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Summary

This crag consists of face, overhang and slab so it has a bit of everything. Most certainly the choice crag out of the lot in this area so well worth the effort put into the walk in and hike out.

© (rodw)

Description

An extensive area of around 200m of broken cliff lines 8-20m high.

Amazing views of the river below, brilliant climbs and well bolted, steeps to slabs, it has it all!

© (rodw)

Access issues

Follow fire trail around to right after Motocross wall access gully then left along walking trail along ridge line down the hill. Turn off main walkway (marked cairns) to rock shelf, look over edge and follow cairns down to Lost & Found Wall. Can also be accesed from 'Faraway Wall', from the top turning right (instead of left) along cliff top to gap to big cave, then down the hill.

Or follow Gundeh Ridge Track past the motor cross track. Once at the bend follow the dog leg bend to the right and on your left you'll see a prominent fire trail. This fire trail will turn into a hiking trail. Follow the cairns and in approx. 20 mins you'll be there but make sure to put your harness on to get through the final stages of the access gully. Rope in place to hook in to.

© (rodw)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Shoe Lizard Trad 12m

Crawl up through hole then up good hand crack to ledge.

Start: Start at far left end of Furnace Environs in little cave under block.

Note Shoe Lizard to The Welsh Route are all at the Furnace Environs which is around 50m past lactose free slightly up the hill.

FA: Colin Larter, 2008

2
9 Hot Flake Unknown 8m
3
22 * Solar Flare Sport 15m

Up pocketed face down low following flake at the top.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

4
22 Great Balls of Fire Sport 15m

Sharp edgy face to bigger holds and ledge, up thru orange top section

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

5
10 The Welsh Route Trad 8m

Up cracks on left side of gully

Start: At the right end of Furnace Environs.

FA: Bryony Ruscoe, 2007

6
15 Bumphlegm Trad 10m

Scramble up short chimney to top of block. Up seam to top.

Start: At base of big block 3m left of 'Goblin Horde'.

FA: Colin Larter, 2007

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7
8 Goblin Horde Trad 10m

Start: Chimney 1m left of Lactose Free.

FA: Colin Larter, 2007

8
16 Lactose free Sport 13m

Straight up featured face.

FA: Rod Wills, 2005

9
14 Ding bat Sport 11m

2m right of Lactose Free, up juggy wall.

FA: Kevin Van tilburg, 2005

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10
13 Pig Shootin' Trad 15m

Start: 15m right of project past cave around corner. Trad route up nice looking crack with bomber pro.

FA: Dale Tweedie, 2004

11
20 ** Bummagedon Sport 15m

Start: 3m right of PS, up steep scoops over bulge.

FA: Rod Wills, 2005

12
21 * Tingles Sport 16m

Start just right of Bummagedon and left of the crack. Directly up the wall.

FA: Bundy, 2008

13
15 Kodak Moment Trad 15m

Trad route up a nice looking crack

FA: Elliot Braham, 2004

14
22 Flash the ugly pony Sport 12m, 7

Start: 2m right of gully. Up corner, across mossy slab, rest in cave, then mount the pony. Awkward moves past 2 bolts to tree (or rap from last bolt). Probably best to place long sling oon second last bolt on rappel before starting this route.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

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15
22 * Dog Beta Sport 15m

Start: left side of cave step left at 2nd bolt then up to ledge, step right to shared anchors

FA: V Wills, 2006

16
22 * Dead Letter Office Sport 15m

Start: As for Dog Beta, then straight up past left of smaller higher cave to lower offs

FA: V Wills

17
18 Lichen A virgin Dog Sport 15m

Start: as for IADL, then left at 1st bolt. Straight up above cave to shared lower off with DLO.

FA: Tony Tang, 2006

18
19 * Its A Dogs Life Sport 15m

Up middle of face just right of small cave, over ledge to slab.

FA: Rod wills, 2006

19
17 ** Foundlings Sport 15m

Start 2m right of IADL, up past thin flake to arête.

FA: V Wills, 2006

20
15 Lost property Trad 15m

Start 2m right of F. Up obvious crack tending left to finish up arête of Foundlings.

FA: V Wills & T Tang, 2006

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21
19 ** Woken Furies Sport 10m

Start: Up hill in big cave. Up steep wall on left hand side.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

22
20 ** STW Sport 6m

Up steep terain over small roof to lower offs. 3 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m rt of WF

FA: Andrew Fell, 2007

23
20 Roxie and Matey go Quantity Surveying Sport 12m

Start: On slab wall just right of big cave and left of Scorpion. Up slab to short steep headwall.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

24
18 Scorpion Sport 13m

Start: The route in the middle of the slab right of big cave. Slab to short steep headwall.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

25
14 Brokerib Mountain Sport 12m

Start: 2m right of Scorpion. Slab to short steep headwall. Clipping the rings is rather hard for a 14.

FA: rod wills, 2006

26
15 Worth the walk? Trad 6m

Obvious off width roof crack. Not the most glorious of routes, but fun little moves and surprisingly easy.

Start: 20m left of Bill.

FA: Greg Hislop, 2008

27
14 Bill Trad 10m

Wide Flared Crack. mmmm, sounds great !

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

28
17 Ben Trad 10m

Start: 2m right of B. Up crack with a steepish start.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

29
16 Intelligent Design Sport 9m

Mantle start, straight up blunt arête.

FA: Rod wills, 2006

30
17 Evolution Sport 9m

Start: 2m right of arête. Tending left to shared anchors. (staying off arête until3rd bolt)

FA: Rod wills, 2006

31
15 The Meaning Of Life Sport 11m

Straight up middle of slab.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

32
24 * Hello to Fear Unknown 15m

Best protected by placing a long sling from the 3rd bolt after doing FTF. Takes the low traverse via tiny holds and pockets then thinly up to rejoin FTF at prominent horizontal break

Start: Off block as for 'Dendrobium'

FA: V Wills, 2009

33
19 * Farewell to Fear Sport 15m

Start: up on ledge right of big cave. Step left at 2nd bolt traversing left then up arête.

FA: V Wills, 2006

34
18 ** Dendrobium Sport 12m

Start: for as FTF. Bridging up orange face to airy headwall. 6Rb's to lowers offs. (Do not use higher second set of lower offs as rock there could be unstable.)

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

35
9 Ficus Trad 12m

Start: Up easy corner right of Dendrobium. Sounds like another classic !!

FA: Vanessa Wills (solo), 2006

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36
22 ** Siliconciousness Sport 14m

Start: Right of F on main face Up past balancy flake following orange streak.

FA: Vnessa Wills, 2006

37
24 *** Carbon Credits Sport 16m

Start: 5m right of S. Up thin face onto sharp arête and continue up to the top.

FA: V Wills, 2007

38
20 ** She Who Must be Obeyed Sport 20m

Start: 5m right of CC. Middle of wall following obvious ramp. 8 RB's to DRB.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

39
22 * Tickfest Sport 20m

Start: 5m right of SWMBO. Hard start up through shallow cave to head wall.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

40
18 * Aerospace Sport 16m

Start: 2m right of Tickfest. Straight up faint arête tending left at the top. Slightly run out at the top. 5BR's to lower offs.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

41
21 * Black Box Sport 15m

Start: 2m right of Aerospace, straight up the face.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

42
17 Wing Commander Sport 15m

Start: 2m right of BB, straight up the face on big holds. 4 RB's to shared lower offs.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

43
18 * Zozo the Mandarin Fiend Trad 16m

Start: 100m right of WC, past big cave, Up obvious right leaning orange crack to top.

FA: Vanessa Wills & Anthony Geogheghan, 2007

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