project (closed) Sport 15m, 3 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Project- Josh Sport 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Unfinished project Sport 10m 1.3. Moto Cross wall
Project - Dave Sport 7m, 3 1.7. The Underworld
Project -Kev Sport 7m, 3 1.7. The Underworld
Project - Rod 2 Sport 6m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
Project - Rod3 Sport Project 7m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
Project - Rod4 Sport Project 8m, 3 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall
Project - kev 3 Sport 6m, 2 1.9. Short Sharp Loud wall