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Description

A crag of its time (90s)it is full of rusty carrots, mixed gear, choss and no lower offs. Spread out over a long broken cliff there are spectacular views over the Hawkesbury that almost make you forget the hum of the freeway. There are some good climbs hidden away. Online guides for this area are available through Sydney surf and sandstone (Sydney Rockies). The following descriptions are to update that information, as the area is slowly "modernised" by local climbers.

Useful Info: From the parking area walk towards the river stepping over a barbed wire fence (15 seconds). For the downriver end turn left and walk for 2 minutes with the fence to your left. The path is very narrow with a steep drop off in sections. The easiest way to the base is to abseil 15m from the tree above 'Bad Luck Silverback', or from 2 ring bolts above 'Natie Head' or from 2 carrot bolts above High Goose Stepping action. This delivers you to one of the highest quality areas and the focus of rebolting at the moment. Otherwise keep walking for another 2 mins to the end of the wall and descend down the F3 runoff gutter.

© (vlw)

Approach

Heading north on the F3 you cross Jolls bridge and a few hundred metres beyond this there is an emergency phone area where you can reverse safely between two rails into a grassy area where there is room for 5 cars. Alternatively park on the old Pacific 'Highway' as described in the SSS guide and walk under the bridge. Follow the guard rail untill the stone cutting and this is the southern end of the crag.

© (vlw)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 * Absolute honey Sport 13m, 4

This is the far southern end of the crag. Initialled AH. Up left of cave and flake past 4 RBs to new lower offs

2
22 Rapunzel Let Down Your hair Unknown 10m, 4

Direct to first bolt shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared anchors with 'Sniffing Dogs'

3
20 Sniffing Dogs Sport 15m

Starts at right side of large cave pass 5 RBs, veering right at end to shared anchors with Rapunzel

4
23 * Wilde Thing Unknown 15m
5
16 King Kong Trad 15m

Start at white square at left side of cave. Trend up and left passing 2 trees and for full value finish at anchorsfor HGSA

6
21 * Fully Loaded Man Trad 20m

Start 2m right of HGSA at small crack. Up past 3 BRs to RB, step slightly left then past 2nd RB to double bolt belay (weasel exit on right side of RB about 19)

FA: Dale Tweedie, Daniel Webster, 2009

7

Start next to block on lower level under orange wall. Up to top of block, step right (bolt and cams) and over bulge. Thin moves and a goose step (bolt) surmount the orange face before a juggy overhanging finish (FH). Two bolts on block at top for anchor. Needs bolt plates and cams.

8
17 Natie Head Sport 8m

At slightly higher level at right side of bowl. A cam and 2 carrots and a large angophora tree to DRBB

9
19 * Bad Luck Silverback Mixed 12m, 1

Initialled BLSB. Up smooth orange rock past carrot to traverse right then up flake. Mostly trad. Traverse left at top to tree. Best led with double ropes or long slings. Although graded 19 it can seem quite difficult if this is your limit

10
24 ** Channel Bill Cuckoo Sport 12m, 5

Start at white square 2m L of BLSB. CLip first RB from ledge then up, or return to ground for more value. Hard moves from pocket to flake then push on to ledge, anchors on wall above

FA: P Riviere, 2000

11

The trad corner, often dirty, now has lower offs

12
24 ** French and Blonde Sport 15m

Has been fully rebolted, take care getting to second bolt. Shares anchors with BBB to left.

13
23 * Big Black Box Sport 15m, 5

Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right

14
22 * The Climb that was Sport 18m

The retrobolted and straight up version of the block that was. Veer right at end to loweroffs

15
19 * The Block That Was Mixed 15m, 2

Start left of block (initialled) and mantle moves to ledge and finger crack. Hand traverse left under roof then tricky moves to second roof and back onto arete into flared hand crack. Beware of horn at top. Belay from tree. 2 rusty carrots at present. Double ropes to lead best.

16
23 ** Sand Man Sport 25m

Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing bolts, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBW to same finish.

FA: J Wilde, D Wilde

17
23 ** Succulent Young Men Sport 18m

Start as for 'Texas', up 3 bolts, then traverse hard right above cave for some distance before going up. All ring bolts now

18
23 to 24 Go North by Northwest Sport Project 7

Take the direct line of 'Go North Young Thang' and avoid the left ledge above the slab by clipping the lower traverse bolt before heading up on the thin pockets and crimps. Looks like it will be a great line, but a bit contrived.

19
21 * Go North Young Thang Sport 20m, 8

As for 'Texas', up 3 bolts to ledge, then traverse right 2 metres, clip RB then very cruxy move, up through roof and step right to anchors. All RBs. If you are in trouble at the crux a bolt plate on an old carrot and a spare draw will let you aid

20
19 Texas Unknown 20m

Up corner on new RBs. Carrots and cams for the rest of the route straight up corner through chossy roof. Despite stars in the original guide this route is pretty average.

21
16 I'll ask her Mixed 20m, 2

Start at shallow corner just left of Texas. Up to under roof then head left onto ledge and climb short corner to finish

22
18 I Wanna Be The Table Unknown 12m

Start 2m L of IAH. Up past big cam to BR. Continue up slab. WIll be quite nice if retrobolted.

23
17 Humping the Table Unknown 12m, 2

Start just to R of undercut section then up trending left past 2BR. Up corner then up arete to ledge. Needs retrobolt and anchors.

24
21 Moe Unknown 6m
25
21 * Curly Unknown 8m
26
25 ** Larry Unknown 7m
27
20 * Oral Stretch Marks Unknown 15m
28
20 * Two Tribes Unknown 15m
29
21 ** Thin Heat Unknown 18m
30
31
22 * Frogs Outa Water Unknown 10m
32
16 * River Rat Unknown 12m
33
21 Oysterland Unknown 15m

Starts off ledge. Fully retrobolted. From tree head up 1m right of arete on flakes. Anchors are on top and require long slings, easy to collect on walk out. 30m to ground.

FA: P Riviere

34

Starts in open corner above nicely placed sandstone paving,onto tricky slab, past ledges to large ledge and tree belay or continue up oysterland. Graded 17 in older guides and it may be with good arm span.

35
22 Eat more Oysters Unknown 25m
36
21 The Big Lick Unknown 25m
37
22 Under My Tongue Unknown 10m
38
25 ** Pretzel Logic Unknown 10m
39
25 ** Wet When Slippery Unknown 10m
40
23 *** Monkey In The Soul Unknown 15m
41
27 *** Heart of Stone Sport 15m, 8

a good one in the wet. climbs into corner that is below a roof traversing right, rings all the way to a lower off. priviere 1992

42
21 ** Vulgar Direct Sport 32m, 12

Despite what the old guides say this is the LEFT route straight up the ring bolts through several roofs. Fully rebolted with DRB loweroffs

FA: M Law

43
19 Honey Im Late Trad 40m

Start 2m RIGHT of ringbolts (VD) at short crack and go left into cave to join VD for a few bolts before heading back right to belay on pedestal ( finger and hand size cams needed). Pitch 2 is a traverse way right past 2 RBs anddthen up RBs and thread to tree, and on to top for pitch 3. It is 30 m to ground

44
21 Honey Im Direct Trad 35m

Start as for HIL (faded initials near short crack into cave). After pedestal belay traverse 2m right (ie not as far as HIL) and then up handing corner (crux). More gear needed then bolts to DRB anchor. 27m to ground

45
22 ** B Jam Unknown 40m, 13

Initialled BJ. Fully rebolted and do as one pitch. Starts 2m left of VD and 4m left of HIL. Run out sections are easy. Up through low roof then trend left through second overhang passing belay bolts. Up flake, and onto 3rd roof. beware of snakes in pockets. Rappel twice to ground if single rope. Anchors are a back behind block.

46
19 ** Wheelie Big Fish Unknown 30m
47
19 Whairy Fin Fish Unknown 9m
48
19 * No Boots and Panties Sport 35m

start up bjam for all sport variant. same grade

49
20 *** Woodface Unknown 40m
50
20 * Woodface Direct Sport 40m

All RBs except for last bolt which is old and badly placed and for some reason left behind. Gain ledge through vegetated mank to start climb. Straight up arete then flake then arete on RBs to cave. Chain at back or continue past final 3 bolts (pitch 2) to top out. At present a rain soaked case of porn videos has been dumped at the start of the route.

51
25 *** Hang Ten Sport 35m, 16

steep sandstone wall ringbolted to a big ledge and 2nd pitch it thru a roof that traverses right. Crux's are good fun!!

52
21 Hang Five Sport 15m, 5

Grovel up to the starting ledge then climb Hag Ten for 3 bolts before traversing left onto ledge. Move along ledge to DBB. This leads to the start of Paul-Powell

FFA: P Riviere

53
21 * Paul-Powell Unknown 15m

From the DBB on ledge head up and right to crack then back left into fused corner, then right to letterbox and finish on large ledge (abseil off). 70m rope needed to reach ground. Pauls forgotten what he called it, some old carrots on it but was never climbed

FA: P Rfiviere, 2012

54
22 The Landscaper Sport 34m

P1-from ground ascend through gap in ferns then with trepidation through chossy rock to ledge as for Hang Five. Pitch 2- Up fused corner to left side of arete. Awaiting Pauls name for route.

FA: P Riviere

55
21 Tum Fun Unknown 30m
56
26 * Son of a Gun Sport 20m, 12

rock at bottom looks like crap but the higher you go the better it gets. follow the rings up trending left then back right through a couple of good overhanging sections priviere 1994

57
24 ** Leathal Weapon Sport 20m

Start as for SOG but go right and do tricky mantle onto ledge , up and bouldery moves to last bolt. Anchors are to left and difficult to clean route-get someone to second maybe.

58
16 The Damp Wagon Unknown 12m
59
17 * Pigmy Sex Low Down Unknown 10m
60
20 * Squeezin' Out Sparks Unknown 13m
61
17 Pig In a Wig Unknown 13m
63
24 ** Ringtail Unknown 18m
64
19 *** 666 The Beast Unknown 15m
66
19 Corrosion Castle Unknown 30m
67
25 * Black Diamond Unknown 10m
68
21 Biceps Femoris Unknown 6m
69
21 Biceps Brachii Unknown 8m
70
14 O Unknown 25m
71
18 Trotsky's Nipples Unknown 12m
72
11 Triangle Unknown 10m
73
22 * Fellin Kinda Sporty Unknown 15m
74
18 Mega Luv Jugs Unknown 15m
75
20 * Slippery Air Unknown 10m
76
17 Marxist Breakfast Unknown 10m
77
21 * One Sick Puppy Sport 12m
78
24 Read My Lips Unknown 10m
79
25 * Shining Path Unknown 15m
80
25 *** Golden Shower Unknown 15m
81
21 * Stairway to Heaven Unknown 20m
82
24 ** Rivers Edge Unknown 15m
83
22 ** Finger Candy Unknown 15m
84
21 Short Black Unknown 10m
85
13 Square Unknown 15m
86
19 Huge Carpet Sale Unknown 15m
87
19 * Struggle Rug Unknown 13m
88
19 Not a Pretty Face Unknown 10m
89
91
22 *** Crack 'n' Up Unknown 30m
92
19 * Teddy Unknown 30m
93
19 I'd Rather Be Fishing Unknown 30m
94
17 Fish Head Soup Unknown 25m
95
22 * Smells of Excess Unknown 25m
96
22 * Absolutely Fab Unknown 25m
97
19 * Hooked On a Rock Unknown 20m
98
21 ** Strung Up Unknown 20m
99
22 Chips and Chicken Salt Unknown 15m
100
20 * Fffffit Unknown 21m
101
21 * Mr Whip Me Unknown 23m
102
17 * Phvvvit Unknown 23m
103
20 *** La La Land Unknown 23m
104
22 * Up the End Unknown 10m
105
22 Funk Soul Mother Unknown 15m, 7

At right end of wall, veering left after second bolt and joining shared anchors of SKB

FA: V Wills, D Gray, 2012

106
22 ** Sun King Baby Sport 15m, 7

Start at initialled SKB. Veer right and then back left after second bolt. Recently rebolted, all rings with anchors

107
25 * Sister Moon Unknown 15m
108
18 Piggy Grunter Unknown 12m
109
22 Heaven and Hell Unknown 15m
110
25 The Seventh Wave Unknown 15m
111
17 Benny Hills Buttocks Unknown 15m
112
25 The Link Experience Unknown 15m
113
20 Burning Sensation Unknown 11m
114
19 Hey, Wheres the Cream? Unknown 11m
115
17 Short Arrs Unknown 6m
116
27 Scarface Unknown 10m
117
21 Projectile Fear Unknown 6m
118
16 Full Body Fluff Unknown 12m
119
21 ** D9 Lust Unknown 20m
120
19 *** Hot Black Light Unknown 22m
121
20 * Horny Bugger Unknown 22m
122
21 * Cool Street Unknown 20m
123
19 Uncle Clouse Unknown 17m
124
15 Bondi Unknown 17m
125
126
20 * Holding down Two Lives Unknown 23m
127
15 Nobody Home Unknown 11m
128
15 Timbre Unknown 11m
129
20 * Gate Keeper Unknown 10m
130
22 * Thin Skinned Unknown 10m
131
17 Glass Snout Unknown 10m
132
22 ** Rock 'n' Robyn Unknown 20m
133
26 ** Dreamtime Unknown 15m
134
24 Pass the Ladder Unknown 24m
135
24 ** Three's a Crowd Unknown 50m
136
25 *** Power and Glory Unknown 35m
137
23 The Sandman Unknown

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