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A popular and pleasant little south facing crag with the look and feel of English Gritstone. Excellent rock quality, easy top-rope setups and well bolted. In addition to the following climbs, there is also bouldering (Bardwell traverse) located at the left end of the crag. There are additional minor bouldering areas: (a) a small area approximately 100 m further left of the crag, right next to the track, (b) A few problems can be found scattered in bushland on the West side of Finlay's Ave near the entrance to Turella park (about 10 min walk right of the main crag when facing the trainline).

A 3D model of the main area is available to download here. https://www.box.com/s/6cn9lyfhkmrctz176zv2 (Please note Sketch up V8 is needed to view it)


Located above Wolli Creek in Earlwood. Catch a train to Bardwell Park station or drive to Fauna St or Sutton Ave, Earlwood. Walk into Girrahween Park, and where the sealed paths converge, take the obvious bush track (east). After 10 minutes of scenic bush walking the track passes directly underneath the crag. Alternative access is from the east end of this same track located downhill from the end of Finlays Avenue, Earlwood (the bush track is marked by a small post labeled TVT). Climbs described left to right (west to east), facing the cliff. Watch out for a small amount of broken glass on the path near the crag.


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
{US} V4 ** No Use for Reality Boulder 4m

Starts at the left end of the bouldering area, which is just left of some slabs about 100 m left of the main buttress. Using a hold out L, gain the slanting arete. Up to rounded topout.

V4 *** Mon Panache Boulder 4m

Left end of bouldering wall. Sit start from obvious (chalked) holds. Blunt arete is on. Rounded top out.

V4 *** Mon Panache Eliminate Boulder 4m
V6 Pride Sit-start Boulder
V3 ** Bardwell Traverse Boulder 10m

At bouldering area 100 metres left of the main crag. Sit start using two holds 1 metre in from arete. Traverse right using holds only below 6 feet. Technical, sustained and pumpy - absolute classic.

V3 * Bardwell Dyno Boulder 3m

1 move problem. Locate a rounded jug about 8 feet off the ground, 2/3rds the way along the Bardwell Traverse. Underneath this at about waist height are two incut holds about 4 inches apart. Dyno from these to the jug.

FA: 2003

17 * Who Dunnit Variant Sport 9m

Warning: the first bolt has been chopped.

Start at R end of bouldering traverse. Boulder the start then up slab and then left through contrived steepness.

Best forgotten as lowering off will trash the bushes below.

17 * Who Dunnit? Sport 8m, 5

Fun bouldery start, then up slab and up through rooflet to loweroffs.

15 * The God Delusion Sport 8m, 5

Up middle of the main slab. Take long slings for lower-off

16 * Why Am I Here? Sport 10m, 5

Up right side of slab past a carrot bolt, then up shallow groove to loweroffs. When climbed directly (for your 17 tick) you may reflect on the route name!

12 Mystery Slab Route Sport 12m, 2, 5

Start 10 m right of MSD, at base of short slab. Up slab to large ledge (DBB), then up ledges.

The narrow bolted slab with an eroding dirt base. Not a great lead for the grade as the bolts aren't in the best positions. On the half way ledge are two double ring bolts, clip the left ones and keep motoring up via a tricky mantle to the top. You'll need to bring your seconder up and possibly walk off, as the top ring bolts are too far back from the edge to allow the rope to be pulled.

24 A Sport 10m, 4

Start 5 m left of main buttress, in ferns. Dangle up left along lip and flake in roof. grade 24?

FA: Peter Martin, 1999

19 Teenage Wasteland Sport 8m, 4

Shares start with A. Up to fixed bracket then continue up right side of ramp to shared anchor.

FA: A Forrest, 2013

23 * Mystery Climb Sport 8m, 4

Start 2m R of A, in corner with ferns. From base of vegetated corner, step up L onto wall and straight up past 4 ring bolts to DBB lower off.

25 * Transfixed Sport 12m

Start at L end of cave under the main wall. Climb lip of cave past 3 rings, and around R of arete and up to chains.


Start directly below the grey streak left of the middle of the main wall. Crank onto wall using tiny holds, and straight up past 3 bolts. Start may be harder than 27, may be a hoax. Definitely not for shorties


Batman start or better to traverse in from the Main wall traverse at about grade 20. Considered a soft-touch.

FA: Peter Martin, 1992

21 * Main Wall Traverse Sport 8m, 5

Start as for Kaos, but traverse L along base of main wall, moving up to clip fixed hanger mid-way along, then back along base to join transfixed.


Start up Kaos to 3rd BR, then left across break then up and left to chains at top of Transfixed.

FA: Mike Law

23 ** Kaos Sport 9m, 5

Start 2 m L of Cornered. Step onto R end of small ledge and balance left. Up past 3 rings then weird horizontal dyno R and up small flake to top.

FFA: Mike Law

25 ** Fascination Street Sport 9m, 5

Start at R edge of small ledge. Straight up passing chopped bolts from the original route. re-bolted with rings.

FA: A. Walters, 1992

14 Cornered Trad 9m

Jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Hands to offwidth but you won't need offwidth skills. A big cam or fat hex to protect the final bridging finish. Belay off cams in the horizontal break.

24 * B Sport 10m

Straight up the bolted slab right of Cornered.


Square cut arete. Thin and technical. Originally soloed

FA: Mike Law, 1974

23 * C Sport 10m

Contrived squeeze job. Head up H, then veer right to finish up CA.

23 * Claw Away Unknown 9m

Contrived wall left of Cornered Again. Unprotected before the RBs of C appeared.


FA: mikl law, 1975

15 * Cornered Again Trad 8m

A good route up the corner. Ring locks and bridging to a final heave-ho to finish. Belay off an assortment of carrot bolts needing large hangers.

21 * Whistling in the Dark Sport 9m, 3

Face just right of corner with ringbolts.

22 * Meat Puppets Sport 9m, 3

Left facing thin flake then straight through the steep wall above to rap chain (which may or may not be hanging over edge). Pumpy for a mini-route!


Up the thin groove, break right at the overhang. Rounded exposed top out. One bolt on the main face two for the lower off. Bring a nut or two for the first 7m before the first bolt.

22 Payback Sport 9m

Little wall squeezed in left of TC, using bolts on TC.

20 * The Count Sport 9m, 3

The short arete at the right side of the main crag

FFA: Mike Law

21 ** Countdown to flopsickle Sport 12m, 6

Superpumpy for such a short route. Start up The Count to 3rd bolt, then leftwards following easier line across Warm it up and Meat Puppets climbs to hit the final bolt on Whistling in the Dark and up to lip, back R a move to anchor. Backjump

FA: Michael Law, 2016

18 * Red Rattler Sport 9m, 3

Up wall two meters right of "The Count". Take care clipping 3rd bolt

Set by Andrew Forrest, 2011

18 D Boulder 5m

A good highball boulder problem on solid polished orange rock.

The steep seam with one manky piton up high. The usual descent if you solo Slab Master.

22 V2 * Slabmaster Boulder 6m

This wildly overhanging arete is a great pumpy highball boulder problem. Once had retro-bolts, but these have been chopped.

14 * Wuss in Boots Boulder 8m

Start at the left arete of the fin. Up the face just right of the arete to the top. No pro.

15 V0 E Sport 8m

3m right of WiB. Hard start then up the slab, passing two rusted carrot bolts to a double bolt belay. Take wires for the bolts, since they're too big for normal bolt brackets.

V2 *** F Boulder 8m

Line 1 m R of E. Use slopey edge at 5/6 metres with R. Committing top.


As per F except use slopey edge with L and move 1 m R to pocket. Back L to top out.

V4 ** G Boulder

the slab just R of the tree


Check out what is happening in Earlwood.