Earlwood Rock climbing44 routes in crag
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A popular and pleasant little south facing crag with the look and feel of English Gritstone. Excellent rock quality, easy top-rope setups and well bolted. In addition to the following climbs, there is also bouldering (Bardwell traverse) located at the left end of the crag. There are additional minor bouldering areas: (a) a small area approximately 100 m further left of the crag, right next to the track, (b) A few problems can be found scattered in bushland on the West side of Finlay's Ave near the entrance to Turella park (about 10 min walk right of the main crag when facing the trainline).
A 3D model of the main area is available to download here. https://www.box.com/s/6cn9lyfhkmrctz176zv2 (Please note Sketch up V8 is needed to view it)
Located above Wolli Creek in Earlwood. Catch a train to Bardwell Park station or drive to Fauna St or Sutton Ave, Earlwood. Walk into Girrahween Park, and where the sealed paths converge, take the obvious bush track (east). After 10 minutes of scenic bush walking the track passes directly underneath the crag. Alternative access is from the east end of this same track located downhill from the end of Finlays Avenue, Earlwood (the bush track is marked by a small post labeled TVT). Climbs described left to right (west to east), facing the cliff. Watch out for a small amount of broken glass on the path near the crag.
At bouldering area 100 metres left of the main crag. Sit start using two holds 1 metre in from arete. Traverse right using holds only below 6 feet. Technical, sustained and pumpy - absolute classic.
1 move problem. Locate a rounded jug about 8 feet off the ground, 2/3rds the way along the Bardwell Traverse. Underneath this at about waist height are two incut holds about 4 inches apart. Dyno from these to the jug.
Start at R end of bouldering traverse. Boulder the start then up slab and then left through contrived steepness.
Best forgotten as lowering off will trash the bushes below.
Fun bouldery start, then up slab and up through rooflet to loweroffs.
Up middle of the main slab. Take long slings for lower-off
Up right side of slab past a carrot bolt, then up shallow groove to loweroffs. When climbed directly (for your 17 tick) you may reflect on the route name!
Start 10 m right of MSD, at base of short slab. Up slab to large ledge (DBB), then up ledges.
The narrow bolted slab with an eroding dirt base. Not a great lead for the grade as the bolts aren't in the best positions. On the half way ledge are two double ring bolts, clip the left ones and keep motoring up via a tricky mantle to the top. You'll need to bring your seconder up and possibly walk off, as the top ring bolts are too far back from the edge to allow the rope to be pulled.