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Grade Route
21 * 3D Wimp Out Sport 15m, 4

climb steep arete then up head wall

Start: Right 'Arete' on the Cave of Soap

25 * Alison Sport 12m, 4

climb up to cave then up thin top wall

Start: 1metre right of 3D Wimp Out

24 ** The Red Menace Sport 15m, 5

Climb up to cave, leave cave rightwards then up thin finish

Start: Start as for Alison

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

17 Gash Trad 12m

Climb up into pod shaped chimney, then struggle out to continue up crack. Not well travelled, fiddly gear placments.

Start: 3metres right of Alison

17 ** Yesterday's Heroes Sport 12m, 4

Bouldery start then up yet another thin finish. Very popular warmup

Start: 3m right of Gash.

21 * Palm Sunday Sport 15m, 3

up yet another thin route

Start: 1m right of YH

20 * Samantha Mixed 10m, 2

strat up past to bolts then cams for the top. use lower offs for Dangerous Currents

Start: 2metres right of 'Palm Sunday'

FA: Scott Butler & James Holbrrok, 1980

22 Dangerous Currants Sport 6m, 2

directly up past 2 bolts. No sneaking out right.

Start: first route on elevated platform right of Samantha

FA: dan raison

20 * Eccles Sport 12m, 2

popular route, up thin crimps. will probably be the hardest route at the crag in 10 years if the holds keep disappearing

Start: Immediately right of Dangerous Currents

FA: Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler & James Holbrook, 1980

20 R JHTB Trad 8m

Solo?? up line right of 'Eccles'. use lower offs on 'Eccles' or top out. Take care on top out, may be loose & dirty!!!.

Start: right of 'Eccles'

24 to 25 ** Bill Collins Sport 10m, 3

One word, Sharp!!

if you have leather tips, it's a shoe in. crimp up painful holds, clip anchors and cry. classic if you like that sort of thing

Start: Where the elevated platform drops.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

26 *** Sweet Cheeks Sport 11m, 3

Starts 2m R of BC, and finish at anchors of the extended version of GV. Quite varied climbing for a wall and loads of finger shredding fun.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2014

22 ** Gidget Verdon Sport 15m, 3

hard start, even harder with the loss of a hold, originally 22.

up to 3rd bolt then move rightwards.

Start: 8 metres right of Bill Colins.

FA: Mike Law, 1980


start as for original but move leftwards at 3rd bolt to lower offs

FA: Mike Law, 1980

28 ** Butter Knives Sport 12m, 4

an utterly desperate wall climb on tiny holds. Strong candidate for sandbag of the milleniium, originally graded 26, but latest talks have it at 28/29

Start: 4m right of Gidget

FA: Mike Law, 1980

12 * Marsala Trad 8m

reputedly tough for the grade. either layback, jam or face climb - whatever floats your boat.

has been mistaken for the decent gully!!!

Start: Corner crack at the 'Blackboard' righthand end.


Check out what is happening in Blackboard Wall.