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Description

Once "a crag of its time (90s) it is full of rusty carrots, mixed gear, choss and no lower offs" - until recently, (2010 onwards) when a big retro-bolting effort commenced. Spread out over a long broken cliff there are spectacular views over the Hawkesbury that almost make you forget the hum of the freeway. There are some good climbs hidden away. Online guides for this area are available through Sydney Rockies. The following descriptions are to update that information, as the area is slowly "modernised" by local climbers.

© (vlw)

Approach

Heading north on the F3 you cross Jolls bridge and a few hundred metres beyond this there is an emergency bay where you can reverse safely between two guard rails into a grassy area where there is room for 5 cars (As of April 2015 the parking area is in process of expansion).

From the parking area walk towards the river stepping over a barbed wire fence (15 seconds). For the downriver end turn left and walk for 2 minutes with the fence to your left. The path is very narrow with a steep drop off in sections. After walking past an extremely narrow section, a descent gully will appear on your right (if there are fallen logs on the path you have gone too far).The easiest way to the base is to continue winding your way down and southwards (left) until you come to the reo-steel steps taking you down a slot. Now walk back northwards about 40 metres to where the climbs start. Absolute Honey is the first route. This is the southernmost climb on the cliff. Routes are described R to L.

Alternatively park on the old Pacific 'Highway' as described in the SSS guide and walk under the bridge. Follow the guard rail untill the stone cutting and this is the southern end of the crag.

© (vlw)

Where to stay

No need to book into a motel or camp. Jolls is only a 40min drive north of Sydney

© (vlw)

Ethic

There are a couple of mixed routes but the majority have been retrobolted to bring the crag into the 21st century. If it is still mixed gear, leave it like that!

© (vlw)

History

Initially discovered in 1990 by Wayne Anderson, he let the secret out to Paul Riviere. At the same time Andrew Powell and Phil Stallard (Wondabyne climbers Assoc) were scoping out the place. 10 years of development ensued through the 90's with many contributors putting up lines including Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey, John Wilde et al. The crag was largely forgotten in the first few years of the 21st cent, but has become once again since many routes have been retro-bolted with rings making it a good moderate sports crag.

© (vlw)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
17
240
15m
Oysterland Sector
5
5
21m
7
41
32m
1
Woodface Sector
13
39
23m
12
33
16m
13
38
12m
5
5
14m
5
5
20m
11
15
13m
The Hollows Sector
5
0
10m
5
2
29m

Open trips

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