Area Guide for Iron Cove

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Iron Cove 37 routes in Area

12435

1 Bridgewater Park, 2 Iron Cove Bridge, 3 King George Park, 4 Callan Point, 5 Rodd Park

seasonality

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.154023, -33.863776

Description:

Iron Cove Bay offers 8 different locations for some bay side bouldering. Some locations are dependent on low tide for access. Please take 10 seconds to clean holds after working problems. Callin Point AKA The Margin Crag had a large build up of chalk (nice to see so much traffic) making the holds slippery.

Approach:

All crags have easy access. Park your car and incorporate a walk of a few minutes and there you are. Good crags for short, easy work outs when you can't get to Diamond Bay, Sutherland or other impressive crags. Park your car, bike or pushy and walk on it. All crags are by the water and the famous Bay Run.

Ethic: inherited from Inner West

Respect to the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the Inner West has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com

History:

Apparently some problems were developed years ago but nothing was ever registered. Ranger Dave and Brendon Allan Flanagan changed all that.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.1. Bridgewater Park 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.166438, -33.859932

Description:

An old bay side quarry which now offers some amazing traverses on the face of Balmain Shores. Bring a brush as it can get a little sandy with wash off from the top. Get ready for a solid pumpy workout!

Approach:

Park at the end of Margaret Street Rozelle and walk down the stairs to the park. Routes described from left to right facing the crag.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

History:

A disused quarry opposite Birkenhead Point Shopping Centre, now a convenient suburban crag. Developed by Brendon Allan Flanagan and Ranger Dave in 2012.

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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Harros Horrendous Horizontal Hammering PUMPY! Start at the hidden undercling 30cm to the right of the hand rail to get up on the wall and traverse to the brown wall at the very end. To exit either step off onto the brown wall for an easy finish or round the corner as the final challenge. If you take the Pepsi challenge and go for the hard finish make sure your heals DO NOT touch the brown wall, stand tall on your toes, round the corner and step off onto the cement cover. FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V4	Boulder 20m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago WOW! what a solid traverse. You have to battle with some sand and dodgy holds, but this is super ...
2		Harros Halfway Hammering Starting where the graffiti is, use the side pull to start the problem. Make your way up and continue as for HHHH. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V2	Boulder 14m
3		Horro's Down But Not Dirty Starting at the lowest point of HHHH traverse right and finish the problem as for HHHH. Remember to keep your feet from getting dirty! FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1	Boulder 6m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago Good to stay low!
4		Harros Quick Finish From a sit start make your way up and finish around the corner, without touching the concrete wall. Tricky balancing moves FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1	Boulder 3m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago Got ya! Ranger Dave 5 months ago A good lesson not to get to cocky - V1... easy, right? It didn't stop me popping off as I went ar...

1.2. Iron Cove Bridge 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.163288, -33.860775

Description:

A modest clump of rock supporting some good variety of grades and styles. Climbs are characterised by a mid climb mantle followed by a short slab. Pumpy sit starts, little crimps and rounded slappers makes this a fun little location!

Approach:

Located just north east of King George Park in Rozelle.

From the City of Sydney head west over the ANZAC Bridge and turn right on to Victoria Rd, towards Rozelle.

The Boulders are found just underneath the Iron Cove Bridge, so before you drive over it and get thoroughly lost, turn Left down Tolelle or Clubb and crash your car at the park.

Its only a short walk along the river towards Victoria Bridge

History:

Developed by the outstanding, amazing, gravity defying and CRAZY Ranger Dave. History submitted by Brendon Allan Flanagan just incase Ranger Dave forgets to do it.

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1.2.1. Industrial Revolution 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Boulder

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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Progress Forward FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V1	Boulder 4m
2		Gold Rush FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V1	Boulder 3m
3		Molten Metal FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V4	Boulder 3m
4		Industry over Ecology FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V3	Boulder 3m
5		Pure Locomotion FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V2	Boulder 3m

1.3. King George Park 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.161311, -33.862912

Description:

A couple of boulders are located near the walking track on the north western side of the oval. Further along the shore line are a number of sandy boulders with bad landings.

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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Project 1		Boulder
2		Project 2		Boulder
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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
3		Project 3		Boulder
4		Project 4		Boulder
5		Project 5		Boulder

1.4. Callan Point 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.159641, -33.862384

Description:

A small but worthwhile outcrop located at the tip of Callan Point. The grassy landing makes the small overhang quite pleasant. Climbs are described from left to right facing the boulder. The crag gets sun from late morning til sunset and is protected from the wind on the bay. Tape your fingers up before attacking the problems as the rock's rough and can take chunks out of your fingers if you're not careful! Whatever you do don't let this deter you from this crag, the problems are well worth the effort of taping up!

Approach:

The crag is best approached from Waterfront Drive.

History:

A young climbing princess from the Czech Republic going by the name of Radka was found by the developer at the crag one sunny summer afternoon. With chalk on her hands, a smile on her face and her glass climbing shoes on, young Radka was enjoying what the crag had on offer. The pumped Czech princess mentioned that the crag was like a wonderful and mystical margin. The developer didn't understand what she meant, and only partially because of her accent. As the Czech princess chalked up and bouldered on she continued her fairy tale by saying there was a well defined boarder, in her magical eyes, between the water and the rock. After standing there scratching his head in wonder and planting some beans he just bought from a man on the side of the road, the developer decided that an AKA had been born for Callan Point. And just like all good Czech fairy tales, everybody chalked up, climbed on and lived happily ever after. The End.

Crag developed by Brendon Allan Flanagan in 2012.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Did It Start low on the arête with your left and right hand in the obvious pockets. Make your way up the arête and exit to the right. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1	Boulder 2m		Brendon Flanagan 7 months ago Great crux.
2		The Long Way To Did It Start at the lowest point on the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the left. Traverse left and finish by completing Did It. Extremely pumpy! FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V3	Boulder 4m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago Nice pump! Its actually quite good how most of these climbs start in the same spot - the holds ...
3		Exit Stage Left Start at the lowest point on the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the left. Make your way up to the second tier with a dyno and top out on the third tier to be king of the world. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1	Boulder 3m		Brendon Flanagan 7 months ago Great top out!
4		In Loving Memory Of Wilma Start at the lowest point on the the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the right. Finish by dynoing to the reachy slopper at the top. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V3	Boulder 2m

1.5. Rodd Park 19 routes in Area

21

1 Ergometer Wall, 2 Super 8

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.149063, -33.865990

Description:

A series of short wall and roof problems. The short wall has a nice grassy landing while the roof, with slopers, has a rock landing.

Approach:

The bouldering is located in Rodd Park of Rodd Point and can only be approached by one direction if driving. There are round abouts either side of Rodd Park to help return if you miss the turn off.

If driving in a southernly direction along Henley Marine Drive, Rodd Point, turn left into Rodd Park. If driving eastly along Henley Marine Drive, Rodd Point, drive past Rodd Park, perform a u-turn at the round about and enter as for south bound description.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

History:

Brendon Allan Flanagan grew up playing in this park. Ranger Dave did not. But together they used their powers for good, not eveil and came up with some awesome problems. The developers did not wear their underwear on the outside of their pants while developing this area in October and November of 2012.

1.5.1. Ergometer Wall 11 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.148659, -33.866021

Description:

Call out to any rower you see on Iron Cove Bay and ask them what they think of the ergometer (ergo) and they'll tell you it's all about the same sequence repeated over and over again. All the problems on Ergoemeter Wall use the same sequence from start to finish. If you don't like heel hooks and mantling then this IS NOT the crag for you. Problems described from left to right facing the wall. High tide will cover the landing for all the overhang problems on Ergometer Wall.

Approach:

Walk into Rodd Park and head right to the first stone outcrop you can see. Ergometer Wall is the short face including the overhang.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

History:

When the developer was knee high to a grass hopper, he would ride his bike over to Rodd Park and play on the rocks to escape the evil clutches of his sister. Not once did he ever dream that one day he would be registering some amazing problems there on the even more amazing web site thecrag.com.

Crag developed in 2012 by Brendon Allan Flanagan and Ranger Dave.

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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Spoon Blade Matching your hands on the low ledge throw your left heel up and top out. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1	Boulder 3m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago This is a great spot for practicing your mantles; thought as the description states; its all the ...
2		From Square to Feather Same start as for SB but throw your right heel up and top out. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1	Boulder 3m
3		Stroke Side Match hands up top, feet low, left heel up and top out. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1	Boulder 3m
4		Starboard Side Same as for Stroke Side but use your right heel and top out. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1	Boulder 3m
5		Easy Oars! Match hands on the raised lip, left foot up and top out. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1	Boulder 3m
6		Hands On! Same start as for EO except throw your right heel up and top out. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1	Boulder 3m
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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
7		Ready All, Row! Match your hands on the front left high ledge. Feet low, now top out. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1 to V2	Boulder 3m
8		Roll It! Same start as for RAR, but exit right. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V1 to V2	Boulder 3m
9		Shoulders! Ready! Up! Match hands on the front right low ledge. Start feet low then exit left. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V2	Boulder 3m
10		One Foot Up And Out! Same start as for SRU, starting with your feet low and exit right. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012	V2	Boulder 3m
11		Follow Your Favorites Everyone has a favorite move - be it a fist jam, layback or mono For one man its all in the name Brendon "The Heel" Flanagan loves nothing more than using three (or four) limbs to hang his weight! Whether it is a over hang (understandable) or a Slab (I still don't know how he does it!) - The heel hook is a constant tool in his arsenal! This challenge is dedicated to him Sit start at the left most part of the Ergo wall. Move up and right till you've got the ledge and immediately throw a heel up. Now without losing a heel off the ledge move as far as humanly possible. Once you pop - mark the spot with a bit of chalk and challenge your mates to beat it! Record currently stands at 6m	V1	Boulder 1m		Radka 9 weeks ago traversed 4.5m Brendon Flanagan 9 weeks ago An excellent traverse and well worth the effort. A good work out and use of three limbs. Made it ...

1.5.2. Super 8 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.149434, -33.865959

Description:

Hello Dave, a description would be nice mate.

Approach:

Chunk of Rock right next to the GIANT 8 Knots sign.

History:

Another crag brought to you by Ranger Dave in 2012.

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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Super 8 Traverse FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V3	Boulder 6m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago Dogged the start a bit - solid crimpers as you lean over the bulge. a great mix of holds and foot...
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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
2		Shin Splints and Shit sits FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V1	Boulder 3m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago Can potential be harder is you don't look for the goods
3		Project 1		Boulder Project 3m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago Ugh! solid start. Its definitely hard to under cling when you have no foot holds!
4		Wasp Guts, Yummy, Yummy FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V2	Boulder 3m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago Awesome moves!
5		Buff Chicks in Spandex FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V2	Boulder 3m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago I swear some of the rowing girls had arms bigger than mine. great start with a crimpy finish - I'...
6		Project 2		Boulder Project 3m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago What a solid, fun start! that first left hand reach is surprisingly good. I just have to stick th...
7		Figged Beyond Belief FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V4	Boulder 4m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago Definitely a favorite! powerful start and plenty of options to move the body weight around. argh!...
8		Fruit Fetish FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012	V3	Boulder 3m		Ranger Dave 5 months ago Not bad at all! its tempting to get out of the heel hooks early (I used 3??) but I stuck with it ...

1.6. Henley Marine Drive 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Numerous sandstone retaining walls can be found along Henley Marine Drive.

1.7. Mystery Bay 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Some sandy boulders with big holds can be found at low tide just west of the jetty at the end of Thompson St.

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Area
V1			Harros Quick Finish	Boulder 3m	1.1. Bridgewater Park
			Horro's Down But Not Dirty	Boulder 6m	1.1. Bridgewater Park
			Gold Rush	Boulder 3m	1.2.1. Industrial Revolution
			Progress Forward	Boulder 4m	1.2.1. Industrial Revolution
			Did It	Boulder 2m	1.4. Callan Point
			Exit Stage Left	Boulder 3m	1.4. Callan Point
			Easy Oars!	Boulder 3m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
			Follow Your Favorites	Boulder 1m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
			From Square to Feather	Boulder 3m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
			Hands On!	Boulder 3m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
			Spoon Blade	Boulder 3m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
			Starboard Side	Boulder 3m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
			Stroke Side	Boulder 3m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
			Shin Splints and Shit sits	Boulder 3m	1.5.2. Super 8
V1 to V2			Ready All, Row!	Boulder 3m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
			Roll It!	Boulder 3m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
V2			Harros Halfway Hammering	Boulder 14m	1.1. Bridgewater Park
			Pure Locomotion	Boulder 3m	1.2.1. Industrial Revolution
			One Foot Up And Out!	Boulder 3m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
			Shoulders! Ready! Up!	Boulder 3m	1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
			Buff Chicks in Spandex	Boulder 3m	1.5.2. Super 8
			Wasp Guts, Yummy, Yummy	Boulder 3m	1.5.2. Super 8
V3			Industry over Ecology	Boulder 3m	1.2.1. Industrial Revolution
			In Loving Memory Of Wilma	Boulder 2m	1.4. Callan Point
			The Long Way To Did It	Boulder 4m	1.4. Callan Point
			Fruit Fetish	Boulder 3m	1.5.2. Super 8
			Super 8 Traverse	Boulder 6m	1.5.2. Super 8
V4			Harros Horrendous Horizontal Hammering	Boulder 20m	1.1. Bridgewater Park
			Molten Metal	Boulder 3m	1.2.1. Industrial Revolution
			Figged Beyond Belief	Boulder 4m	1.5.2. Super 8
?			Project 2	Boulder	1.3. King George Park
			Project 1	Boulder	1.3. King George Park
			Project 3	Boulder	1.3. King George Park
			Project 4	Boulder	1.3. King George Park
			Project 5	Boulder	1.3. King George Park
			Project 1	Boulder Project 3m	1.5.2. Super 8
			Project 2	Boulder Project 3m	1.5.2. Super 8