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Summary

This crag consists of face, overhang and slab so it has a bit of everything. Most certainly the choice crag out of the lot in this area so well worth the effort put into the walk in and hike out.

© (rodw)

Description

An extensive area of around 200m of broken cliff lines 8-20m high. A gully come down near the middle, by Flash the Ugly Pony.

Amazing views of the river below, brilliant climbs and well bolted, steeps to slabs, it has it all!

© (rodw)

Approach

Follow fire trail around to right after Motocross wall access gully then left along walking trail along ridge line down the hill. Turn off main walkway (marked cairns) to rock shelf, look over edge and follow cairns down to Lost & Found Wall, including one rope down a broken cliff halfway down the hill. Can also be accessed from 'Faraway Wall', from the top turning right (instead of left) along cliff top to gap to big cave, then down the hill. You may want to put your harness on to get through the final stages of the access gully. Rope in place to hook in to. At base of Gully, Flash the Ugly Pony is the first route on your right.

© (rodw)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
17 Shoe Lizard Trad 12m

Crawl up through hole then up good hand crack to ledge.

Start: At far left end of Furnace Environs in little cave under block.

Note Shoe Lizard to The Welsh Route are all at the Furnace Environs which is around 50m past lactose free slightly up the hill.

FA: Colin Larter, 2008

2
9 Hot Flake Unknown 8m
3
22 * Solar Flare Sport 15m

Up pocketed face down low following flake at the top.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

4
22 Great Balls of Fire Sport 15m

Sharp edgy face to bigger holds and ledge, up thru orange top section

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

5
10 The Welsh Route Trad 8m

Up cracks on left side of gully

Start: At the right end of Furnace Environs.

FA: Bryony Ruscoe, 2007

6
15 Bumphlegm Trad 10m

Scramble up short chimney to top of block. Up seam to top.

Start: At base of big block 3m left of 'Goblin Horde'.

FA: Colin Larter, 2007

7
8 Goblin Horde Trad 10m

Start: Chimney 1m left of Lactose Free.

FA: Colin Larter, 2007

8
16 Lactose free Sport 13m

Straight up featured face.

FA: Rod Wills, 2005

9
14 Ding bat Sport 11m

2m right of Lactose Free, up juggy wall.

FA: Kevin Van tilburg, 2005

10
13 Pig Shootin' Trad 15m

Start: 15m right of project past cave around corner. Trad route up nice looking crack with bomber pro.

FA: Dale Tweedie, 2004

11
20 * Bummagedon Sport 15m

Start: 3m right of PS, up steep scoops over bulge.

FA: Rod Wills, 2005

12
21 * Tingles Sport 16m

Start just right of Bummagedon and left of the crack. Directly up the wall.

FA: Bundy, 2008

13
15 Kodak Moment Trad 15m

Trad route up a nice looking crack

FA: Elliot Braham, 2004

14
22 Flash the ugly pony Sport 12m, 7

Start: 2m right of gully. Up corner, across mossy slab, rest in cave, then mount the pony. Awkward moves past 2 bolts to tree (or rap from last bolt). Probably best to place long sling oon second last bolt on rappel before starting this route.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

15
22 * Dog Beta Sport 15m

Start: left side of cave step left at 2nd bolt then up to ledge, step right to shared anchors

FA: V Wills, 2006

16
22 * Dead Letter Office Sport 15m

Start: As for Dog Beta, then straight up past left of smaller higher cave to lower offs

FA: V Wills

17
18 Lichen A virgin Dog Sport 15m

Start: as for IADL, then left at 1st bolt. Straight up above cave to shared lower off with DLO.

FA: Tony Tang, 2006

18
19 * Its A Dogs Life Sport 15m

Up middle of face just right of small cave, over ledge to slab.

FA: Rod wills, 2006

19
17 ** Foundlings Sport 15m

Start 2m right of IADL, up past thin flake to arête.

FA: V Wills, 2006

20
15 Lost property Trad 15m

Start 2m right of F. Up obvious crack tending left to finish up arête of Foundlings.

FA: V Wills & T Tang, 2006

21
18 ** Woken Furies Sport 10m

Start: Up hill in big cave. Up steep wall on left hand side.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

22
20 ** STW Sport 6m

Up steep terain over small roof to lower offs. 3 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m right of WF

FA: Andrew Fell, 2007

23

Start: On slab wall just right of big cave and left of Scorpion. Up slab to short steep headwall.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

24
18 Scorpion Sport 13m

Start: The route in the middle of the slab right of big cave. Slab to short steep headwall.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

25
14 Brokerib Mountain Sport 12m

Start: 2m right of Scorpion. Slab to short steep headwall. Clipping the rings is rather hard for a 14.

FA: rod wills, 2006

26
15 Worth the walk? Trad 6m

Next lot of routes found around the corner up the hill above previous climbs.Obvious off width roof crack. Not the most glorious of routes, but fun little moves and surprisingly easy.

Start: 20m left of Bill.

FA: Greg Hislop, 2008

27
14 Bill Trad 10m

Wide Flared Crack. mmmm, sounds great !

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

28
17 Ben Trad 10m

Start: 2m right of B. Up crack with a steepish start.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

29
Project - Rod1 Sport Project 12m, 4

Steepish bouldery start onto slab up right side if cave.

30
16 Intelligent Design Sport 9m

Mantle start, straight up blunt arête.

FA: Rod wills, 2006

31
17 Evolution Sport 9m

Start: 2m right of arête. Tending left to shared anchors. (staying off arête until3rd bolt)

FA: Rod wills, 2006

32
15 The Meaning Of Life Sport 11m

Straight up middle of slab.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

33

Right side of slab, following edge tending left to shared anchors with TMOL

FA: 2015

FFA: rod, 2nd Aug

34
16 Down and Out in the Bible Belt Sport Project 10m, 3

Around corner at same level on next wall. Up slab onto short face to lip and anchors.

FFA: rod, 2nd Aug

35
Rod - Project 2 Sport Project 8m, 3

Up short slab though flakes with mantle to anchors.

36
24 * Hello to Fear Sport 15m

Next climbs found past big cave, do not head up hill to Evolution wall just continue along track. Best protected by placing a long sling from the 3rd bolt after doing FTF. Takes the low traverse via tiny holds and pockets then thinly up to rejoin FTF at prominent horizontal break

Start: Off block as for 'Dendrobium'

FA: V Wills, 2009

37
19 * Farewell to Fear Sport 15m

Start: up on ledge right of big cave. Step left at 2nd bolt traversing left then up arête.

FA: V Wills, 2006

38
18 ** Dendrobium Sport 12m

Start: for as FTF. Bridging up orange face to airy headwall. 6Rb's to lowers offs. (Do not use higher second set of lower offs as rock there could be unstable.)

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

39
9 Ficus Trad 12m

Start: Up easy corner right of Dendrobium. Sounds like another classic !!

FA: Vanessa Wills (solo), 2006

40
22 ** Siliconciousness Sport 14m

Start: Right of F on main face Up past balancy flake following orange streak. Jugs above anchors.

FA: Vnessa Wills, 2006

41
24 *** Carbon Credits Sport 16m

Start: 5m right of S. Up thin face onto sharp arête and continue up to the top.

FA: V Wills, 2007

42

Start: 5m right of CC. Middle of wall following obvious ramp. 8 RB's to DRB.

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

43
22 * Tickfest Sport 20m

Start: 5m right of SWMBO. Hard start up through shallow cave to head wall.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

44
18 * Aerospace Sport 16m

Start: 2m right of Tickfest. Straight up faint arête tending left at the top. Slightly run out at the top. 5BR's to lower offs.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006

45
21 * Black Box Sport 15m

Start: 2m right of Aerospace, straight up the face.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

46
17 Wing Commander Sport 15m

Start: 2m right of BB, straight up the face on big holds. 4 RB's to shared lower offs.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

47

Start: 100m right of WC, past big cave, Up obvious right leaning orange crack to top.

FA: Vanessa Wills & Anthony Geogheghan, 2007

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