Joll's Bridge Mostly climbing137 routes in crag
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A crag of its time (90s)it is full of rusty carrots, mixed gear, choss and no lower offs. Spread out over a long broken cliff there are spectacular views over the Hawkesbury that almost make you forget the hum of the freeway. There are some good climbs hidden away. Online guides for this area are available through Sydney surf and sandstone (Sydney Rockies). The following descriptions are to update that information, as the area is slowly "modernised" by local climbers.
Useful Info: From the parking area walk towards the river stepping over a barbed wire fence (15 seconds). For the downriver end turn left and walk for 2 minutes with the fence to your left. The path is very narrow with a steep drop off in sections. The easiest way to the base is to abseil 15m from the tree above 'Bad Luck Silverback', or from 2 ring bolts above 'Natie Head' or from 2 carrot bolts above High Goose Stepping action. This delivers you to one of the highest quality areas and the focus of rebolting at the moment. Otherwise keep walking for another 2 mins to the end of the wall and descend down the F3 runoff gutter.© (vlw)
Heading north on the F3 you cross Jolls bridge and a few hundred metres beyond this there is an emergency phone area where you can reverse safely between two rails into a grassy area where there is room for 5 cars. Alternatively park on the old Pacific 'Highway' as described in the SSS guide and walk under the bridge. Follow the guard rail untill the stone cutting and this is the southern end of the crag.© (vlw)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Initialled BLSB. Up smooth orange rock past carrot to traverse right then up flake. Mostly trad. Traverse left at top to tree. Best led with double ropes or long slings. Although graded 19 it can seem quite difficult if this is your limit
Start at white square 2m L of BLSB. CLip first RB from ledge then up, or return to ground for more value. Hard moves from pocket to flake then push on to ledge, anchors on wall above
FA: P Riviere, 2000
The trad corner, often dirty, now has lower offs
Has been fully rebolted, take care getting to second bolt. Shares anchors with BBB to left.
Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right
The retrobolted and straight up version of the block that was. Veer right at end to loweroffs
Start left of block (initialled) and mantle moves to ledge and finger crack. Hand traverse left under roof then tricky moves to second roof and back onto arete into flared hand crack. Beware of horn at top. Belay from tree. 2 rusty carrots at present. Double ropes to lead best.
Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing bolts, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBW to same finish.
FA: J Wilde, D Wilde