Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

Once "a crag of its time (90s)it is full of rusty carrots, mixed gear, choss and no lower offs" - until recently, (2010 onwards) when a big retro-bolting effort commenced. Spread out over a long broken cliff there are spectacular views over the Hawkesbury that almost make you forget the hum of the freeway. There are some good climbs hidden away. Online guides for this area are available through Sydney surf and sandstone (Sydney Rockies). The following descriptions are to update that information, as the area is slowly "modernised" by local climbers.

Useful Info: From the parking area walk towards the river stepping over a barbed wire fence (15 seconds). For the downriver end turn left and walk for 2 minutes with the fence to your left. The path is very narrow with a steep drop off in sections. The easiest way to the base is to continue winding your way southwards until you come to the reo-steel steps taking you down a slot. Now walk back northwards about 40 metres to where the climbs start. Absolute Honey is the first route. This is the southernmost climb on the cliff. Routes are described R to L.

© (vlw)

Approach

Heading north on the F3 you cross Jolls bridge and a few hundred metres beyond this there is an emergency bay where you can reverse safely between two guard rails into a grassy area where there is room for 5 cars. Alternatively park on the old Pacific 'Highway' as described in the SSS guide and walk under the bridge. Follow the guard rail untill the stone cutting and this is the southern end of the crag.

© (vlw)

Where to stay

No need to book into a motel or camp. Jolls is only a 40min drive north of Sydney

© (vlw)

Ethic

There are a couple of mixed routes but the majority have been retrobolted to bring the crag into the 21st century. If it is still mixed gear, leave it like that!

© (vlw)

History

Initially discovered in 1990 by Wayne Anderson, he let the secret out to Paul Riviere. At the same time Andrew Powell and Phil Stallard (Wondabyne climbers Assoc) were scoping out the place. 10 years of development ensued through the 90's with many contributors putting up lines including Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey, John Wilde et al. The crag was largely forgotten in the first few years of the 21st cent, but has become once again since many routes have been retro-bolted with rings making it a good moderate sports crag.

© (vlw)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 * Absolute honey Sport 13m, 4

This is the far southern end of the crag. Initialled AH. Up left of cave and flake past 4 RBs to new lower offs. Rebolted by Vanessa Wills 2010

FA: andrew powell & linda leman, 1993

2
22 * Rapunzel Let Down Your hair Unknown 10m, 4

Direct to first bolt shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared anchors with 'Sniffing Dogs'

FA: ross linsley & paul riviere, 1993

3
20 Sniffing Dogs Sport 15m

Starts at right side of large cave pass 5 RBs, veering right at end to shared anchors with Rapunzel

FA: ross linsley, andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

4
23 * Wilde Thing Unknown 15m

Mixed gear with old hexag you thruonal bolts and a couple of cams #0.5 - 1 to get you to the top.

FA: John Wilde, 1993

5
16 King Kong Trad 15m

Pump up those beginners. Starts 2mts L of Wilde Thing. Reach your way up through the blocks round top and up passing tree to top.

FA: Nat Nichols & Sussie Early, 1993

6
21 * Fully Loaded Man Trad 20m

Start 2m right of HGSA at small crack. Up past 3 BRs to RB, step slightly left then past 2nd RB to double bolt belay (weasel exit on right side of RB about 19)

FA: Dale Tweedie & Daniel Webster, 2009

7

Mixed gear - hex bolts and a couple of cams. Has not been retro-bolted. Yet another gem that does not let up till you haul through the final bulge. Start 3m L of King Kong. Boulder up past friend to bolt runner, grunt over bulge up to orange wall. Finger your way through this to overhang and friend #2 placement. Thin moves and a goose step (bolt) surmount the orange face before a juggy overhanging finish (FH). Two bolts on block at top for anchor. Needs bolt plates and cams.

FA: Phill Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1993

8
17 Natie Head Sport 8m

At slightly higher level at right side of bowl. A cam and 2 carrots and a large angophora tree to DRBB

FA: nat nichols & sussie Early, 1993

9
19 * Bad Luck Silverback Mixed 12m, 1

Initialled BLSB. Up smooth orange rock past carrot to traverse right then up flake. Mostly trad. Traverse left at top to tree. Best led with double ropes or long slings. Although graded 19 it can seem quite difficult if this is your limit

FA: andrew powell & Tim Maroney, 1993

10
25 ** Channel Bill Cuckoo Sport 12m, 5

Start at white square 2m L of BLSB. CLip first RB from ledge then up, or return to ground for more value. Hard moves from pocket to flake then push on to ledge, anchors on wall above. Retro-ring bolted 2011.

FA: P Riviere, 1993

11

The trad corner, often dirty, now has lower offs

12
24 ** French and Blonde Sport 15m

Starts 1 L of the corner. Has been fully rebolted, take care getting to second bolt. Shares anchors with BBB to left.

FA: ross linsley & paul riviere, 1993

13
23 * Big Black Box Sport 15m, 5

Just L of F&B is a stunning black wall. Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right

FA: andrew powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

14
21 * The Climb that was Sport 18m

The route 4m L of BBB. Great positions up the inviting crack. Starts from down on the lower level, left of the boulder. Up the easy initial lower section, the onto the wall heading L to the crack. Goods moves and a couple of classic jams along the way. Veer right at end to loweroffs. Retro ring bolted 2012.

FA: andrew powell & tim maroney

Set by andrew powell & tim maroney, 1993

15
19 * The Block That Was Mixed 15m, 2

Start left of block (initialled) and mantle moves to ledge and finger crack. Hand traverse left under roof then tricky moves to second roof and back onto arete into flared hand crack. Beware of horn at top. Belay from tree. 2 rusty carrots at present. Double ropes to lead best.

16
23 ** Sand Man Sport 25m

Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing bolts, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBW to same finish Originally down with cams now fully ring bolted.

FA: J Wilde & D Wilde, 1994

17
24 *** Succulent Young Men Sport 18m, 10

10mts L of Sand Man. "Let your fingers do the crying, a climb to cry for!" Start as for 'Texas', up the corner, then traverse hard right across the vertical wall for some 4mts before going up. Re bolted with rings 2011

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1994

Set by andrew powell, 1994

18
23 to 24 Go North by Northwest Sport Project 7

Take the direct line of 'Go North Young Thang' and avoid the left ledge above the slab by clipping the lower traverse bolt before heading up on the thin pockets and crimps. Looks like it will be a great line, but a bit contrived.

19
21 * Go North Young Thang Sport 20m, 8

As for 'Texas', up 3 bolts to ledge, then traverse right 2 metres, clip RB then very cruxy move, up through roof and step right to anchors. All RBs. If you are in trouble at the crux a bolt plate on an old carrot and a spare draw will let you aid

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

20
19 Texas Unknown 20m

Up corner on new RBs. Carrots and cams for the rest of the route straight up corner through chossy roof. Despite stars in the original guide this route is pretty average.

FA: phil stallard, Andrew Powell & Michelle Stibbard, 1993

21
16 I'll ask her Mixed 20m, 2

Start at shallow corner just left of Texas. Up to under roof then head left onto ledge and climb short corner to finish

22
18 I Wanna Be The Table Unknown 12m

Start 3m L of IAH. Some thin reachy slab work. Up past big cam to BR. Continue up slab to ledge and straight to top. Will be quite nice if retrobolted.

FA: Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker & Andrew Powell, 1993

23
17 Humping the Table Unknown 12m, 2

Nice slabby arete. Start 1m L of IWBTT, moving up through some balance moves into blank corner (2 BR's) to ledge, then blunt arete to top #2 Cam and #0.5 Cam.Start just to R of undercut section then up trending left past 2BR. Up corner then up arete to ledge. Needs retrobolt and anchors.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

24

The next three routes are located on the small upper cliff-line, on a platform up L of Texas. Access is easiest from the top. Locate the cave/overhang 50m sth of the car park. Walk around to the L (facing out from the cliff) until you find a small overhang/cave. The next three routes are to the L of the cave. If you are already on the bottom, climb "I'll Ask Her" which brings you up to the L of "Moe"

25
21 Moe Mixed 6m, 1

The furthest R of the three little climbs. One high bolt to clip then small friends in horizontal break at 4m. Top is loose and requires care. Belay off the concrete bollard.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

26
21 * Curly Unknown 8m

2m L of Moe is a left-facing weakness on steep coloured rock. One bolt and a #3 Cam in horizontal break at 6m.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

27
25 ** Larry Unknown 7m

Beautiful rock. Up an obvious overhanging corner. A bolt to start, then a fixed hanger and if you are still worried a #3 cam will soothe the nerves.

FA: paul, 1993

28

Routes commence 10m L of Humping the Table

29
20 * Oral Stretch Marks Unknown 15m

Starts at the L end of the large overhang. 10m L of HTT. Locate the bolt belay situated up on a ledge in the back of the overhang. Traverse L past 2 bolts then pull through the roof up into a crack on the wall which takes you to the topp. 6 bolts and 2 cams.

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

30
20 * Two Tribes Unknown 15m

Beautiful wall climbing up great rock. Starts up short corner 10m L of the large overhang. Up to break on wall next to ferny ledge, through overlap to horizontal #1.5 & #2 cams. Out an up to bolt via ramp the straight to finish on L side of block. Small cam near top.

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

31
21 ** Thin Heat Unknown 18m

Fine face work on ironstone blades. Start as for TT, up corner through small overlap then slightly L to top passing 2 BR's and a #2 cam.

FA: andrew powell & tim maroney, 1993

32

Starts as for TT and blast up corner to top. Anchors in back of cave.

FA: Phil Stallard, Micky & Carl, 1993

33
22 * Frogs Outa Water Unknown 10m

Short wall with three bolts. Starts off ledge 1m L of PMMHH. Straight up wall past some dubious rock to the cave. Nice mantle to finish. Belay in back of cave. Rap off

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1993

34
16 * River Rat Unknown 12m

Cams and wires. The diagonal seam/weakness 1.5m L of FOW. Trend L up cracks to finish at L end of cave. Belay in back of cave. Rap off rings

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1993

35
21 Oysterland Sport 30m 2, 12

Retro-ring bolted 2013. starts 5m L of the corner up the slab. The short open book corner with a u bolt at 3mts. Pitch 1 #21, 15mts. Up the short crack and onto slab. Belay at the tree below the arete. Pitch 2 #20. From tree head up 1m right of arete on flakes. You can belay from the cave or continue thru to the top. Anchors are on top and require long slings, easy to collect on walk out. 30m to ground.

FA: P Riviere & ross linsley, 1993

36

Starts in open corner above nicely placed sandstone paving,onto tricky slab, past ledges to large ledge and tree belay or continue up oysterland. Graded 17 in older guides and it may be with good arm span.

FA: Paul Riviere & Saxon Johns, 1995

37

Starts as for Oysterland 1st pitch. 2nd Pitch - clip 1st ring of Oysterland the move L to the arete. Onto face and straight up using cams to protect.

FA: Paul Riviere & Saxon Johns, 1995

38
21 The Big Lick Trad 30m 2

The corner/arete 3m L of Oysterland. Pitch1) Back at ground level a convenient bit of landscaping avoids getting your feet wet. (This has been overgrown the last few years unless someone has cleaned it up). Two bolts up a L facing corner leads the way to a large bridge of rock. Mount this and gently walk L. Easily up L side of the short orange wall (bolt), onto the big (wet) ledge. Double bolt belay. Pitch 2) (aid if wet) onto white block (good cam placements just above), and up into corner until you are forced R onto and around the arete. Chain belay in alcove. 6 bolts and a rack of friends.

FA: paul riviere, darren grey & matthew arnott, 1994

39
22 Under My Tongue Unknown 10m

Variant 2nd pitch for TBL. From Double bolt belay, move R under roof with bomber friends, then up face past a U bolt. Cams protect the remainder of the climb. Chain belay as for TBL.

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1995

40
25 ** Pretzel Logic Sport 10m

4mts L of TBL. The first of two fine, short cracks which finish in the alcove below the cave. Don't be put off by the seepage on the lower section of this and the next route. They are definitely worth the effort and not easy ticks

FA: paul riviere & simon Atkins, 1994

41
25 ** Wet When Slippery Sport 10m

Another gem. The crack 3mts L of PL. 1 bolt and two fixed hangers. Lower off anchors in the alcove above.

FA: paul riviere, 1995

42

The next two climbs start from the cave/overhang atop the previous two climbs. Best accessed by doing first easy section of The Big Lick and then walk L under the large orange overhang

43

The next two climbs start from the cave/overhang atop the previous two climbs. Best accessed by doing first easy section of The Big Lick and then walk L under the large orange overhang

44
24 *** Monkey In The Soul Sport 15m

Through the overhang starting from the ledge above Pretzel Logic. Starts at the base of the overhanging nose of orange rock. Clip the first ring then through the overhang. The next two chain runners are attempts to remedy two problematic clips. After chains traverse R along the lip passing 3 more rings, a difficult mantel move and finish just below the manky roof at the rap station.

FA: paul riviere, 1994

45
27 *** Heart of Stone Sport 15m, 8

Starts 8mts L of Monkey in the Soul at the L end of the cave at a Double bolt belay. Move R across the overlaps up into the corner than further R across yellow hanging wall, out to the lip and up to rappel station. 1 fixed hanger and 6 rings. A good one in the wet.

FA: paul riviere, 1994

46

The next routes start 45 mts L of Thin Heat

47
21 *** Vulgar Direct Sport 32m, 13

This route is located in-between HIL and BJ. Stick clipping the first clip is recommended as the holds right bellow are often damp. Extend draws number 3 & 4; 7 & 8. Classic!

FA: M Law, 1993

48
19 Honey Im Late Trad 40m

Start 2m RIGHT of ringbolts (VD) at short crack and go left into cave to join VD for a few bolts before heading back right to belay on pedestal ( finger and hand size cams needed). Pitch 2 is a traverse way right past 2 RBs anddthen up RBs and thread to tree, and on to top for pitch 3. It is 30 m to ground

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

49
21 Honey Im Direct Trad 35m

Start as for HIL (faded initials near short crack into cave). After pedestal belay traverse 2m right (ie not as far as HIL) and then up hanging corner (crux). More gear needed then bolts to DRB anchor. Care required with block just before top. 27m to ground

FA: andrew powell, 1993

50
22 ** B Jam Unknown 40m, 13

Initialled BJ. Fully rebolted and do as one pitch. Starts 3mts L of HIL. Up the little slab to horizontal then up over small roof to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeehaa. Reach out blindly to clip fixed hanger, now swing on out and up trending R. To easy but airy ground to belay off tree in cave. Retrobolted 2012 Anchors are back behind block.

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

51
19 ** Wheelie Big Fish Unknown 35m 2

Desperate final traverse. Start 2mts L of BJ. Reachy boulder moves to start and up wall passing BR to tree belay on second ledge next to orange wall. Pitch 2) up corner behing tree to hairy traverse off R to finish.

FA: Phil Stallard, Mick & Micky, 1993

52
19 Whairy Fin Fish Unknown 9m

A gripping little variant finish to WBF. Start on first belay ledge of WBF, slip on up orange wall passing BR and cams. Clip BR on lip and mantle up, out and over like a tuna.

FA: andrew powell & Milton Sams, 1993

53
19 * No Boots and Panties Sport 35m

whole lotta air out there. Start as for WBF. Up this for 10mts passing bolt runner to first ledge and small tree. Now out onto R wall just inside arete (wires and cams) and up to final BR on airy bulge.

FA: Tim, Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney & Phil Stallard, 1993

54
20 *** Woodface Unknown 40m 2

Beautiful open face climbing. Equipped with U-bolts in 2011 by Paul Riv. Start 4mts L of WBF. Bumble up 4mts to start up the line of ring bolts. Now up flake then trend L. Just above this traverse R to blunt arete. Cruise up trending L to top. Fixed anchors. Pitch 2) Up rounded arete .

FA: Andrew Powell & Tim Maroney, 1993

55
20 * Woodface Direct Sport 40m

Start Woodface as above. Instead of trending L after the flake crooooze straight up the arete to join original route. Ross Linsley had inadvertently climbed this arete assuming it was Woodface natural line. Same anchors as for Woodface and Hang Ten

FA: Ross Linsley & Paul Riviere

56
25 *** Hang Ten Sport 35m 2, 16

The start is a grovel to the start of the steep wall. Hard moves after 3rd ring. Excellent rock ringbolted to a big ledge. pitch 2) follow the roof crack R on finger tips, then a final hard move to the tree where the anchors lie. Crux's are good fun!!

FA: paul, 1994

57
21 * Hang Five Sport 15m, 5

Grovel up to the starting ledge then climb Hag Ten for 3 bolts before traversing left onto ledge. Move along ledge to DBB. This leads to the start of Hang Five. Follow the rings to finish on the L end of the Hang Ten Ledge under the roof.

FFA: P Riviere & D Lofthouse, 2012

58
21 * Paul-Powell Unknown 15m

From the DBB on ledge head up and right to crack then back left into fused corner, then right to letterbox and finish on large ledge (abseil off). 70m rope needed to reach ground. Originally bolted by Andrew Powell but never finished climbed. Ring bolts added to make it a sport route in 2012.

Set by Andrew Powell

FA: Paul Riviere & Dave Lofthouse, 2012

59
22 Forget me knot Sport 35m 2

Pith 1) from ground ascend through gap in ferns then with trepidation through chossy rock to ledge as for Hang Five. Pitch 2- Up fused corner to left side of arete.

FA: P Riviere & D Lofthouse, 2012

60
21 Tum Fun Unknown 30m

possibly the same route as Hang Five & Paul Powell.

61
25 ** Son of a Gun Sport 20m, 12

rock at bottom looks like crap but the higher you go the better it gets. follow the rings up trending left then back right through a couple of good overhanging sections priviere 1994

FA: paul, 1994

62
24 ** Leathal Weapon Sport 20m

Start as for SOG but go right and do tricky mantle onto ledge , up and bouldery moves to last bolt. Anchors are to left (shared with SOAG. Difficult to clean route so get someone to second maybe.

FFA: paul, 1995

63
16 The Damp Wagon Unknown 12m

Starts 10mts L of SOAG. Up blunt arete with some nice moves and small cams to ledge. Now up the corner to exit off R at top (flakey finish).

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

64
17 * Pigmy Sex Low Down Unknown 10m

Short but very sweet. Start as for TDW but this one takes a line off L. Small cams and wires to cave. Swing up and around L end of cave to finish.

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

65
20 * Squeezin' Out Sparks Unknown 13m

Just an other very pleasant outing.. Start as for PSLD up beginning of corner for a couple of moves (wires and #1.5 cam) then slip out R onto face passing BR on your way to crack (# 2 & 3.5 cam), continue to pop out R (# 1 cam) for final moves.

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

66
17 Pig In a Wig Unknown 13m

A deceptive little line but good. Start as for SOS follow corner with adequate pro to finish on R side of line on block above curving crack

FA: Carl Power & Ivan Baker, 1993

67

Starts up slab 6mts L of PIAW on a terrace about 10mt up. Great line pushing through the red centre. Look out for small furry friends. Up the slab to ledge then up orange wall to more gear (cams and nuts) to small ledge to finish. Exit with care off R.

FFA: Phil Stallard, Philleep & Ivan Baker, 1993

68
25 ** Ringtail Sport 30m 2, 11

Starts off the same terrace as previous route. Goes up the lovely orange wall a few metres L of BSMBP. The crux is the headwall above. If you do not wish to run it out after the third bolt a #1 or #2 cam will add courage. Rap anchor. Rebolted in 2015. 12 rings. The original route was intended to follow the hex bolts but it was never done. The Rings take the line of least resistance.Can appear a little run so take a few mid size cams to sooth the nerves. A lower pitch has been added with four rings (easy # 16)

FFA: Paul Riviere, 1993

69
19 *** 666 The Beast Unknown 15m

The superb flake 5mts L of Ringtail. Start at base of corner below ringtail. It'll scare you but worth the adventure. Cams and nuts for protection. Finishes atop the precarious block at a belay/rap station.

Set by ross linsley

FA: Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere & Bruce Wells, 1993

70

A bit desperate. Starts as for 666 then move L at 3mts into the seam. Full set of cams and #4 rock. Belay station as for 666.

FA: Ross Linsley, Nigel Kennedy & Paul Riviere, 1994

71
19 Corrosion Castle Unknown 35m 2

Back to ground level. Steep, airy and scary. Pitch 1) 6mts up thin crack to gum tree belay. 2 bolts. Take your own hangers. Pitch 2) 25mts. Crux. Up wall behind tree, trending R and up overhung arete and wall above. 9 Bolt runners

FFA: Mikl Law & Paul Riviere, 1993

72
22 Frontline Trad 10m

3m L of CC. The short wall with the undercut start. One BR, U-bolt and a #1.5 cam. Belay off tree.

FFA: Paul Riviere & Ross Linsley, 1994

73
18 Cornered Trad 10m

The short corner capped by a roof 2m L of Frontline. One BR plus a U-bolt and a #2.5 cam. Awkward belay from the tree.

FFA: Paul Riviere & Ross Linsley, 1994

74
24 Fondly Yours Boulder 8m

The blunt arete boulder problem just L of Cornered. The crux is the first 3mts. Solo

FFA: Paul Riviere (solo), 1998

75
25 * Black Diamond Sport 10m

desperate. The short black wall L of cornered with the bucketed centre. 3 ring bolts and rap anchors. 3rd clip difficult.

FA: Paul Riviere, 1994

76
21 Biceps Femoris Sport 8m

Starts 2 mts L of BD. The first of two climbs with 3 ring bolts, that share a common finish up the smooth slab to a Double Bolt belay.

FA: Paul Riviere, 1994

77
21 Biceps Brachii Sport 8m

1.5 mts L of BF. The little corner then the same as for BF.

FA: paul, 1993

78
14 O Unknown 25m

This and the following climbs start 10mts off the ground on a large terrace at the base of a vertical wall of excellent rock. O starts on a ledge below R end of the Sports wall Scramble up gully and out R onto ledge below steep wall. Pitch 1) 19mts. Straight up wall to below roof, escape L, up and around R to belay on big ledge. Pitch 2) 6mts up small corner to top.

FFA: Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker & Kathy Merz, 1993

79
18 Trotsky's Nipples Unknown 12m

Start as for Triangle (below) then up arete. Cams protect near top.

FFA: Phil Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1993

80
11 Triangle Unknown 10m

Start at the far R end of sport wall at the corner with black right hand wall. Up balck wall then left into corner at top.

FA: Phil Stallard & Ivan Baker, 1993

81
22 * Fellin Kinda Sporty Unknown 15m

Not sure if this route exists????

82
18 * Mega Luv Jugs Unknown 15m

Up the juggy wall 2mts L of Triangle corner.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

83
20 * Slippery Air Unknown 10m

2mts L of MLJ. 2 bolts and cams.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

84
17 Marxist Breakfast Unknown 10m

Starts 2mts L of SA. 2 bolts and cams

FA: Phil Stallard, 1993

85
21 ** One Sick Puppy Sport 12m

Traverses R through the roof Lof MXB. 4 bolts, rap anchor.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

86
24 Read My Lips Sport 10m

Starts 2mts L of OSP at the unusual extrusion in the back of the cave. Up R to ring than around roof to two more rings, finishing at a small broken angophora tree. Rap anchor as for OSP.

FA: paul, 1994

87
25 ** Shining Path Sport 12m

The first orange streak on the wall left of the cave. Ring bolted all the way to the top. Rap anchors.

FA: paul, 1995

88
25 *** Golden Shower Sport 12m

The L of of two obvious vertical orange streaks up superb rock. Hard moves down low then eases after 2nd ring. 1 bolt runner and the rest ring-bolted. Lower offs. Retro ring bolted 2013

FA: paul riviere, 1993

89
21 * Stairway to Heaven Sport 12m

A few metres L of Golden Shower is a diagonal ramp. Follow this trending R and then traverse further R to a short corner. Up the rings to rap anchor. Retro ring bolted 2014.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

90
24 *** Rivers Edge Sport 12m

5mts L of STH. Problematic start. Thin moves past ironstone edges on a steep face. Follow the straight line of rings. Lower offs. 6 Rings. Paul has rebolted this with rings feb 2015

FA: paul riviere, 1993

91
22 ** Finger Candy Unknown 15m

This route commences on the far left end of the sports wall just beyond the cave and detatched monolith. Climb the wall to a bolt runner just left of the cave, bolt, then tricky move past crux. Mixed gear above and tree to belay. At the moment somewhat overgrown by a tree. Needs some pruning to open up this wall again.

FFA: Andrew Powell & Paul Riviere, 1994

92
13 Short Black Unknown 15m

FA: Ivan Baker & Kathy, 1993

93

with a bit of ferreting 40m L of the sports wall a descent gully can be found - ten pin gully - To locate the following climbs walk north along the base of the clifff

94
13 Square Unknown 15m

As the name implies, except maybe sharper. The obvious wide crack splitting the wall before Crack'n Up Wall. Straight up crack and veer L and up wall to top.

FA: phil stallard, ivan baker & kathy, 1993

95
19 Huge Carpet Sale Unknown 15m

A plus for the Box, steep slab work. Start 3m L of Square over little bulge and up fine edged section passing 2 BR's, trend slightly R through horizontals, cams to small vertical crack and on to top. Tree belay.

FFA: Phil Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1994

96
19 * Struggle Rug Unknown 13m

Steeper sharper neighbour. Step on 2mts L of HCS, up edges passing 2 BR's and on, keep to the R of jutting block on the way to the top. Cams useful. Belay as for HCS.

FFA: Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard & paul

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1994

97
19 Not a Pretty Face Unknown 10m

The arete at the end of the buttress, just before THC. 2 bolts and a small cam on the way up. A few more smaller cams for the belay

FA: paul riviere & andrew powell, 1994

98

Starts 2m L of the chimney. Sequency moves on a vertical wall. Up to a flake at 5m then slap up to a good ledge. Continue up past easier ground to the cave. Bolt belay needs brackets. Four fixed hangers and a # 1.5 cam.

FFA: paul, 1993

99

Finishes off what THC started. From the big scoop at the 4th hanger, climb leftwards past 2 more fixed hangers up to double U bolt belay.

FFA: paul, 1994

100
22 *** Crack 'n' Up Unknown 30m

5m L of THC is an attractive vertical crack. Up this and traverse L at top of crack onto a ledge. Continue up a short crack system before back R onto the face passing 2 bolts.Tree belay. 3 bolts, cams and wires.

FFA: paul & john wilde, 1993

101
19 * Teddy Unknown 25m

The crack behind two blackboy bushes 7m L of Crack'n Up. Climb the crack up to bolt runner and move R to climb another short crack. Continue straight up passing a bolt to a large ledge. Climb the corner crack and move R onto the face with a bolt to protect. Tree belay. 3 bolts (need brackets), cams, wires.

FA: paul & ross linsley, 1993

102
19 * I'd Rather Be Fishing Unknown 30m

The corner 5m L of Teddy. Up R facing corner past 2 bolts and a #3 cam to an alcove. Pull through centre of roof onto another ledge next to small but solid angophora (sling). Straight up wall past another 3 bolt runners and cams.

FFA: paul, ross linsley & bruce wells, 1993

103
17 Fish Head Soup Unknown 25m

The crack 3m L of IRBF. Up crack to alcove at 4m. Continue straight up past 3 bolt runners (need brackets) onto a big ledge and another bolt. Move up into short corner then slightly R to finish in small cave. Tree belay.

FFA: paul & jeff conley, 1994

104

Hard moves up a vertical face. A couple of bolts and fixed hangers.

FFA: Mikl Law, 1994

105
22 * Absolutely Fab Trad 25m

Also known as "Absolutely fab". Tackles the thin wall L of FHS. Hard to get off ground followed by some dicey hold above horizontal break. Continue straight up past easier country using mixed gear and belay from tree.

FA: ross linsley & paul, 1994

106
19 * Hooked On Rock Trad 20m

Up the shallow corner to a bolt, then up the wall/slab passing 2 fixed runners. Chain belay.

FA: paul & ross linsley, 1993

107
21 ** Strung Up Trad 20m

The vertical crack 4m L of HOR. Up the crack for 10m, then move up R to a ledge and pad it up past a bolt. Rack of cams and nuts. Shares chain belay with HOR.

FFA: paul & ross linsley, 1993

108

The last climb on Crack'n up Wall. 6 U-bolts plus a few medium cams will bring you safely to a rap anchor.

FA: paul & ross linsley, 1995

109
20 * Fffffit Trad 21m

The arete. Mixed gear with 2 bolts at the top.

FFA: phil stallard & andrew powell, 1993

110
21 * Mr Whip Me Trad 23m

Not all things get hard, but some do!. Start as for Phvvvit at the base of the corner, throw a large nut into the crack on the wall and away you go. Blast up the middle of the wall passing #3 cam to a bolt runner. than to a crack and #4 cam. Hang out to the R, grab the arete and up this to small ledge passing 2 bolt runners to the top.

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

111
17 ** Phvvvit Trad 23m

Bill and Ben had to do a lot of bucket and spade work to unearth this class line. Start under corner up off the end of the main wall. Straight up this corner to small roof then traverse out R with air and care of hollow sounding flake. Up to small stance. Now up and out L to top through some loose country.

FFA: phil stallard & andrew powell, 1993

112
20 *** La La Land Trad 23m

Just bloody great. Start 5m L of Phvvvit and slink up the black wall till you hit the orange. Then step R a metre or so and up to small roof (cams and wires thru this section) Grab a magic undercling, clip the fixed hanger and head up final wall passing a #4 cam, bolt runner and #2 cam to the top.

FA: andrew powell, phil stallard & paul, 1993

113
22 * Up the End Trad 10m

Hidden away and almost missed, its 25m up and over the rise L of LLL. Crimp your way up compact wall on user friendly holds (not), passing 2 bolt runners to horizontal break (#3 cam). Now up to hold and over bulge, bolt runner on high crimps.

FFA: andrew powell, paul riviere & ross linsley, 1994

114

The Wall of Thighs is located on an upper tier of the cliff roughly north east of Ten Pin Gully. Find this area by walking north along the fenceline (atop the cliff. Approx 300mts north of emergency car parking bay) until you come to a rocky crown. Walk around the front of this and you will come to a 12-15 m high wall with ring bolts all the over the place. There are two cracks that split this nice little area.

115

The Wall of Thighs is located on an upper tier of the cliff roughly north east of Ten Pin Gully. Find this area by walking north along the fenceline (atop the cliff. Approx 300mts north of emergency car parking bay) until you come to a rocky crown. Walk around the front of this and you will come to a 12-15 m high wall with ring bolts all the over the place. There are two cracks that split this nice little area.

116
22 Funk Soul Mother Unknown 15m, 7

At right end of wall, veering left after second bolt and joining shared anchors of SKB

FA: V Wills & D Gray, 2012

117
22 ** Sun King Baby Sport 15m, 7

Start at initialled SKB. Veer right and then back left after second bolt. Recently rebolted, all rings with anchors

FA: andrew powell & paul, 1995

118
24 ** Sister Moon Sport 15m

The line of U-bolts just left of the crack and up the orange streak between SKB & PG. Six quick draws and anchors on top. Avoid using the crack on the L

FA: paul, 1995

119
18 Piggy Grunter Trad 12m

Chalk up the trotters and oink. Start up the crack L of Sister Moon.hex's or largish cams required.

FA: paul, Ivan Baker & Andrew Powell, 1994

120
24 ** Heaven and Hell Unknown 15m

2m L of Piggy Grunter. Up the middle of the wall past some poor rock at half height. Pad up a slab to finish at rap anchor. 7 U-bolts.

FA: paul, 1995

121
25 *** The Seventh Wave Sport 15m

The route a couple of metres L of H&H. Up past 5 U-bolts. Rap anchors.

FA: paul, 1995

122

Corner/crack 3m L of TSW.

FA: Phil Stallard & Ivan Baker, 1994

123
25 *** The Link Experience Sport 15m

Start 5m L of BHB. Up wall and overhanging crack to finish. 7 U-bolts.

FA: paul, 1995

124
20 Burning Sensation Trad 11m

You should always leave a little something for the end. Kick off as for TLE., pull up over block and move L to crack. #1.5 cam and then #3.5 cam. Slip around the L again to a BR, straight up from this passing a #1 cam & BR to the top on R side of the tree on ledge.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1994

125
19 Hey, Wheres the Cream? Unknown 11m

Up BS till you hit the first BR, now slip out to the L across a little slab, BR, and up corner. # 0.5 cam.

FA: Andrew Powell, 1994

126
17 Short Arrs Trad 6m

Dam shame it is not a bit longer. Start 10m L of BS up corner.

FA: Andrew Powell, 1994

127

Walk approx 150 L along the ledge system running from the L end of the Wall of Thighs. A 10m overhanging sport area with potential for some hard short routes.

128
27 * Scarface Sport 10m

traverse in from the R to the steep weekness and up passing a huge incut. Rap anchor

FA: paul, 1997

129
23 Indian Giver Sport 8m, 3

The ramp/arete rising up to the R. You can keep strictly to the ramp (#25) or climb to the left (#23). 3 U-bolts. Shold have a rap anchor but someone forgot to drill the holes.

FA: paul riviere, 1997

130
21 * Projectile Fear Unknown 6m

fall up the rings to the R of the bulging prow. Lower off final ring at roof.

FA: paul & andrew powell, 1995

131
16 Full Body Fluff Unknown 12m
132
21 ** D9 Lust Unknown 20m
133
19 *** Hot Black Light Unknown 22m

FFA: andrew powell & paul

134
20 * Horny Bugger Unknown 22m
135
21 ** Cool Street Unknown 20m

This climb is located at an area called the Basement. It is on tier below Wall of Horrors. below the L end of Wall of Horrors an angophora tree with its root curling over the cliff edge. Rap in here. Full rack of cams plus two U-bolts.

FFA: paul & andrew powell, 1995

136
19 Uncle Clouse Unknown 17m
137
15 Bondi Unknown 17m
138
139
20 * Holding down Two Lives Unknown 23m
140
15 Nobody Home Unknown 11m
141
15 Timbre Unknown 11m
142
20 * Gate Keeper Unknown 10m
143
22 * Thin Skinned Unknown 10m
144
17 Glass Snout Unknown 10m
145
22 ** Rock 'n' Robyn Unknown 20m

This is this the southern-most of the climbs located at an area known as the Long White Roof. It is approx 100mts L of the Basement or approx 300mts L of Crack'n Up Wall. Difficult (not impossible) to locate without local input. Rock'n Robyn is the short overhanging wall before you come to the beginning of the long white roof. Up the easy wall passing 2 U-bolts, then and awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Up the orange stain, #1 & 2 cams in the middle then two rings to the top. Belay from the tree

FFA: paul, 1995

FFA: paul, 1995

146
25 ** Dreamtime Sport 15m, 8

5m L of R'n Robyn. Starts off the large block on the R end of the Big White Roof. Move up to roof flake and out R along flake heading for the overhanging arete.

FFA: paul, 1996

FFA: paul, 1996

147
24 Pass the Ladder Unknown 24m
148
24 ** Three's a Crowd Unknown 50m
149
25 *** Power and Glory Unknown 35m
150
23 The Sandman Unknown

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.