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Table of contents

1. Burnley Bouldering Wall 56 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 145.002235, -37.832258

Unique Features And Strengths:

Well maintained urban bouldering wall. Dry in the rain, lit up at night. And it's free!

Description:

Intro The info below comes from the sign near wall 1 and the document at http://www.vicclimb.org.au/includes/file.php?id=78 for more info. (Reproduced here with permission).

Etiquette Give way to climbers already on the wall. If someone is climbing be sure to wait until they've passed the section of wall you wish to use before you start to climb.

Do not climb with bare feet.

Safe climbers are happy climbers

  • Be aware of other climbers around you and keep clear when not climbing
  • Do not climb the walls on your own at night
  • Do not climb onto the top of the walls
  • Park your bike well away from the climbing mats
  • Always use a spotter

Working together

The beginning of the bouldering walls

The Burnley Bouldering Walls are the results of partnerships, community commitment and a desire to turn what was otherwise an unused site into something more. Over 130 volunteers from the climbing community worked together with CityLink, Parks Victoria and the Victorian Climbing Club, supported by the donation of goods and services from several local businesses. The walls were constructed over a four month period thanks to the tireless efforts of the volunteers and supporting organisations.

If you have any suggestions or would like to report a damaged, missing or spinning hold, please use the chalk board or email burnleybouldering@vicclimb.org.au.

Looking after the reserve The Burnley Bouldering Walls and surrounding McConchie Reserve are here for your enjoyment. You can help keep the reserve healthy and ensure the bouldering walls continue to be an enjoyable experience by following these simple guidelines

  • Do not add or remove holds from the walls
  • Take your rubbish home with you
  • Keep your dog on a leash at all times
  • Clean up after your pets
  • All native plants and animals in the reserve are protected and must not be disturbed. Do not remove or introduce plants or animals to the reserve.

For more information about McConchie Reserve, contact the Parks Victoria Information Centre on 13 19 63 or visit: www.parkweb.vic.gov.au

Other

Toilets: The nearest public toilets are about a 5 minute walk located in Barkly Gardens in Mary St, near the corner of Barkly Avenue.

Food & Fuel: The nearest food stores and petrol station are up on Swan Street which is only a 2min drive or a 10min walk. There is also a servo for fuel or snacks out on Church Street which is a similar distance away. The Swan Hotel on the corner of Church and Swan Streets is about your closest venue for a post-session pint.

Public Telephone: The nearest public telephone is at 596 Church Street.

In case of emergency

In an emergency please dial 000 and specify your location as McConchie Reserve. Access is via the southern end of Mary St, Richmond. Melway Reference 2M 2B. The nearest public telephone is at 596 Church St.

Approach:

General Location

The Bouldering walls are located under the CityLink / Monash Freeway where it runs parallel to the Yarra in Burnley (near Richmond), approximately 2km from Melbourne CBD. A detailed location map is on the following page. The Melways reference is 2M 2B

By Car

From Swan Street Richmond, turn into Coppin St on the KFC side of the road. Go to the end and turn left into Barkly Avenue. Pass through the Parks Victoria entranceway and park you vehicle. Wander down the gravel driveway towards the river, turn right and walk across the floating pontoon bridge, and after approximately 100m you're there!

By Bicycle

Follow the Yarra Trail to Burnley. When you find yourself opposite Herring Island, and in between Coppin St and Mary St on the map, you're there. The obvious place to park you bike is against the wire fence. If this isn’t possible then please use common sense and make sure it’s a safe distance back from the walls and out of peoples way.

By Tram (Tram 78 along Church St gets you the closest)

Tram 78: Get off as close as possible to the intersection of Church St and Yorkshire St. Walk east along Yorkshire St in the direction of Mary St. Turn right into Mary St , walk through the Pedestrian subway and turn left when you hit the river. Walk for 200m or so and you're there.

Tram 70: Head along Swan St Richmond and get off at the intersection of Swan St and Coppin St. Turn left at the end into Barkly Ave, and go through the Parks Vic entranceway. Walk down the gravel driveway and turn right when you hit the river. Walk across the floating pontoon bridge and Burnley is on your right.

By Train

Take the train to Burnley station (The following lines will take you there: Lilydale, Belgrave, & Glen Waverley.) Walk along Madden Grove in the direction of Melbourne CBD. Turn left into Rooney St. at the dogleg in the road, head left through the Parks Victoria entrance gates. Wander down the gravel driveway towards the river, turn right and walk across the floating pontoon bridge, and after approximately 100m you're there!

History:

In 1993, Chris Shepherd conceived the idea of having a long traverse wall near the CBD. The wall became very famous for its pumpy line. In 2003, risk management concerns highlighted the need for the route to be removed. Transurban (manager of CityLink) offered to sponsor the construction of a new facility, and Parks Victoria offered the location; inside McConchie Reserve in Burnley. A Burnley Project Manager position on the VCC (Victorian Climbing Club) committee was created to oversee the project, and a project team was assembled to commence the planning process.

The VCC Burnley Project Manager rallied the climbing community to create a series of construction teams, leveraging skills climbers had developed in their day jobs. Construction began on January 31st, 2006, and the first routes appeared on April 29th, 2006. Regular internet posts on progress were viewed by other organisations, which came forward and offered their support. Four months and more than 130 volunteers later, the three walls were opened to the public.

Burnley had a vibrant scene, attracting large numbers of visitors at all times of the day and on any given day of the week. Since the original donations that were vital to get the project off the ground, Burnley has continued to receive support in terms of time, funding and materials. In 2008 all three walls were re-set with new routes, greatly assisted by an additional community grant from Parks Victoria.

Almost exactly 4 years later, on the 27thApril 2010, the walls were stripped of routes and the area around them was closed while strengthening works were carried out on the beams and piers supporting the freeway.

On the 30thof July 2011, works on the freeway supports were finalised and the walls reset. With all new problems (and new lights for those evening sessions) we hope that Burnley once again becomes a hub of the climbing community.

During 2013 all three walls were remodeled with volumes added. A majority of the routes are now up problems from a sit start, though there are still one or two traverses.

1.1. Wall 1- Vertical 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 145.002123, -37.832262

Description:

Vertical traverses and boulder problems

Descent Notes:

Just let go

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Orange 1 V0-Boulder 4m
2 Purple V1Boulder 4m
3 Green 1 V1Boulder 4m
4 Red 1 V1Boulder 4m
5 Orange 2 V0-Boulder 4m
6 Red 2 V2Boulder 4m
7 Grey 1 V1Boulder 4m
8 Green 2 V1Boulder 4m
9 Red 3 V2Boulder 4m
10 Orange 3 V0-Boulder 4m
11 Woodie V0Boulder 4m
12 Black Traverse 13Boulder 10m
13 Green Traverse 15Boulder 10m
14 Yellow Traverse 16Boulder 10m
15 White Blue Swirl Traverse 18Boulder 10m
16 Blue Traverse 21Boulder 10m

1.2. Wall 2- 30 degree wall 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

30 degree wall

Descent Notes:

Just let go

1.3. Wall 3- 45 degree wall 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

45 degree wall

Descent Notes:

Just let go

1.4. Archived routes 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 145.002179, -37.832225

1.4.1. Wall 1 (Vertical) 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 145.002127, -37.832259

1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013 16 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 145.002123, -37.832262

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rainbow Traverse

Use any colour.

6Trad
2 All Blue Traverse

Use all blues

8Boulder 6m
3 Red Traverse 10Boulder 6m
4 Light Blue (Swirls) Traverse 11Boulder 6m
5 Dark Blue Traverse 12Boulder 6m
6 Green Traverse

Sit start. Don't use the green up problem holds.

14Boulder 6m
7 Salmon Traverse

Sit start and finish.

16Boulder 6m
8 Black Traverse 18Boulder 6m
9 Yellow Traverse 19Boulder 6m
10 Purple Traverse

Crimpy!

22Boulder 6m
11 Stone 1 Up

Panel 1.

V1Boulder 3m
12 Rainbow Swirlies Up

Straight up, panel 3

V0Boulder 3m
13 Dark Pink (grey tape) Up

Up and down circuit, panels 3, 4, 5.

V1Boulder 3m
14 Stone 2 Up

Straight up, panel 5.

Boulder
15 White Swirlies Up

Pull up rock over, panel 6

V0Boulder 3m
16 Wood Up

Right side, Mantleshelf aka push up out the pool. Alternate both left and right foot up. No reaching or jumping!

V0Boulder 3m

1.4.2. Wall 2 (30 deg overhang) 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 145.002161, -37.832237

1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013 11 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 145.002153, -37.832243

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Salmon Traverse 16Boulder 6m
2 Blue Swirlies Traverse 18Boulder 6m
3 Pink Traverse 21Boulder 6m
4 Green Traverse 22Boulder 6m
5 Yellow Traverse 23Boulder 6m
6 Blue Traverse 25Boulder 6m
7 Black Traverse 26Boulder 6m
8 Fluro Pink Up

Panels 4, 5 from right

V1Boulder 3m
9 Purple & Yellow Up V5Boulder 3m
10 Blue Up

Panel 3 from right

V5Boulder 3m
11 Stone Up

Panel 7 from right

V1Boulder 3m

1.4.3. Wall 3 (45 deg overhang) 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 145.002231, -37.832193

1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013 13 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 145.002242, -37.832189

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Black Traverse 18Boulder 6m
2 Yellow Traverse 19Boulder 6m
3 Stone Traverse 23Boulder 6m
4 Purple Traverse

Includes purple system hold.

25Boulder 6m
5 Red Traverse Boulder 6m
6 System Holds Up

Left hand end of wall

Boulder 3m
7 Purple & Yellow Up V3Boulder 3m
8 Green Moon Left V3Boulder 3m
9 Green Moon Right V4Boulder
10 Green Star Left V3Boulder
11 Green Star Right V4Boulder
12 Aqua Up V7Boulder
13 Yellow Up Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
6 Rainbow Traverse Trad 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
8 All Blue Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
10 Red Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
11 Light Blue (Swirls) Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
12 Dark Blue Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
13 Black Traverse Boulder 10m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
V0- Orange 1 Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Orange 2 Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Orange 3 Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
14 Green Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
15 Green Traverse Boulder 10m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
V0 Woodie Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Rainbow Swirlies Up Boulder 3m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
White Swirlies Up Boulder 3m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
Wood Up Boulder 3m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
16 Yellow Traverse Boulder 10m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Salmon Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
Salmon Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
18 White Blue Swirl Traverse Boulder 10m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Black Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
Blue Swirlies Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
Black Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
19 Yellow Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
Yellow Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
V1 Green 1 Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Green 2 Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Grey 1 Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Purple Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Red 1 Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Dark Pink (grey tape) Up Boulder 3m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
Stone 1 Up Boulder 3m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
Fluro Pink Up Boulder 3m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
Stone Up Boulder 3m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
V2 Red 2 Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Red 3 Boulder 4m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
21 Blue Traverse Boulder 10m 1.1. Wall 1- Vertical
Pink Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
22 Purple Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
Green Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
V3 Green Moon Left Boulder 3m 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
Green Star Left Boulder 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
Purple & Yellow Up Boulder 3m 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
23 Yellow Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
Stone Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
V4 Green Moon Right Boulder 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
Green Star Right Boulder 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
25 Blue Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
Purple Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
V5 Blue Up Boulder 3m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
Purple & Yellow Up Boulder 3m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
26 Black Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.2.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
V7 Aqua Up Boulder 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
? Stone 2 Up Boulder 1.4.1.1. Routes and Problems as of Jan 2013
Red Traverse Boulder 6m 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
? System Holds Up Boulder 3m 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013
Yellow Up Boulder 1.4.3.1. Routes and Problems as of 2013