A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Iron Cove 42 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.154023, -33.863776

Description:

Iron Cove Bay offers 8 different locations for some bay side bouldering. Some locations are dependent on low tide for access. Please take 10 seconds to clean holds after working problems. Callin Point AKA The Margin Crag had a large build up of chalk (nice to see so much traffic) making the holds slippery.

Approach:

All crags have easy access. Park your car and incorporate a walk of a few minutes and there you are. Good crags for short, easy work outs when you can't get to Diamond Bay, Sutherland or other impressive crags. Park your car, bike or pushy and walk on it. All crags are by the water and the famous Bay Run.

History:

Apparently some problems were developed years ago but nothing was ever registered. Ranger Dave and Brendon Allan Flanagan changed all that.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.1. Bridgewater Park 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.166438, -33.859932

Description:

An old bay side quarry which now offers some amazing traverses on the face of Balmain Shores. Bring a brush as it can get a little sandy with wash off from the top. Get ready for a solid pumpy workout!

Approach:

Park at the end of Margaret Street Rozelle and walk down the stairs to the park. Routes described from left to right facing the crag.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

History:

A disused quarry opposite Birkenhead Point Shopping Centre, now a convenient suburban crag. Developed by Brendon Flanagan and Ranger Dave in 2012.

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Harros Horrendous Horizontal Hammering

PUMPY! Start at the hidden undercling 30cm to the right of the hand rail to get up on the wall and traverse to the brown wall at the very end. To exit either step off onto the brown wall for an easy finish or round the corner as the final challenge. If you take the Pepsi challenge and go for the hard finish make sure your heals DO NOT touch the brown wall, stand tall on your toes, round the corner and step off onto the cement cover.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V4Boulder 20m
2 Harros Halfway Hammering

Starting where the graffiti is, use the side pull to start the problem. Make your way up and continue as for HHHH.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V2Boulder 14m
3 Horro's Down But Not Dirty

Starting at the lowest point of HHHH traverse right and finish the problem as for HHHH. Remember to keep your feet from getting dirty!

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 6m
4 Harros Quick Finish

From a sit start make your way up and finish around the corner, without touching the concrete wall.

Tricky balancing moves

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 3m

1.2. Industrial Revolution 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.163071, -33.860968

Description:

>CRAG CARE UPDATE: "9th of April, 2014' - This boulder has been cleaned and chalked up with some problems regraded and giving new descriptions"

A modest clump of rock supporting some good variety of grades and styles. Climbs are characterised by a mid climb mantle followed by a short slab. Pumpy sit starts, little crimps and rounded slappers makes this a fun little location!

Approach:

Located just north east of King George Park in Rozelle.

From the City of Sydney head west over the ANZAC Bridge and turn right on to Victoria Rd, towards Rozelle.

The Boulders are found just underneath the Iron Cove Bridge, so before you drive over it and get thoroughly lost, turn Left down Tolelle or Clubb and crash your car at the park.

Its only a short walk along the river towards Iron Cove Bridge.

Located just north east of King George Park in Rozelle.

From the City of Sydney head west over the ANZAC Bridge and turn right on to Victoria Rd, towards Rozelle.

The Boulders are found just underneath the Iron Cove Bridge, so before you drive over it and get thoroughly lost, turn Left down Tolelle or Clubb and crash your car at the park.

Its only a short walk along the river towards Iron Cove Bridge.

History:

Developed by Ranger Dave when scouring Iron Cove for new boulders

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Progress Forward

A solid sit start followed by a enjoyable angled arete.

Sit start under right most arete. Move straight up till you hit the arete and follow it to the left.

Discover the lovely holds left and right of the arete and top out

Can be done as a V0 Stand Start

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V1Boulder 4m
2 Gold Rush

A bare face? No, a delicate start with a satisfying finish

Stand Start in the middle of the Golden vertical streak just left of "Progress Forward"

Head straight up the bulbous rock using some balancing moves and top out over the rounded bulge without using the same holds hs "PF"

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V2Boulder 3m
3 ** Molten Metal

A Powerful sit start with a though provoking finish

Sit start just left of the Gold streak, and work your way up keeping in between this and the lichen streak of "IOE" - The holds in these two area's are off

commit to a balancing mantle and the rounded section to top out

Drop the grade to a V2 for a stand start.

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V3Boulder 3m
4 ** Industry over Ecology

Some committing lichen covered holds makes this a challenging problem

Sit Start under just right of the big patch of ferns and move up the black lichen covered part of the rock using sneaky crimpers and some tender footing.

A satisfying problem

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V3Boulder 3m
5 ** Pure Locomotion

Aww yea! a satisfying dyno to the jutting nose of the arete. A most enjoyable move!

Sit start under the prow with your feet on the rock in front of you (not on the rock embedded in the ground)

Power up the prow, match and staying right of the arete and layback your way up.

The start alone is worth repeating again and again!

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V2Boulder 3m

1.3. King George Park 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.161311, -33.862912

Description:

< All Projects are Open to anyone desiring the Challenge!>

A couple of boulders are located near the walking track on the north western side of the oval. Further along the shore line are a number of sandy boulders with bad landings.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 1 Boulder
2 Project 2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Project 3 Boulder
4 Project 4 Boulder
5 Project 5 Boulder

1.4. Callan Point 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.159676, -33.862402

Description:

A small but worthwhile outcrop located at the tip of Callan Point that holds some of the best bouldering in the area. The grassy landing and full afternoon sun makes the small overhang an excellent place to enjoy a couple of hours outdoors

The crag gets sun from late morning til sunset and is protected from the wind on the bay. Feel free to tape your fingers up before attacking the problems as the rock's rough and can take chunks out of your fingers if you're not careful!

Whatever you do don't let this deter you from this crag, the problems are well worth the effort!

Climbs are described from left to right facing the boulder.

Approach:

The crag is best approached from Waterfront Drive.

History:

A young climbing princess from the Czech Republic going by the name of Radka was found by the developer at the crag one sunny summer afternoon. With chalk on her hands, a smile on her face and her glass climbing shoes on, young Radka was enjoying what the crag had on offer. The pumped Czech princess mentioned that the crag was like a wonderful and mystical margin. The developer didn't understand what she meant, and only partially because of her accent. As the Czech princess chalked up and bouldered on she continued her fairy tale by saying there was a well defined boarder, in her magical eyes, between the water and the rock. After standing there scratching his head in wonder and planting some beans he just bought from a man on the side of the road, the developer decided that an AKA had been born for Callan Point. And just like all good Czech fairy tales, everybody chalked up, climbed on and lived happily ever after. The End.

Crag developed by Brendon Flanagan in 2012 as a lead up to the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Did It

Start low on the arête with your left and right hand in the obvious pockets. Make your way up the arête and exit to the right.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 2m
2 The Long Way To Did It

Start at the lowest point on the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the left. Traverse left and finish by completing Did It. Extremely pumpy!

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

V3Boulder 4m
3 * Exit Stage Left

Start at the lowest point on the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the left. Make your way up to the second tier with a dyno and top out on the third tier to be king of the world.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
4 * Oh No You Done Did It

A Sassy problem working the nose

Sit start at common spot under left side of the overhang.

Move up to the dominant ledge and then power up the rounded arete directly above you.

Once your hands hit the top, top out via the right side of the arete.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 29th Jul

V3Boulder 2m
5 * In Loving Memory Of Wilma

Start at the lowest point on the the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the right. Finish by dynoing to the reachy slopper at the top.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 31st Jul

V4Boulder 2m
6 * Afternoon Delight

Sit Start in the right section of the overhang with both hands on a ledge around head high when you enter.

After placing your feet on the rock in front use the assortment of holds in the roof to head out of cave, slightly to the right.

Using the sharp feature about 2m off the ground top out

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 29th Jul

V3Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 *** Sky Rockets

A super fun sustained roof lined with good holds

Sit start at the same common area at the left of the overhang. Pull on and follow the line of holds out to the right most part. At the solid letter box stay right to top out on the right most part of the arete

A good pump with a rewarding finish

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 31st Jul

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 31st Jul

V4Boulder 6m
8 ** Open Project (It's The Pleats)

Awesome roof moves finished with a demanding top out - enough so to deserve its own problem

Sit start same as Sky Rockets, follow the roof holds but at dominant letter box head straight up using the rounded arete

All face holds to the right and left of the letter box are out

A committing finish!

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 31st Jul

Boulder Project 6m

1.5. Rodd Park 20 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.149063, -33.865990

Description:

A series of short wall and overhang problems. The short wall has a nice grassy landing while the overhang, with slopers, has a nasty rock landing.

Approach:

The bouldering is located in Rodd Park of Rodd Point and can only be approached by one direction if driving. There are round abouts either side of Rodd Park to help return if you miss the turn off.

If driving in a southernly direction along Henley Marine Drive, Rodd Point, turn left into Rodd Park. If driving eastly along Henley Marine Drive, Rodd Point, drive past Rodd Park, perform a u-turn at the round about and enter as for south bound description.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

History:

Brendon Flanagan grew up playing in this park. Ranger Dave did not. But together they used their powers for good, not eveil and came up with some awesome problems. The developers did not wear their underwear on the outside of their pants while developing this area in October and November of 2012.

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.5.1. Ergometer Wall 11 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.148659, -33.866021

Description:

Call out to any rower you see on Iron Cove Bay and ask them what they think of the ergometer (ergo) and they'll tell you it's all about the same sequence repeated over and over again. All the problems on Ergoemeter Wall use the same sequence from start to finish. If you don't like heel hooks and mantling then this IS NOT the crag for you. Problems described from left to right facing the wall. High tide will cover the landing for all the overhang problems on Ergometer Wall.

Approach:

Walk into Rodd Park and head right to the first stone outcrop you can see. Ergometer Wall is the short face including the overhang.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

History:

When the developer was knee high to a grass hopper, he would ride his bike over to Rodd Park and play on the rocks to escape the evil clutches of his sister. Not once did he ever dream that one day he would be registering some amazing problems there on the even more amazing web site thecrag.com.

Crag developed in 2012 by Brendon Flanagan and Ranger Dave as part of the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spoon Blade

Matching your hands on the low ledge throw your left heel up and top out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
2 From Square to Feather

Same start as for SB but throw your right heel up and top out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
3 Stroke Side

Match hands up top, feet low, left heel up and top out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
4 Starboard Side

Same as for Stroke Side but use your right heel and top out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
5 Easy Oars!

Match hands on the raised lip, left foot up and top out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
6 Hands On!

Same start as for EO except throw your right heel up and top out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Ready Oar, Row!

Match your hands on the front left high ledge. Feet low, now top out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1 to V2Boulder 3m
8 Roll It!

Same start as for RAR, but exit right.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1 to V2Boulder 3m
9 Shoulders! Ready! Up!

Match hands on the front right low ledge. Start feet low then exit left.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V2Boulder 3m
10 One Foot Up And Out!

Same start as for SRU, starting with your feet low and exit right.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2012

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V2Boulder 3m
11 Follow Your Favorites

Everyone has a favorite move - be it a fist jam, layback or mono

For one man its all in the name

Brendon "The Heel" Flanagan loves nothing more than using three (or four) limbs to hang his weight!

Whether it is a over hang (understandable) or a Slab (I still don't know how he does it!) - The heel hook is a constant tool in his arsenal!

This challenge is dedicated to him

Sit start at the left most part of the Ergo wall. Move up and right till you've got the ledge and immediately throw a heel up.

Now without losing a heel off the ledge move as far as humanly possible.

Once you pop - mark the spot with a bit of chalk and challenge your mates to beat it!

Record currently stands at 6m

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V1Boulder 1m

1.5.2. Super 8 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.149434, -33.865959

Description:

A modest, pumpy collection of sit starts with a good range of grades.

Found on a tear drop shaped patch of land with 270deg of water front views, Super 8 is a fun little bouldering crag offering some modest problems.

With 7 sit starts and one sustained traverse, the grades range from V1 to V4 and pack a good array of under clings, heel hooks that top out with slopers and crimps

Approach:

Driving down Henley Marine Drive, turn into Rodd Park where there is a boat club, about 1 billion people running and some exposed rock. From the Car park walk into Rodd Park to the point furthest away from the road.

Doing so will inevitably send you crashing over the top of “Super 8”, which funnily enough is the chunk of Rock right next to the GIANT 8 Knots sign.

History:

Another crag brought to you by Ranger Dave in 2012. On the back of Brendon "The Heel" Flanagan discovering the Ergo Wall, Dave while a bouldering there did spy this pumpy cave like structure and was inspired to get his butt sandy!

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Super 8 Traverse

A solid pumpy traverse that tests your core strength

Sit start at "SSASS", follow the multi-leveled lip of the cave to the left using the crimps and lip edge.

stay low for an extra challenge.

Top out just before the fig tree starts

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V3Boulder 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Shin Splints and Shit sits

Sit start at the right hand side of the rock, where the first starts to show form.

Move from one lip to the other without going to far left (that bumps the grade up)

Watch your footing and look closely for shin skin!

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
3 Project 1

Sit start same as "YGYY" but avoiding the solid incut and all of its holds move up and to the right to the pocket. Keep heading right to a white lichen patch and topout using the crimps

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

Boulder Project 3m
4 * Wasp Guts, Yummy, Yummy

A fun Start with some power required for the first two moves

Sit in front of the first scooped out section close to the floor (showing orange rock). Under cling and reach wide with some laybacking, power up to the solid holds straight up.

some cool movements!

Topitee-top out straight up

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V2Boulder 3m
5 ** Buff Chicks in Spandex

Good climbing with all of the holds on offer

at the scooped out section left of WGYY pump up the sides of this mini cave above, hit the lip of the overhang and top out

Flex your pecks at the local rowing lasses for extra points!

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V2Boulder 3m
6 ** Smooth Water

A most satisfying starting move!

Sit start just left of "BCIS" with a heel hook and hands on the delicate ledge line.

Pull on and throw for the angled pinch on the cave lip left from you. Make for the lip with the right, match and topout straight up.

A super satisfying problem

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

V4Boulder 3m
7 Project 3

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

Boulder Project
8 ** Figged Beyond Belief

Solid pump with heel hooks and big slaps to good holds

Of all the ways to start, sit under the roof to the far left of the cave, right where the fig tree is sending her pain in the butt branches.

Reach up and grab the solid holds above. Pull urself up and throw your feet up and love the heel hook/toe jam.

Keeping connected to the rock move right while staying at the lip of the cave

Top out to the right of the highest point of the rock.

Pumpy!

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V4Boulder 4m
9 ** Fruit Fetish

Same start as FBB

The time move straight up and to the right, topping out to the left of the bulging top of the rock

Cool start with a burly finish

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V3Boulder 3m

1.6. Henley Marine Drive 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Numerous sandstone retaining walls can be found along Henley Marine Drive.

1.7. Mystery Bay 0 routes in Crag

Description:

This crag has a mixture of features. There are some large, tall boulders with big holds that can be accessed at low tide just west of the jetty. Bring your tarpaulin and gum boots if you dare venture to these inviting boulders! If the adventure of developing in the wet doesn't tickle your fancey then perhaps the rock on the shore line will be more to your liking.

Access Issues:

Park at the end of Thompson Street Drummoyne and cross Henley Marine Drive. Be careful when crossing Henley Marine Drive as there are numerous cars and cyclists to compete with. Reminds me of the days of Frogger. Be mindful of the joggers and mothers with prams when crossing the public thoroughfare.

Approach:

Park at the end of Thompson Street Drummoyne and cross Henley Marine Drive. Google Maps on theCrag.com indicates there's a TAB at this location. For all you punters out there this is not correct. Find your way down to the rock or the boulders at low tide and develop!

History:

Make sure you put some history in here to let the climbing community know who developed here and when.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V1 Harros Quick Finish Boulder 3m 1.1. Bridgewater Park
Horro's Down But Not Dirty Boulder 6m 1.1. Bridgewater Park
Progress Forward Boulder 4m 1.2. Industrial Revolution
* Did It Boulder 2m 1.4. Callan Point
* Exit Stage Left Boulder 3m 1.4. Callan Point
Easy Oars! Boulder 3m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
Follow Your Favorites Boulder 1m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
From Square to Feather Boulder 3m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
Hands On! Boulder 3m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
Spoon Blade Boulder 3m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
Starboard Side Boulder 3m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
Stroke Side Boulder 3m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
Shin Splints and Shit sits Boulder 3m 1.5.2. Super 8
V1 to V2 Ready Oar, Row! Boulder 3m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
Roll It! Boulder 3m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
V2 Harros Halfway Hammering Boulder 14m 1.1. Bridgewater Park
Gold Rush Boulder 3m 1.2. Industrial Revolution
** Pure Locomotion Boulder 3m 1.2. Industrial Revolution
One Foot Up And Out! Boulder 3m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
Shoulders! Ready! Up! Boulder 3m 1.5.1. Ergometer Wall
** Buff Chicks in Spandex Boulder 3m 1.5.2. Super 8
* Wasp Guts, Yummy, Yummy Boulder 3m 1.5.2. Super 8
V3 ** Industry over Ecology Boulder 3m 1.2. Industrial Revolution
** Molten Metal Boulder 3m 1.2. Industrial Revolution
* Afternoon Delight Boulder 3m 1.4. Callan Point
* Oh No You Done Did It Boulder 2m 1.4. Callan Point
The Long Way To Did It Boulder 4m 1.4. Callan Point
** Fruit Fetish Boulder 3m 1.5.2. Super 8
* Super 8 Traverse Boulder 6m 1.5.2. Super 8
V4 Harros Horrendous Horizontal Hammering Boulder 20m 1.1. Bridgewater Park
* In Loving Memory Of Wilma Boulder 2m 1.4. Callan Point
*** Sky Rockets Boulder 6m 1.4. Callan Point
** Figged Beyond Belief Boulder 4m 1.5.2. Super 8
** Smooth Water Boulder 3m 1.5.2. Super 8
? Project 2 Boulder 1.3. King George Park
Project 1 Boulder 1.3. King George Park
Project 3 Boulder 1.3. King George Park
Project 4 Boulder 1.3. King George Park
Project 5 Boulder 1.3. King George Park
** Open Project (It's The Pleats) Boulder Project 6m 1.4. Callan Point
? Project 1 Boulder Project 3m 1.5.2. Super 8
Project 3 Boulder Project 1.5.2. Super 8