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Description

Once "a crag of its time (90s)it is full of rusty carrots, mixed gear, choss and no lower offs" - until recently, (2010 onwards) when a big retro-bolting effort commenced. Spread out over a long broken cliff there are spectacular views over the Hawkesbury that almost make you forget the hum of the freeway. There are some good climbs hidden away. Online guides for this area are available through Sydney surf and sandstone (Sydney Rockies). The following descriptions are to update that information, as the area is slowly "modernised" by local climbers.

Useful Info: From the parking area walk towards the river stepping over a barbed wire fence (15 seconds). For the downriver end turn left and walk for 2 minutes with the fence to your left. The path is very narrow with a steep drop off in sections. The easiest way to the base is to continue winding your way southwards until you come to the reo-steel steps taking you down a slot. Now walk back northwards about 40 metres to where the climbs start. Absolute Honey is the first route. This is the southernmost climb on the cliff. Routes are described R to L.

© (vlw)

Approach

Heading north on the F3 you cross Jolls bridge and a few hundred metres beyond this there is an emergency bay where you can reverse safely between two guard rails into a grassy area where there is room for 5 cars. Alternatively park on the old Pacific 'Highway' as described in the SSS guide and walk under the bridge. Follow the guard rail untill the stone cutting and this is the southern end of the crag.

© (vlw)

Where to stay

No need to book into a motel or camp. Jolls is only a 40min drive north of Sydney

© (vlw)

Ethic

There are a couple of mixed routes but the majority have been retrobolted to bring the crag into the 21st century. If it is still mixed gear, leave it like that!

© (vlw)

History

Initially discovered in 1990 by Wayne Anderson, he let the secret out to Paul Riviere. At the same time Andrew Powell and Phil Stallard (Wondabyne climbers Assoc) were scoping out the place. 10 years of development ensued through the 90's with many contributors putting up lines including Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey, John Wilde et al. The crag was largely forgotten in the first few years of the 21st cent, but has become once again since many routes have been retro-bolted with rings making it a good moderate sports crag.

© (vlw)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 * Absolute honey Sport 13m, 4

This is the far southern end of the crag. Initialled AH. Up left of cave and flake past 4 RBs to new lower offs. Rebolted by Vanessa Wills 2010

FA: andrew powell & linda leman, 1993

2
22 * Rapunzel Let Down Your hair Unknown 10m, 4

Direct to first bolt shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared anchors with 'Sniffing Dogs'

FA: ross linsley & paul riviere, 1993

3
20 * Sniffing Dogs Sport 15m

Starts at right side of large cave pass 5 RBs, veering right at end to shared anchors with Rapunzel

FA: ross linsley, andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

4
23 * Wilde Thing Unknown 15m

Mixed gear with old hexag you thruonal bolts and a couple of cams #0.5 - 1 to get you to the top.

FA: John Wilde, 1993

5
16 King Kong Trad 15m

Pump up those beginners. Starts 2mts L of Wilde Thing. Reach your way up through the blocks round top and up passing tree to top.

FA: Nat Nichols & Sussie Early, 1993

6
21 * Fully Loaded Man Trad 20m

Start 2m right of HGSA at small crack. Up past 3 BRs to RB, step slightly left then past 2nd RB to double bolt belay (weasel exit on right side of RB about 19)

FA: Dale Tweedie & Daniel Webster, 2009

7

Mixed gear - hex bolts and a couple of cams. Has not been retro-bolted. Yet another gem that does not let up till you haul through the final bulge. Start 3m L of King Kong. Boulder up past friend to bolt runner, grunt over bulge up to orange wall. Finger your way through this to overhang and friend #2 placement. Thin moves and a goose step (bolt) surmount the orange face before a juggy overhanging finish (FH). Two bolts on block at top for anchor. Needs bolt plates and cams.

FA: Phill Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1993

8
17 Natie Head Sport 8m

At slightly higher level at right side of bowl. A cam and 2 carrots and a large angophora tree to DRBB

FA: nat nichols & sussie Early, 1993

9
19 * Bad Luck Silverback Mixed 12m, 1

Initialled BLSB. Up smooth orange rock past carrot to traverse right then up flake. Mostly trad. Traverse left at top to tree. Best led with double ropes or long slings. Although graded 19 it can seem quite difficult if this is your limit

FA: andrew powell & Tim Maroney, 1993

10
25 ** Channel Bill Cuckoo Sport 12m, 5

Start at white square 2m L of BLSB. CLip first RB from ledge then up, or return to ground for more value. Hard moves from pocket to flake then push on to ledge, anchors on wall above. Retro-ring bolted 2011.

FA: P Riviere, 1993

11

The trad corner, often dirty, now has lower offs

12
24 ** French and Blonde Sport 15m

Starts 1 L of the corner. Has been fully rebolted, take care getting to second bolt. Shares anchors with BBB to left.

FA: ross linsley & paul riviere, 1993

13
23 * Big Black Box Sport 15m, 5

Just L of F&B is a stunning black wall. Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right

FA: andrew powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

14
21 * The Climb that was Sport 18m

The route 4m L of BBB. Great positions up the inviting crack. Starts from down on the lower level, left of the boulder. Up the easy initial lower section, the onto the wall heading L to the crack. Goods moves and a couple of classic jams along the way. Veer right at end to loweroffs. Retro ring bolted 2012.

FA: andrew powell & tim maroney

Set by andrew powell & tim maroney, 1993

15
19 * The Block That Was Mixed 15m, 2

Start left of block (initialled) and mantle moves to ledge and finger crack. Hand traverse left under roof then tricky moves to second roof and back onto arete into flared hand crack. Beware of horn at top. Belay from tree. 2 rusty carrots at present. Double ropes to lead best.

16
23 ** Sand Man Sport 25m

Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing bolts, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBW to same finish Originally down with cams now fully ring bolted.

FA: J Wilde & D Wilde, 1994

17
24 *** Succulent Young Men Sport 18m, 10

10mts L of Sand Man. "Let your fingers do the crying, a climb to cry for!" Start as for 'Texas', up the corner, then traverse hard right across the vertical wall for some 4mts before going up. Re bolted with rings 2011

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1994

Set by andrew powell, 1994

18
23 to 24 Go North by Northwest Sport Project 7

Take the direct line of 'Go North Young Thang' and avoid the left ledge above the slab by clipping the lower traverse bolt before heading up on the thin pockets and crimps. Looks like it will be a great line, but a bit contrived.

19
21 * Go North Young Thang Sport 20m, 8

As for 'Texas', up 3 bolts to ledge, then traverse right 2 metres, clip RB then very cruxy move, up through roof and step right to anchors. All RBs. If you are in trouble at the crux a bolt plate on an old carrot and a spare draw will let you aid

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

20
19 Texas Unknown 20m

Up corner on new RBs. Carrots and cams for the rest of the route straight up corner through chossy roof. Despite stars in the original guide this route is pretty average.

FA: phil stallard, Andrew Powell & Michelle Stibbard, 1993

21
16 I'll ask her Mixed 20m, 2

Start at shallow corner just left of Texas. Up to under roof then head left onto ledge and climb short corner to finish

22
18 I Wanna Be The Table Unknown 12m

Start 3m L of IAH. Some thin reachy slab work. Up past big cam to BR. Continue up slab to ledge and straight to top. Will be quite nice if retrobolted.

FA: Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker & Andrew Powell, 1993

23
17 Humping the Table Unknown 12m, 2

Nice slabby arete. Start 1m L of IWBTT, moving up through some balance moves into blank corner (2 BR's) to ledge, then blunt arete to top #2 Cam and #0.5 Cam.Start just to R of undercut section then up trending left past 2BR. Up corner then up arete to ledge. Needs retrobolt and anchors.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

24

The next three routes are located on the small upper cliff-line, on a big platform up L of Texas. Access is easiest from the top. Locate the cave/overhang 50m sth of the car park. Walk around to the L (facing out from the cliff) until you find a small overhang/cave. The next three routes are to the L of the cave. If you are already on the bottom, climb "I'll Ask Her" which brings you up to the L of "Moe"

25
21 Moe Mixed 6m, 1

The furthest R of the three little climbs. One high bolt to clip then small friends in horizontal break at 4m. Top is loose and requires care. Belay off the concrete bollard.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

26
21 * Curly Unknown 8m

2m L of Moe is a left-facing weakness on steep coloured rock. One bolt and a #3 Cam in horizontal break at 6m.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

27
25 ** Larry Unknown 7m

Beautiful rock. Up an obvious overhanging corner. A bolt to start, then a fixed hanger and if you are still worried a #3 cam will soothe the nerves.

FA: paul, 1993

28

Routes commence 10m L of Humping the Table

29
20 * Oral Stretch Marks Unknown 15m

Starts at the L end of the large overhang. 10m L of HTT. Locate the bolt belay situated up on a ledge in the back of the overhang. Traverse L past 2 bolts then pull through the roof up into a crack on the wall which takes you to the topp. 6 bolts and 2 cams.

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

30
20 * Two Tribes Unknown 15m

Beautiful wall climbing up great rock. Starts up short corner 10m L of the large overhang. Up to break on wall next to ferny ledge, through overlap to horizontal #1.5 & #2 cams. Out an up to bolt via ramp the straight to finish on L side of block. Small cam near top.

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

31
21 ** Thin Heat Unknown 18m

Fine face work on ironstone blades. Start as for TT, up corner through small overlap then slightly L to top passing 2 BR's and a #2 cam.

FA: andrew powell & tim maroney, 1993

32

Starts as for TT and blast up corner to top. Anchors in back of cave.

FA: Phil Stallard, Micky & Carl, 1993

33
22 * Frogs Outa Water Unknown 10m

Short wall with three bolts. Starts off ledge 1m L of PMMHH. Straight up wall past some dubious rock to the cave. Nice mantle to finish. Belay in back of cave. Rap off

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1993

34
16 * River Rat Unknown 12m

Cams and wires. The diagonal seam/weakness 1.5m L of FOW. Trend L up cracks to finish at L end of cave. Belay in back of cave. Rap off rings

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1993

35
21 Oysterland Sport 30m 2, 12

Retro-ring bolted 2013. starts 5m L of the corner up the slab. The short open book corner with a u bolt at 3mts. Pitch 1 #21, 15mts. Up the short crack and onto slab. Belay at the tree below the arete. Pitch 2 #20. From tree head up 1m right of arete on flakes. You can belay from the cave or continue thru to the top. Anchors are on top and require long slings, easy to collect on walk out. 30m to ground.

FA: P Riviere & ross linsley, 1993

36

Starts in open corner above nicely placed sandstone paving,onto tricky slab, past ledges to large ledge and tree belay or continue up oysterland. Graded 17 in older guides and it may be with good arm span.

FA: Paul Riviere & Saxon Johns, 1995

37

Starts as for Oysterland 1st pitch. 2nd Pitch - clip 1st ring of Oysterland the move L to the arete. Onto face and straight up using cams to protect.

FA: Paul Riviere & Saxon Johns, 1995

38
21 The Big Lick Trad 30m 2

The corner/arete 3m L of Oysterland. Pitch1) Back at ground level a convenient bit of landscaping avoids getting your feet wet. (This has been overgrown the last few years unless someone has cleaned it up). Two bolts up a L facing corner leads the way to a large bridge of rock. Mount this and gently walk L. Easily up L side of the short orange wall (bolt), onto the big (wet) ledge. Double bolt belay. Pitch 2) (aid if wet) onto white block (good cam placements just above), and up into corner until you are forced R onto and around the arete. Chain belay in alcove. 6 bolts and a rack of friends.

FA: paul riviere, darren grey & matthew arnott, 1994

39
22 Under My Tongue Unknown 10m

Variant 2nd pitch for TBL. From Double bolt belay, move R under roof with bomber friends, then up face past a U bolt. Cams protect the remainder of the climb. Chain belay as for TBL.

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1995

40
25 ** Pretzel Logic Sport 10m

4mts L of TBL. The first of two fine, short cracks which finish in the alcove below the cave. Don't be put off by the seepage on the lower section of this and the next route. They are definitely worth the effort and not easy ticks

FA: paul riviere & simon Atkins, 1994

41
25 ** Wet When Slippery Sport 10m

Another gem. The crack 3mts L of PL. 1 bolt and two fixed hangers. Lower off anchors in the alcove above.

FA: paul riviere, 1995

42

The next two climbs start from the cave/overhang atop the previous two climbs. Best accessed by doing first easy section of The Big Lick and then walk L under the large orange overhang

43

The next two climbs start from the cave/overhang atop the previous two climbs. Best accessed by doing first easy section of The Big Lick and then walk L under the large orange overhang

44
24 *** Monkey In The Soul Sport 15m

Through the overhang starting from the ledge above Pretzel Logic. Starts at the base of the overhanging nose of orange rock. Clip the first ring then through the overhang. The next two chain runners are attempts to remedy two problematic clips. After chains traverse R along the lip passing 3 more rings, a difficult mantel move and finish just below the manky roof at the rap station.

FA: paul riviere, 1994

45
27 *** Heart of Stone Sport 15m, 8

Starts 8mts L of Monkey in the Soul at the L end of the cave at a Double bolt belay. Move R across the overlaps up into the corner than further R across yellow hanging wall, out to the lip and up to rappel station. 1 fixed hanger and 6 rings. A good one in the wet.

FA: paul riviere, 1994

46

The next routes start 45 mts L of Thin Heat

47
21 ** Vulgar Direct Sport 32m, 12

Despite what the old guides say this is the LEFT route straight up the ring bolts through several roofs. Fully rebolted with DRB loweroffs

FA: M Law, 1993

48
19 Honey Im Late Trad 40m

Start 2m RIGHT of ringbolts (VD) at short crack and go left into cave to join VD for a few bolts before heading back right to belay on pedestal ( finger and hand size cams needed). Pitch 2 is a traverse way right past 2 RBs anddthen up RBs and thread to tree, and on to top for pitch 3. It is 30 m to ground

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

49
21 Honey Im Direct Trad 35m

Start as for HIL (faded initials near short crack into cave). After pedestal belay traverse 2m right (ie not as far as HIL) and then up hanging corner (crux). More gear needed then bolts to DRB anchor. Care required with block just before top. 27m to ground

FA: andrew powell, 1993

50
22 ** B Jam Unknown 40m, 13

Initialled BJ. Fully rebolted and do as one pitch. Starts 3mts L of HIL. Up the little slab to horizontal then up over small roof to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeehaa. Reach out blindly to clip fixed hanger, now swing on out and up trending R. To easy but airy ground to belay off tree in cave. Retrobolted 2012 Anchors are back behind block.

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

51
19 ** Wheelie Big Fish Unknown 30m
52
19 Whairy Fin Fish Unknown 9m
53
19 * No Boots and Panties Sport 35m

start up bjam for all sport variant. same grade

54
20 *** Woodface Unknown 40m
55
20 * Woodface Direct Sport 40m

All RBs except for last bolt which is old and badly placed and for some reason left behind. Gain ledge through vegetated mank to start climb. Straight up arete then flake then arete on RBs to cave. Chain at back or continue past final 3 bolts (pitch 2) to top out. At present a rain soaked case of porn videos has been dumped at the start of the route.

56
25 *** Hang Ten Sport 35m 2, 16

steep sandstone wall ringbolted to a big ledge and 2nd pitch it thru a roof that traverses right. Crux's are good fun!!

57
21 Hang Five Sport 15m, 5

Grovel up to the starting ledge then climb Hag Ten for 3 bolts before traversing left onto ledge. Move along ledge to DBB. This leads to the start of Paul-Powell

FFA: P Riviere

58
21 * Paul-Powell Unknown 15m

From the DBB on ledge head up and right to crack then back left into fused corner, then right to letterbox and finish on large ledge (abseil off). 70m rope needed to reach ground. Pauls forgotten what he called it, some old carrots on it but was never climbed

FA: P Rfiviere, 2012

59
22 The Landscaper Sport 34m 2

P1-from ground ascend through gap in ferns then with trepidation through chossy rock to ledge as for Hang Five. Pitch 2- Up fused corner to left side of arete. Awaiting Pauls name for route.

FA: P Riviere

60
21 Tum Fun Unknown 30m
61
26 * Son of a Gun Sport 20m, 12

rock at bottom looks like crap but the higher you go the better it gets. follow the rings up trending left then back right through a couple of good overhanging sections priviere 1994

62
24 ** Leathal Weapon Sport 20m

Start as for SOG but go right and do tricky mantle onto ledge , up and bouldery moves to last bolt. Anchors are to left and difficult to clean route-get someone to second maybe.

63
16 The Damp Wagon Unknown 12m
64
17 * Pigmy Sex Low Down Unknown 10m
65
20 * Squeezin' Out Sparks Unknown 13m
66
17 Pig In a Wig Unknown 13m
68
24 ** Ringtail Unknown 18m
69
19 *** 666 The Beast Unknown 15m
71
19 Corrosion Castle Unknown 30m
72
25 * Black Diamond Unknown 10m
73
21 Biceps Femoris Unknown 6m
74
21 Biceps Brachii Unknown 8m
75
14 O Unknown 25m
76
18 Trotsky's Nipples Unknown 12m
77
11 Triangle Unknown 10m
78
22 * Fellin Kinda Sporty Unknown 15m
79
18 Mega Luv Jugs Unknown 15m
80
20 * Slippery Air Unknown 10m
81
17 Marxist Breakfast Unknown 10m
82
21 * One Sick Puppy Sport 12m
83
24 Read My Lips Unknown 10m
84
25 * Shining Path Sport 15m
85
25 *** Golden Shower Sport 15m

The L of of two obvious vertical orange streaks up superb rock. Hard moves down low then eases after 2nd ring. Retro ring bolted 2013. Lower offs.

FA: Jason Smith & paul riviere, 1993

86
21 * Stairway to Heaven Sport 20m

A few metres L of Golden Shower is a diagonal ramp. Follow this trending R and then traverse further R to a short corner. Up the rings to lower off anchor. Retro ring bolted 2014.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

87
24 ** Rivers Edge Sport 15m

5mts L of STH. Problematic start. Thin moves past ironstone flakes on a steep face. Follow the straight line of rings. Lower offs. 6 Rings. Retro ring bolted feb 2015

FA: paul riviere

88
22 ** Finger Candy Unknown 15m
89
21 Short Black Unknown 10m
90
13 Square Unknown 15m
91
19 Huge Carpet Sale Unknown 15m
92
19 * Struggle Rug Unknown 13m
93
19 Not a Pretty Face Unknown 10m
94
96
22 *** Crack 'n' Up Unknown 30m
97
19 * Teddy Unknown 30m
98
19 I'd Rather Be Fishing Unknown 30m
99
17 Fish Head Soup Unknown 25m
100
22 * Smells of Excess Unknown 25m
101
22 * Absolutely Fab Unknown 25m
102
19 * Hooked On a Rock Unknown 20m
103
21 ** Strung Up Unknown 20m
104
22 Chips and Chicken Salt Unknown 15m
105
20 * Fffffit Unknown 21m
106
21 * Mr Whip Me Unknown 23m
107
17 * Phvvvit Unknown 23m
108
20 *** La La Land Unknown 23m
109
22 * Up the End Unknown 10m
110
22 Funk Soul Mother Unknown 15m, 7

At right end of wall, veering left after second bolt and joining shared anchors of SKB

FA: V Wills & D Gray, 2012

111
22 ** Sun King Baby Sport 15m, 7

Start at initialled SKB. Veer right and then back left after second bolt. Recently rebolted, all rings with anchors

112
25 * Sister Moon Unknown 15m
113
18 Piggy Grunter Unknown 12m
114
22 Heaven and Hell Unknown 15m
115
25 The Seventh Wave Unknown 15m
116
17 Benny Hills Buttocks Unknown 15m
117
25 The Link Experience Unknown 15m
118
20 Burning Sensation Unknown 11m
119
19 Hey, Wheres the Cream? Unknown 11m
120
17 Short Arrs Unknown 6m
121
27 Scarface Unknown 10m
122
21 Projectile Fear Unknown 6m
123
16 Full Body Fluff Unknown 12m
124
21 ** D9 Lust Unknown 20m
125
19 *** Hot Black Light Unknown 22m
126
20 * Horny Bugger Unknown 22m
127
21 * Cool Street Unknown 20m
128
19 Uncle Clouse Unknown 17m
129
15 Bondi Unknown 17m
130
131
20 * Holding down Two Lives Unknown 23m
132
15 Nobody Home Unknown 11m
133
15 Timbre Unknown 11m
134
20 * Gate Keeper Unknown 10m
135
22 * Thin Skinned Unknown 10m
136
17 Glass Snout Unknown 10m
137
22 ** Rock 'n' Robyn Unknown 20m
138
26 ** Dreamtime Unknown 15m
139
24 Pass the Ladder Unknown 24m
140
24 ** Three's a Crowd Unknown 50m
141
25 *** Power and Glory Unknown 35m
142
23 The Sandman Unknown

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