Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Inner West 248 routes in Region

Summary:
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seasonality
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.122433, -33.897807

Description:

Located close to Sydney CBD, offering an assortment of lead climbing, top roping and a plethora of bouldering.

Sydney's Inner West has a surprising amount of climbing for being so close to the city. Earlwood gets by far the most attention (and so it should) but new crags with good potential are being discovered every month.

This location offers everything from well protected and varied short routes in nice bush surroundings, to pumpy low caves and solid highballs with nasty landings by the water.

Being so close to Sydney, these areas are well worth a look in especially with Iron Cove offering several decent crags to boulder at.

Respect to the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the Inner West has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com

1.1. Pyrmont 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.191432, -33.867407

Description:

A great location right by the shore lines of Sydney Harbour and only a 15 minute walk from the city center. Just like Kangaroo Point in Brisbane you'll find Pyrmont Wall and Pyrmont Spanish Lessons can be played on at night with the council lighting in place.

Approach:

There's a plethora of parking all along Pirrama Road in Pyrmont...however...it's all metered so make sure you pay to avoid the Council Rangers who prowl the streets searching for unsuspecting free loading parkers. The Star casino is located near by which results in the hoards of Council Rangers looking to raise some more revenue for Sydney City Council.

History:

A much neglected crag in the past due to other popular locations. Pyrmont and the surrounding suburbs are now seeing some much needed and long awaited development. Local action on its way direct to you! Chalk up and climb on!

1.1.1. Pyrmont Wall 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 151.193025, -33.864918

Unique Features And Strengths:

Hundreds of meters of sandstone wall, 20 mins walk from the city, car parking right next to the climbs, lit at night, wheelchair access (might be useful when leaving)

Description:

This cliff has been partially blasted out to make room for the road below. You can traverse most of the full length, and there are 10 to 15 meter climbs. The fence and steps above look like they will make good anchor points for a top rope. Unfortunately quite a bit of the rock is soft and sandy.

View in Google Maps Street View: https://maps.google.com/?ll=-33.86377,151.192346&spn=0.002165,0.010568&t=m&z=17&layer=c&cbll=-33.863766,151.192342&panoid=6lIyIosTuzYyJHhNCqcwIA&cbp=11,149.44,,0,-1.64

Approach:

Park right next to the climb, or catch the 443 bus over from the city, or take a 20 minute walk over from the city.

1.1.2. Pyrmont Spanish Lessons 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.192082, -33.864068

Description:

Hola boulderers! Whoever said Spanish lessons and bouldering can't be combined was wrong! An amazing patch of rock offering some fun but testing problems. Be it traversing, lowballing or a touch of highball, this place can offer you hours of entertainment with great views and some grassy landings.

Approach:

Park on Pirrama Road at Pyrmont Point Park in the car park facing the quarried cliff face. Cross at the pedestrian crossing, open your crash pad, chalk up and boulder on! Disfrutar!!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

Descent Notes:

All problems except for 11 and 14 MUST be down climbed to achieve the tick.

History:

One cool 2012 autumn morning Brendon Flanagan went in search of a quick and fun hands on rock time. With hot java in hand he went on an early morning search and climb mission. A piece of rock was discovered and in three blinks of an eye Pyrmont Spanish Lessons was born. Even Brendon knew it didn't hold a flame to Lindfield or The Baulkins but it was local and more importantly it was time on rock.

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.1.3. Pyrmont Spider Pig Boulder 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.188417, -33.869285

Description:

A small boulder offering some limited overhang problems inside a cave. Please be mindful of the neighbors to the left (facing) of the boulder as it can look straight into their small, yet private courtyard. The boulder is also surrounded by a landscaped garden so show all due respect to it. Keep the noise to a minimum so good relations are maintained between the residents and the climbing community. This boulder is only worth visiting if you're a strandard local who wants a fun overhanging work out. Pyrmont Spider Pig Boulder needs a little more traffic to eliminate the remaining choss. Once cleaned up a bit it'll offer some good clean fun.

Approach:

Drive to the end of Distillery Drive in Pyrmont. Turn left and park in the unit car park. No signs for 'Residents Only Parking'. Jump the barrier to the far left of the car park and make your way down the path and steps. Boulder is the obvious piece of rock to the right of the stairs. Or Alternatively, You can enter from the street at the front using the stairs to the left and walking back to the right.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

History:

This entire area use to be an industrial site with artifacts scattered around by the developers who built the multitude of high rise apartments. One day in November 2012 Brendon Flanagan was riding his bike over the ANZAC Bridge and saw this lttle crop of rock. It only took him 2 months to finally do something about it.

This crag is a product of the Great Bouldering Boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.1.4. Pyrmont Slab 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.192737, -33.869377

Description:

A solid piece of sandstone on the fringes of Pyrmont. Ensure you show all due respect when climbing here as it will look straight into the neighbouring apartments windows. Your send could end up with a visit from Police.

This crag is also located in a council garden so please show all due respect if climbing here to the local fauna.

Approach:

Turn into Mount Street from the Miller Street and travel 30m where the road stops at the cliff face.

View in Google Street View at: https://maps.google.com/?ll=-33.869576,151.192869&spn=0.001198,0.002642&t=m&z=19&layer=c&cbll=-33.869497,151.192835&panoid=M-r-bekOUbIGR2lmzjoPAA&cbp=12,349.73,,0,-10.87

According to "Sydney and Sea Cliffs", the climbs are below and to the left of the stairs.

History:

Described in "Sydney and Sea Cliffs", published 1991.

1.2. Glebe 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.185072, -33.878334

Description:

A suburb with many good qualities, not all of them climbing. The same as many of the surrounding CBD suburbs, the crags in Glebe are mostly all from old sandstone quarries used to the sandstone bricks used to build many of the houses you can see as you drive by.

If you're a strandard local with no one to drive you to an eastern suburbs crag for a climb then this area can help fix your craving for some rock action.

History:

All significant development in Glebe occurred during the Great Bouldering Boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.2.1. The Laneway Cutting 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Almost choss free rock hidden away from public view.

Portions of this crag will seep for at least a week after heavy rain as a result of run off from the above unit blocks.

Description:

A solid stretch of sandstone going for over 100 metres which can offer any locals a good workout with some traversing action.

The highest point of this urban cutting stands at 7 metres but remember that this laneway does get passing traffic so ensure you don't fall when a car or truck's passing by.

Approach:

The crag begins at the intersection of Bellevue Lane and Lyndhurst Street in Glebe.

Don't park in the Glennmore Meats car park as this is reserved for customers only and we don't want the climbing community getting in bad with such a popular and busy local business.

History:

This crag is open for any development.

Discovered by Brendon Flanagan during the Great Bouldering Boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.2.2. Thin Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.177731, -33.880080

Description:

A long wall about 20 meters wide with bad quality sandstone resulting in many of the holds breaking off. Don't let this deter you though, it's still good enough to climb on. Mixture of older carrot bolts and some newer ring bolts. In some of the pictures below, a green circle means "possible hand/foothold" and a red circle means "bolt" or "lower off".

The fixed protection at this crag was inspected by Brendon Flanagan 05/03/2014. Best to consider NOT climbing on these bolts. Several bolts recesses still highly visible and poor glue job.

Here is a link to a 3D Sketchup file of the wall, free download and improve. https://www.box.com/s/2qrnpzb1qijhl7vp0by2

Approach:

Park around the corner or catch the 433 bus from Central. The bus stop is on the same block. be prepared for some kids to come out from the PCYC and ask you what you're doing, is it hard and are you crazy!

1.2.3. Middle Section 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.178593, -33.880290

Description:

Moslty highball bouldering so make sure you can down climb these as it can get very scary.

All climbs are listed right to left facing the wall.

Approach:

Follow the trail to the left of Thin Wall paralel to Minouge Crescent.

Descent Notes:

To get down either down climb, bring rope and abseil of a tree or downclimb an easier problem next to it.

1.2.4. Park View 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Boulder and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 151.178995, -33.880423

Description:

Straight in front of the bus stop. About a 4-5m section of sandstone.

Descent Notes:

If you feel confident using them there are the bars from the railing above for top roping, I have only seen them from a far so don't know what type of condition they're in.

1.3. Iron Cove 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.154023, -33.863776

Description:

Iron Cove Bay offers 8 different locations for some bay side bouldering. Some locations are dependent on low tide for access. Please take 10 seconds to clean holds after working problems. Callin Point AKA The Margin Crag had a large build up of chalk (nice to see so much traffic) making the holds slippery.

Approach:

All crags have easy access. Park your car and incorporate a walk of a few minutes and there you are. Good crags for short, easy work outs when you can't get to Diamond Bay, Sutherland or other impressive crags. Park your car, bike or pushy and walk on it. All crags are by the water and the famous Bay Run.

History:

Apparently some problems were developed years ago but nothing was ever registered. Ranger Dave and Brendon Allan Flanagan changed all that.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.3.1. Bridgewater Park 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.166438, -33.859932

Description:

An old bay side quarry which now offers some amazing traverses on the face of Balmain Shores. Bring a brush as it can get a little sandy with wash off from the top. Get ready for a solid pumpy workout!

Approach:

Park at the end of Margaret Street Rozelle and walk down the stairs to the park. Routes described from left to right facing the crag.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

History:

A disused quarry opposite Birkenhead Point Shopping Centre, now a convenient suburban crag. Developed by Brendon Flanagan and Ranger Dave in 2012.

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.3.2. Industrial Revolution 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.163071, -33.860968

Description:

>CRAG CARE UPDATE: "9th of April, 2014' - This boulder has been cleaned and chalked up with some problems regraded and giving new descriptions"

A modest clump of rock supporting some good variety of grades and styles. Climbs are characterised by a mid climb mantle followed by a short slab. Pumpy sit starts, little crimps and rounded slappers makes this a fun little location!

Approach:

Located just north east of King George Park in Rozelle.

From the City of Sydney head west over the ANZAC Bridge and turn right on to Victoria Rd, towards Rozelle.

The Boulders are found just underneath the Iron Cove Bridge, so before you drive over it and get thoroughly lost, turn Left down Tolelle or Clubb and crash your car at the park.

Its only a short walk along the river towards Iron Cove Bridge.

Located just north east of King George Park in Rozelle.

From the City of Sydney head west over the ANZAC Bridge and turn right on to Victoria Rd, towards Rozelle.

The Boulders are found just underneath the Iron Cove Bridge, so before you drive over it and get thoroughly lost, turn Left down Tolelle or Clubb and crash your car at the park.

Its only a short walk along the river towards Iron Cove Bridge.

History:

Developed by Ranger Dave when scouring Iron Cove for new boulders

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

1.3.3. King George Park 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.161311, -33.862912

Description:

A couple of boulders are located near the walking track on the north western side of the oval. Further along the shore line are a number of sandy boulders with bad landings.

1.3.4. Callan Point 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.159676, -33.862402

Description:

A small but worthwhile outcrop located at the tip of Callan Point. The grassy landing makes the small overhang quite pleasant. Climbs are described from left to right facing the boulder. The crag gets sun from late morning til sunset and is protected from the wind on the bay. Tape your fingers up before attacking the problems as the rock's rough and can take chunks out of your fingers if you're not careful! Whatever you do don't let this deter you from this crag, the problems are well worth the effort of taping up!

Approach:

The crag is best approached from Waterfront Drive.

History:

A young climbing princess from the Czech Republic going by the name of Radka was found by the developer at the crag one sunny summer afternoon. With chalk on her hands, a smile on her face and her glass climbing shoes on, young Radka was enjoying what the crag had on offer. The pumped Czech princess mentioned that the crag was like a wonderful and mystical margin. The developer didn't understand what she meant, and only partially because of her accent. As the Czech princess chalked up and bouldered on she continued her fairy tale by saying there was a well defined boarder, in her magical eyes, between the water and the rock. After standing there scratching his head in wonder and planting some beans he just bought from a man on the side of the road, the developer decided that an AKA had been born for Callan Point. And just like all good Czech fairy tales, everybody chalked up, climbed on and lived happily ever after. The End.

Crag developed by Brendon Flanagan in 2012 as a lead up to the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.3.5. Rodd Park 20 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.149063, -33.865990

Description:

A series of short wall and overhang problems. The short wall has a nice grassy landing while the overhang, with slopers, has a nasty rock landing.

Approach:

The bouldering is located in Rodd Park of Rodd Point and can only be approached by one direction if driving. There are round abouts either side of Rodd Park to help return if you miss the turn off.

If driving in a southernly direction along Henley Marine Drive, Rodd Point, turn left into Rodd Park. If driving eastly along Henley Marine Drive, Rodd Point, drive past Rodd Park, perform a u-turn at the round about and enter as for south bound description.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

History:

Brendon Flanagan grew up playing in this park. Ranger Dave did not. But together they used their powers for good, not eveil and came up with some awesome problems. The developers did not wear their underwear on the outside of their pants while developing this area in October and November of 2012.

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.3.6. Henley Marine Drive 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Numerous sandstone retaining walls can be found along Henley Marine Drive.

1.3.7. Mystery Bay 0 routes in Crag

Description:

This crag has a mixture of features. There are some large, tall boulders with big holds that can be accessed at low tide just west of the jetty. Bring your tarpaulin and gum boots if you dare venture to these inviting boulders! If the adventure of developing in the wet doesn't tickle your fancey then perhaps the rock on the shore line will be more to your liking.

Access Issues:

Park at the end of Thompson Street Drummoyne and cross Henley Marine Drive. Be careful when crossing Henley Marine Drive as there are numerous cars and cyclists to compete with. Reminds me of the days of Frogger. Be mindful of the joggers and mothers with prams when crossing the public thoroughfare.

Approach:

Park at the end of Thompson Street Drummoyne and cross Henley Marine Drive. Google Maps on theCrag.com indicates there's a TAB at this location. For all you punters out there this is not correct. Find your way down to the rock or the boulders at low tide and develop!

History:

Make sure you put some history in here to let the climbing community know who developed here and when.

1.4. Balmain 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.183877, -33.856220

Description:

An area of Sydney offering a variety of crags consisting of quarry cutting after quarry cutting after quarry cutting, with a little harbour side sandstone to boulder on just to break it up.

Most sandstone here is of acceptable quality but alas the problems or climbs are sadly offering less than that. Not bad iof you're in the area with some time to kill after a coffee, beer or vino at one of the many fine surrounding establishments.

1.4.1. King Neptune Park 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.174669, -33.853363

Description:

King Neptune Park sits right on the water next to the Dawn Fraser swimming pool with Cockatoo Island directly opposite the crag. There are 12 routes listed here with only 9 lines of bolts identified, the last 5 being lost forever behind the well situated fig tree. All protection is extremely poor and should not be trusted.

Approach:

Park towards the end of Fitzroy Avenue and then make your way down to the waterline following the road leading down hill. Cross the chain fence and there you are.

History:

No doubt once a brilliant local lead climbing crag, now a lost world being taken over by nature with all pro rusted out.

1.4.2. Balmain East 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.196168, -33.859013

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great views of the Harbour Bridge

Description:

This crag is located in the illoura reserve in Balmain. It offers some great bouldering on good quality sandstone with great views of the Harbour Bridge.

Access Issues:

This is a pubic park, so no issues with climbing here.

Approach:

Drive, walk or cycle to the end of Darling Street, turn right into Weston street then into Edward street. The walls are below you. Alternatively, catch a ferry or a bus.

1.4.3. White Horse Point 0 routes in Crag

Description:

This point offers three small beachs that can be accessed at low tide (or through rapping in). Each of these offer some quality possibilities with evidence of some chipped rock (probably from vandals engraving their names). It's a shame that most of the rock is just too high for bouldering but not quite high enough for leading. There is however some good overhangs lip traverses, and very high highballs. Most of the beaches have a sandy landing too. White Horse Point is often known as 'Sydney's most legit crag' (Joke).

Access Issues:

Not very easy to access during high tide

Approach:

Walk, ride or drive down the aptly named White street to the rowing club. From here walk down onto the sand and start to work your way around the cliff.

1.5. Drummoyne 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.146619, -33.845756

Description:

Just like all Sydney harbour side suburbs Drummoyne offers sandstone on its foreshores.

This area no doubt has more on offer so take some time to have a little look see and develope some more.

History:

The first recorded crag was developed by Ranger Dave during the Great Bouldering Boom!

1.5.1. Delete me 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.146601, -33.845758

1.6. Earlwood 44 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.132008, -33.930695

Description:

A popular and pleasant little south facing crag with the look and feel of English Gritstone. Excellent rock quality, easy top-rope setups and well bolted. In addition to the following climbs, there is also bouldering (Bardwell traverse) located at the left end of the crag. There are additional minor bouldering areas: (a) a small area approximately 100 m further left of the crag, right next to the track, (b) A few problems can be found scattered in bushland on the West side of Finlay's Ave near the entrance to Turella park (about 10 min walk right of the main crag when facing the trainline).

A 3D model of the main area is available to download here. https://www.box.com/s/6cn9lyfhkmrctz176zv2 (Please note Sketch up V8 is needed to view it)

Approach:

Located above Wolli Creek in Earlwood. Catch a train to Bardwell Park station or drive to Fauna St or Sutton Ave, Earlwood. Walk into Girrahween Park, and where the sealed paths converge, take the obvious bush track (east). After 10 minutes of scenic bush walking the track passes directly underneath the crag. Alternative access is from the east end of this same track located downhill from the end of Finlays Avenue, Earlwood (the bush track is marked by a small post labeled TVT). Climbs described left to right (west to east), facing the cliff. Watch out for a small amount of broken glass on the path near the crag.

1.7. Bexley North 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.116761, -33.945130

1.8. Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym St Peters 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.174643, -33.910289

Description:

This is a basic gym listing. It is locked and cannot be edited.

If you climb at Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym St Peters you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

If you are from Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym St Peters and would like to unlock this page to make a more tailored and detailed listing please contact us (http://www.thecrag.com/article/ContactUs)

Approach:

4C/1-7 Unwins Bridge Rd St Peters

1.8.1. Climbing routes 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.174653, -33.910286

1.8.2. Bouldering problems 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.9. The Ledge Climbing Centre, University of Sydney. 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.186207, -33.887674

Unique Features And Strengths:

Excellent, techniqal route settings making it well worth the visit.

Description:

The University of Sydneys indoor climbing gym offers short but excellent routes and problems to work on.

Approach:

The Arena Sports Centre A30 Western Ave University of Sydney NSW T: 9351 8115

Metered parking on campus grounds.

History:

1.9.1. Climbing routes 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.186207, -33.887674

1.9.2. Bouldering problems 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.10. Undercliffe 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

A small bouldering wall useful to know about if you live nearby.

Description:

A small bouldering area in the bush, with sharp, pocketed sandstone providing a few problems and a short traverse.

Access Issues:

The crag is in bush parkland, close to part of the Two Valleys Track (TVT) in Canterbury council area.

Approach:

From the end of Unwin Street, Undercliffe (which is walking distance from Tempe train station), continue walking along the track past some outcrops on your right for about 50 m. Step around the fence (the normal walking track), and after about 25 m further on, past the huge pipes, turn up hill for about 20 m to find the crag tucked away in some bushes.