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Grade Route

Climb steep arete then up head wall.

Start: Right 'Arete' on the Cave of Soap

Climb up to cave then up thin top wall.

Start: 1m right of '3D Wimp Out'

Climb up to cave, leave cave rightwards then up thin finish.

Start: as for 'Alison'

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

Climb up into pod shaped chimney, then struggle out to continue up crack. Not well travelled, fiddly gear placments.

Start: 3m right of 'Alison'

Bouldery start then up yet another thin finish. Very popular warmup

Start: 3m right of Gash.

Up yet another thin route

Start: 1m right of 'Yesterday's Heroes'

Start up past to bolts then cams for the top. Use lower offs as for 'Dangerous Currents'

Start: 2m right of 'Palm Sunday'

FA: Scott Butler & James Holbrrok, 1980

Directly up past 2 bolts. No sneaking out right.

Start: first route on elevated platform right of 'Samantha'.

FA: dan raison

Popular route, up thin crimps. Will probably be the hardest route at the crag in 10 years if the holds keep disappearing.

Start: Immediately right of 'Dangerous Currents'

FA: Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler & James Holbrook, 1980

Up line right of 'Eccles', initialled. Has been retro bolted. Very hard start to jug, then straightforward. The grade is historical, probably harder than Bill Collins off the ground

Start: right of 'Eccles'

One word, Sharp!!

If you have leather tips, it's a shoe in. Crimp up painful holds, clip anchors and cry. Classic if you like that sort of thing.

Start: Where the elevated platform drops.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

Starts 2m R of 'Bill Collins', and finishes at anchors of the extended version of 'Gidget Verdon'. Quite varied climbing for a wall and loads of finger shredding fun.

FA: Tim Mayer, 9 Jan 2014

Hard start, even harder with the loss of a hold, originally 22.

Up to 3rd bolt then move rightwards.

Start: 8m right of 'Bill Collins'.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

Start as for original but move leftwards at 3rd bolt to lower offs.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

An utterly desperate wall climb on tiny holds. Strong candidate for sandbag of the millenium, originally graded 26, but latest talks have it at 28/29

Start: 4m right of 'Gidget Verdon'.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

Reputedly tough for the grade. Either layback, jam or face climb - whatever floats your boat.

Has been mistaken for the descent gully!!!

Start: Corner crack at the 'Blackboard' righthand end.

Recommend pre clipping 1st bolt. Boulder up slab, mantle on to step. Up through scoop past BR, onto second step, clip UB then continue up slopey arête, finish left at double UB belay.

FA: D.Brown


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