Joll's Bridge Rock climbing150 routes in crag
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Once "a crag of its time (90s)it is full of rusty carrots, mixed gear, choss and no lower offs" - until recently, (2010 onwards) when a big retro-bolting effort commenced. Spread out over a long broken cliff there are spectacular views over the Hawkesbury that almost make you forget the hum of the freeway. There are some good climbs hidden away. Online guides for this area are available through Sydney surf and sandstone (Sydney Rockies). The following descriptions are to update that information, as the area is slowly "modernised" by local climbers.
Useful Info: From the parking area walk towards the river stepping over a barbed wire fence (15 seconds). For the downriver end turn left and walk for 2 minutes with the fence to your left. The path is very narrow with a steep drop off in sections. The easiest way to the base is to continue winding your way southwards until you come to the reo-steel steps taking you down a slot. Now walk back northwards about 40 metres to where the climbs start. Absolute Honey is the first route. This is the southernmost climb on the cliff. Routes are described R to L.© (vlw)
Heading north on the F3 you cross Jolls bridge and a few hundred metres beyond this there is an emergency bay where you can reverse safely between two guard rails into a grassy area where there is room for 5 cars. Alternatively park on the old Pacific 'Highway' as described in the SSS guide and walk under the bridge. Follow the guard rail untill the stone cutting and this is the southern end of the crag.© (vlw)
Where to stay
Initially discovered in 1990 by Wayne Anderson, he let the secret out to Paul Riviere. At the same time Andrew Powell and Phil Stallard (Wondabyne climbers Assoc) were scoping out the place. 10 years of development ensued through the 90's with many contributors putting up lines including Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey, John Wilde et al. The crag was largely forgotten in the first few years of the 21st cent, but has become once again since many routes have been retro-bolted with rings making it a good moderate sports crag.© (vlw)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Initialled BLSB. Up smooth orange rock past carrot to traverse right then up flake. Mostly trad. Traverse left at top to tree. Best led with double ropes or long slings. Although graded 19 it can seem quite difficult if this is your limit
FA: andrew powell & Tim Maroney, 1993
Start at white square 2m L of BLSB. CLip first RB from ledge then up, or return to ground for more value. Hard moves from pocket to flake then push on to ledge, anchors on wall above. Retro-ring bolted 2011.
FA: P Riviere, 1993
The trad corner, often dirty, now has lower offs
Starts 1 L of the corner. Has been fully rebolted, take care getting to second bolt. Shares anchors with BBB to left.
FA: ross linsley & paul riviere, 1993
Just L of F&B is a stunning black wall. Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right
FA: andrew powell & Phil Stallard, 1993
The route 4m L of BBB. Great positions up the inviting crack. Starts from down on the lower level, left of the boulder. Up the easy initial lower section, the onto the wall heading L to the crack. Goods moves and a couple of classic jams along the way. Veer right at end to loweroffs. Retro ring bolted 2012.
FA: andrew powell & tim maroney
Set by andrew powell & tim maroney, 1993
Start left of block (initialled) and mantle moves to ledge and finger crack. Hand traverse left under roof then tricky moves to second roof and back onto arete into flared hand crack. Beware of horn at top. Belay from tree. 2 rusty carrots at present. Double ropes to lead best.
Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing bolts, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBW to same finish Originally down with cams now fully ring bolted.
FA: J Wilde & D Wilde, 1994