Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Galston Gorge The Orphanage Right Side | |||||
V0 | ★ Bountiful Baskets
Start at crack, then up and over. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 1 May 2017 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Hole's the Goal
Start at obvious crack, shoot up to ledge and squeeze through the hole. (Attempt at your own risk, it is a tight squeeze) FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 1 May 2017 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Measured Limitations
Left side, up through the numerous rails. (Highball finish, take care) FA: C.Sharples, 1 Mar 2016 | 5m | |||
V0 | A Fruity Chardonnay
Start right side of slab wall. Obvious easy holds to the top. FA: Jarred Jordan | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ A Delicate Sauvignon Blanc
Start left of jugs and avoid right arete. FA: Jarred Jordan | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ A Coarse Shiraz
Start on the side-pull and climb the left side of the boulder. FA: Jarred Jordan | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Parent Supervision Required
Beware very tall! Use top rope or hundreds of pads. Start with the juggy hole in the wall and continue upwards. FA: Jarred Jordan | ||||
V4 | Burn After Climbing
Beware! Very tall, use top rope or hundreds of pads. Climb left side and avoid juggy hole. | 6m | |||
V0 | Nightmare on Jug Street
Nice warm-up, stick to the right side of the boulder. FA: Jarred Jordan | 4m | |||
V0 | Ten Metres on Crimps
About 5 metres on jugs. Slabby and easy. FA: Ashlee Taylor, 2017 | 4m | |||
V0 | Bouncing Cats
Up the left side of the boulder, another very easy warm-up. FA: Mirabelle James, 2017 | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Slab That.
Directly up; a few crimps and a few small footers. HAVE FUN! FA: Jarred Jordan, 30 Jun 2017 | 5m | |||
V0 | Pillar of Ascension
Pretty straight forward, up the pillar-like wall. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 1 Mar 2017 | 5m | |||
V1 | Glazed Donuts
Stand start on 2 crimps, follow up through the obvious pocket. FA: Graham Dowden, 2016 FA: 2016 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Professional Indemnity
Stand start on 2 side-by-side crimps. Delicate moves up to good holds. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 FA: 2018 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Mandatory Detention
Stand start on crimps with terrible feet. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 5m | |||
Project X
| 5m | ||||
Side Burn Project
Start right side and finish as for The Face/ | 3m | ||||
V1 | ★ The Face.
Who is The Face? Climb up the left side and finish at the jug. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2017 | 5m | |||
★★ Stick it in Me Project
Follow the crack and be careful of height. This climb had many ascents incorrectly assigned to it when it was merged with other routes. Set: Gina Sao, Megan Sao & Jarred Jordan | 5m | ||||
V0 | Nice Mangoes
Warm up for your warm up FA: Mirabelle James, 2017 | 2m | |||
V0 | A Whole Lotta Dog Slobber
A climb for grandma FA: Mirabelle James, 2017 | 2m | |||
V0 | Crab Walk
Start down right and finish with the other climbs on this boulder. I projected this for years, every day and every night. I tremble thinking about it. FA: Mirabelle James | ||||
Galston Gorge The Orphanage Left Side | |||||
V4 | ★ Daughter Issues
Start at low jugs, traverse left for about a 1m. FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 31 Jan 2017 | 2m | |||
V8 | ★★ Commitment Issues
Daughter Issues, direct left variant. | 4m | |||
★★ Daddy Issues
Follow 'Daughter Issues', but continue left to finish around the corner of the boulder. PROJECT v9-11 | 4m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Projectile Pooping
Sit start not necessary. This is a high ball. Take plenty of mats and spotters. Top mantle is very spicy. The bottom can get wet after rain. FA: Jarred Jordan & John Bignold, 2016 | 5m | |||
Halal Certified Project
Start as for Projectile Pooping and exit right. Still a project, top rope would be advised. | 5m | ||||
V7 | ★★ Tight Crack
Punch from the sit start up to the two slopers. Take a grade off without the sit start. Top out. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2015 | 2m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Sugar Creek
Stand start variant of 'Tight Crack'. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 26 Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
V8 | ★★ One in the Pink, Two in the Crimp
Stand start, two finger pocket and tiny crimp. Head left, arete is out. Top out however you can. FA: Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Alter Boys Crack
Sit start, between two boulders and move up the crack and top out slightly to the right. (Sidewall in) FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Crucified
Start left hand side, move up the arete and then make a big span to the right. Top out. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Slab Dat Ass
Squat start, aretes in, couple crimps on the left and use large pockets to reach the sketchy top out. FA: Jarred Jordan & John Bignold, Sep 2016 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Exodia
Sit start on arete, bump up to large jug on the right, scramble to top out. (side wall out) FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 4m | |||
V2 | Mingle with a Mumbai Muslim
Squat start at jug, mantle for top out. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Mums a Lesbian
Sit start at the side pulls, move up to jug and then mantle on the left hand side. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ High on Listerine
Start at the shallow pockets, move up to the wide rail. Than a large move to the top out holds. FA: John Bignold & Meedu Samaraweera, 31 Jan 2017 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Scratched Nipple
Sit start at the side pulls, move up to jug, veer right to mantle top out. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Itsy Bisty Spider
Sit start at scratched nipple, follow crimp rail to the right avoiding big jug, top out with nice holds above the plant. | 3m | |||
V0 | Tasteful Sideboob
Side start, move up jugs mantle to top out. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Take your pants off
Stand up, traverse across crimps, top out at "Mums a Lesbian". (+1 grade if you do it without pants) FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Goverments Plebiscite
Start start, follow up the crack, mantle top out. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Apply Generously to Lips
Stand start, small crimp on left and jump to the top, mantle top out. (arete out) FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
V6 | ★★ Memoirs of a Gay Shark
Start on the Arrete, head up the face left of the arrete. Theres a hidden crimp. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★ Grapefruit Daytrip
Sit start at the shallow rail, crimp on the right, crimps on top, mantle top out. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Gav's got Girth
Start start, move up left rail, jugs high on the right, top out. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 3m | |||
V8 | ★ Scotch and Pingas
Sit start on crimps, head straight up, then move up the rail to mantle top out. | 3m | |||
*delete this*
| |||||
V3 | ★ Brokeback Mountain
Stand start at obvious jug, move up to lip and traverse across. 'CARE BAD LANDING' FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 31 Jan 2017 | 2m | |||
Galston Gorge The Graveyard Upper Side | |||||
V5 | ★★ Crankyalater
Stand start on RH jug and LH sidepull on the arete. Dyno to the 2 pad sloper jug with the right or left hand. Hard to grade. Classic one mover FA: Mike croker | 2m | |||
V11 | ★★ Health Insurance Recommended
Start in the two pockets, slap up left to the very slopey scoop, and aim for the second very slopey hold on the left. Super hard. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ All Day Breakfast
Stand start on a decent hold out left and use the right arete. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ No Tomato
Stand start on the big ledge and use the crimps to the left before topping out. | ||||
V0 | ★ Vietnam Veterinarian
Stand start on the ledge and use the holds in the roof and then on the left arete to top out. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Interior Design
Start on the big slopey pocket and climb up to the big side pulls on the left. Top out over the face. Great warm-up. FA: Jarred Jordan | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Eat More Whale
Stand start on the big slopey scoop and mantle like a whale. | ||||
Nicholas Cage Project
Start with the big side pull on the right and the flat under-cling on the left. Use tiny feet to the slopers. Hard. Open Project. | |||||
Halloween Project
Start low on the juggy under-cling and work left to the crimps. Hard. Maybe Impossible. Open project. | |||||
V7 | Flat Chest
Stand start on the crimps and mantle over the top slopers. FA: Jarred Jordan | ||||
V2 | ★ Turkish Delight
Start on the big slopey spot and head using the crack and big holds to the top. A great warm-up. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Sharon Tate
Start on the big side pull and find the few crimps over the small lip. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★ Voodoo Child
Start on the big side pull and head up over the lip to the right. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Fat Neck
Start on the obvious juggy crack and crank into the middle break's slopers. From here, either crank up on desperate slopers or get a cracker of a handjam and reach to heaven. Classic and good fun. grade could possibly be affected by ape index. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVI33uvTA_U FA: Mike croker | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Neil Armstrong
Start on the big obvious jug and use the slopers under the lip. Head up using the decent edge and slopers to the top. Starting off the crimps is a nice alternative: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSQ60lTSl-A | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Moon Landing
Start on the big obvious jug and jump straight to the hold over the lip. Avoid holds in between. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2019 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Well Hung
Stand start over the small roof and use both side walls for feet. Very unique, plenty of different beta. | ||||
★ Hungry Hungry Hippos Project
Low start on terrible crimps and fight your way over the hippo. Open Project. | 3m | ||||
★ Mashed Potato Project
Sit start a small crimps, and use the right side of the boulder. Open Project FA: 2018 | 3m | ||||
V7 | ★★ Three Tight Holes
Squat start on the pockets and use a few small crimps and fight to the top. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 3m | |||
★★ Blank Canvas Project
Squat start on a few crimps on the left side of boulder. Traverse slightly right, possible using slopers on the left. Open Project. FA: 2018 | 3m | ||||
V5 | Peter File
Stand start and use the very slopey arete and slopey mantle. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Ugly Duckling
Use the right arete to climb up over the slopey lip. FA: Jack Folkes, 23 Feb 2021 | 3m | |||
V5 | The Captain
Sit start on the obvious under-cling and climb over the right side through the scoop and up the pinnacle. FA: Jarred Jordan | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Free Candy
Truly a lovely boulder. Sit start on the obvious under-cling and use the flakes to reach the slopey stop out. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | Spanking the Goat
Sit start on the obvious under-cling and use the flakes to traverse left and up to the top. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Red is All the Dread
Stand start on underclings near the back wall, then bust out on pockets and slopers to top out around the right side of the ship's prow. FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 29 Jul 2019 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Michael Jackson Sleepover
Stand start in the middle of the boulder on two terrible crimps and climb to the mantle. FA: Jarred Jordan | ||||
Baby on a Balcony Project
Sit start on a few terrible low holds with some decent feet. Open Project. FA: Jarred Jordan | 3m | ||||
V3 | Butthole Thriller
Climb up the crimps on the left side of the boulder, also using the arete. | 3m | |||
V0 | Wall-E
Sit Start with right hand laybacking the left side of the crack. Move up and top out. FA: Mirabelle James | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Coco
Crouch start to the right of the crack with hands on the first decent holds midway up the wall. Crack out right is off for feet. FA: Jarred Jordan | 2m | |||
VB | Up
Sit start on the very right side of the boulder with big crack for starting hands. Move straight up. FA: Mirabelle James | 2m | |||
Big Log Project
Currently, there is a dead tree stump in the way, but behind it looks to be a promising project. Take a chainsaw and you might find a V3-V6. | 3m | ||||
V4 | ★★ Up the Bum
Maybe the most classic climb in the crag. Sit start on the arete and use the side wall for feet. Layback up to the very slopey mantle. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | Side Butt
Stand start and head right up through the slopers. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Delirious Dolphins
Start right side of boulder on jugs. Some crimps and slopers to the top out. FA: Jarred Jordan | 3m | |||
V2 | Pondering Penguins
Sit start left side of boulder on jugs. Use crimps to the top out. FA: MIrabelle James, 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Hooligan Horses
Start on jugs to the left of Fantastic Flamingos and avoid using the side wall. FA: Jarred Jordan | 3m | |||
V1 | Fantastic Flamingos
Sit start in the middle of the face, use crimps and sidepull. FA: MIrabelle James, 2018 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Mood Ring
Start on the obvious ledge at the bottom left hand side of the boulder. Shoot up to the lip and mantle over the top. Quite the classic. FA: Ethan Jordan, 2018 | 2m | |||
V1 | The Problem Solvers
Start on the low holds underneath the boulder and climb out left up to the top out. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 2m | |||
V3 | Tracy Jordan Sex Doll
Start on the low holds underneath the boulder and climb out right through some slopey holds. FA: Ethan Jordan, 2018 | 2m | |||
V1 | MILF Island
Stand start on the obvious jug on the face of the boulder and use some of the slopey holds up left. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 2m | |||
V1 | Warewolf Bar Mitzvah
Squat start on the left-hand under-cling and the right arete. Move up to the jugs on the arete and top out. FA: Ethan Jordan | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Yosemite Dreaming
Stand start and use the arete and the face to the top out. FA: Ethan Jordan, 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Cuddles
Stand start with the obvious left side pull and the right arete. Climb straight up. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | Lazy Boy
Stand start on the obvious holds and mantle to the top. | ||||
Galston Gorge The Graveyard Lower Side | |||||
V0 | ★ La Dura Dura Dura
Sit start and climb the jugs up the corner. Beautiful warm up. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Police Brutality
Avoid the juggy left side of the face and stick to the right. Watch out for the rock feature behind you. | 3m |