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Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 * 3D Wimp Out Sport 15m, 4

Climb steep arete then up head wall.

Start: Right 'Arete' on the Cave of Soap

2
25 * Alison Sport 12m, 4

Climb up to cave then up thin top wall.

Start: 1m right of '3D Wimp Out'

3
24 ** The Red Menace Sport 15m, 5

Climb up to cave, leave cave rightwards then up thin finish.

Start: as for 'Alison'

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

4
17 * Gash Trad 12m

Climb up into pod shaped chimney, then struggle out to continue up crack. Not well travelled, fiddly gear placments.

Start: 3m right of 'Alison'

5
17 ** Yesterday's Heroes Sport 12m, 4

Bouldery start then up yet another thin finish. Very popular warmup

Start: 3m right of Gash.

6
21 * Palm Sunday Sport 15m, 3

Up yet another thin route

Start: 1m right of 'Yesterday's Heroes'

7
20 * Samantha Mixed 10m, 2

Start up past to bolts then cams for the top. Use lower offs as for 'Dangerous Currents'

Start: 2m right of 'Palm Sunday'

FA: Scott Butler & James Holbrrok, 1980

8
22 Dangerous Currents Sport 6m, 2

Directly up past 2 bolts. No sneaking out right.

Start: first route on elevated platform right of 'Samantha'.

FA: dan raison

9
20 * Eccles Sport 12m, 2

Popular route, up thin crimps. Will probably be the hardest route at the crag in 10 years if the holds keep disappearing.

Start: Immediately right of 'Dangerous Currents'

FA: Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler & James Holbrook, 1980

10
20 R JHTB Trad 8m

Solo?? Up line right of 'Eccles'. Use lower offs on 'Eccles' or top out. Take care on top out, may be loose & dirty!!!.

Start: right of 'Eccles'

11
24 to 25 ** Bill Collins Sport 10m, 3

One word, Sharp!!

If you have leather tips, it's a shoe in. Crimp up painful holds, clip anchors and cry. Classic if you like that sort of thing.

Start: Where the elevated platform drops.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

12
26 *** Sweet Cheeks Sport 11m, 3

Starts 2m R of 'Bill Collins', and finishes at anchors of the extended version of 'Gidget Verdon'. Quite varied climbing for a wall and loads of finger shredding fun.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2014

13
22 ** Gidget Verdon Sport 15m, 3

Hard start, even harder with the loss of a hold, originally 22.

Up to 3rd bolt then move rightwards.

Start: 8m right of 'Bill Collins'.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

14

Start as for original but move leftwards at 3rd bolt to lower offs.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

15
28 ** Butter Knives Sport 12m, 4

An utterly desperate wall climb on tiny holds. Strong candidate for sandbag of the millenium, originally graded 26, but latest talks have it at 28/29

Start: 4m right of 'Gidget Verdon'.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

16
12 * Marsala Trad 8m

Reputedly tough for the grade. Either layback, jam or face climb - whatever floats your boat.

Has been mistaken for the descent gully!!!

Start: Corner crack at the 'Blackboard' righthand end.

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