Earlwood Rock climbing

44 routes in crag

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Description

A popular and pleasant little south facing crag with the look and feel of English Gritstone. Excellent rock quality, easy top-rope setups and well bolted. In addition to the following climbs, there is also bouldering (Bardwell traverse) located at the left end of the crag. There are additional minor bouldering areas: (a) a small area approximately 100 m further left of the crag, right next to the track, (b) A few problems can be found scattered in bushland on the West side of Finlay's Ave near the entrance to Turella park (about 10 min walk right of the main crag when facing the trainline).

A 3D model of the main area is available to download here. https://www.box.com/s/6cn9lyfhkmrctz176zv2 (Please note Sketch up V8 is needed to view it)

Approach

Located above Wolli Creek in Earlwood. Catch a train to Bardwell Park station or drive to Fauna St or Sutton Ave, Earlwood. Walk into Girrahween Park, and where the sealed paths converge, take the obvious bush track (east). After 10 minutes of scenic bush walking the track passes directly underneath the crag. Alternative access is from the east end of this same track located downhill from the end of Finlays Avenue, Earlwood (the bush track is marked by a small post labeled TVT). Climbs described left to right (west to east), facing the cliff. Watch out for a small amount of broken glass on the path near the crag.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
US V4 * No Use for Reality Boulder 4m

Starts at the left end of the bouldering area, which is just left of some slabs about 100 m left of the main buttress. Using a hold out L, gain the slanting arete. Up to rounded topout.

3
V4 Mon Panache Boulder 4m

Left end of bouldering wall. Sit start from obvious (chalked) holds. Blunt arete is on. Rounded top out.

4
V4 Mon Panache Eliminate Boulder 4m
7
V6 Pride Sit-start Boulder
8
V3 ** Bardwell Traverse Boulder 10m

At bouldering area 100 metres left of the main crag. Sit start using two holds 1 metre in from arete. Traverse right using holds only below 6 feet. Technical, sustained and pumpy - absolute classic.

9
V3 * Bardwell Dyno Boulder 3m

1 move problem. Locate a rounded jug about 8 feet off the ground, 2/3rds the way along the Bardwell Traverse. Underneath this at about waist height are two incut holds about 4 inches apart. Dyno from these to the jug.

FA: 2003

10
17 Mystery Slab A Sport 9m

Start at R end of bouldering traverse. Boulder the start then up slab and then left through contrived steepness.

11
17 Mystery Slab B Sport 8m, 5

As per MSA, but finish directly through small overhang.

12
17 Mystery Slab C Sport 8m, 5

Up middle of the main slab. Take long slings for lower-off

13
16 Mystery Slab D Sport 10m, 5

Right side slab past carot bolt and up to top

14
12 Mystery Slab E Sport 12m, 5

Start 10 m right of MSD, at base of short slab. Up slab to large ledge (DBB), then up ledges.

15
24 A Sport 10m, 4

Start 5 m left of main buttress, in ferns. Dangle up left along lip and flake in roof. grade 24?

FA: Peter Martin, 1999

16
19 Teenage Wasteland Sport 8m, 4

Shares start with A. Up to fixed bracket then continue up right side of ramp to shared anchor.

FA: A Forrest, 2013

17
23 Mystery Climb Sport 8m, 4

Start 2m R of A, in corner with ferns. From base of vegetated corner, step up L onto wall and straight up past 4 ring bolts to DBB lower off.

18
25 * Transfixed Sport 12m

Start at L end of cave under the main wall. Climb lip of cave past 3 rings, and around R of arete and up to chains.

19

Start directly below the grey streak left of the middle of the main wall. Crank onto wall using tiny holds, and straight up past 3 bolts. Start may be harder than 27, with holds missing.

20

Batman start or better to traverse in from the Main wall traverse at about grade 20. Considered a soft-touch.

FA: Peter Martin, 1992

21
21 * Main Wall Traverse Sport 8m, 5

Start as for Kaos, but traverse L along base of main wall, moving up to clip fixed hanger mid-way along, then back along base to join transfixed.

22

Start up Kaos to 3rd BR, then left across break then up and left to chains at top of Transfixed.

FA: Mike Law

23
23 * Kaos Sport 9m, 5

Start 2 m L of Cornered. Step onto R end of small ledge and balance left. Up past 3 rings then weird horizontal dyno R and up small flake to top.

FFA: Mike Law

24
25 * Fascination Street Sport 9m, 5

Start at R edge of small ledge. Straight up passing chopped bolts from the original route. Since it has been re-bolted with rings the route has few holds remaining from the original grade 25.

FA: A. Walters, 1992

25
14 Cornered Trad 9m

Up the obvious corner.

26
24 B Sport 10m
27

Square cut arete. Thin and technical.

FA: Mike Law

28
23 * C Sport 10m
29
23 Claw Away Unknown 9m
30
15 Cornered Again Trad 8m
32
22 Meat Puppets Unknown 9m
34

Up the thin groove, break right at the overhang. Rounded exposed top out. One bolt on the main face two for the lower off. Bring a nut or two for the first 7m before the first bolt.

35
22 Payback Sport 9m

Little wall squeezed in left of TC, using bolts on TC.

36
20 The Count Sport 9m, 3

The short arete at the right side of the main crag

FFA: Mike Law

37
18 Mystery face Sport 9m, 3

Up wall two meters right of "The Count".

38
22 V2 * Slabmaster Sport 6m
39
V2 The Slabmaster Boulder 5m
40
14 Wuss in Boots Boulder 8m
41
US 15 V0 E Sport 8m
42
V2 F Boulder 8m

Line 1 m R of E. Use slopey edge at 5/6 metres with R. Committing top.

43

As per F except use slopey edge with L and move 1 m R to pocket. Back L to top out.

44
V4 G Boulder

the slab just R of the tree

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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