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Description

One of the best areas at MtK with good rock to 20m height. Also features a great outlook over 'Berowra' creek.

© (rodw)

Approach

From Motocross wall, opposite Dinosaurs Must Die, head downhill on a cairned path. Halfway down you will pass a large boulder on your left. At the cliff top turn left until you hit some rock ramps that will bring you to the right hand end of the climbing area.

© (rodw)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Up middle of orange streak on great rock and holds. 2 U's to lower offs

Start: 'Access' is agined by walking around to left under chossy roof at far left of crag. Scramble up to top of block. alternaively solo up chimney but it's harder than the route.

FA: Jason Lammers

2

Stick clip 1st bolt and launch out and up, to finish as for SBOPL. Dont blow second clip as could result in a grounder. 2 Y's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of SBOPL

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

3
18 Low voltage Sport 9m, 2

Up middle of face to lower offs at halfway. 2 RB's to lower offs

Start: On the next face.

FA: rod wills, 2004

4
24 * High Voltage Sport 18m, 6

Extension to LV, continuing straight up the face. 6RB's to lower offs

Start: 'Extension' to LV,straight up

FA: Daniel webster, 2007

5
19 R * Death Adder Sport 15m, 5

Through roof then step left to arete and up before traversing out right across lip of cave and up to anchors. 5RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m rt of LV under roof.

FA: V Wills, 2004

6
20 ** New Ways of Living Sport 13m, 5

Up to RH face to thread/bollard runner, step left across corner/crack to 1st bolt (hidden from ground - long draw). Follow juggy step face to anchors. 5RB's to lower offs.

Start: 5m rt of DA

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2005

7
18 X The Angry Goblin Trad 15m

Up corner crack/crack, under roof, finish at anchors for TDCOM. Be wary of loose rock when pulling on rock, belayer should wear a helmet.

Start: Start a for NWOL

FA: Colin Larter

8
22 * The Dark Con Of man Sport 18m, 8

Up middle face tending right at start through fun pumpy moves down low. Intially bolted by Rod who eventually admitted defeat and gave it to Vanessa. 8 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m rt of TAG

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

9
23 *** Vitruvian Man Sport 18m, 6

Up stepped arete to sit down rest. Blast up and right past a dynamic move to reach scoop and up beautiful orange face. 6U's to lower offs.

Start: 6m rt of TDCOM

FA: HawkMan

10
22 *** The Memory Cathedral Sport 16m, 5

Straight up right side of orange face and scoop to finish as for VM. 5U's to lower offs.

Start: 3m rt of VM

FA: V Wills, 2004

11
10 The Happy Goblin Trad 15m

Up corner/crack

Start: 1m rt of MC

FA: Colin Larter

12
22 * Kiss and Make up Sport 12m, 4

Straight up face btw coner and cave. 4RB's to lowers

Start: 1m rt of THG

FA: Greg Hislop

13

Start in cave, swing up and out of cave then up crack. Very little protection for top half.

Start: 2m left of Peruvian Love Child.

FA: Colin Larter., 2009

14
14 Peruvian love Child Sport 9m, 2

Up left side of shorter wall, 2m rt of cave. 2RB's to lower offs.

Start: 4m rt of KAMU

FA: rod wills, 2004

15
9 Phyto-bezoar Trad 8m

Up juggy crack in middle of shorter wall.

Start: 4m rt of PLC.

FA: Vanessa Wills (solo), 2004

16
20 Chilly in Chile Sport 8m, 2

Up thin face past packets. 2 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m rt of Pb

FA: V Wills, 2004

17

Pocket to edge then up jugs, nice moves. Add a grade if you're short. 2 RB's to lower offs

Start: 3m rt of CIC

FA: Jason Lammers