Topo #6745

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 * No Use for Reality

Starts at the left end of the bouldering area, which is just left of some slabs about 100 m left of the main buttress. Using a hold out L, gain the slanting arete. Up to rounded topout.

V4 Boulder 4m Unlink route
2 No Use for Reality (Sit Start)
V6 Boulder 4m Unlink route
3 Mon Panache

Left end of bouldering wall. Sit start from obvious (chalked) holds. Blunt arete is on. Rounded top out.

V4 Boulder 4m Unlink route
4 Mon Panache Eliminate
V4 Boulder 4m Unlink route
5 Mon Panache RH Variant
V5 Boulder Unlink route
6 Pride comes before a Fall
V5 Boulder Unlink route
7 Pride Sit-start
V6 Boulder Unlink route
8 * Bardwell Traverse

At bouldering area 100 metres left of the main crag. Sit start using two holds 1 metre in from arete. Traverse right using holds only below 6 feet. Technical, sustained and pumpy - absolute classic.

V3 Boulder 10m Unlink route
9 Bardwell Dyno

1 move problem. Locate a rounded jug about 8 feet off the ground, 2/3rds the way along the Bardwell Traverse. Underneath this at about waist height are two incut holds about 4 inches apart. Dyno from these to the jug.

V3 Boulder 3m Unlink route
10 Who Dunnit Variant

Start at R end of bouldering traverse. Boulder the start then up slab and then left through contrived steepness. Best forgotten as lowering off will trash the bushes below.

17 Sport 9m Unlink route
11 Who Dunnit?

Fun bouldery start, then up slab and up through rooflet to loweroffs.

17 Sport 8m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #1544

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Route Grade Popularity Style
8 * Bardwell Traverse

At bouldering area 100 metres left of the main crag. Sit start using two holds 1 metre in from arete. Traverse right using holds only below 6 feet. Technical, sustained and pumpy - absolute classic.

V3 Boulder 10m Unlink route
10 Who Dunnit Variant

Start at R end of bouldering traverse. Boulder the start then up slab and then left through contrived steepness. Best forgotten as lowering off will trash the bushes below.

17 Sport 9m Unlink route
11 Who Dunnit?

Fun bouldery start, then up slab and up through rooflet to loweroffs.

17 Sport 8m, 5 Unlink route
12 The God Delusion

Up middle of the main slab. Take long slings for lower-off

15 Sport 8m, 5 Unlink route
13 Why Am I Here?

Up right side of slab past a carrot bolt, then up shallow groove to loweroffs. When climbed directly (for your 17 tick) you may reflect on the route name!

16 Sport 10m, 5 Unlink route
14 Mystery Slab Route

Start 10 m right of MSD, at base of short slab. Up slab to large ledge (DBB), then up ledges. The narrow bolted slab with an eroding dirt base. Not a great lead for the grade as the bolts aren't in the best positions. On the half way ledge are two double ring bolts, clip the left ones and keep motoring up via a tricky mantle to the top. You'll need to bring your seconder up and possibly walk off, as the top ring bolts are too far back from the edge to allow the rope to be pulled.

12 Sport 12m 2, 5 Unlink route
9 Bardwell Dyno

1 move problem. Locate a rounded jug about 8 feet off the ground, 2/3rds the way along the Bardwell Traverse. Underneath this at about waist height are two incut holds about 4 inches apart. Dyno from these to the jug.

V3 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #1531

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Route Grade Popularity Style
18 * Transfixed

Start at L end of cave under the main wall. Climb lip of cave past 3 rings, and around R of arete and up to chains.

25 Sport 12m Unlink route
17 Mystery Climb

Start 2m R of A, in corner with ferns. From base of vegetated corner, step up L onto wall and straight up past 4 ring bolts to DBB lower off.

23 Sport 8m, 4 Unlink route
15 A

Start 5 m left of main buttress, in ferns. Dangle up left along lip and flake in roof. grade 24?

24 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
16 Teenage Wasteland

Shares start with A. Up to fixed bracket then continue up right side of ramp to shared anchor.

19 Sport 8m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #3316

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Route Grade Popularity Style
15 A

Start 5 m left of main buttress, in ferns. Dangle up left along lip and flake in roof. grade 24?

24 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
17 Mystery Climb

Start 2m R of A, in corner with ferns. From base of vegetated corner, step up L onto wall and straight up past 4 ring bolts to DBB lower off.

23 Sport 8m, 4 Unlink route
18 * Transfixed

Start at L end of cave under the main wall. Climb lip of cave past 3 rings, and around R of arete and up to chains.

25 Sport 12m Unlink route
19 * Science of Imaginary Solutions

Start directly below the grey streak left of the middle of the main wall. Crank onto wall using tiny holds, and straight up past 3 bolts. Start may be harder than 27, may be a hoax. Definitely not for shorties

27 Sport 8m Unlink route
20 Science of Imaginary Solutions (batman start)

Batman start or better to traverse in from the Main wall traverse at about grade 20. Considered a soft-touch.

21 Sport 8m Unlink route
22 * Kaboodle

Start up Kaos to 3rd BR, then left across break then up and left to chains at top of Transfixed.

23 Trad 10m Unlink route
23 * Kaos

Start 2 m L of Cornered. Step onto R end of small ledge and balance left. Up past 3 rings then weird horizontal dyno R and up small flake to top.

23 Sport 9m, 5 Unlink route
24 * Fascination Street

Start at R edge of small ledge. Straight up passing chopped bolts from the original route. re-bolted with rings.

25 Sport 9m, 5 Unlink route
25 Cornered

Jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Hands to offwidth but you won't need offwidth skills. A big cam or fat hex to protect the final bridging finish. Belay off cams in the horizontal break.

14 Trad 9m Unlink route
26 B

Straight up the bolted slab right of Cornered.

24 Sport 10m Unlink route
27 * Hopit

Square cut arete. Thin and technical.

23 Sport 8m Unlink route
28 * C

Contrived squeeze job. Head up H, then veer right to finish up CA.

23 Sport 10m Unlink route
29 Claw Away

Contrived wall left of Cornered Again. Unprotected before the RBs of C appeared.

23 Unknown 9m Unlink route
30 Cornered Again

A good route up the corner. Ring locks and bridging to a final heave-ho to finish. Belay off an assortment of carrot bolts needing large hangers.

15 Trad 8m Unlink route
31 Whistling in the Dark

Face just right of corner with ringbolts.

21 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route
32 Meat Puppets

Left facing thin flake then straight through the steep wall above to rap chain (which may or may not be hanging over edge). Pumpy for a mini-route!

22 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route
33 Warm It Up direct finish
20 Mixed 9m, 1 Unlink route
34 Warm It Up

Up the thin groove, break right at the overhang. Rounded exposed top out. One bolt on the main face two for the lower off. Bring a nut or two for the first 7m before the first bolt.

16 Mixed 10m, 1 Unlink route
35 Payback

Little wall squeezed in left of TC, using bolts on TC.

22 Sport 9m Unlink route
36 * The Count

The short arete at the right side of the main crag

20 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route
39 * Slabmaster

This wildly overhanging arete is a great pumpy highball boulder problem. Once had retro-bolts, but these have been chopped.

22 V2 Boulder 6m Unlink route
38 D

A good highball boulder problem on solid polished orange rock. The steep seam with one manky piton up high. The usual descent if you solo Slab Master.

18 Boulder 5m Unlink route
37 Mystery face

Up wall two meters right of "The Count".

18 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route
16 Teenage Wasteland

Shares start with A. Up to fixed bracket then continue up right side of ramp to shared anchor.

19 Sport 8m, 4 Unlink route
21 * Main Wall Traverse

Start as for Kaos, but traverse L along base of main wall, moving up to clip fixed hanger mid-way along, then back along base to join transfixed.

21 Sport 8m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #1530

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Route Grade Popularity Style
18 * Transfixed

Start at L end of cave under the main wall. Climb lip of cave past 3 rings, and around R of arete and up to chains.

25 Sport 12m Unlink route
19 * Science of Imaginary Solutions

Start directly below the grey streak left of the middle of the main wall. Crank onto wall using tiny holds, and straight up past 3 bolts. Start may be harder than 27, may be a hoax. Definitely not for shorties

27 Sport 8m Unlink route
20 Science of Imaginary Solutions (batman start)

Batman start or better to traverse in from the Main wall traverse at about grade 20. Considered a soft-touch.

21 Sport 8m Unlink route
22 * Kaboodle

Start up Kaos to 3rd BR, then left across break then up and left to chains at top of Transfixed.

23 Trad 10m Unlink route
23 * Kaos

Start 2 m L of Cornered. Step onto R end of small ledge and balance left. Up past 3 rings then weird horizontal dyno R and up small flake to top.

23 Sport 9m, 5 Unlink route
24 * Fascination Street

Start at R edge of small ledge. Straight up passing chopped bolts from the original route. re-bolted with rings.

25 Sport 9m, 5 Unlink route
25 Cornered

Jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Hands to offwidth but you won't need offwidth skills. A big cam or fat hex to protect the final bridging finish. Belay off cams in the horizontal break.

14 Trad 9m Unlink route
21 * Main Wall Traverse

Start as for Kaos, but traverse L along base of main wall, moving up to clip fixed hanger mid-way along, then back along base to join transfixed.

21 Sport 8m, 5 Unlink route
17 Mystery Climb

Start 2m R of A, in corner with ferns. From base of vegetated corner, step up L onto wall and straight up past 4 ring bolts to DBB lower off.

23 Sport 8m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #1529

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Route Grade Popularity Style
27 * Hopit

Square cut arete. Thin and technical.

23 Sport 8m Unlink route
28 * C

Contrived squeeze job. Head up H, then veer right to finish up CA.

23 Sport 10m Unlink route
29 Claw Away

Contrived wall left of Cornered Again. Unprotected before the RBs of C appeared.

23 Unknown 9m Unlink route
30 Cornered Again

A good route up the corner. Ring locks and bridging to a final heave-ho to finish. Belay off an assortment of carrot bolts needing large hangers.

15 Trad 8m Unlink route
31 Whistling in the Dark

Face just right of corner with ringbolts.

21 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route
21 * Main Wall Traverse

Start as for Kaos, but traverse L along base of main wall, moving up to clip fixed hanger mid-way along, then back along base to join transfixed.

21 Sport 8m, 5 Unlink route
32 Meat Puppets

Left facing thin flake then straight through the steep wall above to rap chain (which may or may not be hanging over edge). Pumpy for a mini-route!

22 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route
18 * Transfixed

Start at L end of cave under the main wall. Climb lip of cave past 3 rings, and around R of arete and up to chains.

25 Sport 12m Unlink route
19 * Science of Imaginary Solutions

Start directly below the grey streak left of the middle of the main wall. Crank onto wall using tiny holds, and straight up past 3 bolts. Start may be harder than 27, may be a hoax. Definitely not for shorties

27 Sport 8m Unlink route
20 Science of Imaginary Solutions (batman start)

Batman start or better to traverse in from the Main wall traverse at about grade 20. Considered a soft-touch.

21 Sport 8m Unlink route
22 * Kaboodle

Start up Kaos to 3rd BR, then left across break then up and left to chains at top of Transfixed.

23 Trad 10m Unlink route
23 * Kaos

Start 2 m L of Cornered. Step onto R end of small ledge and balance left. Up past 3 rings then weird horizontal dyno R and up small flake to top.

23 Sport 9m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #1528

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Route Grade Popularity Style
25 Cornered

Jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Hands to offwidth but you won't need offwidth skills. A big cam or fat hex to protect the final bridging finish. Belay off cams in the horizontal break.

14 Trad 9m Unlink route
26 B

Straight up the bolted slab right of Cornered.

24 Sport 10m Unlink route
27 * Hopit

Square cut arete. Thin and technical.

23 Sport 8m Unlink route
31 Whistling in the Dark

Face just right of corner with ringbolts.

21 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route
32 Meat Puppets

Left facing thin flake then straight through the steep wall above to rap chain (which may or may not be hanging over edge). Pumpy for a mini-route!

22 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route
33 Warm It Up direct finish
20 Mixed 9m, 1 Unlink route
34 Warm It Up

Up the thin groove, break right at the overhang. Rounded exposed top out. One bolt on the main face two for the lower off. Bring a nut or two for the first 7m before the first bolt.

16 Mixed 10m, 1 Unlink route
35 Payback

Little wall squeezed in left of TC, using bolts on TC.

22 Sport 9m Unlink route
36 * The Count

The short arete at the right side of the main crag

20 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #8049 - Slabmaster wall

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Route Grade Popularity Style
39 * Slabmaster

This wildly overhanging arete is a great pumpy highball boulder problem. Once had retro-bolts, but these have been chopped.

22 V2 Boulder 6m Unlink route
38 D

A good highball boulder problem on solid polished orange rock. The steep seam with one manky piton up high. The usual descent if you solo Slab Master.

18 Boulder 5m Unlink route

Topo #8050 - Earlwood right wall

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Route Grade Popularity Style
40 Wuss in Boots

Start at the left arete of the fin. Up the face just right of the arete to the top. No pro.

14 Boulder 8m Unlink route
41 E

3m right of WiB. Hard start then up the slab, passing two rusted carrot bolts to a double bolt belay. Take wires for the bolts, since they're too big for normal bolt brackets.

15 V0 Sport 8m Unlink route

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