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Description

A popular and pleasant little south facing crag with the look and feel of English Gritstone. Excellent rock quality, easy top-rope setups and well bolted. In addition to the following climbs, there is also bouldering (Bardwell traverse) located at the left end of the crag. There are additional minor bouldering areas: (a) a small area approximately 100 m further left of the crag, right next to the track, (b) A few problems can be found scattered in bushland on the West side of Finlay's Ave near the entrance to Turella park (about 10 min walk right of the main crag when facing the trainline).

A 3D model of the main area is available to download here. https://www.box.com/s/6cn9lyfhkmrctz176zv2 (Please note Sketch up V8 is needed to view it)

Approach

Located above Wolli Creek in Earlwood. Catch a train to Bardwell Park station or drive to Fauna St or Sutton Ave, Earlwood. Walk into Girrahween Park, and where the sealed paths converge, take the obvious bush track (east). After 10 minutes of scenic bush walking the track passes directly underneath the crag. Alternative access is from the east end of this same track located downhill from the end of Finlays Avenue, Earlwood (the bush track is marked by a small post labeled TVT). Climbs described left to right (west to east), facing the cliff. Watch out for a small amount of broken glass on the path near the crag.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts at the left end of the bouldering area, which is just left of some slabs about 100 m left of the main buttress. Using a hold out L, gain the slanting arete. Up to rounded topout.

Left end of bouldering wall. Sit start from obvious (chalked) holds. Blunt arete is on. Rounded top out.

At bouldering area 100 metres left of the main crag. Sit start using two holds 1 metre in from arete. Traverse right using holds only below 6 feet. Technical, sustained and pumpy - absolute classic.

1 move problem. Locate a rounded jug about 8 feet off the ground, 2/3rds the way along the Bardwell Traverse. Underneath this at about waist height are two incut holds about 4 inches apart. Dyno from these to the jug.

FA: 2003

Warning: the first bolt has been chopped.

Start at R end of bouldering traverse. Boulder the start then up slab and then left through contrived steepness.

Best forgotten as lowering off will trash the bushes below.

Fun bouldery start, then up slab and up through rooflet to loweroffs.

Up middle of the main slab. Take long slings for lower-off

Up right side of slab past a carrot bolt, then up shallow groove to loweroffs. When climbed directly (for your 17 tick) you may reflect on the route name!

Start 10 m right of MSD, at base of short slab. Up slab to large ledge (DBB), then up ledges.

The narrow bolted slab with an eroding dirt base. Not a great lead for the grade as the bolts aren't in the best positions. On the half way ledge are two double ring bolts, clip the left ones and keep motoring up via a tricky mantle to the top. You'll need to bring your seconder up and possibly walk off, as the top ring bolts are too far back from the edge to allow the rope to be pulled.

Start 5 m left of main buttress, in ferns. Dangle up left along lip and flake in roof. grade 24?

FA: Peter Martin, 1999

Shares start with A. Up to fixed bracket then continue up right side of ramp to shared anchor.

FA: A Forrest, 2013

Start 2m R of A, in corner with ferns. From base of vegetated corner, step up L onto wall and straight up past 4 ring bolts to DBB lower off.

Start at L end of cave under the main wall. Climb lip of cave past 3 rings, and around R of arete and up to chains.

Start directly below the grey streak left of the middle of the main wall. Crank onto wall using tiny holds, and straight up past 3 bolts. Start may be harder than 27, may be a hoax. Definitely not for shorties

Batman start or better to traverse in from the Main wall traverse at about grade 20. Considered a soft-touch.

FA: Peter Martin, 1992

Start as for Kaos, but traverse L along base of main wall, moving up to clip fixed hanger mid-way along, then back along base to join transfixed.

Start up Kaos to 3rd BR, then left across break then up and left to chains at top of Transfixed.

FA: Mike Law

Start 2 m L of Cornered. Step onto R end of small ledge and balance left. Up past 3 rings then weird horizontal dyno R and up small flake to top.

FFA: Mike Law

Start at R edge of small ledge. Straight up passing chopped bolts from the original route. re-bolted with rings.

FA: A. Walters, 1992

Jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Hands to offwidth but you won't need offwidth skills. A big cam or fat hex to protect the final bridging finish. Belay off cams in the horizontal break.

Straight up the bolted slab right of Cornered.

Square cut arete. Thin and technical. Originally soloed

FA: Mike Law, 1974

Contrived squeeze job. Head up H, then veer right to finish up CA.

Contrived wall left of Cornered Again. Unprotected before the RBs of C appeared.

Set

FA: mikl law, 1975

A good route up the corner. Ring locks and bridging to a final heave-ho to finish. Belay off an assortment of carrot bolts needing large hangers.

Face just right of corner with ringbolts.

Left facing thin flake then straight through the steep wall above to rap chain (which may or may not be hanging over edge). Pumpy for a mini-route!

Up the thin groove, break right at the overhang. Rounded exposed top out. One bolt on the main face two for the lower off. Bring a nut or two for the first 7m before the first bolt.

Little wall squeezed in left of TC, using bolts on TC.

The short arete at the right side of the main crag

FFA: Mike Law

Superpumpy for such a short route. Start up The Count to 3rd bolt, then leftwards following easier line across Warm it up and Meat Puppets climbs to hit the final bolt on Whistling in the Dark and up to lip, back R a move to anchor. Backjump

FA: Michael Law, 2016

Up wall two meters right of "The Count". Take care clipping 3rd bolt

Set by Andrew Forrest, 2011

A good highball boulder problem on solid polished orange rock.

The steep seam with one manky piton up high. The usual descent if you solo Slab Master.

This wildly overhanging arete is a great pumpy highball boulder problem. Once had retro-bolts, but these have been chopped.

Start at the left arete of the fin. Up the face just right of the arete to the top. No pro.

3m right of WiB. Hard start then up the slab, passing two rusted carrot bolts to a double bolt belay. Take wires for the bolts, since they're too big for normal bolt brackets.

Line 1 m R of E. Use slopey edge at 5/6 metres with R. Committing top.

As per F except use slopey edge with L and move 1 m R to pocket. Back L to top out.

the slab just R of the tree

Activity

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